Finally--new 224gal project begins!!!

L

labragg1

New member
Well, after months of research, reading, and planning, I'm finally starting to get things under way. I've been on the phone with Scott (Aquatic Systems Design) and I think we've finally landed on a final tank design. Awesome guy to deal with, by the way!!!
I'm posting some blueprints to see what everyone thinks. Please feel free to post any suggestions or questions as I want all the input I can get.

Here are a couple blueprint pics.

60x36x24+iso+2.jpg


60x36x24+top+down+jpg.jpg


60x36x24+end+of.jpg
 
Tank will be 60Lx36Wx24H. I originally wanted a 48" cube, but it ended not being too ideal for my living room layout--so I ended up with this design--at least it will be 3' wide.
The tank will be in a island format as you can see in the blueprints with 3 viewing sides. It will serve as a room divider between my dining room and living room.
Hopefully the tank will be ready in a couple weeks!!!

Here is a list of equipment I will be using:

75gal sump (glass)
Filter socks (100m) for sump inlet
2x--350w WonPro heaters (titanium)
Quiet One 3000 for sump return
Reef Octopus NW-200 (needlewheel) skimmer (hopefully will be upgrading to one of Scott's big recirc skimmers later)
2x--400W MH's. These will be run on 400w Coralvue electronic ballasts with Hamilton 14k bulbs--I loved the color when I was running 250w mh's.
2x--Lumenarc 3 reflectors with the A/C add-on option.
Sequence Hammerhead for the CL.
OceansMotions 4-way for the CL.

Water Movement:
As you can see from the blueprints, there will be 8 returns in the bottom of the tank for the CL. This is what Paul at OM recommended as he said it would really put the OM at it's full potential. His recommendation was that I use 90 degree elbows and fire them forward but at an angle so they would be hitting the side glass. Then use 45 degree elbows on the last set of returns towards the front of the tank (36" section) and fire them up straight at the glass. He said that this would move the water along the bottom of the tank towards the front and then it would deflect it up towards the surface and back down--thus creating a nice revolving water action and will help keep any junk on the bottom from settling. He also said that it shouldn't cause any problems with the sand bed I plan on running.
The one whole in the top of the tank towards the back(where the overflow is) will be for the sump return outlet.
My whole design for this tank is that I don't like anything visible cluttering up the landscape. With the returns being in bottom, I will be able to cover them up with rockwork. THe only thing you may see is the sump return coming through the top eurobrace in the very back of the tank.

Lighting

My concept with the lighting was geared around power efficiency and and cost of upkeep. I also wanted nice even coverage over the whole tank.
I originally was going to go with 4 250w mh's, but the economical side of it was not feasible as replacing 4 bulbs a year not be cost effective. This led me to go with just 2 400's as I new they would have plenty of intensity to penetrate even to the bottom. As far as coverage, I decided to bite the bullet and go with LA3's as everybody that has them raves about them. I talked to Pacific Garden Supply (great people) and they assured me that two of LA3's would cover the tank without any problem whatsoever. These reflectors also will give me the ability to raise and lower the lights to my own tastes.
My one concern as anyone with MH's will attest to--was heat. After a lot of research I found that the LA3's had an A/C option. Basically it added the glass cover and two vented ports to the reflectors. Basically the vents attach to 4" ducting. Then I will use a 4" duct fan for air movement. The glass covers create a sealed reflector. Once the duct fan is activated, the people at PGS said that basically almost every bit of heat will be immediately sucked out of the reflector. Many people have testified that there was literally no heat transfer to the aquarium, and they could even lower the lights lower then before. As I am trying to avoid a chiller--I felt that the extra A/C option would be well worth the investment.
The reflectors are the last peace of equipment that I am waiting to arrive, so I will be doing some testing later this week with the ducting and fans.
I'll try to post some pics if anybodies interested.
 
Sump

For now I was going to run the Quiet One 3000 (780gph) that I already have and see how well it does. I like the concept of running fairly low-flow through the sump to avoid microbubble problems and give the skimmer and heaters plenty of contact time with water. I also feel that with the Hammerhead on the CL I will have all the flow I will need!!!
The two drains holes you see in the overflow box are basically for redundency--the second will have a standpipe a little higher than the other in case the main one clogs--then the second will take over.
I also was thinking about incorporating a fuge section in the sump since I think I will have the space--but haven't yet decided how to do that. Any thoughts on that?

Landscaping

I have always loved the look of tanks like the OregonReef.com and others. So I plan on incorporating the valley into the scheme. If you look at the blueprints you will notice the top cross-brace in the middle of the tank. That will be where I will have the valley. I'm planning on building up rockwork towards the front and back--having both tapering down to a valley in the middle. I think this will be cool as I will be able to see through the valley from my living room into my dining room. It will also help because it will make the rockwork land right under the open sections of the top of the tank--right where the mh's will be.
I also like this scheme because I like the to have some open space for tangs, etc to swim and not be too obstructed. It will also give me plenty of room to place some things on the bottom sand bed--clams, etc.
I plan on having a mixed reef with mostly lps, some softies, and some sps--and probably an anemone, etc.

Please post any suggestions as I'm very open to other opinions. I also have until Friday to change any tank designs--and then Scott will get started on it.
 
Well, since the tank will probably go into production this weekend, I though I'd better get started on a stand. My last pieces of equipment are being delivered today--LAIII's!!!! --so I'm going to try to do some testing in the next few days with the A/C option.
Every thing else is pretty much sitting in my garage.

As far as the stand goes--this will be my first time building a stand for an acrylic tank--so any recommendations would be appreciated. I know per Scott that it will need multiple cross-braces to prevent the bottom from bowing.
Being an island format, I want to implement doors on three sides so that I can just slide the sump in and out from the end (36" section). Here's what I was thinking for the main frame-- bolt 2x6's together for the corner and center postes--this will mean I will have two large doors on each side (60" sections) and one large door on the end (36" section)
Then bolt some 2x4's together for the top frame and run some more 2x4's for cross-bracing. Once that is done the I was going to put a sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on the top.

Will that be enough to hold this tank without any worries?
 
Let me know how the LAIIIs work out. I'm planning on using 3 over a 96" x 36" x 24" when I move.
 
No problem. I plan on posting some pics when I start doing some testing. The LAIII's were delivered by UPS this afternoon, so I can't wait to give them a test run!!!
 
I'm pretty sure that the builder said he would be using 1/2" for all the sides and 3/4" for the bottom. The 1/2" material will work great as the tank will be eurobraced. If I had gone with an open top (no bracing) I think he said that I would have to go with minimum of 3/4" and maybe even 1". HTH
 
Well, I made some progress this past weekend. Got the frame for the stand built, now I just need to seal and paint the inside and then start skinning the outside.

Also did some testing on the LAIII's that I just received. PGS did a great job with packing them and they arrived safe and sound.
First I will say the I love the adjustable mogul sockets that they include with these reflectors. It's nice to be able to adjust the bulb depth so it is centered in the reflector.
I also am really impressed so far with the A/C option. So far I definitely feel that it is more than worth the extra $.
I also think that the glass cover that comes with the A/C option will be nice as I won't have to clean my bulbs all the time and risk breaking them.

Note:--I'm using 400w mh's with 14k Hamilton bulbs.

Without any fans running and just the reflector with glass shield--I was surprised that they didn't get hotter than what they did. Of course, the glass cover would burn my hand if I got it too close, but still not as bad as I was expecting--although I still feel that they would raise the tank temp at least several degrees without any cooling.

With the $25 in-line fan and some rigid ducting attached--:bounce1: it's nice and cool. I was even able to place my hand directly on the glass cover without getting scalded. Of course, it was hot, but not enough to burn me. I'm very impressed and think this will be an awesome setup. I could really feel the hot air being sucked out of the reflector.
I will be using an in-line fan on each of the two reflectors as I don't feel that only one of them would be sufficient airflow for two reflectors, but it still will be very affordable. The in-line fans are fairly quiet, but I'm thinking about trying a few different things to get them even quieter. I will also put them on timers to only come on when the Mh's do.

One thing for anyone buying these reflectors with the glass shield--be very careful when sliding the glass cover in place--the sides of the reflector scrach very easily. :mad2:
Fortunately the scratches are low enough on the sides that you can't see them and they won't effect any performance.
I was definitely more careful on the second one. ;)

Overall--these things are freakin' bright!!!!!! One of them lit up my whole garage. :hmm4:
I raised and lowered one of them and they definitely cover a huge area. I definitely feel that 2 of these units will more than cover my 60x36 tank.

jsweir--I feel that 3 of these units will be more than plenty for your 96" tank.

I also feel that the A/C option gives even more capability as you can lower the units as low as you want without having as much of a heat problem.


I will have some pics of both the stand and LAIII's up later tonight!!! Hopefully that will give everyone a better idea of how things are coming along. :)
 
Sounds good so far - I wonder how much par is lost by using the glass shields. I have them on my DEs, but I haven't seen any info on par loss of SEs.
 
jsweir--from what I've read the par loss is pretty minimal. To me having the added protection and ease of cleaning is more than worth it, but that was one of the reasons I went ahead and bought 400's. I wanted to be sure I had plenty of intensity regardless of the glass or how high I mounted them.
 
Skywalker,
Your planned tank is very close to what I'm planning as well. Any clue as to the weight of your tank. Trying to determine how difficult it will be able to get it into our basement.
My plan is to go with a acrylic tank from Envision out West, exterior overflow plus integrated boxes for 2 or 3 Tunze stream pumps. That way the inside of the tank is very clean.

How are you planning on phasing your photo period with only two MH's? I had planned to go with 3 250's as well but now I'm rethinking. If I had the 2 400's I always could add another. I don't believe 4 LAIII will fit in my hood. I'll keep an eye out on this thread and update you with my plans as well.
 
finrod2--if I remember correctly Scott at Aquatic Systems Design said that the tank would weigh approximately 180 to 200 pounds. I'm just going off of memory of a conversation from about a month ago, so don't quote me on that. I'll find out for sure later tonight as I will be talking to Scott about the final locations for the returns.
He is starting on the tank and cutting the panels tonight!!!!!
Hopefully it will be ready sometime next week. Woohooo!!!

As far as lighting--after testing the LA3's with the 400's, I definitely believe that I would have been fine with 250's, but I wanted intesity all the way to the sand bed, so that was my thinking--the other reason was that I was only going with two lights and the glass shields would have at least a small effect on par.
I figured since I was buying new equipment--better to buy too much than too little:)
Anyway, I also didn't want to add the cost and maintenance of t5's or vho's--especially the added electrical cost. Having to replace only 2 bulbs is going to be nice and very affordable!!! I also like as little clutter in the canopy as possible.

My lighting schedule will be pretty simple--since my tank is a peninsula design--I will have the first MH (one towards the front) kick on say around 11:00a.m. and off at 8:00p.m. Then the second MH will kick on around 12:00 p.m. and turn off around 7:00

Not perfect, I know, but it should work fine. Basically with only one of the mh's on in the morning and at night--the most intensity will occur during the afternoon period when the second mh kicks on. At least this is somewhat closer to a reef that just all the lights kicking on and off at once.

IMO--two LAIII's more than cover this size of tank--especially with 400's. Even just one of them will light up the whole tank--just not as intense in some areas. If I was going to go with more than two lights--I would probably stick with 250's just because of the lower power consumption, but that's really up to you. I found that the cost of bulbs is almost identical between 250's and 400's, so the power consumption and heat is usually the deciding factor--with the added A/C option, though, heat is not a factor.
I also went with 400's based on the fact that I wanted to be able to have them raised higher above the tank that I did my previous 250's. HTH

I'll keep you posted as well on progress.
 
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Thanks--i'm debating now what to pain/seal it with. I was looking at that epoxy based stuff--but I'm not sure if it's really worth the extra $.
Any thoughts on what's best to use?
 
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