High Nitrates!!!

FOOOOOOD!!!!!

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I am going to preform my second 50% water change tonight. I will post the Nitrate level afterwards. Some of my corals are opening up a tiny but though. That is encouraging!!!
 
I did a 90% water change on my on my 65 gallon tank just a few weeks ago and all of my corals looked great about an hour afterwards and have looked great ever since. If done carefully and quickly there is no risk in doing a large water change like that IMO. Many people won’t tell you to do it because they have never tried it and are rightfully wary of recommending something risky they haven’t tried. However I have done it a few times before so I know it is safe. If you want to get rid of nitrates and phosphates fast do a BIG water change IMO. You could even do a 100% water change but I don’t usually remove the fish so I like to leave a little water at the bottom for them that is why I say 90% or 95%. Your live rock has all of the nitrifying bacteria your tank should need so as long as the new water is the same or close to the same temperature as the old water you will be fine. Good luck!

PS Do at your own risk, I don’t personally feel there is any risk but just incase don’t blame me :)
 
Thanks Nate! Considdering I just did a 50% water change two days ago. I have water mixing right now to do another 50% water change tonight. I was going to do it last night but I got into reading this article about Nitrates. If I had more buckets, I would do a larger WC, so I will stick to the 50%.

I will post my results.
 
I am getting ready to do the WC, but my PH levels are off!! My tank PH is at 7.8 (7th hour of 8 hours with MH) which is unusual. It's usually a solid 8.3 with lights on. My mixed water is at 8.2-3 right now. My alk is a 4dkh and my Ca is at 400. Any idea of how to lower the ph in the buckets?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11139852#post11139852 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SVXH6
i would be more worried about the ph of the tank being 7.8..
:confused:I would be concerned about that as well. I hope you meant your alk was at 4 meq/l not 4dkh. If it is 4dkh you need buffer. Are your nitrates still high? They must be coming from somewhere. Do you have cynobacteria? I would use the water you have mixed without lowering the ph but I would use it 1/3 or 1/4 per day to allow it to adjust your ph upwards. If you lower the ph in the new water with either seltzer or vinegar you will just be adding CO2. A little limewater in your tank might help. Is it possible that you have high CO2 ?
 
It is very possible that I have high co2. The house has been closed up since Sunday. Also, I did mean that my alk was at 4ppm...not dkh. I didn't end up adding anything to the tank or to the buckets of water. After posting this, I retested the ph of the tank and it was at 8.2. I think I missed a drop while doing the test or something. The change is done and I am about to do another PH test and a nitrate test. Stand by......................

..............Well, the tests are done and this is what I came up with. Ph is at 8.1 and the Nitrates appear to be between 20ppm and 50. At least it is night fire engine red anymore.

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thrird water change

thrird water change

Well, I have done another water change. This time I did 75%. I just did the nitrate test and I am waiting for the results. Many of my corals are coming out again too. My Green Nepthia's polyps are coming out, many of my zoos are opening up again and my bubble coral is almost back to normal. Before I knew that my Nitrates were so high, I introduced a red brain to the tank. I was upset that it never opened. NOW... it's tentacles come out and he gets nice and fluffy, kind of like me after a dozen chicken wings. Here are the results.....................................................

No3 apperars to be between 10 and 20 ppm on the low range. Much better than 250!!!! I am going to try the test using the high range now....... well, looks like it is at 25ppm. still better that 250.

What sort of caulerpa is safe to stick in my tank behind the reef? I just don't want any growing ON my reef!! Also, how much would be effective for my 30g tank?
 
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If you want grape caulpera, I've got plenty. I've got a weekend project planned to rework my refugium, and I plan to get rid of all of it.

If you have a tang, this type of caulpera may have a hard time taking over. The prunings that I feed to my tang are enough to keep it from over growing. However, it did manage to out-compete the chaeto that I had in the fuge.
 
Glad to hear things are going well. When caulerpa dumps(sporalates) it can really ruin a tank. If you are going to keep it be sure to export it regularly.
 
Comsiddering that I will be adding it dirrectly to my display tank, I don't want to chance it taking hold of my rock. What is the difference between chaeto and caulerpa?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11167254#post11167254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by magdelan
Comsiddering that I will be adding it dirrectly to my display tank, I don't want to chance it taking hold of my rock. What is the difference between chaeto and caulerpa?

I've read that chaeto is sometimes referred to as spaghetti weed (though I never personally hear it referred to as such). It forms kind of a tumbleweed, and doesn't anchor to anything. Caulerpa latches onto what ever it can, and grows pretty quickly. If it isn't kept in check it can grow out of control. Also, as mentioned, if it isn't pruned it tries to spawn, usually releasing a lot of nitrates.

Personally, I don't think either would look good in a display.
 
Chaetomorpha is a multi celled macroalgae. It does not attach and looks like green brillo pad. It also doesn't sporulate like caulerpa.Chaetomorpha can also trap detrius like a filter pad. While it makes a good habitat for pods,it needs to be shaken once in awhile to get some of the dirt out.
Caulerpa is more attractive to some.
it is more invasive and will grow all over your tank and rock if not kept in check. It is, even though it doesn't appear so, a single cell. When it sporulates it all goes. It dumps everything it has absorbed back into the water at one time,usually at night.leaving a milky white tank loaded with nutrients.Fish such as Tangs are more likely to eat caulerpa.
Both are photosynthetic and both absorb nutrients and CO2 from the water and produce oxygen when the lights are on and both "exhale CO2 when the lights are off.
 
It sounds like Chaeto is the way to go. I can easily shove some behind my Reef without it being noticable.

Both are photosynthetic and both absorb nutrients and CO2 from the water and produce oxygen when the lights are on and both "exhale CO2 when the lights are off.

This will lower my Ph at night more than already happens? Is this healthy for the tank for the PH to drop so low?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11172185#post11172185 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by magdelan
It sounds like Chaeto is the way to go. I can easily shove some behind my Reef without it being noticable.

Both are photosynthetic and both absorb nutrients and CO2 from the water and produce oxygen when the lights are on and both "exhale CO2 when the lights are off.

This will lower my Ph at night more than already happens? Is this healthy for the tank for the PH to drop so low?

Probably no more so than adding a large coral or two but yes it will have that effect. This is why people sometimes keep large quantiities of macroalgae in opposite photo period refugiums.
 
Re: thrird water change

Re: thrird water change

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11164846#post11164846 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by magdelan
Well, I have done another water change. This time I did 75%. I just did the nitrate test and I am waiting for the results. Many of my corals are coming out again too. My Green Nepthia's polyps are coming out, many of my zoos are opening up again and my bubble coral is almost back to normal. Before I knew that my Nitrates were so high, I introduced a red brain to the tank. I was upset that it never opened. NOW... it's tentacles come out and he gets nice and fluffy, kind of like me after a dozen chicken wings. Here are the results.....................................................

No3 apperars to be between 10 and 20 ppm on the low range. Much better than 250!!!! I am going to try the test using the high range now....... well, looks like it is at 25ppm. still better that 250.

What sort of caulerpa is safe to stick in my tank behind the reef? I just don't want any growing ON my reef!! Also, how much would be effective for my 30g tank?

:dance: I knew your tank would like the big water change! I know it’s not a very popular method but when you’re in a pinch it will get you on the right track fast. Glad to hear things went well and good luck!
 
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