Alright Newbies, there are just so many times in a day I can cure a case of Ich or Velvet. So to save myself some serious carpal tunnel here is the lowdown.
Ich, Cryptocaryon irritans, and Velvet, Amyloodinium ocellatum, are two parasitic organisms, one a ciliated protozoa the other a dinoflagellate, that infect marine fish. Ich manifests itself in the tissue of fish and the infected fish becomes covered with white spot, about the size of the head of a pin or smaller. Velvet often remains unseen until the latter stages when a thin, white film, often called the "Vail of Death" forms over the fish's body. Infected fish dash around the tank, rubbing on the rockwork and, in latter stages, gulp air from the tank surface and refuse food. This behavior takes place as the fish's gills are attacked by the parasite and the fish is unable to breathe properly. It eventually leads to death if not treated in a timely manner.
Both have a staged life cycle that involves a cyst stage, a free swimming stage and a feeding stage where they attack the host fish. They are both obligate parasites and do not survive if a host fish is not present. Their life cycle is usually complete in a six week period with a tank temperature of 80°F. Lower temperatures prolong the life cycle while high temperatures shorten it. The main vector for introduction into a aquarist's tank is by adding an already infected fish.
Once identified it must be treated in a timely fashion as, once outward signs of the disease are noticed, the infection progresses rapidly. The fish should be isolated in a hospital tank. That is a bare tank with circulation provided by powerheads or hang on the tank filters. A heater should be used and set for 82°F, the slightly higher temperature speeding the life cycle. Do not go too high as breathing is difficult for a diseased fish and high temperature lowers dissolved oxygen. It is best to use water from the main tank. Water quality is maintained through the isolation period by fairly large daily water changes on the order of 20% each day. ALL exposed fish should be treated but invertebrates are not attacked by these parasites and may be left in the display.
There are three proven ways to treat the disease. Copper is a biocide to both and copper containing medications are readily available. Formalin, a dilute solution of formaldehyde, is used as a daily dip and again is available at most pet supply houses. Hyposalinity, relies on osmotic shock, the organism cannot maintain proper inner cell pressure when exposed to lower saline content. It requires no medication and only needs a supply of RO/DI water.
Here are the procedures-Do Not combine treatments. Use only one!
Copper
To use copper, get a copper ich medication and a copper test kit from the LFS. Fill the tank with water from the display and warm to 82°F. If using a HOB filter for circulation, run it without filter media as that can remove the copper. Add the proper amount of copper solution according to the package dosing direction. After it is mixed check the copper level; it should be between 0.2 and .25 ppm. If low, add more medication, if high, remove some water and replace with water from the display. Now add the infected fish.
Make up some saltwater mix and add the proper dose of copper using your test kit to insure accuracy. With this solution you will replace 20% of the hospital tank water each day. This keeps nitrogen levels under control during the treatment period. Every day check the copper level and adjust to the proper 0.2-0.25 range if needed. You do this for a full month then you can stop the copper additions. Observe the fish in the hospital tank for another two weeks to make sure they are parasite free and then return them to the display.
Formalin Dipâ€"taken form a thread recently posted by Urchinhead
Editors Note- The UV filter is needed in this method as it is a dip method and the hospital tank water is not medicated. If a UV is out of your budget then a canister filter with a 2 micron or less polishing filter will also serve to remove any pathogens in the water column.
Hyposalinity--used for Ich not Velvet
Caution-a refractometer or lab quality hydrometer must be used in this method!
In hyposalinity the normal salt content of the tank is reduced by over half, that is from normal 35 ppt to 16 ppt, which corresponds to a specific gravity of 1.009. The treatment is done in stages. On day one RO/DI is used to replace hospital tank water till specific gravity falls to 1.022, day two it is reduced to 1.018, day three 1.014, day four to 1.009. This last salinity is very important. If even .001 unit high the ich can survive and if too low the fish can be harmed. That is the reason a refractometer is used. Once the specific gravity is down it is wise to make a batch of saltwater up that has a salinity of 1.009. This is used for daily water changes to reduce the chance of ammonia or nitrate buildup during treatment. The low salinity is maintained for a month. The salinity is then increased, but even slower. Raise it 0.002 units each day until 1.026 is again reached. Once at normal salinity the fish may be returned to the display.
Those are the three proven methods.
There is a forth method that I'm told by experienced reefkeepers is also effective. I placed it in the experimental category as there are not enough reports to completely show that it consistently works. Submitted by MotherFish, here is that method-
Tank Transfer Method
This method is an all natural alternative to the use of chemical treatments or hyposalinity. The Tank Transfer Method breaks the parasite's life cycle at the stage when it has left the host fish, and encysted on the substrate to multiply. Preventing reinfection is accomplished by removing the fish to a second quarantine tank before the cysts can hatch.
The basic requirements are two tanks, two sets of PVC for hiding spots, an airpump, and two sets of tubing and airstones for aeration. Additional equipment may include a heater for cooler climates, and a tight fitting lid to prevent jumpers.
Important: Anything that has been used in one tank must be completely dried before being used in the other tank, including heaters and dip nets.
Begin by filling the first tank with water from the display, the airpump/airstone, and one set of PVC. Acclimate the fish to the tank. The fish should be kept in the first tank for 3 days. After 3 days setup the second tank with water from the display, the second set of PVC, and a fresh airstone and tubing. Transfer the fish from the first tank to the second tank. Empty the first tank and allow it, the PVC, and the airstone to dry for the next 3 days which will kill any encysted Ich. Repeat the procedure every 3 days for a total of 4 transfers. Since the parasite only attaches and feeds on the fish for three to seven days before dropping off, the fish should be completely free of cryptocaryon by the fourth transfer. So long as no other health issues are observed during quarantine, the fifth and final transfer is to the display.
Because biological filtration is not practical with this method, an ammonia detoxifier (AmQuel, Ammo-Lock, Amguard, etc.) and/or partial water changes should be used to combat build-up from feeding and waste. Additionally, since there are no chemical treatments that could be affected, disposable carbon filtration may also be used with the understanding that nothing must be used on both tanks that hasn't been completely dried first.
Tip: Before using a net to transfer the fish between tanks, dip the net in a solution of tankwater and StressCoat to coat the net, and help reduce the chance of abrasion.
There is a fifth proven method, not usually mentioned. Called the dieoff method all the fish in the tank are allowed to succume to ich or velvet leaving a barren tank that can't have fish in it for 6 weeks. It is a sad method but will happen if the treatment of sick fish is not started as soon as disease is noticed.
Here are some remedies more in these articles by Steve Pro
Ich Part 1
Ich Part 2
Velvet
But the best method is not to get it in the first place; you darn Newbie
Preventing Disease
Ich, Cryptocaryon irritans, and Velvet, Amyloodinium ocellatum, are two parasitic organisms, one a ciliated protozoa the other a dinoflagellate, that infect marine fish. Ich manifests itself in the tissue of fish and the infected fish becomes covered with white spot, about the size of the head of a pin or smaller. Velvet often remains unseen until the latter stages when a thin, white film, often called the "Vail of Death" forms over the fish's body. Infected fish dash around the tank, rubbing on the rockwork and, in latter stages, gulp air from the tank surface and refuse food. This behavior takes place as the fish's gills are attacked by the parasite and the fish is unable to breathe properly. It eventually leads to death if not treated in a timely manner.
Both have a staged life cycle that involves a cyst stage, a free swimming stage and a feeding stage where they attack the host fish. They are both obligate parasites and do not survive if a host fish is not present. Their life cycle is usually complete in a six week period with a tank temperature of 80°F. Lower temperatures prolong the life cycle while high temperatures shorten it. The main vector for introduction into a aquarist's tank is by adding an already infected fish.
Once identified it must be treated in a timely fashion as, once outward signs of the disease are noticed, the infection progresses rapidly. The fish should be isolated in a hospital tank. That is a bare tank with circulation provided by powerheads or hang on the tank filters. A heater should be used and set for 82°F, the slightly higher temperature speeding the life cycle. Do not go too high as breathing is difficult for a diseased fish and high temperature lowers dissolved oxygen. It is best to use water from the main tank. Water quality is maintained through the isolation period by fairly large daily water changes on the order of 20% each day. ALL exposed fish should be treated but invertebrates are not attacked by these parasites and may be left in the display.
There are three proven ways to treat the disease. Copper is a biocide to both and copper containing medications are readily available. Formalin, a dilute solution of formaldehyde, is used as a daily dip and again is available at most pet supply houses. Hyposalinity, relies on osmotic shock, the organism cannot maintain proper inner cell pressure when exposed to lower saline content. It requires no medication and only needs a supply of RO/DI water.
Here are the procedures-Do Not combine treatments. Use only one!
Copper
To use copper, get a copper ich medication and a copper test kit from the LFS. Fill the tank with water from the display and warm to 82°F. If using a HOB filter for circulation, run it without filter media as that can remove the copper. Add the proper amount of copper solution according to the package dosing direction. After it is mixed check the copper level; it should be between 0.2 and .25 ppm. If low, add more medication, if high, remove some water and replace with water from the display. Now add the infected fish.
Make up some saltwater mix and add the proper dose of copper using your test kit to insure accuracy. With this solution you will replace 20% of the hospital tank water each day. This keeps nitrogen levels under control during the treatment period. Every day check the copper level and adjust to the proper 0.2-0.25 range if needed. You do this for a full month then you can stop the copper additions. Observe the fish in the hospital tank for another two weeks to make sure they are parasite free and then return them to the display.
Formalin Dipâ€"taken form a thread recently posted by Urchinhead
Editors Note- The UV filter is needed in this method as it is a dip method and the hospital tank water is not medicated. If a UV is out of your budget then a canister filter with a 2 micron or less polishing filter will also serve to remove any pathogens in the water column.
Hyposalinity--used for Ich not Velvet
Caution-a refractometer or lab quality hydrometer must be used in this method!
In hyposalinity the normal salt content of the tank is reduced by over half, that is from normal 35 ppt to 16 ppt, which corresponds to a specific gravity of 1.009. The treatment is done in stages. On day one RO/DI is used to replace hospital tank water till specific gravity falls to 1.022, day two it is reduced to 1.018, day three 1.014, day four to 1.009. This last salinity is very important. If even .001 unit high the ich can survive and if too low the fish can be harmed. That is the reason a refractometer is used. Once the specific gravity is down it is wise to make a batch of saltwater up that has a salinity of 1.009. This is used for daily water changes to reduce the chance of ammonia or nitrate buildup during treatment. The low salinity is maintained for a month. The salinity is then increased, but even slower. Raise it 0.002 units each day until 1.026 is again reached. Once at normal salinity the fish may be returned to the display.
Those are the three proven methods.
There is a forth method that I'm told by experienced reefkeepers is also effective. I placed it in the experimental category as there are not enough reports to completely show that it consistently works. Submitted by MotherFish, here is that method-
Tank Transfer Method
This method is an all natural alternative to the use of chemical treatments or hyposalinity. The Tank Transfer Method breaks the parasite's life cycle at the stage when it has left the host fish, and encysted on the substrate to multiply. Preventing reinfection is accomplished by removing the fish to a second quarantine tank before the cysts can hatch.
The basic requirements are two tanks, two sets of PVC for hiding spots, an airpump, and two sets of tubing and airstones for aeration. Additional equipment may include a heater for cooler climates, and a tight fitting lid to prevent jumpers.
Important: Anything that has been used in one tank must be completely dried before being used in the other tank, including heaters and dip nets.
Begin by filling the first tank with water from the display, the airpump/airstone, and one set of PVC. Acclimate the fish to the tank. The fish should be kept in the first tank for 3 days. After 3 days setup the second tank with water from the display, the second set of PVC, and a fresh airstone and tubing. Transfer the fish from the first tank to the second tank. Empty the first tank and allow it, the PVC, and the airstone to dry for the next 3 days which will kill any encysted Ich. Repeat the procedure every 3 days for a total of 4 transfers. Since the parasite only attaches and feeds on the fish for three to seven days before dropping off, the fish should be completely free of cryptocaryon by the fourth transfer. So long as no other health issues are observed during quarantine, the fifth and final transfer is to the display.
Because biological filtration is not practical with this method, an ammonia detoxifier (AmQuel, Ammo-Lock, Amguard, etc.) and/or partial water changes should be used to combat build-up from feeding and waste. Additionally, since there are no chemical treatments that could be affected, disposable carbon filtration may also be used with the understanding that nothing must be used on both tanks that hasn't been completely dried first.
Tip: Before using a net to transfer the fish between tanks, dip the net in a solution of tankwater and StressCoat to coat the net, and help reduce the chance of abrasion.
There is a fifth proven method, not usually mentioned. Called the dieoff method all the fish in the tank are allowed to succume to ich or velvet leaving a barren tank that can't have fish in it for 6 weeks. It is a sad method but will happen if the treatment of sick fish is not started as soon as disease is noticed.
Here are some remedies more in these articles by Steve Pro
Ich Part 1
Ich Part 2
Velvet
But the best method is not to get it in the first place; you darn Newbie
Preventing Disease
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