Has anyone made an LED driver based on LM3463 6 channel driver IC?
- Thread starter tomservo
- Start date
I'd love to find something "off the shelf", but being that computers are constantly evolving, a VGA cooler design that may lend itself nicely for my use on this project "today", may not be available "tomorrow". I've seen it happen before. I designed a PcB a few years ago that was meant to pair with a specific VGA cooler model. Before I'd even built the first PcB, the VGA cooler was obsolete and no longer available. LOL
LOL- I'm gonna "play it safe" this time around and corner the market on those little copper RAM chip heat sinks. I just ordered another 100 of em'.
Burrrrrrrrrr! Snow! Out here in the "Land of Fruits & Nuts" it's Sunny & 75F, with not a cloud in sight. LOL
My component cost for the little LDD-H clone is about $8 per driver.
The big 5 channel costs about $45 with the SCW05-12 included.
I'm saving money by buying in bulk Vs. someone looking to copy the project and buying components- only in the amounts that they personally need, but I'm laying down a lot more cash up front.
LOL I won't even get into R&D costs on this one. I just chalk up those $$ to the cost of entertainment.:lolspin:
LOL- You're welcome to visit, but by Law, You're required to take someone with you, when you leave.:rollface:
Good Morning O2,...question for you. I'm going to need 4 - 5up boards for my 100w DC's...if I need 4 resistors @ channel = 20@board x 4 = 80 plus 1 spare board, I'm at 100 from Digi-Key and on the 50W boards (4 total) = 80 resistors. Sooooo looks like two 100 cut tapes from DK.(no problem)
Now on the DK site I can get the resistors at .143 for the 1400ma channels, and these are what the calculator calls for, but you have .13 linked. I can get .14 from DK at $14.98@ 100, and they have .143 that the calculator calls for, but the .143 are $17.02@ 100. How critical is the resistor number to get to 1400ma?
For the 700ma,... calculator says .286, and DK has them at the $14.98@ 100
So I'm just trying to figure what all I can get at DK. Did you get the A6211's from them also? Thanks,---Rick
Now on the DK site I can get the resistors at .143 for the 1400ma channels, and these are what the calculator calls for, but you have .13 linked. I can get .14 from DK at $14.98@ 100, and they have .143 that the calculator calls for, but the .143 are $17.02@ 100. How critical is the resistor number to get to 1400ma?
For the 700ma,... calculator says .286, and DK has them at the $14.98@ 100
So I'm just trying to figure what all I can get at DK. Did you get the A6211's from them also? Thanks,---Rick
@007Bond --
A friend of mine is thinking of using the LUMI Leds like the DC I think. How are you liking them? I know my buddy want to do an arduino to control the color spectrum to get either 10k,14k and 20k just in programming alone.I'm not sure it can be done by naked eye though.
A friend of mine is thinking of using the LUMI Leds like the DC I think. How are you liking them? I know my buddy want to do an arduino to control the color spectrum to get either 10k,14k and 20k just in programming alone.I'm not sure it can be done by naked eye though.
I'm planning on using DC's mainly from the info off the multi chip thread here on RC. You can also push a 100w DC to 252w if you want. My tank is deep, so I want the option to drive them harder if needed. I'm going to get a par meter also, as I think its an important tool when building these DYI fixtures. I know there are some comparison threads if you google the two. There seems to be valid arguments for both chips
Hiya O2,
Here's my 4up version for the A6211 that I'll still clean up on the input side of things by using a P4 screw terminal for the PWM inputs, Possibly a P5 to include 1 GND from the controller too. What do you think of using a telephone jack to make it look nice and perty for the PWM signals...lol
5cm x 10cm
Here's my 4up version for the A6211 that I'll still clean up on the input side of things by using a P4 screw terminal for the PWM inputs, Possibly a P5 to include 1 GND from the controller too. What do you think of using a telephone jack to make it look nice and perty for the PWM signals...lol
5cm x 10cm
Hey Delta,...here is the board O2 designed for me. I'm 99% sure I'm going to mount the driver at each fixture,...so I have a 10 pin molex for the DC one cat5 to go back to my controller, pwm's and GND Then a second one for power.(parallel 4 and 4) and a third cat. (one end cut off at the fixture but the other will plug in at my controller) back to controller also for fan and 18B20's. ---Rick
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21856414&postcount=91
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21856414&postcount=91
Hiya O2,
Here's my 4up version for the A6211 that I'll still clean up on the input side of things by using a P4 screw terminal for the PWM inputs, Possibly a P5 to include 1 GND from the controller too. What do you think of using a telephone jack to make it look nice and perty for the PWM signals...lol
5cm x 10cm
That looks good! There is one thing that I'd change though. Do away with the tiny "Vias" under each chip and use the biggest one that'll fit. That way you can solder the thermal pad of the chip from the "back side" of the PcB. Keeping the little buggers "cool" is the most important thing to pay attention to.
I'm in the middle of making revisions to my current 5 channel design. I've managed to squeeze the components close enough to allow the PcB to comfortably fit the Maker's Heat sink without "shorting" against it. I'm still debating whether to add additional features- or- leave it alone? I'm tempted to cram in an Arduino "Pro-Mini", a 5V regulator, and DS1307RTC or a 10V Analog to 5V PWM convertor? Decisions, decisions? LOL:headwalls:
