terahz
1x10^12 Hz
I'm using 25+40 degree optics (25 on the outside and 40 on the inside). I want to try 10+25 and see how it looks though.
Georgi's 40B rimless
- Thread starter terahz
- Start date
I'm using 25+40 degree optics (25 on the outside and 40 on the inside). I want to try 10+25 and see how it looks though.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Yep, that's the problem for me too. The darn AC never takes air from outside. It just recycles the inside air. I had guests for the last couple of days sleep in the room with the tank and because it was so hot outside we didn't open the any windows and the PH dropped to 7.3! However with the windows open it goes to 8+. I might have to route the air tube for the skimmer to a window so that it can put some fresh air in the tank and keep my PH stable.
This is a terrific setup! I'm glad I came across it, as I was going to do smth very similar as far as plumbing and arduino are concerned. Could you answer a few questions for me please?
Your return is under the water level. I was originally shooting for the same, but then realized that I'd have to put checkvalves to fight siphoning through the pump, and eventually settled for over-the-top return. Do you have some trick that allows you to avoid over-the-top return and get this clean look?
Though I started with looking at glass-holes.com overflow, I switched my mind to herbie-style overflow with a box hanging behind the tank and taking water through the drilled glass. All because of the video that glass-holes.com has that demonstrates that their overflow is not silent at all. How's the 700gph sound for you? Audible at all? What gph are you actually running after all head losses? What pump?
What relay boards are these? Where did you get them? My plan was to modify one of the surge-arrest computer power strips (e.g. APC PRO7) by removing the surge-filtering electronics from there and putting in the freed up space an array of solid state relays controlled by low voltage signal coming from arduino box. This way all high voltage wiring would be limited to the power strip. But getting ready-to-use relay matrix may work out better...
Did you by any chance get to networking that arduino box? An WIZ110SR from sparkfun looks like a good TTL-to-Ethernet bridge.
Finally, the part that I didn't research yet at all are the probes... Did you pick any temperature or pH probes for your controller yet?
Your return is under the water level. I was originally shooting for the same, but then realized that I'd have to put checkvalves to fight siphoning through the pump, and eventually settled for over-the-top return. Do you have some trick that allows you to avoid over-the-top return and get this clean look?
Though I started with looking at glass-holes.com overflow, I switched my mind to herbie-style overflow with a box hanging behind the tank and taking water through the drilled glass. All because of the video that glass-holes.com has that demonstrates that their overflow is not silent at all. How's the 700gph sound for you? Audible at all? What gph are you actually running after all head losses? What pump?
What relay boards are these? Where did you get them? My plan was to modify one of the surge-arrest computer power strips (e.g. APC PRO7) by removing the surge-filtering electronics from there and putting in the freed up space an array of solid state relays controlled by low voltage signal coming from arduino box. This way all high voltage wiring would be limited to the power strip. But getting ready-to-use relay matrix may work out better...
Did you by any chance get to networking that arduino box? An WIZ110SR from sparkfun looks like a good TTL-to-Ethernet bridge.
Finally, the part that I didn't research yet at all are the probes... Did you pick any temperature or pH probes for your controller yet?
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Thanks and sure.
I just have a very big return compartment in my sump that operates at just above the pump level so if there is power loss, water from the DT drains in the sump and there is no harm done.
It is not silent, but it is not noisier than my MP40 either. As a matter of fact I'm glad there is a little trickle sound from there that masks the rumbling of the vortech.
I haven't computed the GPH, but the pump (as stated in my first post) is an Eheim 1260 (602GPH rating) so I'm guessing I'm in the 350-400gph range, though I could be off by a lot. Either way I was going for about 10x my DT.
The boards are Futurlec opto-isolated 10A 4 relay boards from ... Futurlec
: http://www.futurlec.com/Opto_Relay_4.shtmlFor the price/convenience I don't think you can beat them. Add an American DJ power strip and you have 8 controlled strips for $60.
I have not had time to work on the Ethernet portion of the circuit yet. It is a proto board and there are some minor problems with the ETH circuit, but again, I haven't really looked at it. I've been working on coding the rest of the controller because I was on vacation for 2 weeks and wanted to make sure no disasters can happen while I was away.
For temperature I'm using an LM35 - a linear temp to V IC that works pretty well. You have to, however, be a little creative to isolate it from the water as it is not waterproof. For PH, I use the BRS probes and they seem to work well.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Time for some photos.
FTS: Initial algae bloom is now almost gone from the rocks and the back and right glass are being cleaned by the army of snails I got form reefcleaners.
For some reason the crabs like to go half way under the sand and wait there:
Or just watch their human world:
And started adding some coral:
So far so good. Tank is now 3 months old, so I hope the basic bacteria is in place to keep up with the load from the Cardinals I got and keep the SPS happy.
Meanwhile I got an order of snails from reefcleaners. The dwarf ceriths are awesome. However all florida ceriths arrived dead. I didn't realize that and put them in the tank, but after 1 day of no movement I pulled them out and they smelled like.... I hope they didn't release too much crap in my tank. I did 15% wc after that, so inhabitants should be good. We'll see...
My nano conchs (strombos grazers) from ipsf have started to multiply (see egg sack on second hermit photo). They are also very nice tiny grazers so I'm happy that they multiply easily.
FTS: Initial algae bloom is now almost gone from the rocks and the back and right glass are being cleaned by the army of snails I got form reefcleaners.
For some reason the crabs like to go half way under the sand and wait there:
Or just watch their human world:
And started adding some coral:
So far so good. Tank is now 3 months old, so I hope the basic bacteria is in place to keep up with the load from the Cardinals I got and keep the SPS happy.
Meanwhile I got an order of snails from reefcleaners. The dwarf ceriths are awesome. However all florida ceriths arrived dead. I didn't realize that and put them in the tank, but after 1 day of no movement I pulled them out and they smelled like.... I hope they didn't release too much crap in my tank. I did 15% wc after that, so inhabitants should be good. We'll see...
My nano conchs (strombos grazers) from ipsf have started to multiply (see egg sack on second hermit photo). They are also very nice tiny grazers so I'm happy that they multiply easily.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
The MP40 is great for this tank. I keep mine on random mode with max at 50% and seems to create really nice random flow . All the fish keep in the other side of the tank . I was going to get two mp10s, but glasscages decided to make my tank ... a tank and used 1/2" glass so mp10 was out of the question.
. All the fish keep in the other side of the tank . I was going to get two mp10s, but glasscages decided to make my tank ... a tank and used 1/2" glass so mp10 was out of the question.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
The rocks were cleaned mainly by the two Trochus snails I got(Love them! They clean like vacuums and are gentle, unlike turbos) + Dwarf Ceriths from reefcleaners. The algae on the glass is starting to peel off on its own, so I'm guessing that's because of the better nutrient control. I also started adding some VitC every day to the tank (a week now), and the skimmer has been going like crazy, so my guess is the bacteria from the VitC dosing are probably eating all the nutrients in the water and the algae on the glass can't get any. So now I just collect patches of brown goo from the glass and the CUC goes after me and wipes the glass clean.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Well it was only a matter of time but this morning I had my first jumper. It was one of the first clowns that I've had for almost a year... I'm starting to think of ways to prevent this from happening. All this work for a clean rimless tank, but I really don't like dry fish on the carpet 
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
A little update is due. I made a clear 1/4" mesh cover for the tank. I'm quite happy how it came up. That BRS mesh is awesome. Now I'll be getting some nicer fish
Tested PAR with and without the mesh and it "eats" about 5%-6% light. I'd say pretty good.
Also, I changed the optics to Carlco 12.4° clear tight beams. I got some interesting results. My lights are not exactly in the middle of the tank (front to back) but a maybe 60/40 (closer to the back). So at the back glass, my PAR stayed the same. from 1/4 to 3/4 of the tank (again front to back) the par doubled! At the front glass the par is not about 60% of what it was before - less light on the front glass means less light spilled in front of the tank and less algae on the front glass.
I also have some 14.3° Frosted optics that I might try as well. Will probably have 1/2 tank with them and 1/2 with the 12.4° to compare side by side.
So to talk actual numbers: at the top of the water, right under the lights I get about 500 PAR. Middle depth under the lights I get 450 PAR. Sand on the back gets about 170.
When I put the other optics I will update my PAR FTS with new numbers.
Tested PAR with and without the mesh and it "eats" about 5%-6% light. I'd say pretty good.
Also, I changed the optics to Carlco 12.4° clear tight beams. I got some interesting results. My lights are not exactly in the middle of the tank (front to back) but a maybe 60/40 (closer to the back). So at the back glass, my PAR stayed the same. from 1/4 to 3/4 of the tank (again front to back) the par doubled! At the front glass the par is not about 60% of what it was before - less light on the front glass means less light spilled in front of the tank and less algae on the front glass
. I also have some 14.3° Frosted optics that I might try as well. Will probably have 1/2 tank with them and 1/2 with the 12.4° to compare side by side.
So to talk actual numbers: at the top of the water, right under the lights I get about 500 PAR. Middle depth under the lights I get 450 PAR. Sand on the back gets about 170.
When I put the other optics I will update my PAR FTS with new numbers.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
I think they are good enough. I can measure about 55C on the heatsink and maybe a bit under 70C right at the junction. If Cree's estimations are to be believed, at 25C ambient temperature these LEDs have mean L70 (go to 70% output) lifetime of 70K hours. At 10hrs a day, that's a bit over 19 years which is ridiculous amount of time for a light fixture.
I see everyone here going overboard with these huge heatsinks and then active cooling on them... I just don't see the point.
I see everyone here going overboard with these huge heatsinks and then active cooling on them... I just don't see the point.
I do agree with you about the huge heatsinks .... wayyyy to big lol
I do follow too your controller ... very good job ! I am doing one too (when I have time to work on it lol). Do about the same than yours but have a big touchscreen LCD on it. My ethernet connection is wifi but I have hard time right now to run this part ...
I do follow too your controller ... very good job ! I am doing one too (when I have time to work on it lol). Do about the same than yours but have a big touchscreen LCD on it. My ethernet connection is wifi but I have hard time right now to run this part ...
Kolognekoral
New member
I think the next step with your 'broken heatsink' style would be to develope a frame whereby they can be arranged and re-arranged to suite the developing corals. Maybe held fast with a clip, instead of bolted down. You have a very cool approach, here. Kudos!
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Yeah would be nice, but I can't justify the complexity The way I have it, I can still move things around a little bit. I can pivot the heatsink to point it left/right. I can screw it at the edge of the heatsink instead of the middle and that will make 2 lights get closer to eachother... Also I have the entire fixture on 2 articulating arms so I can pivot each half about 10 degrees and move it parallel to the tank in any direction. Good enough for me
If you come up with something, however, please let me know. If it isn't too complex I might upgrade
The way I have it, I can still move things around a little bit. I can pivot the heatsink to point it left/right. I can screw it at the edge of the heatsink instead of the middle and that will make 2 lights get closer to eachother... Also I have the entire fixture on 2 articulating arms so I can pivot each half about 10 degrees and move it parallel to the tank in any direction. Good enough for me If you come up with something, however, please let me know. If it isn't too complex I might upgrade
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Here is what the mesh looks like on top:
With that mesh, I got a firefish, orchid pseudochromis and a Tangaroa goby.
I love the pseudochromis. It moves so nicely in the tank and is is doing it with its mouth open most of the time
Also, I got yellow gorgonian. That thing is gorgeous! It eats cyclopeze like nobody's business and the polyps are always expanded. I hope to be able to keep it long term, it is for sure my new most favorite coral.
With that mesh, I got a firefish, orchid pseudochromis and a Tangaroa goby.
I love the pseudochromis. It moves so nicely in the tank and is is doing it with its mouth open most of the time
Also, I got yellow gorgonian. That thing is gorgeous! It eats cyclopeze like nobody's business and the polyps are always expanded. I hope to be able to keep it long term, it is for sure my new most favorite coral.
