Has anyone tried making DIY high power LED fixtures using the nanometer speific LEDs from Cree or Chanzan, or any other manufacturer?

larryforehand

New member
Just wondered if anyone else had tried to design and build aN led fixture with specific spectrum LED's available from various manufacturers. Like many, I have various old VHO, T5, and compact fluorescent fixtures that could be gutted and retrofitted with a little soldering and wiring, and, of course, about a hundred 3 to five watt LED's. Just curious as to what's been done.
 
I’m sure it’s been done but, doing so is way above my skill set.
 
I built mine roughly 12 years ago with products from rapidled…I think the heat sinks came from heat sink USA.com . Carlo at rapidled can advise you on what you’ll need, but it really isn’t that difficult.
 
I built mine roughly 12 years ago with products from rapidled…I think the heat sinks came from heat sink USA.com . Carlo at rapidled can advise you on what you’ll need, but it really isn’t that difficult.
Yep, Rapidled is what I used as well. Their current offerings have shifted to weed but you can still get the individual led colors that benefit reef tanks. I forget the other led supplier people used to use - it had his first name in the title. I currently run DIY blue led strips as supplements but I just used Chinese 450nm and 470nm - did the job and have been running a couple years now.

Edit: Just remembered the other supplier was Stevesleds.

Just wondered if anyone else had tried to design and build aN led fixture with specific spectrum LED's available from various manufacturers. Like many, I have various old VHO, T5, and compact fluorescent fixtures that could be gutted and retrofitted with a little soldering and wiring, and, of course, about a hundred 3 to five watt LED's. Just curious as to what's been done.
Are you trying to replicate t5/Mh or other consumer led fixtures like Radion, etc.?
 
Last edited:
Yep, Rapidled is what I used as well. Their current offerings have shifted to weed but you can still get the individual led colors that benefit reef tanks. I forget the other led supplier people used to use - it had his first name in the title. I currently run DIY blue led strips as supplements but I just used Chinese 450nm and 470nm - did the job and have been running a couple years now.

Edit: Just remembered the other supplier was Stevesleds.


Are you trying to replicate t5/Mh or other consumer led fixtures like Radion, etc.?
Would like to end up with something like the spectrum of a Kessil500...not the physical configuration, but a strip light with heavy concentration of 365nm to the low 500's with strength enough to penetrate a 120 (4 x 2 x 2) with SPS adequate PAR. Don't want much do I?

The tank (120) I'm thinking of adding SPS to, currently has 8 HO T-5's (48" 54 w each), populated with soft corals, mushrooms, gorgonians, but no sps.
 
Would like to end up with something like the spectrum of a Kessil500...not the physical configuration, but a strip light with heavy concentration of 365nm to the low 500's with strength enough to penetrate a 120 (4 x 2 x 2) with SPS adequate PAR. Don't want much do I?

The tank (120) I'm thinking of adding SPS to, currently has 8 HO T-5's (48" 54 w each), populated with soft corals, mushrooms, gorgonians, but no sps.
If you are doing a striplight, then it's simple math (total forward voltage minus 3v for overhead up to the max of your driver) and your choice of diodes. I'm running 55 3w leds in series off one Mean Well HLG-185H at the moment for my dusk/dawn and some royal blue pop with my T5's. Penetrating 24 inches of water with sps adequate par will require lenses or LEDiL reflectors. Lenses will be destroyed over several months by sub 400nm leds , unless of course you can find glass lenses.

Have you measured your T5 par as it is? 8 bulbs is usually enough for just about anything especially if they are mostly ATI blue+.
 
Lenses will be destroyed over several months by sub 400nm leds , unless of course you can find glass lenses
I hadn’t considered the deterioration of the plastic lenses. Those are easily replaced and are cheap. I just fired up my light after ten years, and it’s still capable of bleaching corals. I have a bunch of extra lenses…I might swap out the old ones on the blues , but I don’t have a PAR meter to measure any difference.
 
I hadn’t considered the deterioration of the plastic lenses. Those are easily replaced and are cheap. I just fired up my light after ten years, and it’s still capable of bleaching corals. I have a bunch of extra lenses…I might swap out the old ones on the blues , but I don’t have a PAR meter to measure any difference.
I've never had a led lit tank deep enough to require lenses ( I also just keep easy corals), but I've noticed near 400nm that even the material of the diodes themselves gets discoloured after enough time.
 
Just wondered if anyone else had tried to design and build aN led fixture with specific spectrum LED's available from various manufacturers. Like many, I have various old VHO, T5, and compact fluorescent fixtures that could be gutted and retrofitted with a little soldering and wiring, and, of course, about a hundred 3 to five watt LED's. Just curious as to what's been done.
People have been building DIY reef lights since they came out..

Any search of this and other reefing forums will give you a ton of ways to do it and opinions..
The budget bruiser LED build...

I assume many links are banned here yet so just the one above.
There is a reef to reef mega thread.
36 pages..

General DIY LED thread​

 
Last edited:
No, RC has excepted it's part of a bigger community so links are fine.
Hey that's great. No more cryptic censorship. Was "kind of" fun..

On a personal note and kudos, this site was my "tutorial" on LED building and all things electronic. I owe it.
Unfortunately I'm a fw guy.
 
Last edited:
If you are doing a striplight, then it's simple math (total forward voltage minus 3v for overhead up to the max of your driver) and your choice of diodes. I'm running 55 3w leds in series off one Mean Well HLG-185H at the moment for my dusk/dawn and some royal blue pop with my T5's. Penetrating 24 inches of water with sps adequate par will require lenses or LEDiL reflectors. Lenses will be destroyed over several months by sub 400nm leds , unless of course you can find glass lenses.

Have you measured your T5 par as it is? 8 bulbs is usually enough for just about anything especially if they are mostly ATI blue+.
You are correct, I, too was expecting more light intensity from the T-5's. I did make one mistake, the fixture over the 120 only has 6 T-5 HO's. There are currently 2 pure actinics, 2 10,000k Odyssea, and 2 Giesman "purple" bulbs. The intensity measured by a waterproof Apogee sensor is approximately 270 at the surface (8" below the fixture), then reaching about 110 at the bottom. These are average readings of measurements taken throughout the tank at a given depth.
 

Attachments

  • 20231204_152016.jpg
    20231204_152016.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 21
My two cents...

It is a fools errand to build a DIY LED fixture in this day and age. There is really no upside. You wont save money, you wont build a better spectrum or higher output than you can buy. You will need some decent tools (a good soldering station, good solder, a good meter, plenty of "oops I burned it up" spare parts, good wire, etc.

You will need to pick your spectrum and your output levels for each channel or mess around with variable output drives. You will either have manual fixture or you will have to write your own software and/or build a microcontroller to run it all.

We did it back in the day because we COULD build better than we could buy and we could do it a lot cheaper.
 
My two cents...

It is a fools errand to build a DIY LED fixture in this day and age. There is really no upside. You wont save money, you wont build a better spectrum or higher output than you can buy. You will need some decent tools (a good soldering station, good solder, a good meter, plenty of "oops I burned it up" spare parts, good wire, etc.

You will need to pick your spectrum and your output levels for each channel or mess around with variable output drives. You will either have manual fixture or you will have to write your own software and/or build a microcontroller to run it all.

We did it back in the day because we COULD build better than we could buy and we could do it a lot cheaper.
Well the half empty approach..
Yea you probably won't be able to build as cheap as say the Nicrew or Noopsyche but certainly can build for cheaper than the $9/watt Radions, Mitras, Geiseman.

Def won't look as pretty.

100W of leds is still about $100 even for quality.
Coralux, Steves controllers are still out there.
Ldd's are still cheap as are power supplies.

The MAIN advantage would be to tailor the output at 100% to the spectrum you like. Throwing out 25% of a radions potential is annoying.
And being self constructed, if you screw up the spectrum it is cheaper to modify it than buy new lights .

So a bit of glass 1/2 full..

No probably at best break even unless one goes really dirt cheap like fleabay $$2/10 "3w" leds.

Throwing the light in a hood and cosmetics are inconsequential.
 
Well the half empty approach..
Yea you probably won't be able to build as cheap as say the Nicrew or Noopsyche but certainly can build for cheaper than the $9/watt Radions, Mitras, Geiseman.

Def won't look as pretty.

100W of leds is still about $100 even for quality.
Coralux, Steves controllers are still out there.
Ldd's are still cheap as are power supplies.

The MAIN advantage would be to tailor the output at 100% to the spectrum you like. Throwing out 25% of a radions potential is annoying.
And being self constructed, if you screw up the spectrum it is cheaper to modify it than buy new lights .

So a bit of glass 1/2 full..

No probably at best break even unless one goes really dirt cheap like fleabay $$2/10 "3w" leds.

Throwing the light in a hood and cosmetics are inconsequential.
Yeah, I just looked at rapidled…I can still build a really nice and powerful light for a lot less money than a high quality light off the shelf. The sacrifice is connectivity. For me, having everything linked up through an app is of minor importance. Once I get the lights running at the output that I want, it’s unlikely that I’d ever need or want to make any adjustments. The options available on the high end light systems are simply more than I would be willing to pay for.
 
Yup. Here's DIY instructiuons I have posted on the local forum and a review by Dana Riddle and measured 3500 PAR with 16º lenses and 45 watts. The spectrum is easily custamizable and custom LED "Stars" can be ordered if a unique spectrum is needed. I used the same configuration but multiplied several times over to illuminate this system:

 

Attachments

  • DIY 3500 PAR Cannon.pdf
    2.4 MB · Views: 36
Yeah, I just looked at rapidled…I can still build a really nice and powerful light for a lot less money than a high quality light off the shelf. The sacrifice is connectivity. For me, having everything linked up through an app is of minor importance. Once I get the lights running at the output that I want, it’s unlikely that I’d ever need or want to make any adjustments. The options available on the high end light systems are simply more than I would be willing to pay for.
If you have an Apex or other controller, you can control many drivers with 0-10v. That's what I do for my diy led strips.

led_ramp.png
 
Back
Top