Holy reefer!!!! Dd 250 custom

[prop-frags]

Lookin Sweet

Lookin Sweet

T - the setup is looking awesome. I hope you'll stop in if you are ever coming north...we'll do the same and look you up when we head down your way.

We are getting black acrylic overflow covers made up for our stock DD overflows. I'll get around to posting that stuff one day

 

[Padrino]

THIS IS AMAZING. I wish i found this thread earlier as i am in the works of looking for a house to do something like this.

Please excuse me as I'm a little late to this thread but i have a few questions.
First i love the sump? its not acrylic you mentioned it was some other type of plastic polyethylene or something?? How was that to work with and how did you glue it or secure it together? It really does look awesome!

Second i noticed that you used abs fittings for your overflow, i guess that doesn't really matter since your not gluing any flex tubing to it and it just sits in the bulkheads.

Also i really like the work you did with the tank at marineland! great design. But i don't think i caught the dimensions of the tank anywhere.

Im still on page 2 so ill try and catch up. Amazing so far. Blows my mind away!

???

 

[teesquare]

Sorry Padrino - I must have fallen "asleep at the switch"....

The sump is made of polypropylene. It is less expensive than acrylic. But - it is not a material that you can glue. It must be welded. So - there are advantages and dis-avantages, but overall - for a big sump, and as long as you know what you really want teh sump to do - it is great.
I can post some pics of the welds if you like. It requires a hot-air welder and welding rod of the same material.

Yes, the fittings in the overflow are ABS. Because there is no pressure on them, and - they are black.....they just worked out well. They are siliconed together tho - just to seal the joints.
Thanks for the compliments! The guys at the factory (Marineland tabks are built at Perfecto plant in Indiana) are great to work with, and anxious to create stuff that is differerent.
This was the first tank that they had water jetted the arched front and rear glass. It saved labor, looks cleaner, and is stronger than if we had gone the traditional route of just silicone and cut glass to build - up the overflow.
The tank is based on their new standard "Deep Dimension" series. It is a 60'' L x 36"" D x 27''H, ( their 250 gal size) plus the overflow. So it totals close to 70'' in length.
Thanks for the reminder post - again, just missed your earlier post, sorry. Any other questions, please ask away!

 

[dave.m]

I don't like teeth on a weir (overflow) they catch debris

The purpose of the crenelations at the top of the weir is to create surface turbulence. There is an oily layer that builds up on the surface of the tank water that prevents gas exchange. This oily layer does not break up over a smooth overflow. The turbulence created by the crenelations breaks up this oily layer so that it can be drained away for treatment by your protein skimmer. IIRC this is described in The Reef Aquarium Vol. 1.

On the use of ABS, the stuff leaches toxins. That's why you aren't allowed to use ABS for drinking water, only for sewer drains. I think we have to ask ourselves if we want our pets living in water that's not fit enough for us.

Sorry to be a downer.

Dave.M

 

[teesquare]

The purpose of the crenelations at the top of the weir is to create surface turbulence. There is an oily layer that builds up on the surface of the tank water that prevents gas exchange. This oily layer does not break up over a smooth overflow. Sorry Dave but, that is just NOT true. I can assure you that with a reasonable flow rate, and any kind of machanical filtration, or skimming - a surface film with a smooth top overflow is not an issue. This ain't my first rodeo:thumbsup: I have built systems for years, for others.The turbulence created by the crenelations breaks up this oily layer so that it can be drained away for treatment by your protein skimmer. IIRC this is described in The Reef Aquarium Vol. 1.Again, - in context, and without intentional offense....just because it was written somewhere ( like here?:lol2: doeasn't make it an absolute. I only know from doing it. Not reading it.

A great thread that describes and discusses this overflow method if the "Safe and Silent Overflow Method" thread by BeanAnimal. Great info. BTW - Anonthy Calfow bases his desogns on the smooth - or toothless weir as well as others

On the use of ABS, the stuff leaches toxins. Again - the same is said of PVC by the opponents ( usually the manufactuers of the OTHER product in the arguement). Again, having used this material for YEARS with no problems - and because I am not drinking the tank water - I think it will be o.k.:wavehand:That's why you aren't allowed to use ABS for drinking water, only for sewer drains. I think we have to ask ourselves if we want our pets living in water that's not fit enough for us.
And we also have to ask ourselves if we are going to be over-reactive when we read that the world will end in 2012:fun5:
Sorry to be a downer.Not at all! I think we are all entitled to our opnions, and we are just as entitled to be wrong. :fun4:And to learn from one another.

Dave.M

 

[dave.m]

I think we are all entitled to our opnions, and we are just as entitled to be wrong.

Okay. I wasn't trying to pick a quarrel, only relating what my understanding is, since you didn't qualify your statements.

Dave.M

 

[Padrino]

Thanks and good response!
i'm really interested in the sump construction. Could you please post the pictures of the sump and its construction? That would be really great!

 

[teesquare]

Dave-No harm done! I truly was not interested in an arguement either. I tried to express that with the emoticons - the funny animations. Sometime the way we intend things to sound does not come agross well in text. I certainly do not want to offend you - and I encourage your input.
I can say that I have several hundred tank set up and plumbing jobs under my belt. But I still learn new things from others all the time.

If you look back in this thread you can see that the return from the sump is high, and in the back of the tank. there are 4 returns, that are driven by an OM-4, and that "pushes" the water from the far end of the tank (opposite end of the overflow) toward the overflow. it is not possible for there to be a "film" on the surface because of the slight surface turbulance, and the turnover rate in the tank.

The potential downside of the smooth overflow may be that some fish will "go for a ride" over the overflow....My opinion is that this will only occur if the fish is sick, or asleep. Normally they will sense the pressure differential in front of the overflow, and move away.

But if you look at the sump design, you will see that there are 2 sediment traps in the beginning of it ( where the oeverflow drains to). I have only had one fish go over the overflow thus far - and I netted him out of the sediment trap - no harm done. He had been down there a couple of days when I noticed him missing and went looking for him.

Cheers!:beer:

T

 

[teesquare]

Padrino - will take some pics today. Sorry I do not have sump construction pics, but will take pics of the welds, and the tool you would need to do this work with.
It is not expensive, but it does take a bit of practice and patience to get it right. I did not build this one, but have built and repaired plastics projects on a smaller scale with this method.

I just plainly got lucky and found this sump as a part of a lot of other stuff that a guy was selling here on RC. It was in Indiana, and a friend of mine was working up there for a week, and brought it back for me. I did make some modifications to it, but it was basically built and useable.
T

 

[dave.m]

T, exactly my sentiments. I don't know how else I'll learn about "the other side of the argument" if I don't at least raise the subject. Thx for your prompt replies.

Dave.M

 

[dave.m]

...

 

[teesquare]

Thanks for having a generous and open mind for discussion Dave!
You are always welcome here.

T

 

[teesquare]

Mike - looks like I missed your post as well...sorry - I have been watching your build too, and MAN! It is looking good!

I would love to come North ( in the summer:lol2: and visit, talk fish/corals and so on!) and escape for a while!

T

 

[teesquare]

Padrino:
Here is a link to a good video clip of this type of tool in action

http://www.louzampini.com/Handheld-Hot-Air-Plastic-Welders-s/25.htm

And some pics of my sump's welded joints:





Notice there are 2 beads in the corners. The partitions have one one either side of them.

T

 

[teesquare]

And....This is the new light hood lift. Just gotta get some volunteers ( READ: victims) to help me get it mounted...

 

[Padrino]

Where did you pick this up. Can you provide more specs. This looks very interesting.

BTW if you send me a ticket ill be there in a heart beat

 

[teesquare]

Where did you pick this up. Can you provide more specs. This looks very interesting.
Wish I could help you more...I can't remember the guy's name - he advertised it here on RC, as he had bought out a store, and was selling everything large to just keep the smaller stuff. You may want to talk to anyone in the plastic fbrication business near you. Tell them you are o.k. with scratched material, and whatever else thay can do to save you money.
Additionally - talk to plastics suppliers in your area for references, and recommendations for small fab shops.

BTW if you send me a ticket ill be there in a heart beat

HAHA! I guess winter has taken a toll on you in the "Great White North - eh? Summer is coming - hang on!

T

 

[mseepman]

Where did the light lifter come from...can you explain how you plan to mount it?

 

[teesquare]

Thr below is the web address of the company that I ordered it from

firgelli auto dot com

I referenced this thread, but will be altering a few things from his approach:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1674506

T

 

[prop-frags]

Tee....Where are you Tee.... We need an update!