drummereef
Team RC
Hey guys, what's the best way to test the LED connections? I have a couple of multimeters but can't figure out how to do it. 
drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
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cromedogg33
Member
Hey guys, what's the best way to test the LED connections? I have a couple of multimeters but can't figure out how to do it.
Use a double A battery
drummereef
Team RC
One or two? I've seen people do this but I thought it was 2 AA's.
cromedogg33
Member
I've done it with both. Everytime I've ordered from rapidled, they sent a 2 bay tester.
http://www.rapidled.com/aa-battery-led-tester/
I'm almost positive one works as well, it just won't make them as bright but you'll be able to test the LED and or solder points/wiring.
http://www.rapidled.com/aa-battery-led-tester/
I'm almost positive one works as well, it just won't make them as bright but you'll be able to test the LED and or solder points/wiring.
drummereef
Team RC
Excellent. Lowe's has those, I need to go there anyway so I'll pick one up. Thanks!
drummereef
Team RC
Picked up a 2 bay tester and the individual LEDs seem to light fine. Want to test my wiring though... Is there any risk of reversing the polarity of the 2 bay tester to the LEDs? Like, put the + and - sides of the 2 bay tester on two - sides of two LEDs in the series?
Bill did this in a how-to video but it was with a multimeter.
Bill did this in a how-to video but it was with a multimeter.
drummereef
Team RC
Picked up a 2 bay tester and the individual LEDs seem to light fine. Want to test my wiring though... Is there any risk of reversing the polarity of the 2 bay tester to the LEDs? Like, put the + and - sides of the 2 bay tester on two - sides of two LEDs in the series?
Bill did this in a how-to video but it was with a multimeter.
Bill did this in a how-to video but it was with a multimeter.
JMLewis
Member
Hey drummer sorry to divert from your lighting for a sec. But I was trying to find the post/posts about you taking down your bio pellet reactor and couldn't find it.
Anyways what made you stop running them? I'm cycling my tank atm and I was thinking about running bio pellets soon as its done, but now that I see you took yours offline I'm wondering why and if I should possibly consider not using them. It'll be a dominately sps tank with shallow sand bed and refugium.
Anyways what made you stop running them? I'm cycling my tank atm and I was thinking about running bio pellets soon as its done, but now that I see you took yours offline I'm wondering why and if I should possibly consider not using them. It'll be a dominately sps tank with shallow sand bed and refugium.
drummereef
Team RC
OK, I think I got it worked out. They are wired in series - single string. I appreciate the help n8rad.
I recently took them off-line simply because my nutrients were so low I really didn't think they were doing anything. NO3 is undetectable and PO4 was reading 0.02. I also wanted to see how effective the new refugium is at keeping nutrients in check as well. I figure I will use the biopellets "as needed" if the overall nutrient levels start coming back up and/or if the refugium and water changes aren't keeping up.
Thanks and welcome dallasg. I appreciate the post all the way from South Africa! I'd love to visit some day.
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drummereef
Team RC
Sorry for the lack of updates lately... Been working like crazy to get the LED project to the point where I can post some pics of the progress. The bars are done and mostly wired. Have to finish the mounting brackets this weekend and I'll be able to hang the bars on the light rack. From there it's just a matter of mounting the drivers and finish the connections. I'll hopefully update with pics by the end of the weekend.
drummereef
Team RC
One more question for you guys...
Is it acceptable to use 20 gauge stranded wire for the longer +/- runs to and from my LED drivers? It will be roughly 12 feet of run from the furthest point.
Is it acceptable to use 20 gauge stranded wire for the longer +/- runs to and from my LED drivers? It will be roughly 12 feet of run from the furthest point.
psteeleb
Team RC
no expert here but I'm sure there is away to calculate the load and then size the wire. If nothing else test the set up with the long run, check to see if the wires get warm over an hour or so of full power. If they do you will need to change them. Also check the connections for heat, I found that my wires were fine but had a couple instances where the crimp type terminal connections had a tendency to get warm. Over time this can cause the plastic coverings to crack. I suspect in these cases larger wire and connections are needed.
fishcatdog66
Member
I'm going over your build again from page 1. How long did the floor take to dry and do you think it was worth it as opposed to just staining or painting the concrete? Also, what are the dimensions of the tank/sump room. I'm holding your build up as the standard of design and implementation. My basement sump room is going to be modeled based on your design.
drummereef
Team RC
Sounds good. I will monitor it once I get everything wired up.
I appreciate the kind words fishcatdog.
I painted my sump room floor with Benjamin Moore Porch and Floor paint. I did 2 coats from what I remember. It was dry to walk on (in socks) within 12 hours. But, if I remember right, you don't want to walk on it in shoes for at least 24 hours depending on environmental conditions etc... It has held up very good even considering some pretty significant spills/cleanup I've had in the past. The other thing I like about it is it's a water based system so if I need to touch it up with another coat it doesn't stink like alkyd paints.
The rough dimension of the sump room is 8' x 9' (width x length).
drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
OK guys, I finally had time to post some pics of the LED light bar progress. Still have a few things left to finish up the project but it's getting close. This review is how I built the bars. Here we go...
I used 1" black anodized black aluminum tubing for the 2 bars I'm building. After cutting the bars to the appropriate length I mapped out the placement of the 15 LEDs that will be mounted to the bars. I spaced the LEDs 4.25" apart, starting at the center of each bar and working out towards each end. Here you can see hole placement and how the BJB connector will be mounted to the bar.
I set up a jig to make drilling the holes a little easier. I used the recommended 3/32" bit which works perfectly with the #4-40 thread cutting screws used to install the BJB connectors.
One down, 59 more to go.
To help guide the drill bit, I used a punch to make a starting point for drilling.
Here you can see the placement of the holes either side of the center line, which indicates where the LED star will be mounted.
All holes drilled.
After all the holes were drilled, I used some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean up the bars in preparation for mounting the LEDs.
OK guys, I finally had time to post some pics of the LED light bar progress. Still have a few things left to finish up the project but it's getting close. This review is how I built the bars. Here we go...
I used 1" black anodized black aluminum tubing for the 2 bars I'm building. After cutting the bars to the appropriate length I mapped out the placement of the 15 LEDs that will be mounted to the bars. I spaced the LEDs 4.25" apart, starting at the center of each bar and working out towards each end. Here you can see hole placement and how the BJB connector will be mounted to the bar.
I set up a jig to make drilling the holes a little easier. I used the recommended 3/32" bit which works perfectly with the #4-40 thread cutting screws used to install the BJB connectors.
One down, 59 more to go.
To help guide the drill bit, I used a punch to make a starting point for drilling.
Here you can see the placement of the holes either side of the center line, which indicates where the LED star will be mounted.
All holes drilled.
After all the holes were drilled, I used some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean up the bars in preparation for mounting the LEDs.
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drummereef
Team RC
The next step was mounting the LEDs. Here are the parts I used for installing the LEDs using the BJB connector method.
Cree XT-E RB LEDs
BJB Connector
BJB Optic Holder
Carclo Ripple Wide Optic
#4-40 Thread Cutting Screws
I used Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound to help with heat transfer.
I applied a small amount of the compound to the back of the LED star.
I placed the LED star on the bar and oriented it appropriately to the +/- contacts on the BJB connector.
I used a little 3-IN-ONE oil to help the screws cut and thread easier into the aluminum bar.
A finished LED.
And the finished bar after all LEDs had been mounted.
Cree XT-E RB LEDs
BJB Connector
BJB Optic Holder
Carclo Ripple Wide Optic
#4-40 Thread Cutting Screws
I used Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound to help with heat transfer.
I applied a small amount of the compound to the back of the LED star.
I placed the LED star on the bar and oriented it appropriately to the +/- contacts on the BJB connector.
I used a little 3-IN-ONE oil to help the screws cut and thread easier into the aluminum bar.
A finished LED.
And the finished bar after all LEDs had been mounted.
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drummereef
Team RC
Next step was to wire up the LEDs. I used 20 gauge solid wire between each BJB connector. I purchased the wire from McMaster-Carr. They carry an incredible variety of wire for all kinds of projects.
I cut a short piece of wire and stripped 1/4" off each end.
The 20 gauge wire pushes fairly easy into the BJB connector but makes a solid connection. I then repeated until all the connectors had been wired up.
Next step was finishing the end caps. This required some modding. I used a 1" black end cap, 1/4"-20 brad-hole tee nut, and some 2-part epoxy.
I drilled an appropriate sized hole into the end cap to accept the 1/4"-20 tee nut.
Using a counter sink bit and a cone shaped sanding bit, I cleaned up the hole so the tee nut fit snugly.
Then, using some 2-part epoxy, I glued the tee nuts into the end caps. This will allow me to rotate the fixture once it's mounted to my light rack. (will show in future update)
I cut a short piece of wire and stripped 1/4" off each end.
The 20 gauge wire pushes fairly easy into the BJB connector but makes a solid connection. I then repeated until all the connectors had been wired up.
Next step was finishing the end caps. This required some modding. I used a 1" black end cap, 1/4"-20 brad-hole tee nut, and some 2-part epoxy.
I drilled an appropriate sized hole into the end cap to accept the 1/4"-20 tee nut.
Using a counter sink bit and a cone shaped sanding bit, I cleaned up the hole so the tee nut fit snugly.
Then, using some 2-part epoxy, I glued the tee nuts into the end caps. This will allow me to rotate the fixture once it's mounted to my light rack. (will show in future update)
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