drummereef's 180g in-wall build

So this is where I am today. The design is basically a variation on RocketEngineer's design. The viewable side of the tank is resting on the half wall I built. The sump side is pretty much his design. The bottom shelf will hold the sump. I'm still measuring for the sump size and plumbing so I'll design the shelf around that. The floor is sloping towards the HVAC and floor drain on the other side of the right wall. It's a pita to level. :rolleye1:


RocketEngineer's DIY Stand Template



newpics033.jpg~original

Sorry to jump in so late guys, but I was looking to do this exact type of in-wall stand at home and have been looking for a writeup forever... so .... THANKS !

Quick question -did you have to level the in-wall brace since you can't place anything under the legs to shim it ?

Also, I'm trying to find a way to trim out the front without putting a "raised" picture frame around the tank.. to make it sleeker. Any ideas?
 
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Sorry to jump in so late guys, but I was looking to do this exact type of in-wall stand at home and have been looking for a writeup forever... so .... THANKS !

Quick question -did you have to level the in-wall brace since you can't place anything under the legs to shim it ?

Also, I'm trying to find a way to trim out the front without putting a "raised" picture frame around the tank.. to make it sleeker. Any ideas?


Yes. I leveled everything, every step of the way. My floor was out enough I had to address it from every angle. ;)
 
Cool thanks.

Any close up pix of how you trimmed the front of the tank? I wanted the sleek look you ended up getting (ie- no picture frame).
 
Cool thanks.

Any close up pix of how you trimmed the front of the tank? I wanted the sleek look you ended up getting (ie- no picture frame).

At this point I haven't done anything other than what's in the pics in the thread. I actually plan on framing around the front of the tank, just haven't done it yet. I have seen some pics of tanks where they drywall right up to the glass but I liked the idea of casing it in so that's what I originally planned around.
 
Thought you might want to see how the finished light rack will look. Did a little sketchup of the plan. :)


Lighting2.jpg~original



Lighting-1.jpg~original
 
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question; how are you planning on securing the pendants to the light rack? Gravity?

:lol: It's just magic! No, there's a 5/8" flange on the tubing. It doesn't show that in the pic cause I got lazy with my drawing. I allowed a 1/4" around the reflectors which is shown in the pics. That way the flange won't overlap the glass underneath. ;)
 
:lol: It's just magic! No, there's a 5/8" flange on the tubing. It doesn't show that in the pic cause I got lazy with my drawing. I allowed a 1/4" around the reflectors which is shown in the pics. That way the flange won't overlap the glass underneath. ;)

understood about the flange (I drew up something similar earlier this week), but I didnt know if you'd considered how to restrain the pendants. My thought was, do you make the entire rack so that it can taken down with the pendants in place, or would you have to take everything off before removing it (if desired)?

Another question, though maybe you covered it. Does your suspension system allow for movement up and down? I've bought a bike mount that pulls up and holds ~50lbs, I think it will suffice and allow me to yank the light rack up to get into the tank.
 
was it gel in that packet? i remember when i was replacing the taillights in my old car there was a gel that came with them that you're supposed to apply to the socket/bulb base that will keep water out.
 
understood about the flange (I drew up something similar earlier this week), but I didnt know if you'd considered how to restrain the pendants. My thought was, do you make the entire rack so that it can taken down with the pendants in place, or would you have to take everything off before removing it (if desired)?

Another question, though maybe you covered it. Does your suspension system allow for movement up and down? I've bought a bike mount that pulls up and holds ~50lbs, I think it will suffice and allow me to yank the light rack up to get into the tank.


Ah, I get your questions now. Sorry. :) The pendants will just sit on the rack, no restraints necessary from what I've seen. They are balanced pretty well so I don't think they are going anywhere. I'm going to cut the power wire about a foot off the mogul and put a plug (male/female) so the pendants can be independently removed from the rack for servicing. I also have the quick release plugs on the ballasts in case I need to service the ballasts.

Yes, if all goes according to plan I will be able to move the pendants up and down on a cable system. It's a little pricey but should work well. I'm also incorporating a rail system so I can move the whole light rack out of the way so I can access the tank. I should have 7 or 8 feet of track that I can slide the light rack on.
 
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was it gel in that packet? i remember when i was replacing the taillights in my old car there was a gel that came with them that you're supposed to apply to the socket/bulb base that will keep water out.

Ummm, dunno what you mean by "packet"? The funny hair product add was just a piece of cardboard. :hmm5:
 
Yes, if all goes according to plan I will be able to move the pendants up and down on a cable system. It's a little pricey but should work well. I'm also incorporating a rail system so I can move the whole light rack out of the way so I can access the tank. I should have 7 or 8 feet of track that I can slide the light rack on.

That'd be nice. I've got a near 10 foot ceiling, so I'm hoping just drawing the lights up will give me enough space to access anything once I get it running. BUT... I may end up doing a track before all's said and done.
 
UPDATE:


Had some time to work on the light rack today. Very impressed with the material from Esto Connectors. Nicely machined and easy to put together. Overall it went together as planned. I underestimated how heavy the fixtures would be on the rack however. There's a bit of flex at the fittings but I think I have a solution to that issue. I'll update you with that in a bit. But now for the pics! :)


Materials: 3 sticks of 1" pipe with 5/8" flange.

1.jpg~original



Profile of pipe and flange.

2.jpg~original



Fittings.

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I used a Freud Diablo blade that was rated for cutting non-ferrous metals. 12" carbide tip blade w/ 90 teeth. I was surprised how easy the aluminum cut.

4.jpg~original



Tip! Set up a jig for multiple cuts.

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After cutting.

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More to come..........
 
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Using a rubber mallet, I simply hammered the fittings into the pipe.

7.jpg~original



Finished corner.

8.jpg~original



First square finished.

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A tee connector.

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Here you can see how snug the fitting are by the burrs peeling up. I took a utility knife ,cut off the burrs, then seated the connector with the mallet.

11.jpg~original



Almost done.

12.jpg~original



More to come..........
 
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