Eradicating Flukes with PraziPro

[jgranata13]

I determined today by freshwater dip that my royal gramma has flukes. They seem to me to be body flukes rather than fill flukes because she's not breathing heavy, flashing, or showing any other signs of respiratory distress.

Do I have to take her out of my QT and sanitize it (to kill/remove all eggs) before putting her back in and treating, or does the treatment take care of the entire life cycle? I don't have any other tank that I could just move her into to carry out treatment, so it has to be in the one that she's in right now.

 

[vinhle00]

You do not need to take it out. Treat it in the current QT with prazipro then repeat again 6-7 days later to get the eggs that hatches. because the treatment does nothing to the eggs only kills the adults. you can repeat a 3rd time to be sure but i have had good result with just two treatments.

 

[snorvich]

You do not need to take it out. Treat it in the current QT with prazipro then repeat again 6-7 days later to get the eggs that hatches. because the treatment does nothing to the eggs only kills the adults. you can repeat a 3rd time to be sure but i have had good result with just two treatments.

Excellent advice

 

[jgranata13]

Eradicating Flukes with PraziPro

Is it safe to use Prime with Prazi for ammonia insurance? I have three test kits that are all giving me different readings:
- Seachem says free ammonia is undetectable
- API says total ammonia is undetectable
- Salifert says total ammonia is 0.25

When I set up the QT (two weeks ago), I put in bio media that had been in my sump for about two weeks and a piece of rock from the display as well for extra certainty. When I started Prazi, I took out the rock so it wouldn't absorb anything and bring any chemicals into the main tank after sterilizing it.

The QT was for sure cycled when I set it up, but I'm not sure now that I took out the rock and everything's giving me different ammonia readings. Nitrite is undetectable across all test kits. So is it safe to throw in some prime to be sure?

 

[vinhle00]

Do not mix prazipro with any ammonia reducer. Instead get yourself an ammonia alert badge like the one from seachem. To handle ammonia i had great result with instant ocean bio spira(bacteria in a bottle) with water changes often, feed less, remove uneaten food. Monitor your fish for loss of appetite, Inflamed gills, Red streaks or inflammation in the fins, Gasping at the surface, or hovering at the bottom.

With your current bio media and what i stated at the top you should be ok with the ammonia problem.

 

[krullshards]

I personally didn't have any issues using Prime and Prazi at the same time. Just aerate heavily while using Prazi.

The Seachem multitest uses the same mechanism (indeed the same little yellow dots) as the ammonia alert badge.

I haven't used the salifert test, but if API and Seachem both agree, then...? I've been wanting to invest in a Hanna Checker.. I'll probably pull the trigger soon.

 

[CHSUB]

Do not mix prazipro with any ammonia reducer. .

why? i have several times without problems.

 

[jgranata13]

Thanks for the replies! In an interesting turn of events, I came home from partying last night to find the fish COVERED in white dots. This morning, almost all were gone... ICH. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]

So it looks like I'll be using prime and Prazi at the same time after all because I'll be starting TTM today. Honestly I would probably use copper since I know TTM is a lot of stress on the fish (not that copper isn't lol) but I'm still in the process of raising salinity from the LFS water and I'm only at 1.021... Evaporation is so SLOW!

 

[krullshards]

Thanks for the replies! In an interesting turn of events, I came home from partying last night to find the fish COVERED in white dots. This morning, almost all were gone... ICH. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]

So it looks like I'll be using prime and Prazi at the same time after all because I'll be starting TTM today. Honestly I would probably use copper since I know TTM is a lot of stress on the fish (not that copper isn't lol) but I'm still in the process of raising salinity from the LFS water and I'm only at 1.021... Evaporation is so SLOW!

You could use this handy calculator to increase the salinity over time. I increased back to 1.026 from hypo at 1.008 over a week or two (I got busy and it took longer).

http://www.saltyzoo.com/SaltyCalcs/SalinityAdjust.php

I think I targeted a .02 - .03 change in specific gravity at each change.

 

[jgranata13]

You could use this handy calculator to increase the salinity over time. I increased back to 1.026 from hypo at 1.008 over a week or two (I got busy and it took longer).



http://www.saltyzoo.com/SaltyCalcs/SalinityAdjust.php

Thanks for the tip! I decided to go with evap because I hate mixing saltwater. Except for mixing up my standard batch, when you're mixing up something else all the measuring and minor adjustments and having to wait each time you add some salt for it to dissolve and mix is just too much hassle! Plus The slowness of the evaporation will make sure that I don't get antsy and end the quarantine early - if I had actively raised the salinity, she'd have been in my DT before I even noticed the inch or flukes!

Anyways, I had a little "accident" with my first transfer that actually turned out to be a kind of positive. I was still calibrating my new heater that I bought specifically for this TTM and accidentally had a short spike to 85° F. But I think it made most of the ich detach because all of a sudden there were a bunch of white grains on the bottom around the pic pipe she was hiding in! I'm not sure if that scenario is really even possible but that would be my guess. Regardless, she looks to be doing a lot better already!

 

[jgranata13]

Does anyone here know if flukes can leave "pits" (sort of like acne scars I guess) on the fish after they've been removed by Prazi? I've done two doses of Prazi in six days (I misunderstood something I read about treating with Prazi while doing TTM) and he fish still has strange spots, and I'm wondering if maybe she actually has Brook; from what I'm reading online, she has pretty much all the symptoms.

When I did my FW dip I DID see what I BELIEVED to be flukes fall off. But I didn't know then that Brook falls off as well, so who knows what I actually saw! I can't find any description/pictures anywhere online of the difference in appearance between flukes and Brook. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a resource or share their knowledge? (To be clear, I'm looking specifically for how to differentiate between what you see at the bottom of the bucket after the FW dip.)