Help me with this one.

[reefgeek84]

I am going to be setting up a 55gal corner tank that is 24" tall.

I was thinking about using the Odyssea metal halide system with the 175w halide and the 50w of PC and Moon light LED( i know that does not matter, but I am unsure of the wattage of the LED) and a 135w PC system.

But was thinking maybe I should not go with the 135w PC and go with another Odyssea metal halide system? Would it be worth it? Or should I just stick with the PC and the Metal halide, since I already have to PC?

I want to keep SPS and LPS corals.

I do not want to have to much light over the tank, with the halides alone would be 350W plus the PC's of 50W, 450Ws total.

let me know guys.

 

[artful-dodger]

Realistically you can't have too much light...no matter how much you put over the tank it will be less than the normal sunlight levels except for very deep water species. It may be too much space (corner tanks with a curved front are notoriously difficult to light) or too much heat or too much electricity, but it won't be too much light.

Having at least some VHO, PC or T5 lighting is probably wise. That will let you add some actinic while keeping a whiter MH primary. It will also allow you to stagger the start/end times to avoid the flashbulb effect of going from complete darkness to noontime brightness when the MHs kick on.

 

[reefgeek84]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6802970#post6802970 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by artful-dodger
Realistically you can't have too much light...no matter how much you put over the tank it will be less than the normal sunlight levels except for very deep water species. It may be too much space (corner tanks with a curved front are notoriously difficult to light) or too much heat or too much electricity, but it won't be too much light.

Having at least some VHO, PC or T5 lighting is probably wise. That will let you add some actinic while keeping a whiter MH primary. It will also allow you to stagger the start/end times to avoid the flashbulb effect of going from complete darkness to noontime brightness when the MHs kick on.

You can burn LPS coral with to much light, I have seen some people do it. I am not worried about heat, that I will get taken care of.

The system I am talking about has PC's and moon lights with 3 different cords so I could stager when they came on and shut off. With the two halide systems there would be about 100w of PC that would come on first and then 350w of halide that would come on.

 

[mr pink floyd]

thats alot of light

 

[reefgeek84]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6803306#post6803306 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr pink floyd
thats alot of light

Which set up are you talking about?

 

[reefgeek84]

TTT

 

[jimbo045]

If you are running 2 of the 175s, that should be enough.

 

[reefgeek84]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6816264#post6816264 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimbo045
If you are running 2 of the 175s, that should be enough.

Should be enough, I think that would be alot!!! That would be 450 watts 350 watts of that halide... That seems like alot... Some one else have any thoughts?
With the two halide kits that is 8.18 watts a gal
With the one halide and the pc that is 6.54
Now I think the 350watts of halide over a 24" tank that is only 55gal would be to muxch.

Am I that wrong?

 

[reefgeek84]

So I was thinking if I went with the two halide systems, I would use a 10k bulb (175w), 20k bulb(175w), and the rest of the pc's would be actinic that equal 96watts.. How would that look? also would it be ok if I had the pc's come on first then the 20k and then the 10k? or would the 96 watts of actinic to the 20k be to much of a shock? Please let me know.

 

[reefgeek84]

TTT