Green bubble tip anemone

TAANG

New member
Hello all, I have been having some trouble with my green bubble tip anemone. I've had it for about 3 weeks now, and it has never really seemed to look right to me. This is my first anemone, so I'm looking got answers. When first purchased, out would shrivel up and expel brown stuff from it's mouth. I assumed this was waste. It usually kept it's mouth closed unless it was eating or expelling. The last few days it has been moving around the tank, looking for the perfect spot to live. After being gone a few hours today, I come home to find it almost at the top of the rock, shriveled up, mouth open and it's skin appears to be coming off. Clear fleshy looking material around the bubble tips. The mouth seems to be puckered and protruding. When I saw this, I did an immediate 5% water change. Out has been eating phytoplankton I spot feed it twice a week. The water parameters are perfect, everything else is thriving, including a mushroom coral, orange sea whip, and rock anemone. I have a 20gal tank which is about 6 months old with 23 pounds of live rock nd 1. inch live sand bed . My lighting should be more than enough for this size tank. Someone, please help!
 
Here is the picture.
 

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What exactly are your water parameters? Bad water = unhappy anemone. What kind of lights are you running. Anemone's don't usually eat phyto, you can give it mysis/pellets. But yeah it definitely does not look good. Oh yeah how's the flow?
 
what are your water parameters? numbers help alot more than just saying perfect.

also what is your lighting?
 
Ammonia is 0ppm, nitrites are 0ppm, nitrates are <2ppm, phosphates are .01. Salinity is 1.025. My current lighting is a 108 watts t5. ATI true actinic and ATI coral plus. I don't have a copper test, but I only use RO/DI water tested with a TDS meter.
 
Yes, it was attached but we thought the same thing about it starting to rot. Removed the anemone from the rock and put it in a separation/breeder container incase it takes a turn for the worst and we need to remove it quickly before it can cause any damage. The anemone doesn't have a bad smell, as I have read that is a bad sign. The mouth is no longer open, but the skin still looks like out is falling off the foot.
 
What is your lighting? 20g is very tough to keep anemones, can be done, but tough. What did you feed it? To be honest, I wouldn't feed this anemone in such a small tank as it will foul the water quickly.
 
We fed phytoplankton at the instruction of the LFS. I left the lights off for 2 days to reduce a bit of cyano on the sand. Could that be the cause of the issue?
 
bta's eat meaty items, dont know why the LFS would tell you feed it phytoplankton. I wouldn't listen to their advice. Come here for information. Not knowing if you have a sump or skimmer but phytoplankton in that small of a tank can quickly foul water depending on the amount you used. What are your lights? looking at the picture the live rock looks fairly unestablished as well. Having been in this situation with BTA's, this will be a long road back to recovery...looks pretty beat up. I'd def keep the lights on, I'd check parameters daily. A 1 gallon daily water change wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
yeah stop feeding phyto. feed more mysis/silversides/pellets. lights on too and flow.What is the flow in your tank? You didn't state it yet.
 
The water flow is pretty strong. Maybe I'll get a second power head, to be safe. Would it new a good idea to try to feed the anemone right now, or is that to much added stress?
 
No, I would not feed it. I doubt it would take anything anyways. It would reallllly help us if you gave us more information about your lighting and flow, more than just good light and pretty strong.

Do you have a sump or protein skimmer? Or is it a biocube?
 
Don't worry. as long as your BTA mouth does not open up real big and it is still attached to the rock. just leave it there. I had an exactly same anemone as yours. It was doing fine for the first few days but after a few days it look real sick. All its guts coming out and it does not form any bubble anymore. After a week or two it split into two and both of them are doing fine now.
 
As far as equipment goes, we have an AquaticLife 115 mini protein skimmer in our overflow area, a rena xp2 filter which has, seachem matrix, flugen carbon, phosguard, and purigen, (no floss or anything other mechanical filtration in the canister) We have a heater to keep the water temperature at 76 degrees. Our lighting consists of a one dual t5 48” fixture equipped with ATI true actinic and coral plus bulbs.(108w) Currently have hydor Koralia 425 powerhead with the flow crossing the outflow of the canister filter, pointed toward the front glass. We are thinking of adding a second to minimize any remaining dead spots in the tank.
 
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