<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13024851#post13024851 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by magdelan
Is that why I got shocked? I was standing barefoot in a puddle when it happened.
Yes that is why as your body closed the circuit to ground and there was no device to interrupt it which that is what GFCIs are supposed to do.
So let's get some additional basic information:
1. Marine tanks and it's related equipment, due to the fact that salt water will affect most conductors / metals are mostly made using materials that are not affected by salt water which also in general are poor electricity conductors (PVC, epoxy, styrene, acrylic, ABS, etc.) so as a result a marine aquarium will be electrically insulated from ground.
2. Electricity by design has to travel in trough one conductor (hot; black or positive red line) to a device and from the device to ground (neutral white; ground green or negative; black or green)) via a second conductor.
3. A conductor conducting changing current (alternating or transient direct) will generate a magnetic field unless properly electrically shielded. In turn a variable magnetic field will generate voltage on a conductor which if grounded or in a closed circuit will generate current trough it.
4. A breaker is designed to
protect the wires and trip (disconnect) if a circuit current exceeds usually 15 to 20 ampere. This can be caused by a short circuit or equipment overload.
5. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is designed to
protect a person and trip if there is an unbalanced current of as little more than 5 thousands of an ampere between the input conductor and the output conductor which means part of the current has been diverted from the normal path (potentially trough the person)
Now having established some of the basics I will describe some scenarios assuming there is always a functioning circuit breaker...
1. With no GFCI and No Grounding probe
Tank and system is insulated from ground. If there is a faulty wire connecting either hot or positive lines to the water or to a device which in turn can connect to the water there will be voltage in the water but no current as the circuit is not closed so the breaker does not see an increased current thus does not trip until the circuit is closed, in this situation I doubt anything in the tank may be affected as they will be in a similar situation as a bird on a wire but:
a) If are lucky and the faulty wire shorts to the other wire; hot to neutral or ground, or neutral or ground to hot) with very little resistance then the current will exceed the 15 or 20 Amps and the breaker will trip but
b) If the short has some resistance the current will increase but may not reach the tripping level, in this case your power consumption will increase, the device will not function properly and your wiring may overheat creating a second potential for a more serious short circuit or even a fire.
At increase current also, if there is a false contact in the circuit (say the plug in the outlet is a bit loose) sparks will be created at the contact point overheating, melting the contact metal or melting the wire creating a serious hazard for a fire, all this without the breaker even noticing because the current has not exceeded the limit.
c) If you are unlucky enough to put your had into the water or touch the device with the faulty wiring while you are fairly well grounded (Barefoot on a puddle as an example) you will be seriously shocked or electrocuted as the current needed for that to happen is way below the 15 Amp needed for the breaker to do it's thing so it will probably will not trip. The degree at which you will be shocked will depend on how well you are grounded. If wearing dry rubber soled shoes or standing on a wood chair or rubber mat you may not be shocked at all.
2. With no GFCI but with Grounding Probe
Tank and system is no longer insulated from ground. If there is a faulty wire connecting either hot or positive lines to the water or to a device which in turn can connect to the water there will be no voltage in the water but current as the circuit is closed. If the current is high enough the breaker will trip and the degree at which our critters will be affected depends on how fast the breaker will trip from no affected at all to fully fried.
a) If the short circuit is not good enough to create a current high enough to trip the breaker but high enough, you will be in a similar situation of 1(b) above, our critters most likely be very hurt and damaged and the potential for a fire is pretty high. This is most often seen with a faulty heater or a power head with cracked wire or epoxy insulator inside the water.
b) If the short circuit is outside the tank (say the hot wire shorts to the lighting fixture metal hood or reflector) there will be no current in the tank as the circuit is not closed via the grounding probe. In this case if you work in the water nothing will happen but because the water is well grounded, if you accidentally touch the fixture (say with your elbow) while working in the tank then you again close the circuit, in this case because you will always be well grounded (by the probe) then most likely your shock will always be serious.
3. With GFCI and with Grounding Probe
In this case any time there is some short to water, wether via wire or via yourself and because there will be diverted current to the ground probe even in small amount, the GFCI will always trip if functioning properly.
This is good as it will give you an immediate indication that something is wrong and you will not be in danger of getting shocked so it is a safe if not the safest alternative for you but you need to be around to notice and correct the fault. If you happen to be traveling and the fault happens your system may be without power for a long time. This could be minimized using different GFCI's for different pieces of equipment so not all the system turns off.
4. With GFCI and without Grounding Probe
In this case if there is a fault to the water because there is no ground probe the circuit will not be closed so it will continue operating normally until something or somebody closes the circuit. In this case the GFCI will trip. If it is you closing the circuit, you may or may not even feel a slight tingling before the GFCI trips.
In summary the safest for you will be to use GFCI and Probe but using only GFCI is a good compromise as you will be protected but the system will not trip when you are not around.
None of the cases 1 trough 4 above IMO could really be called "stray" but rather actual faulty "short circuits".
Most cases of actual "stray" voltage are caused indirectly mostly by magnetic fields or electrical noise.
Some classical examples are the voltage created on a metallic reflector by the magnetic field around the bulb. In this case there will be voltage in the reflector which if touched and you are grounded it will give you a shock similar to the shock of the spark you get when charged by walking on a carpet on your socks and then touch something or someone grounded.
Note that by definition stray current will be the one created by stray voltage and will happen only if the circuit for that voltage is closed (reflector>you>ground).
Although stray voltage per se could be pretty high the current it generates it is either only instantaneous; like the carpet rubbing case of voltage capacitive discharge, or rather continuous but very small; like the inductive case of the reflector which can easily be avoided just by grounding the reflector.
In my opinion the only concern with capacitive or inductively created stray voltage is really that it can create false tripping of the GFCIs. Also false tripping can be created by unfiltered noisy devices (cheaper ballasts are typical for this).
Hope this info can help to clarify a bit some concepts but by no means should be interpreted as a stated recommendation and if you have any doubts about electrical safety of your system I would recommend you consult with a local licensed electrician.
Enjoy and Be Safe!