Fighting Ich ( tank transfer method ) Questions.

reeferman1128

New member
I am looking to start the tank transfer method to combat ich. I have an idea that may be less stressful on the fish during the process.

Instead of mixing up new batches of water for the fish for each transfer, would it be possible to take water from the tank and filter it through a 5 micron filter sock into the QT tank. This allows the fish to stay in the exact parameters they are use to instead of possibly being off on one thing or another by even a little for the 4-5 transfers.

The smallest stage of ich is 25-100 micron. In fact most parasites are larger than 5 microns. This would theoretically filter almost all dangerous organisms while keeping the fish in the exact parameters for each transfer.

I can then use new batches as water changes for the dt thus helping to decrease the ich population in the dt.

Is seems as though it would be accomplishing a lot is a much simpler way.

Thoughts?


55 gallon reef. parameters are all in line per refractor, hana and good sps growth and color.
 
No, it is best to use new water in the tank transfers. If your display tank has ich, it needs to remain fallow for 9 weeks. Generally you never want to share water between any tank.
 
This article states the smallest measurement of any stage of ich was 20x60um. um = micrometer = micron. That being said... water filtered through a 5 micon filter would contain "0" Cryptocaryon irritans.

Thus water from an infected tank could be used, if filtered properly, for the tank transfer method.

I understand this is not a method to rid the parasite from display tank. Fallow period is the only way.

But using the filtered water from the DT that the fish are used to may reduse stress during transfers. Not to mention the time saved for not mixing an extra hundred gallons for the transfer on top of normal water changes.
 
This article states the smallest measurement of any stage of ich was 20x60um. um = micrometer = micron. That being said... water filtered through a 5 micon filter would contain "0" Cryptocaryon irritans.

Thus water from an infected tank could be used, if filtered properly, for the tank transfer method.

I understand this is not a method to rid the parasite from display tank. Fallow period is the only way.

But using the filtered water from the DT that the fish are used to may reduse stress during transfers. Not to mention the time saved for not mixing an extra hundred gallons for the transfer on top of normal water changes.

You are certainly free to do what you think is best. I would never consider doing so, however. Risk versus reward ratios.
And that is my last posting on the subject. Best of luck!
 
So far I have completed two transfers cycles with this procedure. I am using a 5 gallon bucket and 10 gallon tank ( only using 5 gallons of water) as the transfer tanks for a black clown, naked clown and yellow tang. I monitor ammonia everyday and it seems to be staying safe with very light feeding. I have not seen an signs of ich in 4 days.

My naked had it the worst. He had 10 or so specs on him, had stopped eating and was very lethargic. He is now eating as much as I give him and becoming the dominate fish again while in the QT's. Back to his old self.

During first transfer I added 5 drops of Quickcure as an added measure. I have not added any medication since. I did a very thorough look on all of them yesterday and could not see one spec.

Will keep posted.
 
i read something about that method reefer. seems like a ton more work to me. i think as long as temp, sg and ph are almost identical that should help to illiminate additional stress.

im still tring to figure out the best way to transfer fish from tank to tank without transfering any water. i would think if u transfer any of the protomont stage u would have to start over. seems like that is nearly imposible to accomplish. maybe im over thinking it.
 
i read something about that method reefer. seems like a ton more work to me. i think as long as temp, sg and ph are almost identical that should help to illiminate additional stress.

im still tring to figure out the best way to transfer fish from tank to tank without transfering any water. i would think if u transfer any of the protomont stage u would have to start over. seems like that is nearly imposible to accomplish. maybe im over thinking it.

Tupperware. Capture, drain the water slowly, then transfer. Always avoid netting fish.
 
Did another transfer last night. Absolutely no signs of ick. I did notice a bump on the naked clown. Looked a bit like a wort. Same color as skin. Snorvich, maybe let me know your thoughts on this.

I have been using the 5 micron filter for water changes directly from the tank. I have not been using a filter. Just a heater and a dual tube air pump. I have been dryin g the heater in the oven and microwaving the tubes for 30 seconds and switching ends during transfers.

I dosed quickcure when placing the fish in new tank as a precaution against any free swimmers this time. Also due to the lump on the clown.

Besides that it took all of 15 min to fill , transfer, refill DT and empy old water. Add an extra 10 min to make sure the heater was fully dry before adding in. Fish transfer was done with tupperware container.
 
im glad to see that u have no signs of ich. i hope everything goes well for u. im not having such good luck. im wishing i did copper instead. 3 fish dead in 3 days. including my favorite power blue.

i am thinking of using a plastic strainer to transfer fish. i used tupperware this morning on my first transfer. a few fish look like they might have some ammo burn even though i did 5 gal w/c's every day and added prime daily. kinda bummed. fish still have signs of ich.
 
Sorry to hear about your fish Mos. Thats never fun.

I was very concerned with matching parameters, even the ones we cannot test for with the change of water. This is why I pull it right from the DT and run it through the 5 micron filter. Some say its risky but mathematically its impossible for the ick to get though.

I felt using the tank water just eliminated one more stressor for the fish.

Are you testing your ammonia. Im surprised with the issue since you are doing additional water changes.

I also have been dosing quickcure ( formalin ) during each transfer to kill any free swimmers that may have made the transfer.
 
Not for long term treatment as the active ingredients only work for the free swimming stages and are only effective for a few hrs. I use it strickly to knock out any free swimmers that may have gotten through the transfer. Its doest work well for Brook though.
 
Not for long term treatment as the active ingredients only work for the free swimming stages and are only effective for a few hrs. I use it strickly to knock out any free swimmers that may have gotten through the transfer. Its doest work well for Brook though.

and does it help? how much are u dosing? 1 drop?
 
The directions are 1 drop per gallon. I usually do 6 or 7 for 5 gallons. The formalin will kill any free swimmers but not cysts either on or off the fish. The ones off the fish get taken care of with the tank transfers. the ones on will eventually fall off and will get taken care of in tank transfers as well. I use the quickcure as one additional weapon.

So far I have had GREAT results. It has only been 10 days and 3 transfers though. Im going to probably do an additional 4 on the 3 day regiment then just keep them in a larger tank and perform water changes as needed per ammonia and nitrates for the remaining few weeks.
 
walmart has quickcure in stock. i will shoot over there and get some tonight. ive read quickcure is good for flukes and velvet too. but can lower oxygen levels.
 
IMO, there is WAY too much worry about "stress'' on this thread. Look at what a fish goes through on the reef; one eye on food and the other on predators wanting to eat him. Then, the trip from reef to your tank. If a fish can handle that, even a fish with ich can handle a quick rank transfer. Ich is the major stressor; I think success with Snorvich's proven procedure will eliminate the ich the fastest, easiest, and most foolproof possible. IMO, the term'stress" has lost all significance because it is so overused. It seems that anytime a fish dies , and the cause isn't obvious, it must be "stress".
 
Mos

I use a dual tube air pump to pump as much air in when adding the medicine.

Keep in mind there is more than one way to skin a cat. If you understand the life cycle and size of the little bastards it is much easier to rid them no matter the method you choose.

I feel that tank transfer is the easiest to regulate as copper and hypo are very easily misapplied.
 
I believe that your method seems as logical as any of the others that I have heard or read about, and I would venture to guess that I have read just about every post/publication on here regarding quarantine and Ich.

Where did you get the 5 micron filter?
 
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