Freshwater dip vs. drip and medicate vs. nothing

Freshwater dip vs. drip and medicate vs. nothing

  • Freshwater dip

    Votes: 3 33.3%
  • Drip acclimate with parasite meds

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • No dip or meds

    Votes: 4 44.4%

  • Total voters
    9

oakengineer

New member
I lost a lawnmower blenny in my QT this weekend. Talking to my LFS, they suspected my aggressive introduction procedure. I didn't see anything in the sticky about a FW dip, but I had been following this process laid out by Martin Moe in Marine Aquarium Handbook:

Acclimate to QT tank
2 min Freshwater bath (I used RODI water)
2 weeks in QT

LFS thought the combination of a freshwater dip plus QT was too much stress for the fish. They recommended drip acclimating with Acriflavine added to kill parasites and then just dumping them in the DT. Now I know a QT is recommended, and I've been reading mixed advice on acclimating vs. not acclimating. But what about the Freshwater dip? Is it worth the risk of harming the fish for the sake of making sure there are no hitchhikers (especially if there's nothing visibly wrong with the fish) Should I use the medicine instead? Or should I do neither and just let the stay in the QT tank show me if there is a problem?
 
Definitely read the QT sticky -- and also sk8r's threads on QTing. With a QT, the best practice is to match your QT salinity exactly to the LFS (or shipper) salinity. Temp acclimate (float the bag) and then net the fish into your QT.

It's common to medicate with prazipro (for flukes and other worms which is really common) and then observe for several weeks.

Tank transfer is also common here and can eliminate potential ich in two weeks.

As an aside, 2 weeks in QT won't tell you much of anything. My QT procedure lasts 6 weeks and that's only because I pre-medicate as much as possible (I do prazi, chloroquine phosphate, and then observe).
 
The beauty of the QT is you do not need to acclimate the fish. Match the salinity while floating the bag then put the fish in the tank.

If your fish appears healthy you can let the fish settle in for a few days then do your TT, treat with prazipro or whatever you QT regimen is.
 
Definitely read the QT sticky -- and also sk8r's threads on QTing. With a QT, the best practice is to match your QT salinity exactly to the LFS (or shipper) salinity. Temp acclimate (float the bag) and then net the fish into your QT.

Ok. I read the QT and acclimation stickies. None of them mentioned anything about a freshwater dip. Is this an archaic technique?
 
With a QT, the best practice is to match your QT salinity exactly to the LFS (or shipper) salinity. Temp acclimate (float the bag) and then net the fish into your QT.

Agree 100%

I've been doing it this way for almost 10 years and have not lost a single fish to the initial acclimation process. I do it for both fish that have come a long way and for LFS purchases.

I use NGP initially in the QT for new arrivals for two weeks. Then CP for a further 30 days (not on all fish though, some I just observe). Then two rounds of prazipro. Then observe for the balance of 12 weeks.

Most important is to get a new fish eating well.
 
Ok. I read the QT and acclimation stickies. None of them mentioned anything about a freshwater dip. Is this an archaic technique?

Depending on the state of the fish I will do a FW dip prior to my quarantine protocol. The main reason is to determine if the fish has flukes.
You'll get arguments to both sides whether to dip or not. Some say it's too stressful. IME it's more stressful on the human especially if they do not have a lot of experience doing them. I will tell you I've never lost a fish from a dip but I have from flukes. Also while two minutes is a good starting point I would try for 3-5 but no more than that. IME the bigger the fish the longer than can withstand the dip.
 
Ok. I read the QT and acclimation stickies. None of them mentioned anything about a freshwater dip. Is this an archaic technique?

FW dip is common to confirm flukes, but as a preventative measure, isn't very common. It won't cure anything, but might provide additional evidence there is a problem.
 
I use NGP initially in the QT for new arrivals for two weeks.

NGP = nitrofuracin green?

Do you get it from NFP? And since you mentioned CP, is NFP your supplier of that? Is the quality good (I usually order my meds via my work (I'm a chemistry professor) but a good non-work source would be ideal).
 
Don't use ro water for a fw dip. Try to match ph with your dip water using baking soda to buffer ph to 8.2 unless your tap water is hard to begin with. I just use dechlorinated tap for my dips and a length of 5-10 min depending on how the fish is handling it
 
in my experience i always just acclimate to the qt tank first and give a few days getting the fish eating then you can do a fresh dip most the time the problem is flukes hard to see them but if you really look you can notice a clear to hazy bump its a fluke i just diped a 800$ crosshatch trigger talk about scared most expensive dip ive ever done i could only see 3 on his chin ended up he was peppered did it after he was here for 3 days he was so much happier after you can notice these things when a fish is pale in color or hiding often or scratching not to ich so really look but be patient ive noticed every time i dipped and moved a fish to a diff system it died the next day or within 2 so take your time
 
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