Having trouble with SPS coloration

[G4546]

Remember, you said this.

We really need pic's of these corals that won't color up. Please

The first thing I'd do is ditch the algae scrubber. It is physically impossible to grow algae on a screen if the water is void of nitrogen and phosphate. It really doesn't matter what the tests are telling you. If you're growing algae, you have nitrogen and phosphate. Your corals are exposed to the same nutrients that are causing all the algae growth on your scrubber. These devices simply serve as a means of trapping nutrients within the system, causing problems, like poor coloration, in corals.

+1 x 100

Ditch the scrubber. :thumbsup:

 

[Bugger]

Im with the light issue aswell

 

[scolley]

first thing I'd do is ditch the algae scrubber.

You dont have to ditch it. If the fear is that you are stripping your water column on nitrates and phosphates, then just dramatically reduce the photoperiod of the scrubber. If you only light your ATS 1 hour a day it is extremely unlikely that you can strip your water of nutrients. And if, in the future, you need a nutrient reduction, the option remains open to you.

FWIW - I manage my own phosphate level by managing my ATS photoperiod. And Ive got good SPS coloration.

 

[miguelp19]

here are some pics of some of the corals

 

[miguelp19]

ok, so i guess the first step in deciding what to do is to get an accurate reading of my phosphate. Ill check with my lfs and see if they check via hanna checker. Im going to reduce the photoperiod on my scrubber as i dont want to rule it out just yet, it really does get a nice amount of algae out every week, nothing crazy but i do have a bit to harvest.

second, if my phosphate is as high as some of us think, how is it getting that high? i really dont feed much and i dont have that much rock either and the rock that i do have was previously cooked in bleach and acid. and how do i reduce it? I really dont want to go with GFO pretty much because of the cost, so what other method is used? Just do water changes more often?

Thanks for all of the input, its greatly appreciated!

 

[brad65ford]

I don't think your tank is too clean. In fact, I'm inclined to believe the opposite.

Brown corals indicate excessive zooxanthellae. Excessive zooxanthellae comes from an excess of nutrients, not an absence. Corals in ultra low nutrient tanks often take on a pastel appearance. Not brown.

Purchase quality test kits, retest, then post the results. API kits don't have the resolution required for NO3 or PO4, meaning, they'll give you a false negative.

Getting good color is a balancing act. You need to limit zooxanthellae numbers to prevent brown coral. However, the coral needs zooxanthellae to survive. Even if you have higher than desirable nutrients, this can be overcome with more light. The inverse is also true. Ultra low nutrients can work with lower light levels, but since you already have lower light levels, this is another reason why I suspect false test data.

Coolest post information I've read in a while ty for posting this.

 

[xenon]

I am going to venture to say lack of light from the pics above. Corals bleach quickly with too much light and with not enough light they bleach slowly.

It is also possible that you are starving them. Two clown fish in a 60g tank is ridiculous. Get more fish, feed more, export those excess nutrients and your corals will color up.

 

[brad65ford]

Got a good suggestion for knowing if you have to much or not enough nutrients in your tank.

Get some Cheato's and see if they thrive or die, seems to work for me as a real life test for nutrients. When mine are dieing and withering away I know I need to feed the tank more.

 

[deepseadan]

I think your problem is with phosphates, and your API test isn't accurate. Just the other day I tested my brothers tank who has an issue with algae. We did a salifert phosphate test and it came out at 0. Then we did a red sea pro phosphate test and the same water tested out at .08. That's a huge discrepancy between the two, especially when it comes to SPS. Also years ago I remember using the API po4 test and to be honest, I couldn't even decipher the result colors. Po4 was the cause of my color issues years ago. My SPS looked like yours and I had metal halide lighting. When I got my po4 in check with gfo, everything colored up great. Just feed high quality flakes daily, and run gfo continually.

 

[maysorum]

Your phosphates might be coming from the egg crate you are using. Search reefcentral, there were quite a few threads about phosphates and egg crate a while ago.

Also, if your scrubber is still growing algae, I wouldn't reduce the light period. If you reduce your scrubber's effectiveness you'll start to see algae growth in less desirable locations, like your display.

 

[maysorum]

Your phosphates might be coming from the egg crate you are using. Search reefcentral, there were quite a few threads about phosphates and egg crate a while ago.

Also, if your scrubber is still growing algae, I wouldn't reduce the light period. If you reduce your scrubber's effectiveness you'll start to see algae growth in less desirable locations, like your display.

 

[miguelp19]

sooo now im running out of options. I took advantage of the BRS specials and bought a Hanna Phosphate Checker and the results are 0.00. I dont know if these tests are valid as i do have algae in the tank.

I am gonna research the phosphates coming from the eggrate possibility but even then.. why would the tests read 0???

 

[trueblackpercula]

I have a question how long has the tank been up and running?

 

[deepseadan]

sooo now im running out of options. I took advantage of the BRS specials and bought a Hanna Phosphate Checker and the results are 0.00. I dont know if these tests are valid as i do have algae in the tank.

I am gonna research the phosphates coming from the eggrate possibility but even then.. why would the tests read 0???

I would double check and do another phosphate test with the Hanna. I have yet to ever have a tank with 0 po4. Just as an example, my current tank has a total volume of 160 gallons and I have 4 small pajama cardinals and a diamond goby. I feed once every other day just a tiny bit of flakes and brine shrimp and once a week phyto, oyster feasts. I have two reactors, a brs deluxe and a phosban 550 with gfo in each, and I still struggle to stay under .01 (on the Hanna po4 checker). I also have a fuge with chaeto and two skimmers, both asm g1x and g2 going all the time. But my tank is still somewhat young at 6 months. Also if you have algae, chances are good you have phosphate. If you test again and you're sure you're doing it right, and it's still zero, you must have to clean of a system. I don't know what else it could be.

 

[Acronic]

It could be both... The tank is dirty enough to fuel algae. The algae absorb the nutrients and starve the corals.

 

[pwoller]

Those corals look pail to me. Feed more I had the same issue when I went from MH to t5's and cut back my bioload at the same time.