goldmaniac
New member
hah Nice!
Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!
- Thread starter TWallace
- Start date
brandon429
Active member
Frickin great I may possibly need to borrow that as an avatar
brad65ford
New member
Spent 7 months fighting bryopsis in my 6g Chi tank. I did everything including H202, Kent Tech M, removed all the sand (went BB), and many many manual removals & water changes.
While all of it helped it just kept coming back no matter what I did. What did work and is still working to this day (you aint going to believe this) was ChemiPure Elite. I started using this stuff in the HOB AquaClear 30 a month ago and it freaking works. Must be the GFO media in the stuff not sure but I don't care at this point.
I wish I could have seen if that was all i needed months ago, well I can't go back in time but I'm happy to see it dyeing/wilting away, almost like it has a disease. Would have never have though I would being saying this but I'm moving forward from my hated enemy aka Bryopsis. Now I just need to get rid of the fussy turf algae which has taken its place and I'll be good to go.
Also I've stopped removing any detritus from the bottom of the tank. Just can't get to it any more with the racks in the way.
While all of it helped it just kept coming back no matter what I did. What did work and is still working to this day (you aint going to believe this) was ChemiPure Elite. I started using this stuff in the HOB AquaClear 30 a month ago and it freaking works. Must be the GFO media in the stuff not sure but I don't care at this point.
I wish I could have seen if that was all i needed months ago, well I can't go back in time but I'm happy to see it dyeing/wilting away, almost like it has a disease. Would have never have though I would being saying this but I'm moving forward from my hated enemy aka Bryopsis. Now I just need to get rid of the fussy turf algae which has taken its place and I'll be good to go.
Also I've stopped removing any detritus from the bottom of the tank. Just can't get to it any more with the racks in the way.
goldmaniac
New member
For me, I brought it up to about 1400-1450 Mg and ran out of Kent M. I started using Brightwell, and by 1500-1550, it just turned pale and blew away in the current.
So, bringing Mg up to about 1550-1600 resulted in negligible (sp?) change in SG. I'd estimate about a point. 1.024 --> 1.025. I vary the SG by a point or two when working on the tank anyway, and that was the only amount of difference that happened (that I saw) during this Mg dosing.
Mg killed all of my bryopsis. It was covering the brightest, most directly lit, points and plateaus, about 40% of the rock. . I still had hair algae that was covering the lower portions of the tank and hair algae was unaffected.
csmfish
New member
Then why was someone (cant remember who) crying about SG increase and thought THAT was the magic bullet? Hmmm, oh well, glad I asked!
Well, i am gonna give it a shot. I had a 90 that was plagued and also ick, so, went hypo and that killed alot of it. All corals that were transfered to the 20L are still growing "something" like crazy. I say hair algae and some say bry, so, one way to find out. Ordered the test kit and the 64oz of kent and will see whats up. Now that my 125 is setup and almost time to fill, need to get the ball rolling. First thing to do is get rid of the "?" algae in the frag tank, then cook the home made rock and go from there.
Wish me luck, lol.
Well, i am gonna give it a shot. I had a 90 that was plagued and also ick, so, went hypo and that killed alot of it. All corals that were transfered to the 20L are still growing "something" like crazy. I say hair algae and some say bry, so, one way to find out. Ordered the test kit and the 64oz of kent and will see whats up. Now that my 125 is setup and almost time to fill, need to get the ball rolling. First thing to do is get rid of the "?" algae in the frag tank, then cook the home made rock and go from there.
Wish me luck, lol.
goldmaniac
New member
Do you do a 4:1 ratio on other corals?
I've been testing with different amounts of FRESH h2o2 in tank water for 5 minute dips. here are my findings so far:
160 mL of H2o2 per gallon: the majority of hair algae falls off within 24 hours, corals are fine, but algae comes back.
120 mL of H2o2 per gallon: the majority of hair algae falls off within48 hours, corals are fine, but algae comes back.
80 mL of h202 per gallon: hair algae seems unaffected. no difference.
I've tested all three of these different ratios on zoas/palys, florida mushrooms, toadstool & kenya tree soft corals, a lobo, and my snails & hermit crabs, all for a period of 5 minutes. All organisms seem fine 24 hours after dipping.
I've been vacuuming the crushed coral substrate for this hair algae, draining the crushed coral, and then putting in an h2o2 solution 5 minute periods while i pick out the hair algae clumps, and then I return the crushed coral back into the tank.
Last night i upped the ratio and when i vacuumed the substrate, i added a 3:1 ratio (3 parts salt water, 1 part h2o2) for 5 minutes and then returned the crushed coral to the tank. I'm wondering what strength is too strong for hermit crabs, snails, and corals.
goldmaniac
New member
double post
Last edited:
brandon429
Active member
gold those are interesting ratio tests, it makes me wonder because Reefmiser who made the first post on the nano-reef.com peroxide thread wiped clean and sustained his whole tank off a few rounds of 1 ml per 10 gallons, and you are getting algae regrowth with 100x that in a gallon whoa
goldmaniac
New member
yeah, within 24 or 48 hours, the hair turns pale and just blows off in the current, but it has come back. I'm looking to find the minimal level that kills off hair permanently but doesn't do damage to corals or inverts. I haven't found that ratio yet.
It's somewhere between 120 ml h2o2 per gallon of sea water and a 50/50 ratio.
1 gallon of water = 4546 mL of water, so...
120 mL h2o2 per gallon is a 1:37 ratio, so i still have some work to do narrowing down the right ratio. I am most concerned with my snails - i really need to be able to zap hair algae in substrate without killing the cerith and asternia and nassarius snails that are in the substrate that I vacuum out. it's TOO labor intensive to pick them out, and I don't want to kill them by bleaching the substrate to kill the hair algae.
It's somewhere between 120 ml h2o2 per gallon of sea water and a 50/50 ratio.
1 gallon of water = 4546 mL of water, so...
120 mL h2o2 per gallon is a 1:37 ratio, so i still have some work to do narrowing down the right ratio. I am most concerned with my snails - i really need to be able to zap hair algae in substrate without killing the cerith and asternia and nassarius snails that are in the substrate that I vacuum out. it's TOO labor intensive to pick them out, and I don't want to kill them by bleaching the substrate to kill the hair algae.
goldmaniac
New member
.. and i truly doubt that's other ratio you just quoted is right - 1 mL h2o2 per 10 gallons of tank water? so.. for my 120 gallon tank, with a 50 gallon refugium, that would mean 18 mL of h2o2 poured into the tank would wipe the tank clean? I can confirm that I've added more than that by simply trying to spot-dose hair algae with a 10 mL syringe in the display tank. I added 60 mL of straight h2o2 by squirting it onto rock one night, and nothing happened, not even to the hair that i was spot-treating.
DopeCantWin
Active member
I've raised my Mg to 1700-1800. It's been only a day or so. My snails are definitely not happy critters. I'm thinking I will also turn off the lights in the display and not feed to speed it up. Keep lights on in the fuge with Cheato. I'll also keep my night light LEDs on. Any thoughts?
brandon429
Active member
Gold I had missed that last post you wrote, it wasn't a one time dose people are doing it daily or 3x weekly and I agree it may need more, that's just a starting dose we know is tolerant to the system. On a r 2 r post they did as high as 4 ml per ten that's closer to what you tried, full tank dosing is still experimental.
Has Tech M changed it's ingredients at all? Has correctly following the recommended treatment regimen not worked for anyone else?
My Tech M bottle lists the ingredients as Deionized water, Magnesium Chloride, and Magnesium Sulfate, and nothing else. But it doesn't seem to be having any visible effect on my Bryposis yet over three days!?
I'm treating my 34 gallon cube with Kent Tech M right now. It's a new tank, but my live rock came with Bryopsis, and I've had an explosion of it while fishless cycling. I just added an entire 476 ml bottle, which estimating my water volume at 30 gallons should have raised my Mg by 290 ppm. (I've read that you should add enough Tech M to raise your Mg level by 300, regardless of the starting point). And I took out my carbon and phosphate remover as well.
That brought my Mg to about 1500, which is perhaps on the low side of what is recommended for this treatment, so I presumably should immediately order another bottle of Tech M and double the dosing? And I do consistently hear that it is some other ingredient in the Tech M which is the active ingredient to eradicate Bryopsis, not the Mg itself. Nevertheless I subsequently threw in a cupful of Epsom Salt into the tank as well, just on the off-chance it might help. I don't have other macro life in the tank right now so I'm not worried about overdoing the treatment but would like to get this taken care of for good beforehand.
In any case, the Kent Tech M doesn't seem to have made any difference yet... Please advise!
My Tech M bottle lists the ingredients as Deionized water, Magnesium Chloride, and Magnesium Sulfate, and nothing else. But it doesn't seem to be having any visible effect on my Bryposis yet over three days!?
I'm treating my 34 gallon cube with Kent Tech M right now. It's a new tank, but my live rock came with Bryopsis, and I've had an explosion of it while fishless cycling. I just added an entire 476 ml bottle, which estimating my water volume at 30 gallons should have raised my Mg by 290 ppm. (I've read that you should add enough Tech M to raise your Mg level by 300, regardless of the starting point). And I took out my carbon and phosphate remover as well.
That brought my Mg to about 1500, which is perhaps on the low side of what is recommended for this treatment, so I presumably should immediately order another bottle of Tech M and double the dosing? And I do consistently hear that it is some other ingredient in the Tech M which is the active ingredient to eradicate Bryopsis, not the Mg itself. Nevertheless I subsequently threw in a cupful of Epsom Salt into the tank as well, just on the off-chance it might help. I don't have other macro life in the tank right now so I'm not worried about overdoing the treatment but would like to get this taken care of for good beforehand.
In any case, the Kent Tech M doesn't seem to have made any difference yet... Please advise!
Good God, just finished reading this entire post:bounce2:. I have been dealing with this crap for months after dealing with hair algae and previously dealing with bubble algae. Did the peroxide dips and that helped a little but the constant removal of frags and rocks has taken a toll on some corals. I have been using algae fix for about 2 weeks now, it's helping a little. I will be trying the tech m soon. I do randy's 2 part with the mag, I have noticed the thick red slime algae popping up everywhere now.:hmm6::hmm6::hmm6: I hope to add the tech m, get the bryopsis under control and then start back with the gfo and fight the nutrient battle all over. This WILL be my last stand. I will find a new home for my corals then its:uzi: to my 90 gal and this hobby
brandon429
Active member
I hope you beat it man some tanks are truly hard to cure! Have you assessed you rock loading of po4 yet.
That can be a problem as no water borne treatment will fix it if your algae gets fuel from up underneath.
you take out a test rock and soak it in distilled water that has been confirmed free of po4
if it registers po4 in a weeks time, voila!
time to take down the whole tank and acid etch the rock
That can be a problem as no water borne treatment will fix it if your algae gets fuel from up underneath.
you take out a test rock and soak it in distilled water that has been confirmed free of po4
if it registers po4 in a weeks time, voila!
time to take down the whole tank and acid etch the rock
rayn
New member
Not to be debbi downer or anything...but why not take it slow? Here is my point.
I had HA bad in my 120. Vodka dosing, water changes, gfo. Nothing really worked. Then one day the wife and l decide to relocate the tank in our house. Remove everything, drain tank, set up tank, half new water. Point is that took care of it in itself. I havent had a touch of algae since, going on 6 months now.
Now not everyone wants to or can move their tank, but why not slow down and do a large major water change, lower the light times, and wait. Sometimes that does more good then throwimg a bunch of chemicals at it.
I had HA bad in my 120. Vodka dosing, water changes, gfo. Nothing really worked. Then one day the wife and l decide to relocate the tank in our house. Remove everything, drain tank, set up tank, half new water. Point is that took care of it in itself. I havent had a touch of algae since, going on 6 months now.
Now not everyone wants to or can move their tank, but why not slow down and do a large major water change, lower the light times, and wait. Sometimes that does more good then throwimg a bunch of chemicals at it.
Trust me, it sounds like I'm rushing it, but that is not the case. Each try has taken about 2 months each. I'm thinking it's locked up in the rock, but how does that happen? I have had the rock for 7 years, is it old tank syndrome? With 2 kids in sports and 1 in daycare, I cannot afford to start over. My wife just doesnt care about the hobby unlike many other wives in this hobby:deadhorse: If i can get it to a manageable level, then it's not a problem:headwally:it will just be a weekly chore:beer:
rayn
New member
Sorry, it came across wrong. I didnt mean to say you were rushing anything. I just tried to state what my issue was and what happened to work for my tank.
When was the last time you just added a rock? I have been told that one decent sized piece should be changed out yearly to keep things kickin. Just a thought.
Unless you had a huge spike of something l would hope it wasnt locked up in 7 year old rock either.
When was the last time you just added a rock? I have been told that one decent sized piece should be changed out yearly to keep things kickin. Just a thought.
Unless you had a huge spike of something l would hope it wasnt locked up in 7 year old rock either.
MGM_
New member
Just finished Tech M treatment. Did nothing but add tech M to my tank over course of 5 days. Brought MG from 1150 to 1500. 4 days after measuring 1500 all bryopsis has disappeared. Did not change lighting, dosing etc. Only added the tech M and today doing a 20% water change and vacuum of the sand. Keeping fingers crossed. I dosed 1/2 tech M in the AM and 1/2 at night into overflow section of my sump.
