Georgi's 40B rimless

The mesh looks good, I think I will have to try that. And the yellow gorg - if it continues to thrive with cylcopeeze, I would be interested in trading for a frag. I have a couple gorgs that I have had for a few years, but they are the photosynthetic type, not much of a challenge. From the looks of that yellow one, it may be one of the non-photosysnthetics, I would like to try that.
 
Thanks guys.

The gorg is non-photosynthetic but stays open day and night. I'm still not sure how often I should feed it, but it seems to be taking food whenever I give it. I'll keep you updated on how it is doing.
 
Good luck with the gorgonian Georgi. I gather the success rate with non-photosynthetics is usually fairly low. But in your case, that polyp extension seems to be a good sign.

It is beautiful. So I hope it grows like gangbusters. Best of luck!
 
Hi Georgi

Nice tank...
I have the same tank. Rimless 40 gal. Starphire

Your MP40 dont blast your corals? Im thinking buy 1 MP20 for mine.

Also your corals look nice under that LEDs.

Pierre
 
Pierre,
The MP40 is perfect for a 40G (that's why it is mp40 ;) ). Jokes aside, it actually works very well for my tank. I have it at 50% max and I get a very nice flow. If/when the tank gets crowded with coral all I need to do is turn the dial up. The main reason I didn't get two mp10s (which I think would have been better for a more random flow) is because my tank is made with 1/2" glass. The mp20 and MP40 are the same wet side size-wise so it didn't make sense to get the 20.
 
Btw, a small teaser from the web interface of my tank controller:
<a href="http://joro.geodar.com/images/uploads/gauges.png"><img src="http://joro.geodar.com/images/uploads/gauges.png" alt="gauges"/></a>
 
That interface looks awesome. Values on the x axis so you can gauge the time would be cool. :) Can the hydra run this?
 
Pierre,
The MP40 is perfect for a 40G (that's why it is mp40 ;) ). Jokes aside, it actually works very well for my tank. I have it at 50% max and I get a very nice flow. If/when the tank gets crowded with coral all I need to do is turn the dial up. The main reason I didn't get two mp10s (which I think would have been better for a more random flow) is because my tank is made with 1/2" glass. The mp20 and MP40 are the same wet side size-wise so it didn't make sense to get the 20.

Hi, nice tank you have there and I am especially impressed with the DIY work you have done. Did you happen to go to MIT? I was going to order from Glasscage.com also but found a better deal on a deep blue rimless tank. Not sure which is better though. I think they both your starsphire glass. I was surprised to hear you say that the glass is 1/2" thick on your tank. Is that correct or 1/4" a 1/2" is very very thick glass, amazing. Your tank alone must weigh 100lbs.

I was surprised to hear you say that the MP40 is perfect for a 40G when the MP10 says that is is good for up to 50G. I would think the MP40 would be good up to 150, so I am confused there. I was going to get an MP 10 for mine but now I hear you say MP40 is perfect for a 40G so I don't know now. Now that might get the 57G I was shooting for a MP20, now I am thinking that will be to small.

In any case I envy your tank and DIY skills. I have to buy everything. :artist:
 
That interface looks awesome. Values on the x axis so you can gauge the time would be cool. :) Can the hydra run this?
Yep, this is the web app for the Hydra reef controller.

Hi, nice tank you have there and I am especially impressed with the DIY work you have done. Did you happen to go to MIT? I was going to order from Glasscage.com also but found a better deal on a deep blue rimless tank. Not sure which is better though. I think they both your starsphire glass. I was surprised to hear you say that the glass is 1/2" thick on your tank. Is that correct or 1/4" a 1/2" is very very thick glass, amazing. Your tank alone must weigh 100lbs.

I was surprised to hear you say that the MP40 is perfect for a 40G when the MP10 says that is is good for up to 50G. I would think the MP40 would be good up to 150, so I am confused there. I was going to get an MP 10 for mine but now I hear you say MP40 is perfect for a 40G so I don't know now. Now that might get the 57G I was shooting for a MP20, now I am thinking that will be to small.

In any case I envy your tank and DIY skills. I have to buy everything. :artist:
Thank you Uptown193. No I didn't go to MIT, I don't think they have any degrees in DIY :).

glasscages are OK. They are not perfect but they are good enough. Plus their price is right. And yes, they did use 1/2" glass for my tank. I don't know how heavy it is, but I can't lift it on my own (also because it is not easy to hold), so I'm guessing it is quite heavy.

As for the MP40, you can't put an MP10 on a 1/2" glass. I was initially planning to get two mp10s, but when I saw the 1/2" glass that changed my plans. The main reason I got a vortech was to keep it low profile inside the tank. The mp20 and MP40 are the exact same size, so it didn't make sense for me to buy the less powerful pump that would take the same amount of space. If you don't mind having regular power heads, go get a few koralias and few coral frags for the price of a vortech :). That being said, the vortech has a nice wide flow which slows down very fast when it hits something. And that's the main reason I say an mp40 is good for my tank. I keep it at 40%-50% on the right side of the tank and the flow is hitting a rock in the middle of the tank, so on the other side of the tank it is maybe even on the low flow side. I'm considering getting another 40 down the line, put both on the back wall and run them that way to create a really nice random flow. Either way the two mp40s are a good investment anyway, since they can work in big tanks, and also keep their value quite well.

Don't get me wrong, if I put the vortech on max, it is the power of Katrina + a sandstorm from Arrakis (Dune) packed up in my 40G tank. But that makes the pump quite noisy as well.

At the end of the day it is up to your budget. If that's not a problem, just get the best and dial it down.
 
Few updates from the weekend

Few updates from the weekend

I cleaned up my electrical section from this:
normal_40B_063.jpg


to this:
normal_40B_092.jpg


Now I have all that room on the floor to put my 5G bucket with all the frequently used maintenance items like scrubber, heater for new water, pump for mixing new salt water etc.

Also I rewired my LEDs and driver->led with Cat5e cable and changed all interconnects with RJ45s. Now disconnecting/connecting things is much simpler.


Also, after seeing Joe's new sump, I decided to have mine rebuilt properly with a few dimension changes so that I can tuck it in one corner of the stand and have some free space there as well. So from this (constructed by me from 3/32" plexi from HD):
normal_40B_094.jpg


I moved to this - 3/8" outside, 1/4" black baffles:
normal_40B_093.jpg


I added 2 inches height, took 1 inch depth and added 1 inch to the RO/DI section so that it can hold 2 weeks worth of fresh water (instead of 10 days).


So again the main reason I got the new sump was because the old one was 1/4" deeper and was not able to do this:
normal_40B_098.jpg


As a result I had 3-4" in both sides of the sump which is not very useful, now I have 8" of space which is a different story.

So after cleaning all the equipment and reinstalling everything, here is what it looks like under my tank now:
normal_40B_102.jpg
 
Looking good! You may want to add teeth to that overflow back into the return from the fuge, else you will get snails heading for the return section (why i added them from my prop section). And you don't want them messing with your float valves. :) Looks like another Advanced Acrylics winner there!
 
Actually teeth are useless :) At least against my snails. I had teeth on the previous sump and all my snails managed to get out of it. That's why I didn't bother with them this time. Maybe a mistake, but I'm not worried about it. As for the float switches, my ATO controller can take care of snail events :)
 
Ahh forgot about your failsafe timing events.. Yeah Nerites suck in that manner. I keep the turbos in the prop and fuge section. They go to the top and the teeth stop them.
 
Use a piece of eggcrete from the top of the baffle to the top of the sump. No way their going to get over it. Looks great.
 
Nice build, the fact that most of it is DIY, is even better.

I must have missed something in the pictures. I see the drain line going to the skimmer section of the sump, but how is the fuge fed? Just curious because I am getting ready to retro a 30 gallon for a sump under my 90, and would like to set it up similar to yours.
 
Jeff, I don't care if they move around, I doubt they can do any damage. I will, however, cover my RO/DI section. Don't want suicidal snails making me to dose Ammonia enriched RO/DI water :)

Chrome239, the fuge is fed from the return pump with a T. Two valves regulate the flow distribution between DT and Fuge:
normal_40B_096.jpg
 
Merry Christmas everyone!

Just wanted to post the new par readings with the tighter optics. As I said before, it basically doubled the par over the rocks (middle section of the tank) and cut the light on the glass to 1/2-1/3 which I think is ideal. I don't want light on the glass, but over the rocks.

Anyway, here it is:
par_compared.jpg
 
Georgi - GREAT documentation! Thanks.

This is going to give you more variance in the light... which could be a good thing, since there can be a pretty wide variance in light needs. I find it interesting that in the middle, the difference between just under the surface and the bottom is barely 100 par. I assume that's primarily a function of a 40 breeder being a somewhat shallow tank... That's what, maybe 16 inches of water?

So, from what I'm seeing here, your light hungry corals will on the island in the middle, and the less light needy will be around the edges. Is that the plan?
 
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