Higher Calcium Level for SPS Growth? (vs Health)

[Wally.B]

I like your plan.
2x 250w plus t5 is a lot of light on your tank.. More than you need, right now.. Imo..
I don't know- can you run your 250w bulbs on the 175w setting, or do you have 175w bulbs?
you might beat the cyano with the new lighting but if you use a cyano 'cleaner' watch the skimmer, my experience has always been days of crazy skimming.. I'm sure it is tank dependent, though.

I may try the ChemiClean, since I have the setup to do it (skimmer drain). But first will watch the lighting change improvement.

As far as running 250W bulb at lower power settings (ie 150W, 175W), I contacted Bulb manufacturer a while ago, and they gave me ok (in writing).

Here is the thread 250W MH bulbs on a 3ft 65Gal Tank? Can I run them at 150W setting?

That's the nice thing about my switchable ballast with current connectors,wiring and 250W bulb. (I can now pick and choose with a dial).

There is no such thing as a 175W bulb (common mainstream). But I can run my 250W bulb at 175W (temporarily), since 2x 150W might be too low for SPS.

My original lighting fixture was a 150W, but I modified (8 months ago) the connectors to handle 250W bulbs (thinking I needed them for SPS and Acros).

If 175W works for corals, I may keep it, since as you say with 2x T5 (ho) is plenty. Maybe even go back to 150W since that worked when I started this tank.

Here is proof that Lighting is driving the Cyano (even though no extra nutrients added- Coral Feeding, Additatives)

Two Photo's taken same day - TODAY (with new lower lighting setup).

First Photo is Morning after a night of darkness (Almost no Cyano)

Second Photo is Evening after Main Lighting cycle (Cyano coming back)

Cyano Cycle was worse before when I had higher lighting schedule. (Today is just first day with lower settings)

I plan on getting the PAR unit from Neptune systems. It's already out and I'm on waiting list with my supplier. To finally solve my lighting challenges. Not just of this tank, but my other Tank.

I believe I may be close to solving the Final Mystery with my tank. LIGHTING. (Bulb setting, fixture height, and schedule).

I looked at my skimmer today, and it's a couple of feet away from my SPS tank lights (getting way less light).
Loaded with Coraline. SO PERHAPS my lighting is too much and burning off my potential coralline and feeding my Cyano. (I hardly have coralline growing on glass or rocks, when chemistry is perfect).

 

[Wally.B]

Just to add to my post above (Summary of this whole thread journey):

(1) This WHOLE THREAD got started by me when I was struggling with Coral Growth. (At the time I was playing with more lighting (Increased 150W-to-250w and was burning my corals)
------ I thought at the time it was Calcium levels hindering growth.
(2) Folks identified that my corals looked starved, and lacked color.
(3) My problem was lack of nutrients, so I increased nutrients (with Fish and Coral Feeding with Additives)
(4) Then I got the nutrients right and corals started coloring up, looked healthier, and started grownig.
(5) I started increasing photo Period & lowering light (while still at higher 250W lighting)
(6) I had a unstable skimmer issue so nutrient export and stability was off (but it was corrected recently)
(7) I played with removing GFO.
(8) Then I entered into the Algae/Cyano problems (Correct Nutrients, but too much Lighting)
(9) First correction was improvement on Clean Up Crew which I addressed quickly.
(10) I increased circulation x2
(11) I cut off Coral Feeding and Additives.
(12) Green/Hair Algae is under control, but Cyano is taking too long to tinker out. (Plus I'm not getting good coralline growth as I should be.)

- I believe I NEED TO GET LIGHTING RIGHT (the final adjustment), since everything else is 90% Good for a Healthy SPS tank.

Sure I need to work on N & P levels, but it's not that far off (no longer 0.00) , and too Low N & P wouldn't be giving me Cyano & Algae (the opposite should be happening).

We'll see over next few weeks what new LOWER lighting does. (I'm not increasing Lighting Drastically, I'm Genlty decreasing by distribution).

Stay tuned...

 

[Wally.B]

Cleaning Algae in a Larger Tank (Photo from Vacation in Bahamas)

You've heard me wine and complain about my Algae/Cyano problems in my 65 gallon tank.

Here is a photo my son got of me during our Family Vacation at Atalantis Paradise Island in Bahamas last week.

Wife and kids really couldn't understand my interest & enthusiasm with a guy cleaning algae with a siphon hose.

I felt a bit better about my tank after seeing this guy scrubbing the 2.7 Million Gallon Display tank called the "Ruins Lagoon" (20,000 Inhabitants).

Bit more work!!

Lot's of Algae. But NO CYANO!! Must use lots of ChemiClean

 

[Wally.B]

Main Tank Lights OFF!! ( House Central Air Failure )

So my Central AC has failed a couple of days ago, during a mini heat wave.

Tanks were getting hot, so was whole house (humidity too!!).

Managed to get a small air conditioner to survive in the kitchen, but I've shut off both tanks main lighting. Running LED's only
Hoping weather get's cooler since it will take time to get new AC unit.

Shouldn't hurt the tanks to run on bare minimal lighting to keep temp minimal (peaking @ 82.5 with no MH lights). Light's off will help Cyano/Algae problem.

I assume SPS can handle this for a week or so (without damage)?

 

[swk]

Keep an eye on dosing. Alk demand may drop during this time.

 

[GroktheCube]

While I was tearing things down for the move and setting up my new tank, I had some SPS unlit in a couple rubbermaid bins for close to three weeks without much damage. A little base recession on a stylo, but I honestly think that was more due to poor flow than lack of light. Ambient lighting should be more than enough to keep them alive, but I'd expect colors to fade a bit and growth to halt.

 

[Wally.B]

AC fixed ($30). Watching tank with minimal lighting after a few days.

Thanks to an honest HVAC repair guy, who gave me some self repair advice.
I checked the AC Condenser Fan capacitor, and it was blown. Replacement part $30 and AC running again. (It's going to take a day for house to get back to normal wrt. Humidity and heat).

So WITHOUT MH lights, the Cyano took a BIG hit.
Algae is crumbing all over the place.
Even Algae on glass is peeling away.
See the Coraline again without the Cyano covered rocks.
Corals look great!! (without Cyano wrapped around their bases)

Going to turn on light soon (quick controlled ramp up), which will probably just Bounce back the Cyano.

So plan is to NOT do the ChemiClean, since my tank is loaded with live CopePods (like tiggers), Live PytoPlanton for my Mandarin.
I have read that ChemiClean could kill them ( plus also introducing large amount of waste with their death).

So instead I've ordered CyanoClean which is more natural way. Adding bacterial to out compete the Cyano.
Will be using with Coral Snow.

I did use (ZeoBak with Coral snow, Plus 2 month lights off) to successfully rid my other tank of Cyano.
My other tank is nothing but pure SOLID Multicolored Coralline Covered rocks.
So I trust this will be better.

Yes, finding an eliminating root cause would be better, but I think that would just take MUCH longer than I want to wait.

 

[Wally.B]

BirdNest Bleaching from Middle???

Not sure if this is related to temp spike that happened?

Lights off for 3 days (doubt it)?

Why is my Birds Nest (confirmed not a Red Dragon), BLEACHING FROM THE MIDDLE.

I noticed a white spot a few days ago, and it has rapidly spread.

Bottom and top is fine. Braches and tips are polyping.

NO OTHER CORALS showing Stress.

I am about to (dip it) then (frag it), to save what is good.

I would wait to see what happens now that lights go on today. But lighting shock would have affected top or bottom, not middle

 

[markalot]

That's a Red Dragon, birdsnests have polyps on the branches, that's an acro.

 

[Wally.B]

That's a Red Dragon, birdsnests have polyps on the branches, that's an acro.

Ok Mark it's a red dragon. I just described the coral to the original store I bought it from. They never actually looked at it.

So should I frag it?

 

[Myka]

My guess is the lights or maybe the temp dropped a bit without having the lights. How often do you test alkalinity? What's the results over the last week?

 

[Wally.B]

Water Parameters are good. Tiny dip in Alk (8.5 to 8.0).

Temp did go TOO high and then dropped back to normal during AC failure and fix.
Temp never went too low since heaters are programmed to turn on.

I took it out for inspection, and was going to frag it. (no parasites, or anything suspicious on base)

But from top side it looks good.

So I double dipped it with (Revive) and (MelaFix). Put it back for one last observation (with lights on) and (Temp back to normal).

It will either continue getting worse, or might recover.

Giving it a chance (since it was my 3rd best grower recently.)

 

[Wally.B]

Actually, now that I think back in time.

On Aug 26th I did a larger water change. This Red Dragon is highest in my tank.

When I drained the tank, I DID NOT NOTICE RIGHT AWAY that it was out of water (just the top tips). No Main lights were on.

When I noticed it, I quickly filled the tank up to cover it.

Perhaps this caused a shock to it. Still I would have expected the damage to be a tips and not the middle, or bottom.

Just thought I'd mention this. (I also reviewed Tank photo's, and bleaching started roughly a week after that water change, where I also brought up the Tank salinity from 1.023 to 1.025).
I added the higher salinity water to the sump, so expected it to be mixed up before going into tank.

Also looking closely. One other coral has a bleached tip. It was also slightly out of water.


BTW. Lights came on today, and in just 2 hours, I see Early spots of Cyano coming back.

 

[GroktheCube]

How hot did the tank get, and for how long?

I don't think the air exposure did it, especially given the tissue recession is in the wrong place, but you never know. It could just be stress from a variety of changes all at once (temp swing, salinity swing, lights off), but I'm not sure about that either.

 

[Wally.B]

How hot did the tank get, and for how long?

I don't think the air exposure did it, especially given the tissue recession is in the wrong place, but you never know. It could just be stress from a variety of changes all at once (temp swing, salinity swing, lights off), but I'm not sure about that either.

Tank hit 82.5 degrees for about two days, then dropped to 81-82 for couple days. Back now to running at Normal at 78.

Most important is all other corals fine.

 

[Myka]

Water Parameters are good. Tiny dip in Alk (8.5 to 8.0).

Temp did go TOO high and then dropped back to normal during AC failure and fix.
Temp never went too low since heaters are programmed to turn on.

Tank hit 82.5 degrees for about two days, then dropped to 81-82 for couple days. Back now to running at Normal at 78.

Most important is all other corals fine.

Oh right, I was thinking you had no power. It was lack of AC. It doesn't sound like your tank went anywhere near high enough to cause the problem, but it's possible that the swing did bother it. I don't think it being out of water for such a short period would have been the issue either.

 

[Wally.B]

TIME to restart my Frag Tank (for a proper clean up)

So kids are back to school in 1 day and I'm free from being their boredom solution!!!

Plan to rebuild my old 55 GAL Frag Tank, which has been sitting idle for many months, after using it to rebuild my other tank.

(This was my sump before I converted to Rubbermaid and got rid of the humming)

All ready for SPS Frag/holding tank (custom rebuild). Even have some Nice new black egg crate for shelving.

-> Old MH light fixture from LED upgraded tank with OLD 150W bulb will be a match for current SPS tank running at 175W. Some fixture height adjustment with lower tank height for Intensity MATCH.

-> Have a Lux meter to match light intensity. (not a PAR meter, but good enough).

-> Crappy hang of skimmer does the job for a Frag Tank (no fish). Circulation and Aeration.

Plan is to slowly take out some corals, systematically, so that I can clean rocks properly from algae.

Then I'll treat tank for Cyano with Cyano Clean.

Fish stay in tank as I cycle the rocks for proper cleaning.

This will be a lot easier than waiting forever for SPS tank rocks to clean themselves up.

Here is how I had it setup during my other Tank rebuild (when I re did tank lighting & testing for the Kessil/T5 conversion from MH)

I'll be careful to minimize the shock between the two tanks (by matching chemistry, temp and lighting very closely). Circulation will be close but not perfect.

Will do things slowly (piece by piece). Since this is way more sensitive SPS vs LPS/Soft corals.

Water changes from Display Tank will be put into Frag tank (with new water too), to keep bacteria levels. (Both will be treated for Cyano).


BAD idea? Good idea? Any advice?

 

[Wally.B]

SHARE YOUR FRAG TANKS setups/Ideas

So I'm doing research and I have TWO OPTIONS for a Frag Tank.

1) Separate/Isolated Frag Tank

- Works for short term to clean up rocks
- Quick and easy to setup
- Would be a low Nutrient Tank since no fish, or proper skimmer.

2) Joined Frag Tank with Display Tank.

Option two is much better:

- Would double my Total Water Volume
- Would have matched chemistry with Display tank
- Needs only one skimmer,
- Super Easy Water Changes (all done in Frag tank. Not Display)
- I could stock Frag tank with fish for extra natural nutrients
- etc

ASSUMPTION: I re-use what equipment I have $$ (Old 55 Gal Sump, Old MH Lighting fixture, Salt Mixing Powerheads & Heaters, etc)

Option 2 is a lot of work since I'd have to re-arrange my whole sump room, and complex plumbing. (but would be worth it). Leaning this way.

 

[GroktheCube]

Tank hit 82.5 degrees for about two days, then dropped to 81-82 for couple days. Back now to running at Normal at 78.

Most important is all other corals fine.

I was thinking you'd say upper 80s. 82.5 shouldn't be hot enough to cause problems, plenty of folks run their tanks that hot 24/7.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG Tank is going to take a while (Going to observe New Lighting Schedule for a while...First).

I'm going to start a separate thread to gather input about my future Frag tank (even if it's something I'll even do).

What I will be doing over next month or so, is running the system with the New lighting scheduled that I post a few posts earlier. The 175W MH East to West configuration.

New Lighting setup does appear promising:

- Cyano is pretty minimal, even after full day of lighting
- Algae is breaking apart and clearing up on rocks
- Corals are reacting in a positive way (Polyping).

I'd be further along if it were not the AC failure and lights out.

I'll be watching and taking Regular Photo's to see corals health and growth.

Stay tuned....

HERE IS CYANO coverage (After Full day of MH Lights comparison). ((NO CyanoClean treatment yet. NO rock scrubbing))

BEFORE (Sept 1st):

NOW (Sept 7th) (Also after Lights [EXTENDED 6hr PhotoPeriod] ) :

Yes, "LIGHTS OUT" period did help a lot. So a bit early on overall lighting adjustment obeservations.

Just for reference. Here was tank a while ago..