Halide Q & A

Hi guys, just a quick question. Could I use a 24'' Marineland Series light with 150 watt HQI, and 4 24 watt T5 HO over a 60 gallon (24'' by 24'' by 24'') SPS dominated tank with enough light for all them?

Thanks!
 
Hi all,
I have been running 8x39w T5 lighting over my 95 reef. I had chosen the t5 simply because of the "heat" factor that everyone seems to refer to.

The T5 lights are ok for me as I only keep softies in their. Even with T5, it seems to still be a little intense for my BTA.

So, I have a few questions about MH.

Heat is obviously a concern, but what about costs?
I hear and read about MH users' astronomical electric bills.

Since electric bills are based on kwh....would not a 250w MH cost the same as to run 250w of any other lighting? I always thought a WATT is a WATT, no matter how it is generated.
What am I missing here with the cost argument?

Are the higher costs due to running a chiller maybe?


Another question i have is about what MH to get if i change over?

I was thinking of a 250w 14k system, for a touch more "blue."

Also, SE or DE bulbs? Pros and cons?

The tanks is 36 x 24 x 24.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Last edited:
Pchromis said:
Hi all,
I have been running 8x39w T5 lighting over my 95 reef. I had chosen the t5 simply because of the "heat" factor that everyone seems to refer to.

The T5 lights are ok for me as I only keep softies in their. Even with T5, it seems to still be a little intense for my BTA.

So, I have a few questions about MH.

Heat is obviously a concern, but what about costs?
I hear and read about MH users' astronomical electric bills.

I have all kinds of stuff going including 3 250w and 2 150w, we pay around $400.00 a month, not really out of line for Texas with 2 AC units.

Since electric bills are based on kwh....would not a 250w MH cost the same as to run 250w of any other lighting? I always thought a WATT is a WATT, no matter how it is generated.
What am I missing here with the cost argument?

I think you are correct, there maybe something to be said for electronic vs magnetic.

Are the higher costs due to running a chiller maybe?

Yes, chillers are actually counter productive, unless properly returned and vented. (outside to outside)


Another question i have is about what MH to get if i change over?

I was thinking of a 250w 14k system, for a touch more "blue."

Also, SE or DE bulbs? Pros and cons?

The tanks is 36 x 24 x 24.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...

Not sure on DE vs SE, DE is slighty over driven, I think. Good on W and K. I like SE in quality reflector 14" or more above water. I modified my CAP last year to hang from ceiling.

I like MH for shimmer and personally think the single point source allows me adjust light to coral a bit. T5 in theory would be same PAR in entire tank.



There are plenty of guys running sps tanks with T5s.
 
I have a 300g reef tank and have run 250w DE Phoenix14k and Giesmann 14.5k running on BlueWave ballasts.

Liked the look of the Phoenix but the "penetration" to the tank floor wasnt good. Have a birds nest that grew but stayed brownish. Put the Giesmanns in and the color was much whiter and the birds nest turned pink and growth overall was good. Now after about 7 months i am seeing that the tops of a lot of the corals (those areas facing up) are starting to bleach.

Couple questions?

Could the Giesmanns have "changed" in a way that is causing the bleaching?

If I was to change bulbs I dont want to go back to the Phoenix as I said the penetration wasnt that good. Looking at XM 20ks or the new 15ks...

What other sugestions?

Thanks
Jim Mc
 
So here is my deal... I run T5s but I think MH is beyond the way to go ... I'm building a canopy for my bow front soon and wanna make my own MH T5 combo I don't wanna have more the a 150 on my tank but due to center brace i can't run one bulb in the middle so I would like to run a 70 watt on one side and another 70 on the other side and then run 5 39 watt T5s. So my question is what 2 bulbs should I use and can I run the both off one ballast? If so what kind?
 
Im running 2x400w single ended 20k BLV on my 650L. They a bit over a year old and not that bright. I also run 4x54w t5, 2x20k and 2x10 t5. Im have to change soon and thinking of the BLV 10k or 14k which will be more brighter. Reason why BLV because its the most cost effective bulb available in South Africa. Around the same price I can get the Venture Halides in 10k or 20k. Is it true the BLV 10k the highest par bulb available and long lasting? Ok forgot to say im running the halides on magnetic ballasts, cant afford the electronic at the moment.
 
I got the new lighting set up and running and the color of the Phoenix 250W 14,000K is very a crisp, bright blue. I see no need for any additional color, just enough blue. Ill try to post pics later. The Reeflex Cubes lit the bulbs right up and the Lumen Max 3 seems to spread the light quite well . I got the hanging kit which makes setting the height very easy.

2 - 250W Reeflex Cube
HQI Ballast M80
by Aqua Medi
http://www.aquacave.com/250w-reeflex...edic-2262.html


2 - Lumen Max 3 HQI Metal
Halide Pendant by Sunlight
Supply Lamp Socket Size: : 250W HQI
http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=1139


2 - Phoenix 250W 14,000K Metal
Halide Lamp, Double Ended
http://www.aquacave.com/phoenix-250w...ended-399.html
 
So this probably sounds really stupid, but I was moving things around and the part of the plug that goes into the ballast fell into a bucket of water. It was probably in there for a little over a minute when I noticed it. I haven't plugged it back in yet as I am slightly worried. Am i screwed? or do I just need to let it dry out?
 
Jormungandr said:
So this probably sounds really stupid, but I was moving things around and the part of the plug that goes into the ballast fell into a bucket of water. It was probably in there for a little over a minute when I noticed it. I haven't plugged it back in yet as I am slightly worried. Am i screwed? or do I just need to let it dry out?
Click to expand...

:dance:Naw just let it dry.
 
So Im setting up a new tank and found this killer deal on some Dual PFO Pendants. Each pendant has 2 single end 400w MH's and 2 T12 Actenics and moon lights. I bought both pendants, 2 Dual MH's PFO Ballasts and Dual PFO ballast for the 4 T12's. I plan on putting this over a 180g reef tank. I will never have all 4 MH's running at one time, there will only be two going at one time. I will start at one end of the tank and through out the day they will slowing cycle to the other side. The 4 T12 will be on from all day until the night cycle begins.

What are you thoughts on this?
 
Based on this info tell me what i need to build a hood :) can i get links to the stuff too.

* Watt: 175w
* Kelvin Temp: 20,000 Kelvin
* 8.5" x 1.8 (H x W)
* Base: E39 Mogul Base
* Shape: T-Bulb Shape
Universal Burn Position
Single-Ended Metal halide bulb
Distinct Bulb Tint Full Spectrum Light
Blue Ocean depths effect
* for traditional probe-start metal halide ballasts with an ANSI code of
M57, M58&M59 and Mogul-base socket fixtures
 
Metal Halides

Metal Halides

I have a 79 L x 22 W x 27 H tank.. What halides should I use? Can I go with 250w MH or should I use 2 400w MH with lumenbright reflectors placed high above the tank so as to get more coverage. I would want to put lps,softies at the bottom of the tank, then sps at the upper part.
 
its a 10 gal tank just bought a 24" T5 Aquarium Light Marine Reef Cichlid 96W Lunar, it has a quietflow 10 aquarium power filter and tryn to find a good power head for it. the tank is about a week old. so im tryn to get it all set up
 
Hamilton Cebu Sun

Hamilton Cebu Sun

Does anyone have a Cebu Sun fixture? Hamilton makes them. Just wondering if they are a good fixture. Price seems right.
 
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