zachfishman
Active member
Gotta love the instructions from Glass-Holes
Finally! 34g cube!
- Thread starter zachfishman
- Start date
zachfishman
Active member
The "Super Nano" overflow from GH is quite nice; very uniform beveling and feels quite solid. I was surprised to see a removable cover of sorts that wedges above the actual bulkhead outlet, which is meant to contain drain sounds.
zachfishman
Active member
Check your glass-holes template! Mine was 1/8" short. Had I not noticed, my overflow would've been 1/8" higher than where I wanted it.
zachfishman
Active member
Drilling the overflow and return holes. A little tense at first but it went well. I ended up with one small chip on the overflow hole but it's within the gasket. Using plumber's putty to keep a pool of water on the drill bit worked great (a la glass-holes instructional video).
zachfishman
Active member
Flow plan. Once in a while I'll rotate the return straight down to break up detritus in the bottom left corner.
zachfishman
Active member
I can finally call you on those red hornets this fall. :thumbsup:
zachfishman
Active member
Looking handsome! Plumbing to come.
URL=http://s989.photobucket.com/user/zachfishman/media/34g%20Solana/2014-08-29175354.jpg.html]
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URL=http://s989.photobucket.com/user/zachfishman/media/34g%20Solana/2014-08-29175354.jpg.html]
zachfishman
Active member
Shot of the back. Really like the minimalism of the GH overflow. Overflow top is positioned 1 1/8" below the rim - with 100-150gph I expect the waterline to be about 1" below the rim.
zachfishman
Active member
So the stock ballast buzzed a little - can't have that. So I rigged up a Galaxy Select-A-Watt and it's dead silent thank goodness. It's pretty big compared to the old ballast but not noticeable when the tank is against the wall. Anybody want to buy a Solana 150w HQI ballast (or trade for some good zoas)?
zachfishman
Active member
Discovered a new problem last week: the pendent doesn't sit center over the tank... I guess it is centered when there's 3" of filtration taking up the back. My solution was to wall mount it. I went through three iterations of stronger and stronger wall bolts/anchors until I realized it couldn't be held up by the original mounts alone. The weight is so far off the wall that the heavy pendent was pulling my sheet rock out! Rock solid now. :dance:
zachfishman
Active member
All lit up! This is a 150w Radium DE (much better blue than Phoenix IMO), but still a little blue for me. I just ordered a 14k Ushio from Hellolights and will try that next. They're having a 50% off sale right now BTW.
zachfishman
Active member
Thanks. I'm hosting the December meeting so you're welcome to come and see it in person
zachfishman
Active member
All plumbed and pretty. Leak test time!
zachfishman
Active member
Looking good! The GH overflow is very silent. As you can see I ended up placing the MP10 on the other side of the overflow. All the back wall gear really hides away in the upper left corner now. I ended up choosing the Ushio 14K over the Radium. I won't get as much coral color 'pop' but the look is more natural IMO.
bmullikin1
New member
looks great, might want to turn your metal halide ballast the other way, so if you have a splash over it wont hit the reset or plug.
zachfishman
Active member
Yeah gotta be careful there. Unfortunately there's a plug coming out the opposite side as well, so switching it around wouldn't help. If I fry it its just an excuse to get the Kessil I really want.
MrHarvard
"ship it"
Man you have done a great job over hauling a used tank. Looks really clean and shows what taking your time and doing it right gets you. I know the last guy mentioned it buy i would seriously think about moving that ballast. I can tell you first hand that even when your careful and go slow cleaning a rimless tank always results in water going over the sides. If you really want it there you could buy a med. Size Tupperware (one that is a bit larger than the ballast and cut it in half length wise. Then unscrew the ballast and put the Tupperware lid under the ballast before reattaching it to the stand. Then simply snap the Tupperware back to the lid over the ballast. This should keep the top of the ballast covered and the bottom half would be hanging out the bottom where u cut the Tupperware in half. That should keep you dry and still allow enough airflow to the ballast. You could even paint the tupperware if you wanted to make it look clean. Just a thought hopefully it made sense. Regardless great job on the build keep the pics/updates coming.
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