FYI - GE Silicone II - TOXIC

[Floyd R Turbo]

Well then I found this on GE II and it looks about the same as far as %'s go

http://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=7011005

So I'm guessing that the RTV 100 series is the way to go for us DIYers at least. And then 2 week cure time. I've been saying 72 hours to fill test and then I assumed it was OK after that, but I guess I will change my advice ASAP.

 

[rrasco]

Pretty sure it's safe. People use RTV 108 (clear) and RTV 103 (black)....and I think it's been mentioned that's what a lot of manufacturers use. FWIW, I couldn't find GE RTV locally so I used Permatex RTV 10oz from AutoZone. I had not seen anyone use that before but even some fish places sell it for aquariums so I kind of took a gamble.

 

[tkeracer619]

People have warned not to use Silicone II for at least three decades now...

^^^ this. Better research would have saved you a serious headache.

In the future when there are conflicting experiences change paths and use something that doesn't have conflicting experiences.

 

[DeathWish302]

I came across this thread via my local club. Very interesting info and good discussion.

Is the GE RTV100 series then considered safe?

According to the tech data sheet here:

http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10685.pdf

It meets #2 and #3 of Uncle's list, but the MSDS lists some fillers:

http://www.rosentrade.com/pdf/108 msds.pdf

Maybe I'm reading it wrong. Possibly just different types of silicone making up the 99.9% of it?

Go to grainger and get product code UHC-110 and/or UHC-105 (not sure if this is correct for clear).
It's made by Momentive works fine for $10 a tube.

I've used all the HD & Lowe's 100% silicones with no fungicide additives and have only recently started using the Momentive product due to a much better experience with general performance. I will state I have a 20gal long that has been in operation for nearly 7 yrs with the GE TypeI product. I can't state it's the same formula as today, but it's worked with no problems and no deaths.

I've discussed this with Uncle over many threads, but what it came down to was a $5 savings was not worth the risk of recipe changes in the future and the investment once I started getting into the high $$$ corals and clowns. Listen to uncle's advice on the 'Rule of 3'.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

In the future when there are conflicting experiences change paths and use something that doesn't have conflicting experiences.

Great statement!!

Go to grainger and get product code UHC-110 and/or UHC-105 (not sure if this is correct for clear).
It's made by Momentive works fine for $10 a tube.

I came across that brand as well, it looks the same as GE for less (and the MSDS is almost identical).

Thanks to all!

 

[uncleof6]

editing

 

[uncleof6]

Go to grainger and get product code UHC-110 and/or UHC-105 (not sure if this is correct for clear).
It's made by Momentive works fine for $10 a tube.

These product codes are no good. They draw a blank.
The product codes are: 4UH12 translucent, or 4UH10 for the black.

Great statement!!



I came across that brand as well, it looks the same as GE for less (and the MSDS is almost identical).

Thanks to all!

The MSDS does not contain the information that you really need to know. lol The info that is pertinent is in the product data sheet.

However, GE RTV100 series, and Momentive RTV100 series, are not different products made by different companies. It is the same product, made by the same company. GE Silicone Division was bought out by Momentive Performance Materials in 1996. It is taking a long time to change the labeling.

The two silicones to use are Momentive RTV100 (103 or 108) and SCS1200. SCS1200 is more bubble prone than the RTV, though it is a bit stronger.

It is really rather simple, and I have said it a thousand times, if I said it once. When in doubt, is it FDA approved? If not move on to the next one, or just use the two that are listed above. They are the two strongest out there that I have run across yet.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Uncle, I get this on scs-1200

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=38201

The SCS-1000 One Part Silicone has excellent adhesion and is for general glazing and sealing. Tensile strength is 320 psi and the cure time is 5 to 7 days. It is not for structural glazing, bathrooms, concrete surface or below water. The SCS-1200 High Silicone Content is for premium structural applications. It has a high tensile strength of 450 psi. It, too, has excellent adhesion and a fast cure time of 5 to 7 days. It is waterproof and can be used inside or out, on metal, wood, plastic, and glass.

??

 

[uncleof6]

Uncle, I get this on scs-1200

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=38201



??

Specifically SCS1201 translucent or 1203 black. The 1000 is weaker than the RTV100 series. 320 psi as opposed to 400 psi.

US Plastics likes to make it complicated, by combining the description. Make sure you get the right product.

This you may find this interesting.

http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10418.pdf

Look specifically under limitations. The only acknowledgment of aquarium use, I have seen in GE (Momentive) literature.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Sweet - thanks!

 

[Jamesjkl]

^^^ this. Better research would have saved you a serious headache.

In the future when there are conflicting experiences change paths and use something that doesn't have conflicting experiences.

if you are referring to things conflicting on the internet or on the boards we can use nothing then everyone has a tit for a tat or your good killed my fish:wildone:

 

[DeathWish302]

These product codes are no good. They draw a blank.
The product codes are: 4UH12 translucent, or 4UH10 for the black.

Sorry buddy, your right.... I checked last night and for some reason a sticker was placed on the back of the tube with that code and I was referring to it.

Regardless, the RTV100 series is worth the drive to Grainger and additional cost.

 

[gmate]

GE Silicone I clear, been in-tank for securing my DIY foam rockwall to my corner 55g bowfront for over a month and my reef is thriving like crazy. Highly recommend it in the future. Sorry for any loss you've had.

 

[slumpysix]

It sucks to read about these things happening. I used GE 1 in a sump once and after 6 months turned yellow. I made a switch of sumps to remove the bad stuff. I have used the small tubes that are for aquarium use from HD in sumps and has held up well, and would not recommend it for anything other than baffles in a sump. I had a debate about this very issue on here awhile ago but it made me search and search to find out the truth and not use certain products in the tanks...

 

[tkeracer619]

if you are referring to things conflicting on the internet or on the boards we can use nothing then everyone has a tit for a tat or your good killed my fish:wildone:

If a bunch of people said they used XYZ and it killed all of their fish then you should stay away from that product especially since there are many more options readily available. That is all I am saying.

FWIW my 360g and sump are made with GE1. I would follow uncleof6's advice and get the proper silicone if I were to do it again but GE1 will hold a tank together no problem (as long as the tank itself is proper).

 

[Jamesjkl]

If a bunch of people said they used XYZ and it killed all of their fish then you should stay away from that product especially since there are many more options readily available. That is all I am saying.

FWIW my 360g and sump are made with GE1. I would follow uncleof6's advice and get the proper silicone if I were to do it again but GE1 will hold a tank together no problem (as long as the tank itself is proper).

I see what you are saying but there are as many saying that they used the the product safely as say it killed things who do you believe. I agree if the majority say no they are probably right.

I have used both in tanks before both fresh and salt and not had any problems but i did not use as much only 6-10 inches of 1/4 bead never near a tube so maybe I just made them unwell or there is a threshold amount used at one time or much longer cure times I'm never in a hurry well almost never.

 

[crabbygirl]

GE Silicone 2 is toxic

GE Silicone 2 is toxic

After a great deal of heartache this weekend, I feel the need to put my thoughts in about this product. I moved my well established cube filled with my seahorses over to a new Illuminata this weekend. The tank ran without the sump for two days and the inhabitants where thriving. Saturday my husband glued the baffles into my new sump using GE Silicone 2 and he glued them well! The sump was allowed to cure for 24 hours before filling. Sunday afternoon the sump was turned on. By evening time the corals were retracting and the seahorses weren't eating. By morning I had a dead seahorse, brittle stars, snails, bristle worms and corals. The remaining seahorses were struggling. There have been two complete water changes on the main tank and sump has been removed. I still have creatures showing up dead from the rock. I don't yet know if my rock will be safe to use...ever. What I do know is that I poisoned my tank with this product. Were there areas that hadn't finished curing....don't know? What make me very upset is the packaging of this product. It states that it is 100 percent silicone in big bold print on the front. It doesn't state that in has mildew inhibitors in it until you get to the tiny print on the back. It also states on the back that it should not be used below the water line or in aquariums.
Over the course of the week I am watching my beautiful seahorses die one by one and feeling horribly guilty knowing that I should have stopped and read the tiny print all the way to the bottom.
I have thrown away all the sand in the refugium as well as the sump itself knowing that we won't be able to get rid of all the caulk. Are there any thoughts if this rock can be used?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you read post #39 by Acrylics, he states that you should wait 2 weeks to allow any silicone to fully cure. This was likely your primary downfall. Even using the GE RTV 108 you should let it fully cure.

Even when re-sealing an aquarium, the general rule of thumb is to wait 72 hours before you do a fill test. 24 hours is just not enough, no matter what.

 

[rrasco]

I've filled a tank after 24 hours using GE I. However, I generally don't try to do that, but I have done it a time or two.

Although, I don't think cure time was crabbygirl's issue, it was most likely the mildew inhibitors. But to clarify, she stated GE II is toxic, which may be true, but the results of her anecdote are skewed because she used one with a mildew inhibitor, something we already recognize as toxic. So what should have been stated was that GE Silicone II with mildew inhibitors is toxic, which once again, we already know.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Oh I didn't notice that she mentioned that it had mildew inhibitors on the label...speed reading accident