swimming in one spot being very still in one corner is pretty normal clown behaviour but hyper child twiching is not. if you do hyposalinity it will kill all ich in the system if done properly and long enough.
Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
swimming in one spot being very still in one corner is pretty normal clown behaviour but hyper child twiching is not. if you do hyposalinity it will kill all ich in the system if done properly and long enough.
Life is never easy....
I have my 3 tangs in my 55g QT, I used 2 sponges that were sitting in my one tank for months as the biological filter.
Reading on ammonia alert badge is showing as alert, reading on api test kit shows 0 <difficult to read>.
To be safe I changed out 20 gallons of water just to make sure the fish were okay.
I checked the alert badge again and still showing alert!
I am going to go buy a salifert test kit for ammonia to confirm. If I do have ammonia in the tank *** can I do!?? Only treatment I did so far is prazi-pro and it was only for 2 days.
I have my 3 tangs in my 55g QT, I used 2 sponges that were sitting in my one tank for months as the biological filter.
Reading on ammonia alert badge is showing as alert, reading on api test kit shows 0 <difficult to read>.
To be safe I changed out 20 gallons of water just to make sure the fish were okay.
I checked the alert badge again and still showing alert!
I am going to go buy a salifert test kit for ammonia to confirm. If I do have ammonia in the tank *** can I do!?? Only treatment I did so far is prazi-pro and it was only for 2 days.
clownfish06
New member
If you are starting out then what is the best way to go? Do start your Q T tank same time you are cycling your D T tank or before you start cycling your DT so you can add fish to Q T before DT is finished cycling?
filters u imported from DT probably had just enough bacteria to give you instant cycle but not enough to handle bio load of 3 tangs.
This is why i usually tell people to setup a tank and use the filters from DT and ghost feed the tank for 2-3 days and check for ammonia after 4th day. this process elevates the level of ammonia produced in tank which in return elevates the production of bacteria to consume the added ammonia. Then when ammonia is 0 introduce fish.
Anyways at this point just do water chnages daily till u hit ammonia 0 for sure.
it all depends on ammonia. if your registering .25 or less then every 50% will cut it to .125 or 100% to 0 or 25% to .18, i would try to keep ammonia as close to 0 as possible. i am pretty sure in day or two ur bacteria will catch up with ammonia and wont need no more water changes.
Prime is good only if he was not gonna do copper treatment for his tangs. Prime will react with cupramine and cause toxic poisoning. If you decide to go hypo then prime is ok to use.
This is a response to what Seachem had to say about prime with any copper medicine. My person experience also tells me the same.
"Actually, we do not recommend using any kind of de-chlorinator or ammonia binding products when using a copper-based medication. Such products are reducing agents and can reduce the medication into a toxic form of copper. When medicating, the best way to control ammonia, as well as nitrites and nitrates, is by doing small regular water changes. Of course, you will want to dose the replacement water with the medication to maintain the proper concentration."
"Actually, we do not recommend using any kind of de-chlorinator or ammonia binding products when using a copper-based medication. Such products are reducing agents and can reduce the medication into a toxic form of copper. When medicating, the best way to control ammonia, as well as nitrites and nitrates, is by doing small regular water changes. Of course, you will want to dose the replacement water with the medication to maintain the proper concentration."
crock921
New member
Quick check before i buy livestock for my QT
It is newly set up. Been cycling about a week. Simple HOB filter with floss and carbon (which will be removed when I start prazi).
500ml matrix bio filtration is sitting in a bag right next to the HOB so it has lots of flow.
salinity is about 1.025
ph 8.0
NH3: 0
NO2: .5
NO3: 40
temp 81
I have been dosing with Stability for about a week, so I think there is a fair amount of BB. I also had the bio portions of the HOB in my DT for a few weeks.
I never saw a NH3 spike because this is the first test Ive done.
My concern is obviously the NO2. Too high for a clown pair and royal gramma?
The NO3 will drop when I do my first water change, so Im not too concerned about that part of it.
I dont plan on dosing copper unless I see a need for it as I monitor the QT.
It is newly set up. Been cycling about a week. Simple HOB filter with floss and carbon (which will be removed when I start prazi).
500ml matrix bio filtration is sitting in a bag right next to the HOB so it has lots of flow.
salinity is about 1.025
ph 8.0
NH3: 0
NO2: .5
NO3: 40
temp 81
I have been dosing with Stability for about a week, so I think there is a fair amount of BB. I also had the bio portions of the HOB in my DT for a few weeks.
I never saw a NH3 spike because this is the first test Ive done.
My concern is obviously the NO2. Too high for a clown pair and royal gramma?
The NO3 will drop when I do my first water change, so Im not too concerned about that part of it.
I dont plan on dosing copper unless I see a need for it as I monitor the QT.
Hi Crock921
Everything looks fine and on right track. Please do a little test for me. Just ghost feed the tank today with enough food for about 3 medium fish. Then do ammonia test tomorrow about same time. If ammonia is still 0 then ur very near on end of cycle. Do check nitrites as well, if I am right u probably have enough bacteria to cycle ammonia to nitrites but not enough to cycle nitrites to nitrates as they are 2 separate types of bacteria.
If u find ammonia tomorrow then let it all cycle before buying any livestock.
Good luck
Everything looks fine and on right track. Please do a little test for me. Just ghost feed the tank today with enough food for about 3 medium fish. Then do ammonia test tomorrow about same time. If ammonia is still 0 then ur very near on end of cycle. Do check nitrites as well, if I am right u probably have enough bacteria to cycle ammonia to nitrites but not enough to cycle nitrites to nitrates as they are 2 separate types of bacteria.
If u find ammonia tomorrow then let it all cycle before buying any livestock.
Good luck
I take a small bucket of water from the DT then I net the little fella with my copper net from QT and put him in the bucket of water from DT then pour him into the DT or you can net him again with a DT net.
Make sure your parameters are the same. My QT and DT are always the same when I'm ready to move the fish. ( temp & sg )
Make sure your parameters are the same. My QT and DT are always the same when I'm ready to move the fish. ( temp & sg )
you guys are forgetting 1 point.
after copper treatment you need to use cuprisorb and carbon along with water changes to reduce copper down to 0. then you need to observe the fish over few more weeks to make sure treatment has worked. meanwhile getting the water as close to DT in parameters.
Once you have observed and made parameters match very closely fro QT to DT then take a bucket of DT water , using dedicated net for qt, get the fish out from qt to bucket and then dedicated net for DT get the fish out to DT.
i hope this helps.
after copper treatment you need to use cuprisorb and carbon along with water changes to reduce copper down to 0. then you need to observe the fish over few more weeks to make sure treatment has worked. meanwhile getting the water as close to DT in parameters.
Once you have observed and made parameters match very closely fro QT to DT then take a bucket of DT water , using dedicated net for qt, get the fish out from qt to bucket and then dedicated net for DT get the fish out to DT.
i hope this helps.
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