dumb questions!

crazyseany

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ok if you think You have a dumb question post it here!

I'll start

I have these green polyps with long stems that will eat whole brine/mysis.... are these still zoas or palys? or are they just a button polyps?
also have bright green and pink that will do the same....(i think) but know they have long stems for sure.

sean
 
I have a dumb ? also am setting up a CPR overflow with a sump PM Bullet1 Skimmer and Mag 3 return will give me about 225 gph through the sump, if the return is 225gph and the overflow is 600gph what keeps the sump from overflowing?
 
Oldreefer, your water will equalize, the pressure pushing water down your overflow is equal to the water being added to the display tank. I didn't think it would work either until I got my system full of water and watched it in action. If you remove water from the system all levels will remain constent except for your return compartment.

Hope this helps.
 
old reefer if you are doing a hangover the edge type retun pipe for water back to the aquarium make sure you do a power out test because it will back syphon down the return and thru the pump. you can lessen this by drilling a small hole just below the water thine to break the syphon

does that make sense?

sean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10785735#post10785735 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oldreefer76
I have a dumb ? also am setting up a CPR overflow with a sump PM Bullet1 Skimmer and Mag 3 return will give me about 225 gph through the sump, if the return is 225gph and the overflow is 600gph what keeps the sump from overflowing?
think of this scenario. If you block the overflow, the water will build up, then it runs at 600 gph until the extra water is gone, then it can only run at what the pump gives it. Of course debris and calcium can build up in critical places, so you want extra draining capacity in order to avoid the tank filling faster than it can drain. It can only drain faster than it is filling while the water level is high. Once it reaches an equilibrium level, the flows stay equal and the water level stays consistent. Now if instead of using an overflow or a bulkhead, you used a siphon, you could put all of the tank water into the sump and four surrounding counties. :eek1: If you draw any water from the bottom of the tank, be sure there is a siphon break.
 
What keeps it from overflowing too fast is the water isnt pumped up to the overflow box fast enough compared to the box capacity. the power out test is definately a must when i helped setup my friends tank.. The siphon break will prevent any flooding
 
the way an overflow is made. the part that goes over the edge of the tank in theory will have water on both sides of the tank. it will stop till more water is pumped into it.... then drain down the back. with regular built in overflow you can't drain more then what's pumped above the pipe. (hopefully)
 
The return will have a check valve close to the top of the tank to prevent a siphon in case of a power outage, also all pumps on the sump will have a reset relay which will not allow them to come back on after a power outage unless manually reset and some one is present to make sure all is good
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10786623#post10786623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oldreefer76
The return will have a check valve close to the top of the tank to prevent a siphon in case of a power outage, also all pumps on the sump will have a reset relay which will not allow them to come back on after a power outage unless manually reset and some one is present to make sure all is good
Check valves are a good idea in theory BUT they can fail and leak back. The safest is the small drilled hole in the return tube just below the normal water level, the siphon break, it is also the cheapest.
 
Most people would say that check valves fail & your safest bet is a siphon break hole depending on your setup. If i were setting up a sump i would make it as big as possible with a siphon break.
 
cheap check valves fail yes, but those rated for use in fire sprinkler systems, rarely fail and Blazemaster which is pvc has them and we stock them at work, in fact most if not all my plumbing will be done with blaze master pvc
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10787391#post10787391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oldreefer76
cheap check valves fail yes, but those rated for use in fire sprinkler systems, rarely fail and Blazemaster which is pvc has them and we stock them at work, in fact most if not all my plumbing will be done with blaze master pvc


That may be high quality stuff but I don't think it is designed for salt water and snails to be pumped through it. There could be a chunk of algae or just about anything in the way of the check valve when it tries to close and it could trickle water back through your return pipes to the sump until it overflows on the floor.

Unless you are using Penductors there will barely be a trickle coming out of the anti-siphon holes on your return and it is below the waterline anyway. It is a cheap insurance policy against wet floors.
Most people go with an 1/8" hole and if you want to play it safe drill it two places as there could easily be a snail covering one of the holes when the power fails and then it won't ever suck air.
 
Another thing on the CPR overflow,are you going to use a powerhead or the aqua lifter pump to start the siphon? If using the lifter pump make sure you have 2 of them one as a back up as the first one WILL fail when Dan is closed!! Been there done that twice! I had a CPR on my tank, i replaced it with a LifeReef which dosen't use a pump to make it work. Definately go with the drilled siphon break or if you have multiple returns like on a loc-line setup just leave one close to the surface.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10788430#post10788430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazyseany
well what about my polyps?

lol
pics would really help to get an ID.
 
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