(First Reef Tank Ever) **** 600gal Display **** 1300gal System

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ok finished LM3 rack and additional modifications was added to secure all fixtures. 1st 1.5" x 1/8" thick aluminum angle was the main support to hold LM3 in place. 2nd 2x4 was added to top, back and sides to support the entire light canopy making it slides so much easier since the 3/4" plywood was removed due to any heat build up therefore making it lighter. 3rd 1" x 1/8" thick aluminum angle and 1x2 white pine was added to support the LM3 from moving no more than 1/8" either way so MH fixtures would not fall down while sliding rack is in motion. 4th LM3 will also be secure from the top just in case fixtures do ever fall down and hopefully it will not get that far.
I have orderd 3 PFO Illuminator Hood (21"L x 11.5"W x 5.5"H), 3 PFO 400w HQI Single Ballast and 3 20k Radium for the front. this should covered the spread toward the beginning of tank.
here are some pic's updates
5-18.jpg

5-18a.jpg

5-18b.jpg

5-18f.jpg
 
ok here are some more updates that I just completed. 2x4 and 3/4" plywood treated w/poly was constructed to finished the shelves for total of 6 PFO HQI Single 400w and 2 IC 660.

5-22.jpg

5-22a.jpg


Tradewind 1.5HP 18,000BTU also made it here. I will begin forming the area needed to be done then concrete can be poured and the rest of plumbing can be done this weekend. after this i will be starting on my QT's setup which should only take couple days to build the stand then i will finally start making ro water.

5-23a.jpg

5-23.jpg


the vho's on each end will not be installed just the middle.
3 LM3 w/20k radium (rear), 3 reef optix v w/14k hamilton (front), and 8 36" URI super atinics space between the LM3 and reef optix v.

topview.jpg
 
Whoa Bart...those ballasts are going to get really hot being that closed in. Are you running a fan over those?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9999771#post9999771 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Whoa Bart...those ballasts are going to get really hot being that closed in. Are you running a fan over those?
Click to expand...

thanks, but its not going to be closed in. the back, side and front are all wide open. i have about 3" gap top and bottom and additional fans will be installed if needed. i agree that the ballast got very hot after burning them 30hrs straight, but these are just shelves and i don't intend on closing them in. also keep in mind that my garage temp is 73deg all day too.
 
I realize they won't be closed in, but I really don't think that is enough air around them to let them cool properly, especially with them side-by-side. Check with the manufacturer's install specs., but I would not run them in that configuration without cooling fans. Even with fans, the hot air between the ballasts will hang IMO.

I am not totally certain of what negative impact it will have but as I understand it, ballasts need to cool or they lose efficiency and output. My ballasts are nowhere near each other and they still have hot air zones around them.

Edit: And it also looks like the cord are touching the ballast to the left and this could be dangerous too. Those cases get very hot and you could damage the cord. I write this from personal experience BTW, as I have had one melt and short causing a small smoldering fire.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9999956#post9999956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
Bart..Can you post a picture of your chiller when you get it uncrated? Thanks!
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no problem, unit is still at my shop and waiting for my friend's tow truck to pick it up and bring it back to my house. i did removed the top to have a sneak peak and let me say this thing is a beast and just about the same size like my house unit. also Hal at Tradewind chillers stated the unit will have total draw of 5.6 amps. i am also impressed on how the unit was crated, packed carefully all around with 2x4 and securely mounted down with no movement.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10000434#post10000434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
I realize they won't be closed in, but I really don't think that is enough air around them to let them cool properly, especially with them side-by-side. Check with the manufacturer's install specs., but I would not run them in that configuration without cooling fans. Even with fans, the hot air between the ballasts will hang IMO.

I am not totally certain of what negative impact it will have but as I understand it, ballasts need to cool or they lose efficiency and output. My ballasts are nowhere near each other and they still have hot air zones around them.

Edit: And it also looks like the cord are touching the ballast to the left and this could be dangerous too. Those cases get very hot and you could damage the cord. I write this from personal experience BTW, as I have had one melt and short causing a small smoldering fire.
Click to expand...

thanks, i just placed them up there for right now and have a lot of room to move them left to right (37"L x 20"W). if they get really hot and also i will check into manuf. specs, but push come to shove my central air unit has additional outlets plumb in the attic already so i will end up using that to cool the entire lighting system including the ballast and fixtures. not only that i can easily plumb a/c vents directly above my tank and the ballast area so my chiller wouldn't be working so hard too which was another plan of mine.
 
Bart, that will only work when the A/C is actually running. When the house is at the comfort level you've set, it will shut off even though the tank lights and ballasts will continue to put off more heat until they cycle off again.

You also need to keep in mind that the humid air can flow backwards through your a/c ducts and damage the coils of your home central unit. It would be good if you had dampers in the ductwork to close off when the flow of cool air is off to protect against that erosion.
 
One other thing about the rack that holds the ballasts.. I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but IIRC code requires there to be 3' clearance in front and at least off to one side of an electrical panel. I would check your local building codes though to see if they are more strict than that. I just wanted to mention that before you got to far along, if that applied.

Love the lighting rack, it is looking great :). I may have missed it earlier on in the thread, but why did you go with LM3s instead of the more efficient LAIIIs ? Normally I see people go with the LMs because they can get them with the outter shell, and don't have to enclose them in a canopy like the LAs. I was just curious :), great looking setup :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10000728#post10000728 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Bart, that will only work when the A/C is actually running. When the house is at the comfort level you've set, it will shut off even though the tank lights and ballasts will continue to put off more heat until they cycle off again.

You also need to keep in mind that the humid air can flow backwards through your a/c ducts and damage the coils of your home central unit. It would be good if you had dampers in the ductwork to close off when the flow of cool air is off to protect against that erosion.
Click to expand...

thanks melev, i will look into that .
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10000754#post10000754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
One other thing about the rack that holds the ballasts.. I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but IIRC code requires there to be 3' clearance in front and at least off to one side of an electrical panel. I would check your local building codes though to see if they are more strict than that. I just wanted to mention that before you got to far along, if that applied.

Love the lighting rack, it is looking great :). I may have missed it earlier on in the thread, but why did you go with LM3s instead of the more efficient LAIIIs ? Normally I see people go with the LMs because they can get them with the outter shell, and don't have to enclose them in a canopy like the LAs. I was just curious :), great looking setup :)
Click to expand...

sorry these are lumenarc 3 pendants i always get them mixed up, also will check into codes. will ask my friend which is licensed contractor, thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10001055#post10001055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
sorry these are lumenarc 3 pendants i always get them mixed up
Click to expand...

Guess I am just biased since we live near PGS out here and I have stopped by to chat lighting with them before. They are a great bunch of guys. I also am biased against LMs since they are built off of a stolen patent.. but let's not drg politics into this and get off track for your thread :). I am glad that you went with the LAIIIs, they are a great refelctor :) If only I could keep ours clean :D
 
What do these initials stand for? I thought we were talking about Luminarc IIIs the entire time. What are LM3?
 
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