Higher Calcium Level for SPS Growth? (vs Health)

Algae Scrubber (Prototype Build) Phase 3 (Lighting)

- Lighting Portal In Place

2016-04-22_ATS-Phase3_zpslkdqmden.jpg~original



- Next is LED Panel and DesignWater Flow thru ATS (Diverter, Concentrator, Air Bubbler, etc)
 
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In-Sump (Algae Scrubber) LED PANEL

- The Prototype Panel is as below.

Till now I've been running the (Testing pair) of LED's at 200ma, and they are pretty bright.

However 8 LEDS at 700 ma is quite a bit more lighting and heat, so looking forward to see them spark up (Wearing Sunglasses) :beachbum:

2016-04-22_ATS-Phase4_zpsvws5xcml.jpg~original


This is a rough layout. May adjust LED placements once Unit is built.
 
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LED PANEL TEST (Rough Install). Should have worn Sunglasses!

I didn't look long at the Turned-ON Panel, but I see spots afterwards.

2016-04-22_ATS-PhaseV_zpsxrnhqsnr.jpg~original



The Heatsink gets a Tiny Bit Warm. Sure it's oversized, but better Oversized than Under. (I do know the LED's do get quite hot alone)

Interesting that The Blue LED, turns things Purple. When I cover the Blue, things go RED.

I also tested the 0-10 Volt Dimming. (Working as expected).

MINI Experiment (LED PANEL)

I picked up a Hanging Basket over the weekend, and got this idea for it.

2016-04-22_ATS-GrowLightTest_zpsb1xvjyhh.jpg~original


Will see what happens in a week or so (On Timer a few hours a day). They do sell Red/Blue LED Grow Lights (China Sites).

Might be Better than in the Cold Garage.

Also that Silver Plastic Frame is a broken Laundry Hamper Bag Frame that was destined for the Garbage tomorrow.
Bit of tape and it has a new Life!! :)
 
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Nice Wally! Still following :)
Why not any white LEDs?

Best Algae Grow Lights are aprrox 7:1 RED:BLUE. White not needed.
Check out the China Grow Lights. All kinds.

You can even SUPER CHARGE Plant Growth with a "UV LED" added, but it's harmful to human eyes.
 
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LED Panel (Triggers Plant Bloom)

Amazing. Less than 2 days, approx. 22 Light hours, and I see blooming on plant. Nice Colors on Plant too.

Even in the summer Sun I don't get this kind of growth!!

2016-04-27_GrowLight-2days_zps8dgn8qny.jpg~original


Wish there was a miracle light like this for Corals. (Maybe not. Too fast).

I have 26 spare LED's, so might build a plant starter. For tomato seedlings too!!
 
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Best Algae Grow Lights are aprrox 7:1 RED:BLUE. White not needed.
Check out the China Grow Lights. All kinds.

You can even SUPER CHARGE Plant Growth with a "UV LED" added, but it's harmful to human eyes.

But do aquatic algea have the same spectrum requirements as terrestrial plants?
 
But do aquatic algea have the same spectrum requirements as terrestrial plants?

I'm no expert. Just learning bit by bit and experimenting.

But I have to be careful since that Experiment with the RGB Strip (used for WHite) got me into a lot of Algae trouble.
 
2 NEW Fish in Quarentine Area of Sump

So I've given up on getting a BlackCap Basslet, which I've been trying to get for months.

Came across these two fish at a store that started Fish Stock.

2016-04-28_New-WraseFish_zpsyzuy9co7.jpg~original


Small fish, but will add to the tank nutrient load. Nice colors too.

I do understand that the Leopard Wrasse is difficult to get eating. But I do farm live food for my Madarin so have a chance.
 
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I have found 6 line wrasses to be one of the most belligerent and intolerant of all fish in the ocean... I'd never add one to a tank..
Maybe you should keep the blackcap and the very nice leopard wrasse and leave the 6line in the sump.
 
I have found 6 line wrasses to be one of the most belligerent and intolerant of all fish in the ocean... I'd never add one to a tank..
Maybe you should keep the blackcap and the very nice leopard wrasse and leave the 6line in the sump.

Hmmm. Interesting. I might do that.

For now, plan is this. (Plenty of time to figure things out during 8 week QT).
** IF THE LEOPARD WRASSE survives ***

2016-04-30-NewFishBreakup_zpsueqwveui.jpg~original
 
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I'd put the leopard wrasse where you have the greatest density of live copepods.. this will give it the greatest chance of adapting to captive foods..
 
I'd put the leopard wrasse where you have the greatest density of live copepods.. this will give it the greatest chance of adapting to captive foods..

How about the 10 Gallon Copepod farm. Just kidding.

I am dumping live copepods into the QT everyother day and adding phytopheast. Even today the leopard is picking all over the place after 1 day there.

I just started a batch of live baby brineshrimps, feed by phyto to add later.

and I am feeding tiny bit of frozen brineshrimp.

Plus i have some left over frozen cubes of Piscine Energetics PE Calanus, which are decapd zooplankton. tiny feed.
 
of course.. nice!
I just had a d'oh! moment, thinking for a second that you may be underprepared!
you have it all under control, Wally. :)
 
And I put in a couple of pieces of live rock from my Tank Sump.

Amphipods were crawling all over it, so even more food for Leopard.

This QT is as established as can be.

Will do water changes from Established Tank too, so Fresh QT shouldn't cycle much at all. Correct?

BTW. I'm no expert, but do learn things along the way, using some common sense, and drawing from past mistakes.
 
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Improved the QT for Leopard Wrasse

This should make the Leopoard Wrase a bit more comfortable.

- Some Live Rock from Display Tank Sump (Loaded with Encrustations/Ampipods)
- Thick 3" Layer of Aragonite Sand (Seeded from Display Tank)

- Dumped in some Live Copepods, with PhtytoPlankton.
- Couple of Hermits to keep things tidy
- 1 Snail to clean Glass

2016-04-30_SumpQT-Improved_zpshryqgjdu.jpg~original


Took off Zoa Frags from Tray for now. By Accident, broke the tray gluing.

Hoping things go well.

Now to prepare the rest of the sump for the Black Cap Basslet. (Something similar, but no SandBed)
 
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And I put in a couple of pieces of live rock from my Tank Sump.

Amphipods were crawling all over it, so even more food for Leopard.

This QT is as established as can be.

Will do water changes from Established Tank too, so Fresh QT shouldn't cycle much at all. Correct?

BTW. I'm no expert, but do learn things along the way, using some common sense, and drawing from past mistakes.

Correct! Will help a lot.
You are always thorough.
That'll be one happy wrasse.
 
For the Records SUMP QT-Tank-"Leo" [ NO3=2.5ppm, Salinity=1.025 ] May 01,2016

I don't think I need to check anything else. Don't have a Nitrite, or Ammonia kit.
 
I have found 6 line wrasses to be one of the most belligerent and intolerant of all fish in the ocean... I'd never add one to a tank..
Maybe you should keep the blackcap and the very nice leopard wrasse and leave the 6line in the sump.

** TOTALLY AGREE after a post on my other thread ***

I had a Sixline pair and a Mandarin pair in my 450 gal. They did great for 1+ year. Then the Sixline pair decided to eliminate the competitor. They attack the female Mandarin. A few seconds was what it took I witness the whole thing and cannot do anything about it. The Sixline pair dive at my female Mandarin a peck her eyes out. One attacked one eye and the other attacked the other eye. No more than 3 seconds and they got what they wanted, no more competitor. The totally ignored the Mandarin after they blinded her.

- BYE BYE (Six Line). Either I return it, or it become a Refuge Inhabitant.
 
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