Fighting and beating AEFW w/Bayer

dowtish

New member
So the popularity of using Bayer Insecticide for a coral dip seems to be spreading. I thought I would share my experience with battling AEFW recently and how well it went using Bayer.

I discovered them back in November and had been experiencing signs of things just not quite looking right. I began racking my brain of what I had done differently, and there was all kinds of things. Added a fuge, changed my bulb combo, had a slight swing here and there etc. But the last thing I thought was AEFW. I had dipped all my corals before putting them into my tank, and there is a certain level of denial that I felt in the hopes that it truly wasnt the dreaded AEFW. But the truth is, some of my coral dips were not very thorough, and I didnt always inspect for eggs. When I finally saw them, it's super easy to see the bite marks, but I needed a magnifying glass to really see the eggs.

Here is the dip that I used. I used 5-6ml per cup of saltwater for 10 minutes and with a pump for flow in the dipping bucket. once a week for 8 weeks. I then rinsed them in more saltwater before placing back into the tank.
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I only had a few colonies that were really encrusted on my rocks, so I immediately broke off all smaller frags and placed them on a frag rack until I could get my QT tank setup. I began to dip what I could easily and placing them back into my DT. I was lucky in the sense that I had already began to accumulate things for a frag tank. So I had not only proper filtration for the QT but also good lighting. I think this is key if you plan to do a full 8 week dipping regiment.

Here was the result of my first dip
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Here is a pic of the QT setup.

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Once everything was plumbed up I began moving every Acro over to the QT.

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The hardest part is all the colonies that were encrusted on the rocks, and I had to snap what I could off. And I had to kill off what remains on the rocks in order for the AEFW not have anything to feed on and in case there are eggs underneath somewhere on the rocks. And in some cases, I had 4-5 inches of encrusting on the rock alone. I found that a diamond plated dremmel wheel cut thru my LR like butter, and all encrusting acros came right off with ease.

I did move a few pieces of LR over into the QT because I initially added a 6 line wrasse to maybe help me in efforts. I noticed the day that I dipped every coral for the first time all at once that when they were all placed back into the tank, that suddenly I saw all kinds of pods dead and floating all over the QT, all the pods in the LR immediately died. Also to note. My cleaner shrimp died right before I moved everything over from the DT. So the frags that I dipped before moving everything over probably killed my cleaner shrimp. So I believe this dip is obviously pretty toxic to all inverts and pods. So a good proper rinse is necessary.

The dipping continued and the AEFW seemed to fall off instantly in the Bayer dip. After the 4th week I no longer saw any AEFW. And as time went buy the AEFW that did fall off were much smaller than in the beginning. But I continued to dip for the total 8 weeks, and inspected with a magnifying glass for eggs.

Given the white milky color of the Bayer dip, I wanted to be able to tell what corals had AEFW more than others. So as I dipped each coral I used a sieve strainer that I had for hatching baby brine shrimp to pour the dip water thru to see exactly what and how many was coming off of each coral. It was odd to me which corals had more and then some never seemed to be affected. No rhyme or reason to explain that.

Quick video of the QT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQhQXT1Xr6I&feature=share&list=UUiIrju8joSfDCWLj6TKGFng

The thing that I want to be most noted in all of this is that using Bayer every 7 days for 8 weeks at 5-6ml for 10 min. never made my corals lose color or lose PE. In fact I experienced growth through the process. My efflo colony and red planet that I had sitting on PVC for the last couple of weeks as I was slowly moving the corals back over to the DT actually fused to the PVC and grew all down the sides of it.


Here are my Hawkins and Granulosa pics of the corals from the QT that also showed considerable growth.

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And here is the DT with everything moved back over.
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Given that I had a good setup for my QT, I think made all the difference for me. I just would not be able to properly gauge if my corals were doing well over 2 months, if they didnt have good filtration and lighting. I'm not saying you cant do it without it, but you will be doing way more WC's than anybody has time for. And being that the Bayer seemed to be so gentle on the corals, that I never lost color or growth during all of this. Which speaks volumes as opposed to other popular dips on the market.
 
I am much obliged for the detailed write up. I've seen many references to "Bayer" and had little idea what the protocol was, or even how the product was sold. Thanks!
 
Great job with the write up. Good info for someone having to deal with this devastating pest.

So now that you've lived it.

Would you put anything new into you DT without using that shiny new QT tank first?

Or are you planning to continue to rely on just dipping it?
 
Great job with the write up. Good info for someone having to deal with this devastating pest.

So now that you've lived it.

Would you put anything new into you DT without using that shiny new QT tank first?

Or are you planning to continue to rely on just dipping it?

The QT was not new by any means. Everything was used except for the lights.

And I totally plan on keeping the QT running at all times and will QT any new corals that I get. And I will at least dip them once a week for 4 weeks. It's not not worth it any other way IMO.
 
Just thought of something given the response of your pods and shrimp: this protocol should also be effective against red bugs, shouldn't it?
 
Bayer

Bayer

I would caution on the 10 min Bayer dip killing red bugs. I have had them survive this dip with 20/ml per cup.

Last weekend I extended the dip to 15 min and I haven't seen a red bug back in my QT.

Although it's very early to draw any conclusions, it appears the length of the dip is key for red bugs.

still experimenting...
 
Thanks for the thorough review. Given your corals coloration, I never would have suspected you had AEFW.

Sounds like Bayer is a great solution.
 
Great write up and congratulations...AEFW does not have to be a death note for a tank at all. With a decent quarantine its pretty easy to beat these guys with thorough and diligent dipping, inspecting, and leaving the main tank free of acroporas for 8-12 weeks.
 
Thanks everybody for the comments.

I agree it is a different situation with the red bugs. You do have to dip longer and stronger for them.

I totally agree that if you find them, just accept the fact that you got them, and immediately make a plan for QT and attack it. You will beat it, and not have to suffer too many losses. I did lose some nice colonies that I had to just snip off 4-5 1" branches. I then glued 2-3 of them on a frag plug and they fused right back into a decent sized frag. And soon enough they will be a nice mini colony. No big deal. The way I look at it is, if I lost some decent sized colonies, that is just a great excuse to buy something different. :)
 
Everyone needs to go buy bayer so it doesn't get discontinued like interceptor ! I've used it successfully to treat everything from lps ---> sps I do 8ml to 1L of saltwater for 15min and have never had any issues. It kills everything and you will see amazing polyp extension almost immediately. The worst part about getting anything in your tank I had the exact same problem you have to suck it up and get rid off all your encrustings. If you leave anything on the rocks you basically risk that they will live off that. Take encrusted rock out vinegar it and let it dry out for a couple weeks and then re-cycle it.
 
I also wanted to add a couple of photos to show what to look for. Thanks to aqua80 for permission to use his pics.

AEFW
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Bite marks
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Eggs
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Has anybody every used Bayer as an in tank treatment? I know you said it killed pods and possibly your cleaner shrimp, but Interceptor had the same effect on inverts. Just curious if it's been tried and if there was any effect on fish.

I dip all my coral in Bayer, but would still love to have a QT setup, especially one as nice as yours.
 
Has anybody every used Bayer as an in tank treatment? I know you said it killed pods and possibly your cleaner shrimp, but Interceptor had the same effect on inverts. Just curious if it's been tried and if there was any effect on fish.

I dip all my coral in Bayer, but would still love to have a QT setup, especially one as nice as yours.

It is toxic and would kill your fish.
 
Great writeup. I had similar issues in Jan as well. I tried using my QT but my lighting was inadequate so I moved everything back to the DT and have been dipping weekly for the past 5 weeks. I lost my cleaner shrimp as well. I think I didn't clean the frags well enough after the Bayer dip. It is definitely toxic to pods/inverts.

I think QT is the best, but a weekly removal from DT to dip is a viable alternative.
 
I hear its necessary to move any encrusting montis as well? Did you do so?

I've been doing 20ml per cup with no I'll effects. But that's dipping colonies that are showing bite marks or color loss. On those colonies, I have usually found eggs on the base of those colonies.
 
I hear its necessary to move any encrusting montis as well? Did you do so?

I've been doing 20ml per cup with no I'll effects. But that's dipping colonies that are showing bite marks or color loss. On those colonies, I have usually found eggs on the base of those colonies.

I found no real data or experience from anyone that could truly verify that AEFW effects anything else other than Acropora. I did not remove any montipora species or seriatopora species from my tank. And that have not shown any signs ever.

I am sure that you can dose at a higher strength, but I found it unnecessary.
 
.AEFW does not have to be a death note for a tank at all. With a decent quarantine its pretty easy to beat these guys with thorough and diligent dipping, inspecting, and leaving the main tank free of acroporas for 8-12 weeks.

Actually with a decent quarantine it's a lot easier to prevent these guys from getting into you DT in the first place.

What dowtish describes here, what he had to go through, to rid his DT of this nightmare, isn't at all what I would consider as being easy.
 
Actually with a decent quarantine it's a lot easier to prevent these guys from getting into you DT in the first place.

What dowtish describes here, what he had to go through, to rid his DT of this nightmare, isn't at all what I would consider as being easy.

Very true! this was not easy at all. And if I had this QT tank setup all along I would have avoided this all together. But the fact remains. I couldnt afford two setups like this at one time in the beginning. This all came from slowly acquiring good deals on used equipment for me. There are plenty of folks out there that can afford to set up 2 tanks in the beginning, but I am not one of those people.
 
Great write up and congratulations...AEFW does not have to be a death note for a tank at all. With a decent quarantine its pretty easy to beat these guys with thorough and diligent dipping, inspecting, and leaving the main tank free of acroporas for 8-12 weeks.

Yep. I would never again keep acropora's without having and USING a QT tank.
 
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