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Ed Reef's '295-gallon Peninsular ZEOVit SPS tank'
- Thread starter JohnL
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Ed Reef
New member
Thanks Sandy - your post means a lot to me.
Yeah, it's a great set back for me but today seeing my fishes much better swimming around and fighting for the food again during feeding time brings me back some hope...
Drop of salinity will help if it's only FWLR set-up but the trick here is to balance the corals and fishes....
Yeah, it's a great set back for me but today seeing my fishes much better swimming around and fighting for the food again during feeding time brings me back some hope...
Drop of salinity will help if it's only FWLR set-up but the trick here is to balance the corals and fishes....
Ed Reef
New member
SUMMARY:
SUMMARY:
Wow....my 1st split.......
With the split, I think it’s about time I do a summary for those who don’t want to read through thousand of post:
Introduction and Background
Like many, I have been fascinated by aquatic life since I was a child. Consequently, I have had an aquarium of one form or another for more than 20 years. Below is a picture of my most recent tank (180-g) before it’s tear down and upgrade to this current tank
The Dream
After months of learning, planning, research and consultation, I finally decided to go ahead with my new tank using the latest in marine technology and combined all the great ideas from all of those great reefers as my current SPS are getting too crowded. My decision to used the ZEOVit system also inspired from the many beautiful SPS tanks I see in RC and Zeovit forums…
My dream and objective is to create a natural SPS reef barrier in my home and also automated my tank as much as possible due to my busy work and travel schedules. Also my current tank is not design for easy maintenance as the plumbings are all glued and not able to remove for easy cleaning.
SUMMARY:
Wow....my 1st split.......
With the split, I think it’s about time I do a summary for those who don’t want to read through thousand of post:
Introduction and Background
Like many, I have been fascinated by aquatic life since I was a child. Consequently, I have had an aquarium of one form or another for more than 20 years. Below is a picture of my most recent tank (180-g) before it’s tear down and upgrade to this current tank
The Dream
After months of learning, planning, research and consultation, I finally decided to go ahead with my new tank using the latest in marine technology and combined all the great ideas from all of those great reefers as my current SPS are getting too crowded. My decision to used the ZEOVit system also inspired from the many beautiful SPS tanks I see in RC and Zeovit forums…
My dream and objective is to create a natural SPS reef barrier in my home and also automated my tank as much as possible due to my busy work and travel schedules. Also my current tank is not design for easy maintenance as the plumbings are all glued and not able to remove for easy cleaning.
Ed Reef
New member
System Details
System Details
The Display Tank and Canopy
This is a peninsular tank measures 200cm long, 80cm wide and 70cm high, making it hold approximately 295 gallons. It is viewable from three sides, and has Sapphire® 15mm glass on all viewable sides with a 19mm regular glass on the based and overflow.
System Profile:
Tank Size: L: 200cm x W: 80cm x H 70cm (3-side view Low Iron Glass)
Sump Size: L: 116cm x W: 70cm x H 60cm (Custom)
Type of Reef: SPS Dominated tank with some fishes and LPS
System: External Side Overflow with 200 pounds of base/ live Reef rocks
Cabinet: Iron Metal Stand with Custom made 3-side View wooden Panel
The tank overflow is located on one end housing 2 x Tunze and 1 wavebox with euro bracing surrounds the tank’s perimeter pre-drilled with 8 x 1†holes to be used for add flow, should it be required in the future.
System Details
The Display Tank and Canopy
This is a peninsular tank measures 200cm long, 80cm wide and 70cm high, making it hold approximately 295 gallons. It is viewable from three sides, and has Sapphire® 15mm glass on all viewable sides with a 19mm regular glass on the based and overflow.
System Profile:
Tank Size: L: 200cm x W: 80cm x H 70cm (3-side view Low Iron Glass)
Sump Size: L: 116cm x W: 70cm x H 60cm (Custom)
Type of Reef: SPS Dominated tank with some fishes and LPS
System: External Side Overflow with 200 pounds of base/ live Reef rocks
Cabinet: Iron Metal Stand with Custom made 3-side View wooden Panel
The tank overflow is located on one end housing 2 x Tunze and 1 wavebox with euro bracing surrounds the tank’s perimeter pre-drilled with 8 x 1†holes to be used for add flow, should it be required in the future.
Ed Reef
New member
Sump Tank Design
Sump Tank Design
Sump Tank Design
No refugium will be used in my new system as I will be running the ZEOvit style system but instead incorporate a frag tank where I can used for new frags or newly acquired fishes to be acclimatized before being introducing into the main display.
The sump is 116cm long, 70cm wide and 60cm high and has 4 baffles and incorporates a frag/ quarantine tank. The sump houses a 30cm x 70cm frag/ quarantine tank where new fishes or SPS frags can be first introduce before being place in the main tank. This section of the tank I call a Multi Purpose tank (MPT) I used a 60cm T5HO for the MPT
Sump Tank Design
Sump Tank Design
No refugium will be used in my new system as I will be running the ZEOvit style system but instead incorporate a frag tank where I can used for new frags or newly acquired fishes to be acclimatized before being introducing into the main display.
The sump is 116cm long, 70cm wide and 60cm high and has 4 baffles and incorporates a frag/ quarantine tank. The sump houses a 30cm x 70cm frag/ quarantine tank where new fishes or SPS frags can be first introduce before being place in the main tank. This section of the tank I call a Multi Purpose tank (MPT) I used a 60cm T5HO for the MPT
Ed Reef
New member
Water Quality and Filtration
Water Quality and Filtration
Water Quality and Filtration
I used my current 5-stage RO water filter and approximately 100lbs. of based rocks and 100 lbs. of LR provide biological filtration.
I also add in approximately 2-3cm deep of aragonite in the display - just enough to facilitate aquascaping rather than provide any significant biological filtration. The type of aragonite sand I used is Zeo Aragonite with a grain size between 2-3mm to avoid a sand storm. The sand is soak in RO water for over a month with regular WC until tested zero for PO4
This tank uses the ZEOVit system with a Deltec PF 601S Series Fluidised Calcium Reactor powered by Aquabee pump to maintain my Calcium in my tank. Will also be using D-D Solenoid Valve and D-D CO2 Pin Wheel Regulator to avoid a CO2 disaster and AB Brand SP3000 Peristaltic Pump as water feed to the Calcium reactor.
My reason for choosing Deltec PF 601S Series Fluidised Calcium Reactor is the ability to used RowaC+ as it’s media contains dolomite which releases magnesium as well.
Similarly, no UV or other phosphate removal medium is used, apart from the used of ZEOCarbon as it’s recommended for the ZEOvit system.
For mechanical filtration I will utilize 100-micron nylon filter bags on both 1.5†overflow drainpipes and the 1†skimmer output pipe. I plan to change the 100-micron filter bags daily.
Water Quality and Filtration
Water Quality and Filtration
I used my current 5-stage RO water filter and approximately 100lbs. of based rocks and 100 lbs. of LR provide biological filtration.
I also add in approximately 2-3cm deep of aragonite in the display - just enough to facilitate aquascaping rather than provide any significant biological filtration. The type of aragonite sand I used is Zeo Aragonite with a grain size between 2-3mm to avoid a sand storm. The sand is soak in RO water for over a month with regular WC until tested zero for PO4
This tank uses the ZEOVit system with a Deltec PF 601S Series Fluidised Calcium Reactor powered by Aquabee pump to maintain my Calcium in my tank. Will also be using D-D Solenoid Valve and D-D CO2 Pin Wheel Regulator to avoid a CO2 disaster and AB Brand SP3000 Peristaltic Pump as water feed to the Calcium reactor.
My reason for choosing Deltec PF 601S Series Fluidised Calcium Reactor is the ability to used RowaC+ as it’s media contains dolomite which releases magnesium as well.
Similarly, no UV or other phosphate removal medium is used, apart from the used of ZEOCarbon as it’s recommended for the ZEOvit system.
For mechanical filtration I will utilize 100-micron nylon filter bags on both 1.5†overflow drainpipes and the 1†skimmer output pipe. I plan to change the 100-micron filter bags daily.
Ed Reef
New member
Skimmer
Skimmer
For skimmer, I used Deltec - AP 702 skimmer. This is powered by 2 x Eheim 1260 series pumps and is rated for 1500L to 2000L system, so should be more than enough to removed all those organic waste from the amount of fishes I planned to keep in my new tank. I originally wanted to go with the Deltec AP902 series but the height of this skimmer is just too tall for my tank as everything has to fit under my stand.
Skimmer
For skimmer, I used Deltec - AP 702 skimmer. This is powered by 2 x Eheim 1260 series pumps and is rated for 1500L to 2000L system, so should be more than enough to removed all those organic waste from the amount of fishes I planned to keep in my new tank. I originally wanted to go with the Deltec AP902 series but the height of this skimmer is just too tall for my tank as everything has to fit under my stand.
Ed Reef
New member
Zeovit Reactor
Zeovit Reactor
For my ZEOvit reactor, I used I~Aquatic's ZEOvit Reactor: IZ-818 (Up To 4L of ZEOVit) as from what I read; this is the best reactor out there that is jam-free. This reactor is feed via a Eheim 1250 series pump rated at 1200l/h. There is also a section in my sump to place my ZEOCarbon and this should help keep water parameter in line.
Zeovit Reactor
For my ZEOvit reactor, I used I~Aquatic's ZEOvit Reactor: IZ-818 (Up To 4L of ZEOVit) as from what I read; this is the best reactor out there that is jam-free. This reactor is feed via a Eheim 1250 series pump rated at 1200l/h. There is also a section in my sump to place my ZEOCarbon and this should help keep water parameter in line.
Ed Reef
New member
Lightings
Lightings
Lighting
With the amount of choices today, this was the most difficult thing for me to decide. In my old tank, I was using a Solarmax XBright Series 250w MH with T5HO with XM10K bulbs but was never really happy with the colors and light spread. It’s also very difficult for me to get replacement bulbs and T5 tubes here in China.
With the soaring electricity bills and limited access to imported MH bulbs and T5HO, I finally decided to go with the latest 72†I Series Solaris 20K LED Illumination System as there seem to be a lot of positive feedback on the I-series. Hopefully I won’t have to worry about changing light bulbs in the next 10 years and looking forward to a reduce in electricity bills.
Lightings
Lighting
With the amount of choices today, this was the most difficult thing for me to decide. In my old tank, I was using a Solarmax XBright Series 250w MH with T5HO with XM10K bulbs but was never really happy with the colors and light spread. It’s also very difficult for me to get replacement bulbs and T5 tubes here in China.
With the soaring electricity bills and limited access to imported MH bulbs and T5HO, I finally decided to go with the latest 72†I Series Solaris 20K LED Illumination System as there seem to be a lot of positive feedback on the I-series. Hopefully I won’t have to worry about changing light bulbs in the next 10 years and looking forward to a reduce in electricity bills.
Ed Reef
New member
Light Rail
Light Rail
Light Rail
My only concern is the spread of lights as my tank is 80cm wide but I was assure that it will not be a problem if I hang it 10cm above my tank….so I build a movable lighting tracks to hang my Solaris so that I can have to option to move it left/ right or front/ back. This way, if I need some light focus on a certain area, I have the option to move my lightings as LED lightings are very précised and my concern is light spread.
Circulation
Circulation will be provided by an Sequence Reeflo Pump - Hammerhead (18,000L/h) whose output will be delivered back into the tank via two 1†return on the far end of the tank.
I estimate about 10,000 L/h is delivered back to the tank from the return pump. I might add on 2 Wavesea + in the future to my returns if this is not enough to give a random flow.
I was contemplating on using a close loop but in the end decided not to go this direction, as I want to reduce the risk of flooding from those add holes drilled as in China, I have difficulty in getting good bulk heads (SCH80 series). I opt for 2 x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6201 and 1 x Tunze Wavebox 6212 hidden in my overflow instead. I spoke to Roger of Tunze and he says this should be more than enough flow and should create a 1.5†wave…
I estimated my total flow should be about 50x turnover for the tank with my steam at 70%.
Light Rail
Light Rail
My only concern is the spread of lights as my tank is 80cm wide but I was assure that it will not be a problem if I hang it 10cm above my tank….so I build a movable lighting tracks to hang my Solaris so that I can have to option to move it left/ right or front/ back. This way, if I need some light focus on a certain area, I have the option to move my lightings as LED lightings are very précised and my concern is light spread.
Circulation
Circulation will be provided by an Sequence Reeflo Pump - Hammerhead (18,000L/h) whose output will be delivered back into the tank via two 1†return on the far end of the tank.
I estimate about 10,000 L/h is delivered back to the tank from the return pump. I might add on 2 Wavesea + in the future to my returns if this is not enough to give a random flow.
I was contemplating on using a close loop but in the end decided not to go this direction, as I want to reduce the risk of flooding from those add holes drilled as in China, I have difficulty in getting good bulk heads (SCH80 series). I opt for 2 x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6201 and 1 x Tunze Wavebox 6212 hidden in my overflow instead. I spoke to Roger of Tunze and he says this should be more than enough flow and should create a 1.5†wave…
I estimated my total flow should be about 50x turnover for the tank with my steam at 70%.
Ed Reef
New member
Controller
Controller
Controller
With my goal of automation as much things as possible, I was doing a lot of reading on aquarium controllers….after much thoughts and comparison, I decided to go for want I think it’s the best out there at this moment - ProfiLux Plus II Professional Ex Plus , which included the below:
➢ 2 x 6 socket digital power bar
➢ 1 x ph/temp expansion card
➢ 1 x ph port
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for tank)
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for CR)
➢ 1 x temp port
➢ 1 x temp sensor
➢ 1 x ORP port
➢ 1 x ORP electrode
➢ 1 x Conductivity port
➢ 1 x Conductivity electrode (platinum)
➢ 3 x level control port
➢ 1 x level controls fastening kit
➢ 1 x mechanical float switch
➢ 1 x optical float sensor
➢ 1 x level sensor y-splitter
➢ 2 x tunze control cable
➢ 1 x tunze control y-splitter
➢ 1 x RS232 cable
➢ 1 x USB expansion card with USB cable
➢ 1 x calibration liquid set
I think I’m the 1st person in China using this controller and to top it off, this is the 1st time I’m using a controller of any sort.
Chiller/ Heater
I’m using Hailea HL-2000CHB , with build-in Chiller/ heater and is rated for tanks up to 3000L so this should keep my tank temperature constant during the hotel summer and deep winter. This Hailea chiller series is a JV company with Aqua Medic.
Controller
Controller
With my goal of automation as much things as possible, I was doing a lot of reading on aquarium controllers….after much thoughts and comparison, I decided to go for want I think it’s the best out there at this moment - ProfiLux Plus II Professional Ex Plus , which included the below:
➢ 2 x 6 socket digital power bar
➢ 1 x ph/temp expansion card
➢ 1 x ph port
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for tank)
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for CR)
➢ 1 x temp port
➢ 1 x temp sensor
➢ 1 x ORP port
➢ 1 x ORP electrode
➢ 1 x Conductivity port
➢ 1 x Conductivity electrode (platinum)
➢ 3 x level control port
➢ 1 x level controls fastening kit
➢ 1 x mechanical float switch
➢ 1 x optical float sensor
➢ 1 x level sensor y-splitter
➢ 2 x tunze control cable
➢ 1 x tunze control y-splitter
➢ 1 x RS232 cable
➢ 1 x USB expansion card with USB cable
➢ 1 x calibration liquid set
I think I’m the 1st person in China using this controller and to top it off, this is the 1st time I’m using a controller of any sort.
Chiller/ Heater
I’m using Hailea HL-2000CHB , with build-in Chiller/ heater and is rated for tanks up to 3000L so this should keep my tank temperature constant during the hotel summer and deep winter. This Hailea chiller series is a JV company with Aqua Medic.
Ed Reef
New member
Coral Pegging System
Coral Pegging System
Coral Pegging System
I was most impress with RC’s Dave Jelley’s TOTM (May 2007) as he create an easy way to relocated SPS corals as well as fragging. For those of you in this hobby, we all know how difficult it is to try to glue or move those SPS corals under water and I think his method is very innovative.
This system incorporates drilling small holes into both the display tank's live rock and the base of the subject coral. Rigid tubing is then inserted into the hole in the subject coral and is then placed into the desired hole in the live rock. However, instead of using rigid tubing’s, I have will be using SPS frag plugs instead.
Aquascaping:
The idea is to create a natural as possible Aquascaping with overhangs and plenty of swimming space for my fishes. I have seen so many nice aquascaping here in RC and it’s difficult to decided what I like as I like them all….should I go minimalist, Bonsai type aquascaping or pillars with overhangs??
I finally decided to go with pillars with overhangs as I think this will met my objective of a natural reef for my SPS to grows and also allowed plenty of flow and space for my fishes…
With that, I will be using PVC tubes to create pillars. I will be using 50 percent dried based reef rocks to drill holes into them and aquascape them to my liking. Good thing is here in Fuzhou, I’m able to go to the LFS and choose the type of based rocks I like and need. One of the advantages of being a regular customer, I guess.
Once the mock layout is done, I pre-drill holes for my peg and then I soak in rocks in RO water for over a month with frequent water change until PO4 shows zero reading.
Coral Pegging System
Coral Pegging System
I was most impress with RC’s Dave Jelley’s TOTM (May 2007) as he create an easy way to relocated SPS corals as well as fragging. For those of you in this hobby, we all know how difficult it is to try to glue or move those SPS corals under water and I think his method is very innovative.
This system incorporates drilling small holes into both the display tank's live rock and the base of the subject coral. Rigid tubing is then inserted into the hole in the subject coral and is then placed into the desired hole in the live rock. However, instead of using rigid tubing’s, I have will be using SPS frag plugs instead.
Aquascaping:
The idea is to create a natural as possible Aquascaping with overhangs and plenty of swimming space for my fishes. I have seen so many nice aquascaping here in RC and it’s difficult to decided what I like as I like them all….should I go minimalist, Bonsai type aquascaping or pillars with overhangs??
I finally decided to go with pillars with overhangs as I think this will met my objective of a natural reef for my SPS to grows and also allowed plenty of flow and space for my fishes…
With that, I will be using PVC tubes to create pillars. I will be using 50 percent dried based reef rocks to drill holes into them and aquascape them to my liking. Good thing is here in Fuzhou, I’m able to go to the LFS and choose the type of based rocks I like and need. One of the advantages of being a regular customer, I guess.
Once the mock layout is done, I pre-drill holes for my peg and then I soak in rocks in RO water for over a month with frequent water change until PO4 shows zero reading.
Ed Reef
New member
Plumbing
Plumbing
Plumbing
Order all my plumbing parts locally. Very happy with the quality of the True Union Ball Valve (Sch 80 â€"œ Sankin brand from Taiwan). Unfortunately here in China, I cannot get those beautiful Ball Valve you guys get over there so this is the best I can do…..
The idea I have on the plumbing is to used as many unions as possible so that I can take the plumbing apart every 8-12 months for cleaning, maintenance, etc.
Another reason is due to the nature of my work, I might get relocated to another city/ country every few years and this will enable me to dismantle my set-up easily…..
Plumbing
Plumbing
Order all my plumbing parts locally. Very happy with the quality of the True Union Ball Valve (Sch 80 â€"œ Sankin brand from Taiwan). Unfortunately here in China, I cannot get those beautiful Ball Valve you guys get over there so this is the best I can do…..
The idea I have on the plumbing is to used as many unions as possible so that I can take the plumbing apart every 8-12 months for cleaning, maintenance, etc.
Another reason is due to the nature of my work, I might get relocated to another city/ country every few years and this will enable me to dismantle my set-up easily…..
Ed Reef
New member
Control Panel
Control Panel
Control Panel
I cannot seem to get those DJ power control strips you guys used over there (eventhou I know it’s madeâ€"œin-China) so I purchased those switch individually and make my very own DJ power strip control board…
I also used the same rail for my power box so that I can easily slide out the whole panel for easy removing or installing any plug points…
METAL FRAME FOR CANOPY TOP
I used aluminum for the canopy top as it’s much lighter compare to my metal stand. It’s also comes in 4 pieces for easy assemble/ dismantle in the future…
Control Panel
Control Panel
I cannot seem to get those DJ power control strips you guys used over there (eventhou I know it’s madeâ€"œin-China) so I purchased those switch individually and make my very own DJ power strip control board…
I also used the same rail for my power box so that I can easily slide out the whole panel for easy removing or installing any plug points…
METAL FRAME FOR CANOPY TOP
I used aluminum for the canopy top as it’s much lighter compare to my metal stand. It’s also comes in 4 pieces for easy assemble/ dismantle in the future…
Ed Reef
New member
Frag Trays
Frag Trays
Frag Trays
Also made some frag trays with rubber suckers clips I found locally on-line (which I cut into two and drill holes at the side to attached to the egg crate) so that I can easily stick them onto the glass panel and move them upwards slowly as they get acclimate in the main display.
Frag Trays
Frag Trays
Also made some frag trays with rubber suckers clips I found locally on-line (which I cut into two and drill holes at the side to attached to the egg crate) so that I can easily stick them onto the glass panel and move them upwards slowly as they get acclimate in the main display.
edandsandy
Active member
:dance::dance::dance:
congrats on the split!
congrats on the split!
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