(First Reef Tank Ever) **** 600gal Display **** 1300gal System

[Goodwin9]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9954020#post9954020 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
thanks Jonathan, i will also have them secure down from the top just to be on the safe side too since the last thing i need is send my livestock to get executed :lol: :smokin: . i will add 3 more MH pendents in the front and the dimensions i have to work with is 22"L x 12"W so Lumenarc will be out. i will need to research some more pendents. my original plan was to have 6 400 watts MH and addtional VHO down the middle for supplement. will this be to much lighting since tank will mainly sps and 30lbs clam would also be nice directly in the front :mixed:?

Lumen Max 2's would fit your need. They are 15L X 11.5W. I have them on my tank and they work great!

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9954369#post9954369 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
how deep and what are the length and width again?

I would suggest getting to know other reefs of the same dimensions and seeing what they are using and how they look. Sanjay's site may be of help too. Steve Weast's tank is 30" and he uses 400W and mine is 35" and I use 1000W, but mine are on movers. It seems to be playing out though that mine are too bright for most non-SPS corals as I have had trouble keeping LPS and softies. Even ricordia have a tough time and I have yet to be able to keep them alive.

tank 96"L x 48"W x 30"H
opening 33" x 21" on each end & 38" x 21" middle
here is the original plan from the beginning and i taught i could get away with 3 LM3 but guess not. yeah i have checked out steve's setup for awhile now and if you didn't know i try to use pretty much the same equipment :rollface: i guess i will probably upgrade to 850gal or why not 1000gal

 

[jnarowe]

400W should be OK based on Steve's success, but don't forget he has 12 of them over a 5' x 8' tank.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9954379#post9954379 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
Lumen Max 2's would fit your need. They are 15L X 11.5W. I have them on my tank and they work great!

thanks, hows the spread on those reflectors. my whole idea was to create white to blue effect going from the front to rear and being able to stack my corals anyway i want them.

 

[Goodwin9]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9954912#post9954912 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
thanks, hows the spread on those reflectors. my whole idea was to create white to blue effect going from the front to rear and being able to stack my corals anyway i want them.

They are supposed to be 1 foot on each side according to Sun Light Supply. I would assume that would depend a little on how far they are above the water line.

 

[cbui2]

mine mounted 5" above water line for my MH reflectors

 

[jnarowe]

that's tight. should be plenty of light as long as you have no suicidal fish!

 

[Goodwin9]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9955083#post9955083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
mine mounted 5" above water line for my MH reflectors

That seems pretty close to the water IMO. Temperature of the glass on my MH's is over 250 degrees. Temp of euro bracing on my tank is 95 with MH's 10" above water line. MH's are above the openings as in your tank.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9955204#post9955204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
that's tight. should be plenty of light as long as you have no suicidal fish!

I will be installing protective nets since all my livestock will be in federal custody hehe also some of the wrasse will be trying to commit suicide too. its gonna to be like a circus when i get done:jester: :spin2:.

 

[jnarowe]

his point is good though...especially with acrylic, having the lamps near it causes crazing/distress etc. I have a 1.5" PVC pipe going from my fuge and down into the tank. The lamp on that end passes very close to the pipe, and it is blackened from the heat.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9955274#post9955274 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
That seems pretty close to the water IMO. Temperature of the glass on my MH's is over 250 degrees. Temp of euro bracing on my tank is 95 with MH's 10" above water line. MH's are above the openings as in your tank.

all of MH lighting will be channeled down with thin aluminum plates avoiding to hit the top eurobrace and risk damaging them as I seen some happened here on RC already and end up having to build steel angle line to brace the tank again. also by doing the aluminum plates will be able to control the light reflectivity better. I am trying to use everyone's mistake to better my system and sorry I have to put it that way. I will also be installing fan system for MH, but haven't yet decided on how I will be accomplishing that just yet. my plan was to have all the lighting and pumps on to test all the temps just to see how hot it gets. my fish room has 6" foam insulation at the roof line also fiberglass insulation was also done at the time when I purchased the house and kenmore 12,000btu window unit thus keeping my fish room at 76deg at all time and the only thing left to do is change out my garage door to fully insulated model. my fish room is only (30x20) 600sq feet and making easy to maintain my temps during the summer. I corrected all these problems last summer when it was so hot not just for garage but the whole entire house was done with foam insulation which really work out great, keeping the attic at 85-87deg year round. saving energy from central ac and not working them as hard.

 

[Goodwin9]

On a different note, have you plumbed up your Deltec corner? If so, pictures would be nice. We haven't seen many plumbing updates lately......

 

[jnarowe]

all of MH lighting will be channeled down with thin aluminum plates avoiding to hit the top eurobrace and risk damaging them as I seen some happened here on RC

The issue is not merely "hitting" the top of the eurobracing, but the radiant heat ruining the acrylic. You must be very careful about this. I blow air between my lamps and the tank for this reason.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9955617#post9955617 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
On a different note, have you plumbed up your Deltec corner? If so, pictures would be nice. We haven't seen many plumbing updates lately......

all the plumbing for system is completely done except for deltec kalk reactor. i sent back the FR1016 back and upgraded to FR1020 which has about 14liter capacity. i will take more pics when the rest of chiller plumbing gets done. after lighting and chiller i will start building my QT tanks and minor plumbing will have to be done too.


this is a perfect for what i am looking for my eurobrace.
any feedbacks on these
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/produ...538A4E0815D55340192755EEE52F9&c=23&kys=&pgi=1

here are some pics just in case you miss them

dont forget this one, hehe

i also removed the top piece of the canopy to have better air flow going in and out, plus it was also heavy making it harder for me to move back and forth. my canopy slides out like a champ now losing some weight.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9955832#post9955832 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
The issue is not merely "hitting" the top of the eurobracing, but the radiant heat ruining the acrylic. You must be very careful about this. I blow air between my lamps and the tank for this reason.

if that's the case could I glue some aluminum angles and plates on there to covered the the entire brace avoiding heat stress, also I will installed more than enough fans to keep any heat from building around my eurobrace areas. have you ever seen aluminum covered braces? :smokin: :mixed:

i always thought that having the fixtures up so high give them a chance to hit the acrylic toward the end of the beam.

 

[Goodwin9]

I agree with jnarowe, the heat radiates out from the fixtures and heats up everything in it's path. My fitures are 8" above the bracing level and temp on bracing is 90 degrees plus. That temp won't effect the acrylic. I wouldn't cover the bracing as you will have dead spots in the tank. What is the distance from the side of the fixtures to your euro bracing?

 

[Elite]

so how much $$ have you spent on plumbing so far??

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9956258#post9956258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
I agree with jnarowe, the heat radiates out from the fixtures and heats up everything in it's path. My fitures are 8" above the bracing level and temp on bracing is 90 degrees plus. That temp won't effect the acrylic. I wouldn't cover the bracing as you will have dead spots in the tank. What is the distance from the side of the fixtures to your euro bracing?

my eurobraces are 33"x21", LM3 footprints are 19.5"x 19.5" so maybe 1" from left to right, but from the bottom of the LM3 to the top of eurobrace is 5" so covering the eurobrace shouldn't make a difference I don't think so. I thought maybe with the aluminum plates that it will take all the heat issue out of play. the plate will be channeled all the way down toward the top of eurobrace making the gap of 1" or so showing. I can't channeled all the way down to the top of eurobrace since slides are use and would block it from sliding out. i guess i will have to test the light to see if theres that much light can shine through 1"opening at the bottom of aluminum plates.

 

[cbui2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9956352#post9956352 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elite
so how much $$ have you spent on plumbing so far??

not enough:lol:

 

[Goodwin9]

Here is a shot of my lighting, the back coralife fixture has a 250 W MH directly above the euro bracing, about 5". I just measured the temperature of the acrylic and it is 115 degrees. Hasn't caused a problem.