has any one had there syphon overflow break? or is that a rare thing?
- Thread starter teena
- Start date
graveyardworm
Premium Member
It's the tank side that get's exposed, both (actually J) tubes came with it.
graveyardworm
Premium Member
I've got an idea, what if instead of shortening the longer one. I glue in a piece of acrylic just tall enugh to seperate the tubes so one can draw down lower than the other one without affecting it.
That's kind of a tough one. The drain box side would be easy to fix with a standpipe. Sometimes raising the level in the rear will also prevent the tank side from dropping as far. Can you put in a taller standpipe in the rear as a test?
Other options
Will one U Tube handle the flow? If so, just run a single tube.
Cut the tubes so they are the same length. I would first try the short one by itself and make sure it doesn't get exposed during power down.
Other options
Will one U Tube handle the flow? If so, just run a single tube.
Cut the tubes so they are the same length. I would first try the short one by itself and make sure it doesn't get exposed during power down.
Paintbug
New member
the level in either side should not even get low enough to matter if ones a little shorter. do you have a peice of PVC coming up from the bulkhead on the drain side? how long is it? thats where the water levels are controlled. once the power/pump is off, the water in the tank should lower until its below the overflow. then the flow stops. at this point both boxes should have water levels higher than the u-tube ends.
graveyardworm
Premium Member
In the drain side the tubes go down into a section seperate from where the drains are located which keeps the water on that end well above the tubes, but it doesnt keep the water higher on that side than the tube ends on the tank side, so tomorrow I'll have to get what I need to raise the drains so the water stays above the tube ends on the tank side. It's all becoming clearer now. Thanks
ohioreef
Active member
I have an Amiracle overflow and my U-tube is the same length on both sides. I didn't realize that you have 2 tubes. I think you hit the nail on the head when you said the 2nd tube is continuing to draw down the water until the first tube is exposed on the short end thus breaking the siphon.
This is what we have. We've drilled holes that are covered when the tank is running, but when the tank shuts off (due to power outage, etc) the holes are exposed. The water from the overflow drains down to the sump until it's below the overflow box and it fills the sump, but not enough to overflow the sump.
Does that make any sense?
examiner
New member
If this is your first experience w/ overflows and sumps...I hate to say it, but you'll probably overflow something at some point. I'd guess 50+% of first-timers do it. That's why I always recommend, if possible, you set the tank up w/ fresh water someplace like the garage while you tune the pumps, match flows, etc. etc.
I have a siphon overflow on my 58, and it never breaks flow, even with a power outage. (Lifereef, great product) As mentioned, good flow through the tube prevents bubbles from building up. Be aware that other things could potentially cause a failure, including snails, large chunks of macro algae, etc. You need to put guards in place to prevent these types of disasters.
My first year in the hobby, I got the carpet wet alot. Hasn't happened lately. Despite that, checking the overflow is still the first thing I do every morning.
I have a siphon overflow on my 58, and it never breaks flow, even with a power outage. (Lifereef, great product) As mentioned, good flow through the tube prevents bubbles from building up. Be aware that other things could potentially cause a failure, including snails, large chunks of macro algae, etc. You need to put guards in place to prevent these types of disasters.
My first year in the hobby, I got the carpet wet alot. Hasn't happened lately. Despite that, checking the overflow is still the first thing I do every morning.
Driftwood
New member
You can go with a float switch in your main tank. If the water level rises, it will cut off your return pump. I have this in place. I bought the float valves for $12 on ebay and they even had the suction cups and mounting bracket needed to stick it to the aquarium wall. I have a wier type overflow and it works fine. Sometime air bubbles collect and I have to suck them out with the airline, but I will buy a airlifter for it soon and that problem will go away.
You need to have holes drilled in your return line just below the water surface. This will break the syphon created when power is lost to your return pump. Preventing your main tank water from overflowing your sump.
I have another switch to put in the sump that I will use for an auto top-off.
Works perfectly... Best of luck!
You need to have holes drilled in your return line just below the water surface. This will break the syphon created when power is lost to your return pump. Preventing your main tank water from overflowing your sump.
I have another switch to put in the sump that I will use for an auto top-off.
Works perfectly... Best of luck!
