haddons carpet question..

kaimarkhirst

kaimarkhirst

New member
About 6 or so months I aquired (or rather rescued) a small juvvy haddons carpet anemone from a corner of my local Dealers tank which hed had at least 4 months. He was small, mottled brown color healthy and sticky.

Anyway, months on. Hes settled, changing color to the usual green zooalgae color (slowly) and hosting a (pain in the behind, posessive and nippy) clownfish. Hes also doubled in size..

The problem ive got, is that hes not sticky anymore. Hes not bleached and has green tips (visually seen via mesoscope) so hes healthy and a voracous eater, but why is he not sticky anymore?

Any ideas?
 
Is it never sticky? They can (( at least IME )) "turn off" their stickiness once in a while. However, if it is never sticky then something is wrong.

Have a pic?

Some tank info would be helpful,
Size,
Parameter -- with numbers
Lights.
 
haddons pics

haddons pics

tank specs...

125g deep tank...
Deltec ap601 skimmer
3 x 150w halides, 6 x 54w pl blues, 156 1w blue leds all on an aquatronica light processor

Params..
Sg 1.024
nitrite .05
Ammonia .005
Nitrate 5
Magnesium 1200
Calcium 420
Copper 0
silicates .4
Phosphates .6

Phosphates and silicates are high as someone used std tap water instead of ro to top off.

Tank stable for a year before adding him...

Here are the pics..

This is the mist recent one with his host

picture.php


This is an early one when i first got him

picture.php



This is another earlyish one after he got settled.

picture.php


He gets fed 4 times per week, has not moved at all after he got settled. One thing that did happen was that the collare butterfly decimated him aver a couple of days before the clown came to the rescue. Before this, the clown never hosted him at all.

He is slightly sticky as food does stick to him on the outer area and he does respond by closing up, so he responds well and is changing colour nicely from his brown to green striped colour.

Hope this helps shed some light on him,

Kai
 
Actually, based off the pictures it appears your Haddoni has lost zooxabthellae algae. It could be just the picture though. If it's losing it's stickiness and losing color then it's slowly dying. Your lighting maybe a little inadequate. 150 mh on a 125 deep tank isn't that much.
 
2Addicted said:
It says he has 3 x 150w mh which is 450w thats plenty of light.
Click to expand...

I realize that BUT he doesn't have all 450 watts of light over the Haddoni, it's all displaced throughout the tank which isn't nearly the same. The Haddoni would be better off sitting under one 400 watt lamp in the tank then having 3 150 watts displaced.
 
NoBigDeal said:
I realize that BUT he doesn't have all 450 watts of light over the Haddoni, it's all displaced throughout the tank which isn't nearly the same. The Haddoni would be better off sitting under one 400 watt lamp in the tank then having 3 150 watts displaced.
Click to expand...

Yes it would be better off but it is not necessary. IMO he has enough light.
 
stands to reason that if there wasnt enough light he would be alot paler now, or bleached or dead. Before i got him he was in a tank under 250w halides that were 4 ft above the tank, and he was at the bottom of a 1.5ft tank, so I should imagine thw lighting is sufficient...

Yes the photos arent the best in the world and under the mesoscope and some polyps are cream, but most are luminous green tipped. This is clearly visible under the blue leds, but they arent all green so my question is as it grows, will they all go green?

overall i cant really accept that hes dying as hes eating well, responding well when feeding and theres no dieoff, placement movement, or gaping mouth. Im not looking for the best opinion and leave it there, but a solid opinion that i can go on. Its certainly not the lighting as hes been under these for 6 months now and grown nicely.
 
What are you feeding it?

Something is off, if you are feeding it as much as you say, and have had if for 6 months, it should be a lot bigger.
 
2Addicted said:
Yes it would be better off but it is not necessary. IMO he has enough light.
Click to expand...

If he has enough light and is feeding it as much as he says he is the anemone should be much bigger as Todd stated and colored up by now. If you were to throw a 400 watt halide over this Haddoni I guarantee you would see changes within a few weeks. Three 150 watt metal halide fixtures over a 125 gallon deep isn't what you call the ideal lighting situation. Just my .002.

stands to reason that if there wasnt enough light he would be alot paler now, or bleached or dead
Click to expand...

Not true at all. It can take months and months for anemones to die off sometimes. You'd be surprised how slow it can take one to finally kick in the dust. This is why most people on here make theads such as "Anemone suddenly sick, why?" Some don't realize how long it can take for one to wither away. By the time they realize, it's usually too late.
 
Last edited:
How do I select the proper wattage metal halide bulb in relation to aquarium depth?
The depth of an aquarium affects light penetration and light intensity.
175 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 20' deep or mixed corals with a few SPS and clams placed high in aquarium.

250 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 30' deep with mixed corals including SPS and clams.

400 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 48' deep or a dedicated SPS and clam aquarium.

And this is only down to a 175. A 150 would be even less. You said it was barely survivng after 4 months 4ft from a light. So why is 6 months barely survivng slightly better a good thing and indication that your lighting is sufficient?
 
kaimarkhirst said:
tank specs...

125g deep tank...
Deltec ap601 skimmer
3 x 150w halides, 6 x 54w pl blues, 156 1w blue leds all on an aquatronica light processor

Params..
Sg 1.024
nitrite .05
Ammonia .005
Nitrate 5
Magnesium 1200
Calcium 420
Copper 0
silicates .4
Phosphates .6

Phosphates and silicates are high as someone used std tap water instead of ro to top off.

Tank stable for a year before adding him...

Here are the pics..

This is the mist recent one with his host

picture.php


This is an early one when i first got him

picture.php



This is another earlyish one after he got settled.

picture.php


He gets fed 4 times per week, has not moved at all after he got settled. One thing that did happen was that the collare butterfly decimated him aver a couple of days before the clown came to the rescue. Before this, the clown never hosted him at all.

He is slightly sticky as food does stick to him on the outer area and he does respond by closing up, so he responds well and is changing colour nicely from his brown to green striped colour.

Hope this helps shed some light on him,

Kai
Click to expand...

Whats your DKH ?
 
Everything I have seen indicates that these are a HIGH light animal, indicating they should be at the higher end of the wattage spectrum anyway. And I haven't seen anybody with a brown carpet nem. Green, blue, purple, etc, with pretty bubbly tips. I don't think he's healthy my friend.
And whats with the Ammonia and nitrites?!?! Whats going on?
 
glextank said:
How do I select the proper wattage metal halide bulb in relation to aquarium depth?
The depth of an aquarium affects light penetration and light intensity.
175 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 20' deep or mixed corals with a few SPS and clams placed high in aquarium.

250 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 30' deep with mixed corals including SPS and clams.

400 Watt - Recommended for aquariums up to 48' deep or a dedicated SPS and clam aquarium.

And this is only down to a 175. A 150 would be even less. You said it was barely survivng after 4 months 4ft from a light. So why is 6 months barely survivng slightly better a good thing and indication that your lighting is sufficient?
Click to expand...

Exactly my point. Why try to pass with the minimum conditions to keep an animal alive? You should strive for the optimum.
 
Honestly, I don't think the lights are the issues here. Sure 250's would be better, but the 150's aren't causing this. One of my Haddonis has been with me for 12 years, and for the first 2-3 years I had it it was under PCs
 
Toddrtrex said:
Honestly, I don't think the lights are the issues here. Sure 250's would be better, but the 150's aren't causing this. One of my Haddonis has been with me for 12 years, and for the first 2-3 years I had it it was under PCs
Click to expand...

Not trying to be argumentative here but I do recall you saying when you switched out your PC lights to metal halides you saw changes pretty quickly correct? In addition, the tank you had them in was more shallow then the OP's? I'm not discounting what you are saying, I'm just saying right now the most obvious thing IMO is the lighting issue. It would be difficult to say that if the OP were to hypothetically switch to more intense Halides little difference would be made in regards to the Haddoni's health. I could be completely wrong though as I have been before. There could be some other underlying factor that's causing this Haddoni to be acting up.
 
It did look better, but it was under those PCs (( both in a 58 and a 75 )) for 2-3 years -- if that amount of light was awful it wouldn't have lived for that amount of time.

So, 3*150 plus the 6 T5's over a 125 isn't the end of the world. Like I stated, it would be better with more lights, but I don't feel that lack of light is the root cause of this.
 
Agree with Todd on the lighting. I had one for four or five years in my 72bow with PC's and had no problems at all. It continued to grow and thrive right up until I broke the tank down.
What and how much are you feeding?
 
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