Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!
- Thread starter TWallace
- Start date
redfishsc
New member
Not died, just brown.
I did lose (this time, and last time I tried Tech M) an octo frogspawn. First it was a pink/orange variety, and this time it was a green one. Both were a single head, so no huge loss.
Otherwise the other varieties of frogspawn I have are doing great. Several SPS are browned out (ORA Green Bird's nest, regular green monti cap). Last time, my hydnophora browned out on me, but not this time for some reason.
I did lose (this time, and last time I tried Tech M) an octo frogspawn. First it was a pink/orange variety, and this time it was a green one. Both were a single head, so no huge loss.
Otherwise the other varieties of frogspawn I have are doing great. Several SPS are browned out (ORA Green Bird's nest, regular green monti cap). Last time, my hydnophora browned out on me, but not this time for some reason.
redfishsc
New member
They'll regain their color, provided they survive (which they should).
My green hydnophora turned a fairly dingy brown/green color during the first Tech M treatment in Sept 09, but this time it's doing fine.
It regained it's color over the next month or so.
Note that your Tech M treatment shouldn't end when they bryopsis is "mostly" gone..... it can come back. It has done it to many people.
I have a few tufts of it that I cannot kill. I'm not sure what will do it, but I do know that it's stuff in areas that don't get a lot of light. The more light it gets, the quicker it dies.
I'm continuing treatment, but at a lower level. Hopefully with water changes this will be fine.
My green hydnophora turned a fairly dingy brown/green color during the first Tech M treatment in Sept 09, but this time it's doing fine.
It regained it's color over the next month or so.
Note that your Tech M treatment shouldn't end when they bryopsis is "mostly" gone..... it can come back. It has done it to many people.
I have a few tufts of it that I cannot kill. I'm not sure what will do it, but I do know that it's stuff in areas that don't get a lot of light. The more light it gets, the quicker it dies.
I'm continuing treatment, but at a lower level. Hopefully with water changes this will be fine.
DLANDINO
D.L. Heritage Rings
Thanks again. My patch first appeared on my T. Maxima shell, and this is where it likely came into my reef from. So, my theory has been that because of the way that clams process and use No3, that there is a higher concentration of the stuff near the cla constantly. This, in my opinion, is fueling the growth.
I am astonished at how quickly Tech M is killing off the bryopsis! I tried EVERYTHING prior to dosing Tech M. My thought was, go natural go natural go natural. It is just algae, deprive it of its fuel and it will die off much like regualr HA and Cyano. But, man, this stuff is stubborn! Thanks again for the tips and help and I will keep the thread up to date with my progress. I am hoping to make short work of this stuff and move on to better days on the reef.
So you say that I should stop treatment when the bryopsis is almost gone, I will try that and hope that it doesn't return.
I am astonished at how quickly Tech M is killing off the bryopsis! I tried EVERYTHING prior to dosing Tech M. My thought was, go natural go natural go natural. It is just algae, deprive it of its fuel and it will die off much like regualr HA and Cyano. But, man, this stuff is stubborn! Thanks again for the tips and help and I will keep the thread up to date with my progress. I am hoping to make short work of this stuff and move on to better days on the reef.
So you say that I should stop treatment when the bryopsis is almost gone, I will try that and hope that it doesn't return.
I've also had huge success with Kent Tech-M on my 95 gallon tank. At that time I still hadn't added any corals and only had 1 fish in there. I raised my Mg about 100 or so a day until I took it to 1800 (though I think 1600 would be enough). I kept it up there for about a month before slowly bringing it down via water changes.
People here are right that you can't let up on this stuff. You have to kill it outright and not let a single strand survive.
People here are right that you can't let up on this stuff. You have to kill it outright and not let a single strand survive.
redfishsc
New member
It IS stubborn. I have almost killed it with low nutrients using very aggressive skimming and high doses of vitamin C powder and vodka, but my corals didn't really like being in such low nutrient system (not to mention all the snot strands the vodka caused).
No no no no no:hammer: --- I said you shouldn't stop.
If you stop when it's no longer visible, it may come back.
I don't have a good procedure for "nailing the coffin" yet, but I suspect it will be something like:
1) Use enough Tech M to raise mag by ~30-50ppm per day, until the bryopsis dies or you stop b/c of coral stress. A week should do it, maybe two. Do 30-40% water change at the end of this week to keep mag from going insane (it's not the active killer anyway).
2) When 90% or more of the bryopsis is gone, cut dosing by half or into 1/3. I'm trying the 1/3 route and dosing every other day now. So far so good, but the last few patches won't die.
3) Water changes are critical. 30% minimum per week. My snails are moving very slow before the water changes, and within a day of the water change, they are back to moving faster. The high magnesium seems to really make them sick.
DLANDINO
D.L. Heritage Rings
Update: 7 days into dosing and 90% of the bryopsis is gone. Again, I am certainly impressed with this magic bullet but the stress caused to my zoas and now my rainbow monti are definitely causing me concern for their survival. I hope they can bounce back once I am done with this mess.
redfishsc
New member
As long as the zoas are only brown, and not closed up or otherwise misbehaving, they should be fine.
I have, right now, some cactus pavona and yellow scroll coral that appears to be bleaching very slowly, but only in some spots (brightly lit spots). Shaded spots dont' appear bleached, even when viewed with a flashlight at night.
I am 100% willing to lose my pavona and scroll coral if I have too. Whatever it takes to kill the crap. I am still seeing some small patches that won't die, in too many places for me to remove the rock and scrub it (not that this would solve it anyhow).
I'm going to do a large (35%) water change today to help with the high mag, but will continue to dose.
Don't hesitate to find a good temporary home with a fellow reefer for your rainbow monti if you are afraid of losing it (as long as it's not contaminated with bryopsis lol).
I have, right now, some cactus pavona and yellow scroll coral that appears to be bleaching very slowly, but only in some spots (brightly lit spots). Shaded spots dont' appear bleached, even when viewed with a flashlight at night.
I am 100% willing to lose my pavona and scroll coral if I have too. Whatever it takes to kill the crap. I am still seeing some small patches that won't die, in too many places for me to remove the rock and scrub it (not that this would solve it anyhow).
I'm going to do a large (35%) water change today to help with the high mag, but will continue to dose.
Don't hesitate to find a good temporary home with a fellow reefer for your rainbow monti if you are afraid of losing it (as long as it's not contaminated with bryopsis lol).
DLANDINO
D.L. Heritage Rings
Hi Redfishsc,
I am glad that you are succeeding in your fight! My rainbow is fully encrusted to a hard to reach rock so I have to let the chips fall where they may. As for my zoa colonies, my eagle eyes, tubbs and lime greens are all open but dull or brown, I have one colony of red with blue mouths that have been closed since i started raising the mg. I am thinking it will not be long before I lose that colony.
My bryopsis patch was contained to my maxima clam shell and one other small patch clear on the other side of the tank from the maxima. I am happy to report that it is 90% receded at this point and what is left isn't looking too hot. I am anxious for the algae to be completely gone and to see a turn around in my coral colors. I can report that my acro and milli corals are weathering the storm just fine, no color shift to report yet. It sees to be the softer corals that are changing.
I am glad that you are succeeding in your fight! My rainbow is fully encrusted to a hard to reach rock so I have to let the chips fall where they may. As for my zoa colonies, my eagle eyes, tubbs and lime greens are all open but dull or brown, I have one colony of red with blue mouths that have been closed since i started raising the mg. I am thinking it will not be long before I lose that colony.
My bryopsis patch was contained to my maxima clam shell and one other small patch clear on the other side of the tank from the maxima. I am happy to report that it is 90% receded at this point and what is left isn't looking too hot. I am anxious for the algae to be completely gone and to see a turn around in my coral colors. I can report that my acro and milli corals are weathering the storm just fine, no color shift to report yet. It sees to be the softer corals that are changing.
redfishsc
New member
I give up.
Getting out the CLOROX and I'm not joking.
Tech M, after (over three weeks) raising my magnesium to around 2400ppm (SLOWLY), did kill most of the bryopsis. Tank looked great.
Then it started growing RIGHT BACK even WHILE I was still dosing Tech M.
So.
I've been fragging out all my corals, and have removed about 1/3 of my rock.
I'm bleaching the rock for a few days. I'll cycle the rock using household ammonia (and Seachem Stability) in buckets.
Once I get about 2/3 of my rockwork removed, bleached/sterilized, and cycled with ammonia (roughly 3-4 weeks time) I will then pull out my coral and remaining rock to a separate tank and my fish into a bucket (not many fish)
I'll bleach the WHOLE TANK SYSTEM for a day or so. Empty, fill with AGED saltwater.
Add in the freshly cycled rockwork and all my coral/animals. The rock will have a bioload capability that's actually more than it was to begin with.
I'll be ONLY putting freshly cycled rock that has been previously bleached.
Any coral that has even a hint of bryopsis will be destroyed (fortunately this is only a couple small zoanthid colonies).
That's bryopsis.
Take this for what it's worth: I will NEVER buy and use live rock again. Only dead rock. It has some serious drawbacks (no biodiversity) but all of them can be overcome in a short time by seeding from healthy tanks.
But NO freaking bryopsis, majano, aiptasias, hydroids, predatory whelks, etc....
Getting out the CLOROX and I'm not joking.
Tech M, after (over three weeks) raising my magnesium to around 2400ppm (SLOWLY), did kill most of the bryopsis. Tank looked great.
Then it started growing RIGHT BACK even WHILE I was still dosing Tech M.
So.
I've been fragging out all my corals, and have removed about 1/3 of my rock.
I'm bleaching the rock for a few days. I'll cycle the rock using household ammonia (and Seachem Stability) in buckets.
Once I get about 2/3 of my rockwork removed, bleached/sterilized, and cycled with ammonia (roughly 3-4 weeks time) I will then pull out my coral and remaining rock to a separate tank and my fish into a bucket (not many fish)
I'll bleach the WHOLE TANK SYSTEM for a day or so. Empty, fill with AGED saltwater.
Add in the freshly cycled rockwork and all my coral/animals. The rock will have a bioload capability that's actually more than it was to begin with.
I'll be ONLY putting freshly cycled rock that has been previously bleached.
Any coral that has even a hint of bryopsis will be destroyed (fortunately this is only a couple small zoanthid colonies).
That's bryopsis.
Take this for what it's worth: I will NEVER buy and use live rock again. Only dead rock. It has some serious drawbacks (no biodiversity) but all of them can be overcome in a short time by seeding from healthy tanks.
But NO freaking bryopsis, majano, aiptasias, hydroids, predatory whelks, etc....
Fr0m brasil !!
Fr0m brasil !!
:spin2:
:spin2:
http://www.blumenau-reef.blogspot.com
Fr0m brasil !!
I also gave up the attempt eleminar the Bryopsida, the most correct is to reboot the aquarium and chlorinate all the same! see my fight on: http://www.blumenau-reef.blogspot.com
:spin2:
:spin2:
http://www.blumenau-reef.blogspot.com
redfishsc
New member
:thumbsup::lmao:
That's one thing that's surely going to work.
Note that I also decided to bleach my stuff because I have some small predatory whelks, a couple majanos that show up every few months (even if I kill them all) and some hydroids. Just too many pests. Bleach kills them all!
That's one thing that's surely going to work.
Note that I also decided to bleach my stuff because I have some small predatory whelks, a couple majanos that show up every few months (even if I kill them all) and some hydroids. Just too many pests. Bleach kills them all!
redfishsc
New member
Excellent. I wish I hadn't wasted $70 on Tech M now that I've had to go to this extreme any-freaking-way.
Rick, did you pull out all your coral? If so, how extreme did you go with fragging them to avoid bryopsis coming in with them? I'm noticing little sprigs of the stuff on some of my zoa frags (it seems to LOVE zoanthids). Those zoas will NOT go into my new system, but I'm wondering how much is there that I can't see in my otherwise 'clean' looking frags.
From Brazil ( II)
From Brazil ( II)
I'm wiped BRYOPIS by BRIOPSIS of each coral .... and putting it in a separate aquarium (observation), I believe that completely reset the nutrients from the water they will disappear altogether, this aquarium'm injecting BALLING + VODKA + Biotype / biodigester, zeroing definitely nutrients from water.
Wfrido:spin2:
http://www.blumenau-reef.blogspot.com
From Brazil ( II)
I'm wiped BRYOPIS by BRIOPSIS of each coral .... and putting it in a separate aquarium (observation), I believe that completely reset the nutrients from the water they will disappear altogether, this aquarium'm injecting BALLING + VODKA + Biotype / biodigester, zeroing definitely nutrients from water.
Wfrido:spin2:
http://www.blumenau-reef.blogspot.com
rick s
Premium Member
No. I was re-doing a bathroom and painted the drywall with a sealer/primer. I had the bathroom fan running so I thought I'd be okay. I wasn't. The fumes got into the water and killed the entire tank. The only things that survived were one dendrophyllia and, the Bryopsis.
I put the dendro in my (new) QT tank for months. I ended up doing a bleaching on its solid "base" just to be sure there was none on it. It's back in my main tank now.
I would be very cautious about putting any of your living things back in after you bleach the system. I would be more comfortable with SPS corals. A few Revive dips over a few weeks should ensure there is nothing on them. Then, cut off the base (again) and mount it on something else. Soft corals on the other hand. . . I think I'd give them to someone, explaining why you're giving them away, or chuck them.
I am now doing what you mentioned above: Trying to never get aiptasia, bubble aglae, bryopsis, any green algae, flatworms, red bugs, asterina stars, ich, pop-eye, etc. again. I've had them all.
Many say it can't be done. I'm giving it my best shot. And if it can't be done, at least I'll know first hand that I really, really tried.
rick s
Premium Member
Be careful here. Stability didn't do for me what I expected it to. It's going to take quite awhile for sterilized rock to develope a bacterial bed. Keep a very close eye on your ammonia when you start putting fish in (both your temporary tank and your main tank).
redfishsc
New member
Thanks for the warning. Hopefully I'll get the rock totally cycled (in buckets) before it ever goes in the tank, but I'm sure the transfer from bucket to tank will kill some of the bacteria. I expect some ammonia jump, but forutnately my fish load is pretty low for 80 gallons total volume.
