Fighting and beating AEFW w/Bayer

Now I never ever measure out my Bayer dip. I over time I learned how "milky" the dip should look and shoot for that. I go WAY over 2.5mil per cup that was recommended when the dip idea first came out. I think it would be hard to over dose short of having a crazy ratio. If I would guess I'm going 10-20 mils per cup and never lost a single acro and pe is always great after. The higher you go tho the better you have to wash the frags with clean salt tank water to avoid transferring some to the tank
 
Just wanted to say a big thank you. This thread was one of the main sources of info (a few other people gave me similar advice etc), but this thread had the info all in one place. As far as I can tell, my corals are free of this deadly creature. Many thanks for bothering to put this thread together. It honesly helped me fight the AEFW's and I was able to feel somewhat confident after reading this thread.

Many thanks.

To anyone else faced with dealing with AEFW's; know that they are not the end of your corals and tank. They can be beat. :)
 
Wondering why people don't use the bayer with germ killer which mixes clear? That way you can see whats coming off the acro.
 
Without reading the whole thread...I'm amazed all of your acros tolerated the move the way they did. If I move an acro to a new spot on the rocks I end up getting stn all over the place.
 
Just wanted to say a big thank you. This thread was one of the main sources of info (a few other people gave me similar advice etc), but this thread had the info all in one place. As far as I can tell, my corals are free of this deadly creature. Many thanks for bothering to put this thread together. It honesly helped me fight the AEFW's and I was able to feel somewhat confident after reading this thread.

Many thanks.

To anyone else faced with dealing with AEFW's; know that they are not the end of your corals and tank. They can be beat. :)

sahin- I appreciate the kind comments. This was a very stressful time for me and I wanted to make sure that other folks could attack this issue with confidence. It was no chore at all sharing the info because this is what this hobby is all about to me. Sharing info so we can ALL succeed.

Wondering why people don't use the bayer with germ killer which mixes clear? That way you can see whats coming off the acro.

In my area specifically I never saw that as an option where I purchased my Bayer. Not that I couldnt have ordered it online, but I spent $12 and had enough Bayer to last a while. Using the siev strainer worked perfectly for me and really provided a way for me to individually inspect each coral that I dipped. However if you have access to the grem killer I would go that route out of convenience for sure.

Without reading the whole thread...I'm amazed all of your acros tolerated the move the way they did. If I move an acro to a new spot on the rocks I end up getting stn all over the place.

IMO, your acros shouldnt be that sensitive to just moving them. That would let me know they are not healthy over all, and are just hanging on and not thriving. I handle acros completely differently than I did in the beginning. I am even guilty of not even acclimating new ones at this point. I open the bag, grab them with my hand and place them in the tank. Acros are really way more resilient than most people think when placed into a stable system.
 
IMO, your acros shouldnt be that sensitive to just moving them. That would let me know they are not healthy over all, and are just hanging on and not thriving. I handle acros completely differently than I did in the beginning. I am even guilty of not even acclimating new ones at this point. I open the bag, grab them with my hand and place them in the tank. Acros are really way more resilient than most people think when placed into a stable system.

+1 Big time. My corals are pegged so I move them around in my current setup. I test PAR and move acros according to where I feel they will best grow.

I too dont even acclimate...although they dont go into the display now, they get thrown into QT/Dipped/then 100% water change for the QT tank etc, move into display some weeks later etc etc.

If you are getting RTN/STN issue then something is not right with the system and the resultant coral issues are due to that, and not that because you moved them.
 
dowtish,

Since you have fishes in the quarantine tank and Bayer will kill them.....did you remove all the fishes every week prior to the treatment? Or were the sps moved out and dipped individually, rinsed, then placed back to the tank? The quarantine tank is just a holding tank to keep during the duration of the 8 week treatment?

Sorry, if you had mentioned it in prior posts, then I had just missed it.
 
I have been using 25ml of Bayer along with Revive, Flatworm Exit, and Lugols in my 5 cup cocktail for the past year. I time my dips at 8 minutes. Dipped at least 400-500 frags..... Then rinse in two separate containers of water. Only coral lost were Red Dragons.....

Back then, no one really knows what would kill them....so I just threw in a bit of everything to do a catch-all. New posts of others' experience make me feel my concoction is super overly toxic for the frags.

I'm going to treat a 40g frag tank with Levamisole next. I have fishes in the tank that I can't just remove every week. Levamisole is not toxic to fishes. The Bayer treatment works, but it takes me about 4 hours to treat the 40g worth of frags. When I do one side of the tank at a time, the flatworms come back the following week. And I think Bayer the whole 40g would be very difficult to rinse off later.
 
I have been using 25ml of Bayer along with Revive, Flatworm Exit, and Lugols in my 5 cup cocktail for the past year. I time my dips at 8 minutes. Dipped at least 400-500 frags..... Then rinse in two separate containers of water. Only coral lost were Red Dragons.....

Back then, no one really knows what would kill them....so I just threw in a bit of everything to do a catch-all. New posts of others' experience make me feel my concoction is super overly toxic for the frags.

I'm going to treat a 40g frag tank with Levamisole next. I have fishes in the tank that I can't just remove every week. Levamisole is not toxic to fishes. The Bayer treatment works, but it takes me about 4 hours to treat the 40g worth of frags. When I do one side of the tank at a time, the flatworms come back the following week. And I think Bayer the whole 40g would be very difficult to rinse off later.

4hrs for a 40g WOW! I dipped 50 acros in my 105 every 6 days for about two months and took me 2 hrs each time. It was the BIGGEST pain in the rear.... however 1 year later my tank is rocking and not a sign of AEFW. The pain is worth the results, trust me!
 
Thanks dowtish and sahin for the info on treatment. I will report back with my progress and how it turns out. I'm piecing together a QT system. This has been extremely helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time.
 
dowtish,

Since you have fishes in the quarantine tank and Bayer will kill them.....did you remove all the fishes every week prior to the treatment? Or were the sps moved out and dipped individually, rinsed, then placed back to the tank? The quarantine tank is just a holding tank to keep during the duration of the 8 week treatment?

Sorry, if you had mentioned it in prior posts, then I had just missed it.

The fish that were in the QT tank were only added after the second week of placing all the SPS in the QT. They were unaffected from the dips because I pulled each coral and dipped them. This is NOT an in tank treatment. I rinsed each coral after the dip twice in 2 separate cups before placing them back into the QT. I chose to add the chromis because I felt the tank needed some sort of food source for the SPS...in this case fish poop.
 
i think this needs a bump up. i think i may have found AEFW in my tank..... i am waiting to get a magnify glass that i get on saturday and if i find it I will be doing all of this :(
 
Pictures would help identify them. I look with a flash light at night to the underside of the corals. That's where you'll find the most bite marks.
 
Pictures would help identify them. I look with a flash light at night to the underside of the corals. That's where you'll find the most bite marks.

i only saw it on the one coral, it is now in the trash can but when i dipped it with bayer after i saw what i thought was bite marks. nothing came off and i couldnt see anything. no other corals show anything and i have had this coral for over a year now, so a little strange.

really really hoping it wasnt aefw but if i see another showing signs soon i will have to assume it is and treat the whole tank with a dip every week :(

the tank will be ugly for a little bit with egg crate in the middle with the corals on it since i will obviously have to take them off the rockwork.
 
just dipped any coral that i thought wasnt having as good pe as the others, didnt see any bite marks or any red flatworms come off. there definitely were some regular flatworms but none looked like the ones pictures in this thread and nothing near as big as the ones pictured. these were so small that i could barely see them with the naked eye and had to use a 7x magnify glass. also saw no eggs on any of the corals
 
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