Have ICH looky here!!!!!

Here is another article on Powder Browns and has pictures of the two species that are called that as a common name. Note: in that article it also talks about the color change that may be confused with ich spots. If the spots come and go they could be the "molting" effect mentioned in the article.
 
I have ick on my flame angle fish. I need medication for the whole tank. It 's a new tank I don 't worry about coral, Thanks all of you.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14977556#post14977556 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishwonder
I have ick on my flame angle fish. I need medication for the whole tank. It 's a new tank I don 't worry about coral, Thanks all of you.

if you use copper based medications in that tank then you will have to boil all the live rock, clean out the sand bed and also clean the tank down too.
if you hyposalinate then you loose any inverts that are in and on the live rock and inhabit the sand bed

you are still best to remove the infected fish---if it is the sole fish in there and qt it--treat it by hyposalination and after 4 weeks of treating and the tank being fishless you should be good to go

IMO alot esier then treating the tank
 
I QT the angel and put medication: formalin. Just 1 night and all white spots dissappeared. With the direction, I need 48 hours to with medication. And the main tank I put IRK ATTACK, it 's organic and can put in reef tank with LR. I checked the skimmer, it SKIMMED out the medicaiton. I have to unplug the skimmer and go without skimmer for 2 or 3 days. Everything 's under control now.
 
fishwonder, the spots will fall off the fish as a part of their journey through the system and will still be in the tank. As far as I can tell, everything is not OK just yet. You might need to wait a few more weeks (4-6). While there is a chance you could pull your fish from QT and it won't take the spots from the QT tank with it, what about the spots still in your display tank? They may not become vulnerable to meds for a few weeks yet (and longer if you keep your temps low). You would be best keeping the fish out of your display for the time being until those spots die. The fact that your fish cleared up in just a day says to me that it had probably been dropping spots for a while before you got it into QT.
 
I have set up a 10 gal QT. Moved all of my three fish there. 1 clown 2 yellow tangs. I want to do the copper treatment but i have already moved the fish there. What should I do? My LFS sold me some copper med that is made my seachem. I will post the details about it but will this work?
 
(to clarify that last question, I was referring to the cysts living on the substrate and rocks but not in the water)

Another question.....

My QT has become a mess and I transferred the fish to another tank with zero meds hoping to give them a break (ammonia, meds and something else going on in the old QT). What's the chance I transferred crypto to the new tank? The only way is if there were any that were encycted but not yet vulnerable, and either floating in the water (came on the net) or were living on the fish in some harmless way attached to them. These fish have been medicated now for 22 days at 28 (82.5) degrees, and no symptoms for that same amount of time. Could I just leave them in the new tank unmedicated for the remaining three weeks?
 
:lol: Joel,

It is easy to confuse the old WK but I think I see what you are asking. Yes, it is fine to use display tank water in a medicated QT tank as the medication will kill any free swimming, tomites, carried over to the QT. In a non-medicated tank there is a very slim chance that they could reinfect a fish but is very small. You would need to have them emerging from the cyst, trophont stage, at the time of the water's collection and they would then need to find the fish, which is not always that easy for the slow swimming tomite, to carry on the life cycle. In your case, after 22 days of medication I would be comfortable to leave them unmedicated for another two weeks and then returning them to the display.
 
Aha. If I had that post over I'd do it a little differently :lol:

That is good to know. I medicated the new QT just to cover that small chance that my display water had a free swimmer in it, but will remove the meds over the next couple of days.

I look forward to the days when all this carry on will only be as a precaution with newcomers. Phew.
 
Disease is the bane of numerous reefkeepers. Only adding a disease free fish to the display is the proven method to avoid it. Hopefully this will be your last challenge.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15045740#post15045740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H.Veras [/i]
hey i got my tank running for about two months already.. last weekend i bought two chromis and last night i saw that one of them got ich.... what should i do.. i do not have a QT tank, what should i do.. another question is my water contaminated already or not? [/QUOTE

yes your water has been contaminated--one of the reasons why some of us quarantine everything before adding it to the display tank.
The easist fix for you would be to qt those two chromies for 4 weeks and use the hyposalination treatment
Your display tank needs to remain fishless for 4 weeks which will be right about the time when you can place the chromies back into it.
 
I'm at a loss here and need some advice. I have had 2 fish in my QT, a clown and a yellow tang, for 5wks now. The yellow tang still has a 2 white spots on 1 fin. They've been there since the start but to be honest, I don't remember if they were there at the LFS -- I thought i did a thorough inspection but I discovered the spots w/in the first day for sure.

Anyway, I've treated with formalin for 14 days and copper at .3 for 14 days with a week in between. I've changed the water at least 6 or 7 times and it's been running at 1.020-1.022 for the last 3 weeks at least. Still, the spots persist. There are no other symptoms, no other spots, the clown is fine and while the tang is still a bit sketchy when i stare at him ;), he's fine.

What's left to do? Freshwater dip? Or is do I need to somehow rub the spots off? I have 2 pieces of PVC (including a valve) in the QT with nothing else, but he's never tried rubbing up against them so I'm very puzzled.

Any suggestions?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15046081#post15046081 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by norgemorir
I'm at a loss here and need some advice. I have had 2 fish in my QT, a clown and a yellow tang, for 5wks now. The yellow tang still has a 2 white spots on 1 fin. They've been there since the start but to be honest, I don't remember if they were there at the LFS -- I thought i did a thorough inspection but I discovered the spots w/in the first day for sure.

Anyway, I've treated with formalin for 14 days and copper at .3 for 14 days with a week in between. I've changed the water at least 6 or 7 times and it's been running at 1.020-1.022 for the last 3 weeks at least. Still, the spots persist. There are no other symptoms, no other spots, the clown is fine and while the tang is still a bit sketchy when i stare at him ;), he's fine.

What's left to do? Freshwater dip? Or is do I need to somehow rub the spots off? I have 2 pieces of PVC (including a valve) in the QT with nothing else, but he's never tried rubbing up against them so I'm very puzzled.

Any suggestions?

Formalin is not an effective way of treating for ich--so those 14 days don't count.
nor does running the water at 1.020=1.022.
alot of reefers combine copper treatments with hyposalinity---which is a 4 week treatment with the salinity at 1.009 exactly.
My suggestion would be to do the hyposalinity for the 4 weeks now disregarding the other time the fish has been in the qt
 
should i do my treatment in my DT since i only got two fish's in there... no carols yet... tank is running for two months only?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15046520#post15046520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H.Veras
should i do my treatment in my DT since i only got two fish's in there... no carols yet... tank is running for two months only?

You can't use copper in the display tank or all the inverts and bacteria in the sand bed and reef rock will be wiped out. You will have to take the tank down and acid wash it since copper can get in the silicon joins.

If you hyposalinate in the display tank the bacteria on the live rock and sand bed will take a hit---how much==who knows--but it will mean more cycling time again fishless.
Hyposalination will destroy all your clean up crew.

You still are better IMO setting up a small qt tank in a plastic tote with a piece of rock from the main tank, heater and small hob filter that you run three days on your display tank. You then fill the qt up with water from the display.
I would monitor the ammonia levels and be prepared to do a small water change if necessary.

All you have to do to the display tank is keep it fishless for 4 weeks which is alot less trouble and time then treating it.

As I posted before by the time you have treated the fish your tank will also be ready and ich free to accept them back;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15046081#post15046081 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by norgemorir
The yellow tang still has a 2 white spots on 1 fin. They've been there since the start

Photo....is it actually ich? Which fin are these two spots on?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15048004#post15048004 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JoelNB
Photo....is it actually ich? Which fin are these two spots on?

The right fin has the spots. I'll try to get a pic --previous attempts haven't been successful. What bothers me is the length of time, since I thought the Trophont stage only lasted 3-7 days --it's odd that the spot would always be in the same place for these 5 weeks now.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15046143#post15046143 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
Formalin is not an effective way of treating for ich--so those 14 days don't count.
nor does running the water at 1.020=1.022.
alot of reefers combine copper treatments with hyposalinity---which is a 4 week treatment with the salinity at 1.009 exactly.

This is what I was afraid of. Still, having run copper now for 2 weeks, as I understand it the theront stage is covered, I only need to worry about the trophont and tomont stages. So.. if the spots fall off or are not trophonts, then I was hoping I can remove the fish clean the QT and be good to go. This is assuming that the swimmers and fish attached stage parasites are dead and the cyst stage buggers are irrelevant and can be killed with a nice fresh water bath for a few days.
 
Hi Norge,

Yes, that does sound strange to me that the spots are only two and stationary after that amount of time. You are correct that ich spots come and go as the disease progresses. Lets see the the picture before going any further.
 
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