Looking for some feedback on this one!
I came home from work 2 days ago to see that all of my fish except for the three chromis were not visible and that many of my corals (namely xenia, zoas and montis) had very little to no PE. The Xenia in particular were very shriveled up even more than they do normally at nighttime. Many of my acros has reduced PE as well. All snails, crabs and stars appeared to be fine.
The water looked very slightly hazy. I quickly checked parameters on the Profilux controller and saw pH, Conductivity (salinity inferred) and temp were all stable. I get regular emails from the controller (every 4 hours) and I had noticed earlier in the day that ORP was notably low. It usually ranges between 330 and 375mv, but was down around 250mv or so. I went back and noted that it started sometime between 4:30 PM and 8:30 PM the day prior as I saw around 335mv on the 4:30 PM email and 265mv on the 8:30 PM email. So I started thinking about what I had done that Sunday afternoon"¦
As part of my weekly maintenance routine, I spent Sunday doing a small ~10% water change with freshly mixed RO/DI and Reef Crystals brought up to the same spec gravity (checked with lab grade glass hydrometer) and temp as the display as I always do. I also changed out the two filter socks for some that I had previously washed in vinegar in the washing machine (been doing this weekly for years and I periodically replaced them with new socks from BRS).
Aside from that, I had siphoned off detritus and nuisance algae that I picked off rockwork and scraped off the back wall of the tank. I do this every week but I will note that it has been a good month or so since I scraped the back wall of the tank"¦ but not sure why it would matter. All of the siphoned off material goes direct into a filter sock in the sump which I remove and clean immediately after I'm done so it's not decomposing in the sump.
I know broken heaters can cause something freak like this to happen, but my heaters are working and there are no stray currents that I can feel. Moreover, the entire fish room is GFCI protected and the breakers never tripped.
I've thought about the possibility that my wife washed the filter socks with some detergent, but I always personally wash them myself using only vinegar and water and she confirmed that she didn't do anything but remove them from the washer and place them in the 5 gal bucket I keep them in.
I'm wondering if the Xenia decided to give off toxins for some reason. Since my discovery on Monday, I've added a couple cups of Rox to a reactor in the sump along with some fresh GFO"¦ the GFO and Rox that was in there was in there for a good month or so. I noted that the ORP started coming up immediately after changing the media so it's apparent it was removing something from the water. I also did a 10% water change. A larger water change was not possible due to not having the required volume of RO/DI water ready.
Ammonia, Nitrate and Phosphate are all safely zero or close to zero.
As of last night, the corals were looking close to normal as far as PE aside from one acro and all of the xenia. The xenia simply haven't rebounded yet so I'm starting to speculate that they may have been the source of all of this. Looking for feedback from others.
Of course, I removed all dead fish as soon as I found discovered this issue on Monday. 2 of the 3 remaining chromis passed away Monday night. The last one seems to be just fine with no signs of illness. Seriously bummed about the loss of these fish as most of them have been in the system since the early days in 2010"¦ RIP: My beloved sailfin tang, anthias, chromis and clowns.
Some specs of the system:
Born early 2010
240 gal Display in wall mounted
400-450 gal Total System
Mixed Reef, but largely SPS with some LPS (acans primarily, scoly, hammer, etc), Zoa's and Xenia
12 fish (tang, clowns, anthias and chromis)
Bare bottom (no sand bed)
All water comes from a BRS 6 Stage Chloramines RO/DI system with TDS always reading zero after the second DI canister.
Filtration:
* Bubble King 300 Deluxe External gravity fed directly by display tank overflow
* Fluidized reactor occasionally used for GAC and/or GFO
* Filter socks in sump - cleaned weekly with vinegar/water in washing machine. Socks are replaced every few months.
* Filter sponge as pre-filter to sump return pump inlet - cleaned monthly with vinegar/water
* 150 lbs+ Live Rock within system
* 40 gal Refugium (Currently without algae so lights off"¦ tough to get chaeto to stay alive with low nutrient levels)
* 35 gal Frag Tank (Currently holding live rock but no coral or lights on)
* 65 gal cryptic/live rock holding tank
* 50 gal coral growout/holding tank (currently disconnected from system and empty)
* Twin sump setup
Circulation:
* Vortech MPW40 x 2 in DT
* Tunze 6105 x 1 in DT
* Tunze Wavebox x 2 in DT (currently off line due to flaky wiring connectors)
* Jaebo RW-20 Wavemaker in DT
* Dart Gold (Sump return and feed to frag tank & fuge)
Lighting:
* 2x 250W Reeflux 12K MH's + 1x 400W Radium 20K MH "“ 7/8hr photoperiod
* 2x 80W T5's (Dimmable for sunrise/sunset) - 11 hr photoperiod
* T5's on fuge and frag tank (fuge and frag tank currently lights off)
Heating/Cooling:
* 2x 400W heater in sump and dual fans over tank controlled via Profilux.
* All tanks are housed in a dedicated fish room (In wall display).
* Fish room has its own ventilation and A/C system.
* A/C system maintains room at ~22-23C all year round
* Ventilation fan switches on every 1.5-3 hours for 30 min (depending on time of day) to exchange air with outdoors
* Tank Temperature maintained between 25.9 C (78.6 F) and 26.4 C (79.5 F) during day.
* Tank Temperature maintained between 25.4 C(77.7 F) and 25.9 C (78.6 F) during night.
Control/Supplementation/Feeding:
* Profilux II Plus EX system with ORP, pH, Temp, Salinity Control
* Profilux 4 channel dosing unit for top off (trigged by Conductivity probe) and Balling Salts (Alk, Ca and Mg)
* Roughly ½ cube frozen spirulina brine and small dime sized chunk of frozen Rod's Reef Food rinsed in tank water and then fed daily
* Was adding small quarter size piece of nori for tang per day, but not any more now
* Very small dosing of oyster feast daily via dosing pump
* Zeostart 3 slowly dosed throughout the day
Thanks in advance.
I came home from work 2 days ago to see that all of my fish except for the three chromis were not visible and that many of my corals (namely xenia, zoas and montis) had very little to no PE. The Xenia in particular were very shriveled up even more than they do normally at nighttime. Many of my acros has reduced PE as well. All snails, crabs and stars appeared to be fine.
The water looked very slightly hazy. I quickly checked parameters on the Profilux controller and saw pH, Conductivity (salinity inferred) and temp were all stable. I get regular emails from the controller (every 4 hours) and I had noticed earlier in the day that ORP was notably low. It usually ranges between 330 and 375mv, but was down around 250mv or so. I went back and noted that it started sometime between 4:30 PM and 8:30 PM the day prior as I saw around 335mv on the 4:30 PM email and 265mv on the 8:30 PM email. So I started thinking about what I had done that Sunday afternoon"¦
As part of my weekly maintenance routine, I spent Sunday doing a small ~10% water change with freshly mixed RO/DI and Reef Crystals brought up to the same spec gravity (checked with lab grade glass hydrometer) and temp as the display as I always do. I also changed out the two filter socks for some that I had previously washed in vinegar in the washing machine (been doing this weekly for years and I periodically replaced them with new socks from BRS).
Aside from that, I had siphoned off detritus and nuisance algae that I picked off rockwork and scraped off the back wall of the tank. I do this every week but I will note that it has been a good month or so since I scraped the back wall of the tank"¦ but not sure why it would matter. All of the siphoned off material goes direct into a filter sock in the sump which I remove and clean immediately after I'm done so it's not decomposing in the sump.
I know broken heaters can cause something freak like this to happen, but my heaters are working and there are no stray currents that I can feel. Moreover, the entire fish room is GFCI protected and the breakers never tripped.
I've thought about the possibility that my wife washed the filter socks with some detergent, but I always personally wash them myself using only vinegar and water and she confirmed that she didn't do anything but remove them from the washer and place them in the 5 gal bucket I keep them in.
I'm wondering if the Xenia decided to give off toxins for some reason. Since my discovery on Monday, I've added a couple cups of Rox to a reactor in the sump along with some fresh GFO"¦ the GFO and Rox that was in there was in there for a good month or so. I noted that the ORP started coming up immediately after changing the media so it's apparent it was removing something from the water. I also did a 10% water change. A larger water change was not possible due to not having the required volume of RO/DI water ready.
Ammonia, Nitrate and Phosphate are all safely zero or close to zero.
As of last night, the corals were looking close to normal as far as PE aside from one acro and all of the xenia. The xenia simply haven't rebounded yet so I'm starting to speculate that they may have been the source of all of this. Looking for feedback from others.
Of course, I removed all dead fish as soon as I found discovered this issue on Monday. 2 of the 3 remaining chromis passed away Monday night. The last one seems to be just fine with no signs of illness. Seriously bummed about the loss of these fish as most of them have been in the system since the early days in 2010"¦ RIP: My beloved sailfin tang, anthias, chromis and clowns.
Some specs of the system:
Born early 2010
240 gal Display in wall mounted
400-450 gal Total System
Mixed Reef, but largely SPS with some LPS (acans primarily, scoly, hammer, etc), Zoa's and Xenia
12 fish (tang, clowns, anthias and chromis)
Bare bottom (no sand bed)
All water comes from a BRS 6 Stage Chloramines RO/DI system with TDS always reading zero after the second DI canister.
Filtration:
* Bubble King 300 Deluxe External gravity fed directly by display tank overflow
* Fluidized reactor occasionally used for GAC and/or GFO
* Filter socks in sump - cleaned weekly with vinegar/water in washing machine. Socks are replaced every few months.
* Filter sponge as pre-filter to sump return pump inlet - cleaned monthly with vinegar/water
* 150 lbs+ Live Rock within system
* 40 gal Refugium (Currently without algae so lights off"¦ tough to get chaeto to stay alive with low nutrient levels)
* 35 gal Frag Tank (Currently holding live rock but no coral or lights on)
* 65 gal cryptic/live rock holding tank
* 50 gal coral growout/holding tank (currently disconnected from system and empty)
* Twin sump setup
Circulation:
* Vortech MPW40 x 2 in DT
* Tunze 6105 x 1 in DT
* Tunze Wavebox x 2 in DT (currently off line due to flaky wiring connectors)
* Jaebo RW-20 Wavemaker in DT
* Dart Gold (Sump return and feed to frag tank & fuge)
Lighting:
* 2x 250W Reeflux 12K MH's + 1x 400W Radium 20K MH "“ 7/8hr photoperiod
* 2x 80W T5's (Dimmable for sunrise/sunset) - 11 hr photoperiod
* T5's on fuge and frag tank (fuge and frag tank currently lights off)
Heating/Cooling:
* 2x 400W heater in sump and dual fans over tank controlled via Profilux.
* All tanks are housed in a dedicated fish room (In wall display).
* Fish room has its own ventilation and A/C system.
* A/C system maintains room at ~22-23C all year round
* Ventilation fan switches on every 1.5-3 hours for 30 min (depending on time of day) to exchange air with outdoors
* Tank Temperature maintained between 25.9 C (78.6 F) and 26.4 C (79.5 F) during day.
* Tank Temperature maintained between 25.4 C(77.7 F) and 25.9 C (78.6 F) during night.
Control/Supplementation/Feeding:
* Profilux II Plus EX system with ORP, pH, Temp, Salinity Control
* Profilux 4 channel dosing unit for top off (trigged by Conductivity probe) and Balling Salts (Alk, Ca and Mg)
* Roughly ½ cube frozen spirulina brine and small dime sized chunk of frozen Rod's Reef Food rinsed in tank water and then fed daily
* Was adding small quarter size piece of nori for tang per day, but not any more now
* Very small dosing of oyster feast daily via dosing pump
* Zeostart 3 slowly dosed throughout the day
Thanks in advance.