Steve, I would like to take you up on that whenever we can connect. Maybe I could come over and check out your tank someday, or we could meet up at ABC. LMK what might work.
Fritz's split-level cave tank build
- Thread starter Flanders
- Start date
Steve, I would like to take you up on that whenever we can connect. Maybe I could come over and check out your tank someday, or we could meet up at ABC. LMK what might work.
Thanks. Definitely trying to do something different. I have another idea for a shelf sandbed setup in a cube tank.
I really like this style of aquascape also and would like to try it someday. Like you're at the bottom of a wall.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
atypical rack?
atypical rack?
No- atypical STACK!
awesome build so far!
atypical rack?
No- atypical STACK!
awesome build so far!
mr86mister
Saltaholic
Looks great!! Something different. Are you going for the idea of having NPS corals under the hang area?
I will be tearing my tank down very soon,best if you can stop over before then,if not I could always meet you at abcreefs.
I will be around all day today and mon on through the coming weekend call/text me -315-four 27-zero9zero8.
I couldnt find your number,
-Steve
SquidwardTentacles
New member
Flanders, Even Homer would be impressed with this one. Nice.
No prob.No time right now but Ill be back when I can,likely in the fall.
GL with everything you have going on
-Steve
tahiriqbal
Sialkot
Very nice build Steve, defo one to watch and would love to see your feeding routine.
Tahir
Tahir
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Awesome!
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
If I was going to be real nit picky I'd make some suggestions about the CL because you asked, but honestly I don't see anything majorly wrong.
I am in love with the lighting. I have really wanted to do a rig like that for years.
I am in love with the lighting. I have really wanted to do a rig like that for years.
steveo9043
New member
subscribing to this! I have thought about a multiple level tank and im very interested in seeing how it goes.
Nothing to offer tho as I am a noob to this.
Nothing to offer tho as I am a noob to this.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Some of this might not be feasible from an actual implementation perspective but since you asked...
1) If the pump doesn't have a drain fitting on it, I would try to locate the valves much closer to the unions or use union ball valves. The way you have it now, every time you take the plumbing apart, the water in the pipes from the valve to the unions will just dump on the floor.
2) That 90 right in front of the intake on the pump looks really close. I'd typically shoot for 5 or 6 pipe diameters' worth of straight pipe in front of an intake. Having angled fittings that close in leaves you open for cavitation, though it depends on how sensitive the pump is - that looks like an Iwaki or Mak 4 maybe, which probably aren't that sensitive anyways (being higher speed pressure-biased pumps by nature).
3) Least important, but it looks like the output from the pump is not perfectly in the vertical plane and there's an extra 45 in there? If you turned the pump 90 degrees you might be able to take advantage of that and eliminate the extra 45s up after the T.
Also, I know this isn't common practice and some may think it's a bit of a hack, but I don't think I am ever again going to hard plumb a pump to PVC. On my 360g I used short rubber couplings immediately before and after each pump to isolate the vibration. It made a HUGE difference in noise. If your system isn't noisy it's probably not worthwhile but if you start it up and it's really noisy, it might be worth a shot.
Your gorgs are all doing well in my system BTW, I am going to be sad to see them go once you're finally up and running!
1) If the pump doesn't have a drain fitting on it, I would try to locate the valves much closer to the unions or use union ball valves. The way you have it now, every time you take the plumbing apart, the water in the pipes from the valve to the unions will just dump on the floor.
2) That 90 right in front of the intake on the pump looks really close. I'd typically shoot for 5 or 6 pipe diameters' worth of straight pipe in front of an intake. Having angled fittings that close in leaves you open for cavitation, though it depends on how sensitive the pump is - that looks like an Iwaki or Mak 4 maybe, which probably aren't that sensitive anyways (being higher speed pressure-biased pumps by nature).
3) Least important, but it looks like the output from the pump is not perfectly in the vertical plane and there's an extra 45 in there? If you turned the pump 90 degrees you might be able to take advantage of that and eliminate the extra 45s up after the T.
Also, I know this isn't common practice and some may think it's a bit of a hack, but I don't think I am ever again going to hard plumb a pump to PVC. On my 360g I used short rubber couplings immediately before and after each pump to isolate the vibration. It made a HUGE difference in noise. If your system isn't noisy it's probably not worthwhile but if you start it up and it's really noisy, it might be worth a shot.
Your gorgs are all doing well in my system BTW, I am going to be sad to see them go once you're finally up and running!
Thanks so much for the advice. I definitely see water being dumped on the floor with this setup so I'm going to look into a drain fitting. I can't really get the valves any closer to the unions because I couldn't find slip unions at HD or Lowe's, so there are extra fittings in there.
It is an Iwaki pump. Good eye on the angled output too. I'm not so worried about noise because it's in the basement.
I really do appreciate it. You know those gorgs are just way too big and we're going to have to frag them, so you won't miss them too much.
It is an Iwaki pump. Good eye on the angled output too. I'm not so worried about noise because it's in the basement.
I really do appreciate it. You know those gorgs are just way too big and we're going to have to frag them, so you won't miss them too much.
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