DSB in a bucket for nitrate control

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i've been reading this thread all day and i have some comments.

1. you all are making this entirely too complicated. bucket, sand, water flow over top with pump of choice. high flow to keep sediment from forming or use a prefilter. you don't need to know what sand, what bucket, or what pump. just pick whatever you got or whatever you can get your hands on at home depot or lowes

2. the flow through design is crap. a coil denitrator works by having the O2 depleted in the coil and then the denitrifying takes place in the column on the way out. trying to flow through sand will A) have to be really slow, B) have to be really deep, and C) have to be pressurized to get any type of flow. no practical.

3. The other thing about coil denitrators is that their effluent is high in CO2 and thus low in PH. low PH makes aragonite clump and is also bad for a tank if not properly diluted.

4. The flow through to waste is the most absurd idea i've ever heard. what is the point of sending the water through a DSB if you are going to pipe the output to a drain and replace it with fresh water? wouldn't it be more efficient and simpler to just pipe out straight tank water and replace with fresh salt water?

5. nitrates get to the deep sand by way of osmosis. if you don't know how osmosis works, look it up. the short explination is that molecules in an area of high concentration (nitrate in tank water) travels THROUGH water to areas of low concentration (the sand bed). the water does not have to make this journey, the molecules do it on their own through osmosis

6. for those that are implementing a RDSB and doing massive water changes at the same time...consider this. if your nitrates are at 50 ppm and you start a fresh RDSB, the bacteria need time to multiply. if they multiply to a certain point and then you do a 70% water change, the nitrates are now at .3*50=15ppm. the bacteria will now multiply slower because there is less nitrate to support them. however, something in your tank is making nitrates sky rocket, thus nitrates are multiplying faster than the sand bed is seeding. in other words your massive water changes are basically stunting the growth of your sand bed.

i would suggest that if you have massive nitrate problems to put in a rdsb and do regular small water changes (10-20% weekly) so that the nitrates will remain at a constant semi high level while the rdsb seeds but they don't get rediculously high. once the rdsb is running, you should see the nitrates level off. this means that your rdsb is now taking out nitrate at the same rate it is produced, but you've still got that initial high level in there. this is the time to do some huge water changes to get the plateau point down.


i hope that makes sense. if you think about it a little it should. it gives me a headache seeing you all argue in circles and try to base info on other people's experiences when they either didn't give it enough time, were doing something different, or were doing something totally different than what you are trying to apply it to.
 
I don't recall much arguing in this thread-- some disagreements in the flow through but that was like 3-4 months ago and 20 pages back (so you are a bit late) and a few misconceptions about how the trates get down there... (it is Osmosis which is driven by the 2nd law of thermodynamics-- disorder rules ;) ...)....

but thanks for your opinion and general summation of the method employed and how it works--- I'm sure someone just finding this thread will find it helpful (and save them a few hours of reading)...
 
Here's an idea guys..........

Correct me if I'm wrong, but, the RDSB means (remote DSB) and if it is remote, then it means you are using it because you have no DSB in your system? The remote DSB (RDSB) is basically something for those who have BB tanks.

My tank used to be BB and I had 5" of sand in my sump. I was running a 75gal main with a 75gal sump. I had tons of Cheato. And those of you who have read any of my threads know that I was battling high Nitrates and massive GHA about a year ago. My nitrates ran at about 20 to 40 and it made the tank look like crap.

About two or three months ago I tore down my system and revamped the entire thing. My main was turned to a DSB with about 6" of sand in the main. I did not use Aragonite sand. I used white silica. I added a 20gal RDSB to the system and did no water changes. This was to seed the RDSB and get it running. My nitrates went from 20 to almost 100 in about three weeks. Because of this I eliminated the RDSB from my system.

Because of me using silica sand and I didn't have to worry about aragonite sand clumping, I decided to give the tube-style Denitrator trick a try. My Nitrates are at zero now and I have no algae AT ALL.

This is what I converted to. Instead of using the RDSB as an RDSB in the dark, I put a light over it and used it as an extension of my regular DSB. I seeded it and I run it with light. Since my Nitrates are down to zero, my Cheato has went from the size of 2 basketballs down to about the size of a baseball.

I am sorry if I put a cramp on your ideas of a RDSB, but I believe that people who are running a BB should use a 20 gal bucket and run it as a DSB with light and Nusarius snails and also add a tube denitrator to their system. I personally believe that the RDSB is more trouble than it is worth.
 
I dont think i could do a read like that again. Thanks for all the input. And i just added a dsb to my system i guess ill see what happen in a month or so. ( setting it up was fun i think i got sand in everything in the room lol.)
 
SPUDS: On the last page you mentioned that the DSB verses RDSB applies differently because the larger area surface of a DSB, with oxygenation affects the growth of the bacteria?

What are your thoughts of this idea????

The bucket I used to create my RDSB was 18 inches deep with a 20" diameter. I have 14" of sand in this bucket. Picture this for the idea of this RDSB. With this large bucket I contain both the RDSB and the DSB all in one package. This is how....

The bucket, being so deep, supports darkness and depth for the bacteria for denitrafication, while the top 4 - 6 inches supports all the other benificial things of a regular DSB.

Let's look at this in a Hypathetical way. If a person was to take a 40gal long tank and paint the outside of it black. (This would be to keep the thing dark inside) Fill it as full as you can with sand and have water running across the top very slowly from one end to the other and then returning to the tank by pump. Put a light over the sand filled tank. The top layer of the sand in this tank would act as your DSB containg all the benefits of your DSB.

Now remember, we painted the outside of this tank. The bottom layer of the sand, being in the dark because of the glass being painted, would keep your bottom layers acting as a RDSB and sustain more of your denitafying bacteria.

It's just a thought. I tried it this way and I am at zero and tank is healthy. What do you think of this idea??
 
NITRATESUCKS:

If it is possible for you to get a 75gal tank under your system, try it. Make your sump as hugh as you can. Put about six inches of sand in it and run a 40watt florescent over it 24 hours a day. The added sand bed will help in the health of your tank. Add snails and crabs to the sump, but DO NOT add any sand sifting creatures to your system or they will eat the benificial thing from your sand.

If you have nitrate problems after a month then add a denitrafication tube to your system.
 
Savatage


i don't think the RDSB was the reason reason you nitrates went from 20 - 100. i'd say that had more to do with not doing water changes. i didn't see any results from my RDSB for 3 - 4 week.

i don't have a BB, i run about 1" in my tank. i didn't want a DSB to take up 1/4 of the viewing area of my tank. ( not to mention the cost ) so there was no where for denitrifying bacteria to grow. plus things can go wrong with a DSB, this way i can just shut a valve and remove the RDSB.
 
Understandable, but I think the idea with a very deep bed of sand in something large, with a light, will give the benefits of both the DSB and RDSB, but a person would have to paint the outside of that container.
 
I've been interpreting this concept to mean that you want to have a DSB with macros & critters (either in the display or fuge) and a RDSB without macros & critters.

If the DSB is a fuge you don't want too fast a flow. Whereas in the RDSB application a swift flow is essential.

I'am I correct on that?
 
the fast flow is to keep detrius from settling and clogging up the sand. if you have a mechanical filter to filter out any solid particles before the bucket, then you can flow as slow as you want.

however, putting a fuge on top of the sand in the bucket also runs the risk of clogging the sand due to macro algae or animal waste and/or death.
 
Look, the RDSB is for nitrite control and that is its purpose. A DSB in a fuge or display has other things that are there in the dsb. Not to mention they are being feed by fish waste and dirtus. Look in your dsb if you have oneââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚¦Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚¦Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚¦Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚¦. What dose it look like? Dirty, full of life and critters right? These things are what you DONââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢T WANT in your rdsb. No light, no flow through, nothing. Please stop tying to over complicate this! The rdsb in a bucket with no light, no ditrus on the surface, no live sand, no macro or anything else is so you just have de-nitrification bacteria and thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s all. My 5g bucket has made my 10 ppm nitrite problem go down to .25 ppm. Why? Because I just have my rdsb for this purpose. If you put a light, live sand, or anything else is just a shallow refugium and nothing more.

Sorry for ranting and raving but for the past 33 pages just about everyone has fought with this trying to reinvent the wheel! Bucket, sand, waterââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚¦. Thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s it!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7166853#post7166853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scrager
i've been reading this thread all day and i have some comments.

1. you all are making this entirely too complicated. bucket, sand, water flow over top with pump of choice. high flow to keep sediment from forming or use a prefilter. you don't need to know what sand, what bucket, or what pump. just pick whatever you got or whatever you can get your hands on at home depot or lowes

And get whatever result that you get. You might get lucky. :D

2. the flow through design is crap. a coil denitrator works by having the O2 depleted in the coil and then the denitrifying takes place in the column on the way out. trying to flow through sand will A) have to be really slow, B) have to be really deep, and C) have to be pressurized to get any type of flow. not practical.

I agree.

4. The flow through to waste is the most absurd idea i've ever heard. what is the point of sending the water through a DSB if you are going to pipe the output to a drain and replace it with fresh water? wouldn't it be more efficient and simpler to just pipe out straight tank water and replace with fresh salt water?

Absurdity is in the eye of the beholder, and no, it would not be more efficient. There many more chemical and biological reactions occuring in a RDSB, than just denitrification. The results of these processes can and do build-up. Phosphates build-up and "sink". Hydrogen sulfide is often produced, as well as the processing and sinking of heavy metals.

This is inititally a good thing, as these are being removed from the water column, but over a period of time they can build-up toward the surface causing a large decline in the bed's efficiency.

Removing these toxins and unwanted nutrients from the bed, thru the bottom extends the life of the RDSB, and makes it generally more reliable over the long run.

While you could "just start over" every once in a while, that requires you to tear it down, replace sand, and wait another 3 to 6 mos. for the bed to activate itself again. How is that simple ?

5. nitrates get to the deep sand by way of osmosis. if you don't know how osmosis works, look it up. the short explination is that molecules in an area of high concentration (nitrate in tank water) travels THROUGH water to areas of low concentration (the sand bed). the water does not have to make this journey, the molecules do it on their own through osmosis

The Nitrates and other compounds get to the deep sand through DIFFUSION, not osmosis. Osmosis requires a membrane of some sort, and specificly includes the movement of water. Diffusion does not. :beachbum:

http://www.mun.ca/biology/Osmosis_Diffusion/tutor2.html

Definition

Osmosis is the passage of water from a region of high water concentration through a semi-permeable membrane to a region of low water concentration.

6. for those that are implementing a RDSB and doing massive water changes at the same time...consider this. if your nitrates are at 50 ppm and you start a fresh RDSB, the bacteria need time to multiply. if they multiply to a certain point and then you do a 70% water change, the nitrates are now at .3*50=15ppm. the bacteria will now multiply slower because there is less nitrate to support them. however, something in your tank is making nitrates sky rocket, thus nitrates are multiplying faster than the sand bed is seeding. in other words your massive water changes are basically stunting the growth of your sand bed.

I agree.

i would suggest that if you have massive nitrate problems to put in a rdsb and do regular small water changes (10-20% weekly) so that the nitrates will remain at a constant semi high level while the rdsb seeds but they don't get rediculously high. once the rdsb is running, you should see the nitrates level off. this means that your rdsb is now taking out nitrate at the same rate it is produced, but you've still got that initial high level in there. this is the time to do some huge water changes to get the plateau point down.

A very good point.

Be careful what sand you use, and keep the incoming water rather clean by whatever mechanism. Whatever the sand, be sure to rinse it thoroughly or grade it with a screen to eliminate mud-size and ultra fine particles ( keep it over .3mm ), to keep it efficient and avoid a short bed life.

Happy Reef Keeping > Barry :) :thumbsup:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6976315#post6976315 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Spuds725
I don't think the rules are quite the same--for a RDSB as a DSB-- for a DSB-- it (the DSB) has a larger surface area and therefore a larger fraction of the sand is oxygenated and therefore unable to support Denitrifying bacteria...

Denitrification IS NOT the only process that goes on in a RDSB. It is the Nitrification process, primarily, that removes most of the oxygen from the water.

Ammonia is in your water column all the time, and is processed by nitrifying bacteria everywhere in your system that there is a surface to grow on. This includes the RDSB. This is why you have Nitrates to deal with in the first place.

You are quite right Spuds, about the surface area. It is far more valuable to processing effeciency than any depth beyond 6-8".

> Barry :)
 
Okay guys. I understand what you are saying about the 2 in 1 not being so great together. I have DSB in my systems. I used to have it in my sump with a BB main, but changed that over.

Don't get me wrong, but I like the Denitrafication tube. It seems to be working out good for me.

Like a couple of guys have already said, every system is different and something that works for one person doesn't necessarily mean it will work for everyone. I am having good luck with my DSB in the main and the tube system.

I agree with the RDSB system and if it works for people, that is great. If it does not work, then I would like to suggest that you consider putting a Denitrafication tube to your system. If you want any info on the tube system, please PM me because this thread is for RDSB and not the tube.

Good luck with the RDSB guys. I hope you get great health in your tanks with it.
 
Update on rdsb, running 2 months, my nitrates are now less then 1 . Prior to this had been at 44, I did alot of water changes and cleaned everything to bring them below 5 ,watched it for a week climb to 8. So I uprageded my skimmer form an AquaC 120 to an external Geo and added the rdsb. Now after two months of those changes my nitrates are no longer climbing, and they are dropping , last week they were at 2, today below 1.
 
Is there anyone out there that might come up with a rule of thumb on how much surface area of (let's say 20") deep sand would be effective on a certian amout of water? This might help me with a design for my application. Will 1 5g bucket be big enouph, 2 buckets? Hey, they're cheap! I'll just run them in series with one pump.
 
I think the more the better, but I have a 5g bucket on a 180g total water and my levels are just about to "0" now. It just takes time.
 
I was wondering if you could run them in a time series such as adding a new bucket every year. For a larger system by the end of the second year there would be 3 buckets online and the first could be removed in case anyone was worried about the tank crashing. Since the bucket is left completely undisturbed there would be no real way of checking on it. Right?
 
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