How do I get rid of this algae
- Thread starter steo123
- Start date
mcgyvr
New member
To start you need to test for nitrates and phosphates and post those results..
We can provide suggestions on how best to address those nutrients based on their levels...
BUT...nutrient reduction and ridding the tank of algae that way alone is a long process (months or more)..
While you certainly want to address the nutrient levels I would highly suggest purchasing Reef Flux (fluconazole) and following the directions..
That will allow you to hopefully eliminate the visual algae in a month or less
I wouldnt be surprised if the root cause is overfeeding so you may also want to cut back on feedings...What is your current feeding amount and frequency as well as fish count
Daylight is not good, generally: you'll end up with a cyanobacterial bloom, and algae problems. Keep the lighting to what you can time and control the spectrum of...
The algae is due to nutrients in the tank, and often to nutrients in the rock that will leach out slowly over time. It took mine two YEARS to be done with that phase. Meanwhile fix everything you can fix BEFORE fluconazole, and it'll guarantee that works well when you get down to using it. Not fixing means dubious results.
If it's any consolation most tanks go through this. Patience, and getting the water into good shape are key.
The algae is due to nutrients in the tank, and often to nutrients in the rock that will leach out slowly over time. It took mine two YEARS to be done with that phase. Meanwhile fix everything you can fix BEFORE fluconazole, and it'll guarantee that works well when you get down to using it. Not fixing means dubious results.
If it's any consolation most tanks go through this. Patience, and getting the water into good shape are key.
Ok. Here’s what you do. You need to set a ball chaeto in your sump and light the crap out of it. Light it better than you do the main display. Once the chaeto starts growing it will out compete the algae in the tank. Especially if you back down the lighting schedule of the main display. Basically you want that ball of chaeto eating everything nutrient wise before the other algea can. Then the only algea you’ll have is the chaeto.
And yes snails and emerald crabs can help. Testing for phosphate and nitrates doesn’t work because that algea in the tank has it locked up. If you were to take all that algea blend it up and pour it back in the tank then you could test. How it is now it pretty useless to test.
And yes snails and emerald crabs can help. Testing for phosphate and nitrates doesn’t work because that algea in the tank has it locked up. If you were to take all that algea blend it up and pour it back in the tank then you could test. How it is now it pretty useless to test.
I use an algae turf scrubber that has eaten through all the nutrients that leached out of my rocks and now I have to feed it to keep it up.
Nutrient export is always a good way to keep things in check and create a balanced ecosystem (harder than it sounds)
If I had a sump I'd probably use cheato but mine is a tank only.
Found that Halloween hermits were perfect for my tank to clean up the first blooms of algae though.
As another poster mentioned, every tank goes through these sorts of cycles
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Small Heavens
New member
It does look a lot like ugly tank stage, use it to investigate what options you have to control the nutrients, you will always be most happy when you picked something because you like it, rather than feeling pressured into buying something to fix something else.
1- You can dose phytoplankton of the type Synechococcus, that should also help keep the "ugly tank" stage out. Synechococcus should be available to buy for immediate dosing or to start up a culture at home. It handles itself very well against the red slime algae in tank conditions and meanwhile consumes the same nutrients, giving you some more help in cleaning it while everything stabilises itself.
2 - Bispiras (featherworms) come in a dwarf version that makes soft tubes. Those tiny featherworms can be easily cultured in tank conditions and tend to be extremely helpful in grabbing small particles in the water column. This does not directly compete with the nutrients used by the red slime algae BUT it prevents those particles from dropping onto the sandbed and thus indirectly tend to help in keeping a clean sandbed and LR. Ask around your local LFS for the small featherworms, I don't dismiss the powers of the bigger feathers but the small ones just populate a tank easily and fast and they spawn lots of live food for the inhabitants of your tank as well.
3 - to "fast" rinse your system of Phosphates or Nitrates, you can use the old "vodka" method of adding aquarium "vodka" which cause a bloom in beneficial bacteria, or the more modern way, make water changes using salt that has been sprayed with bacteria that consumes phosphates and nitrates. Remember to never store bacteria enhanced salt mixed for any longer than adviced by the lable.
Enjoy
1- You can dose phytoplankton of the type Synechococcus, that should also help keep the "ugly tank" stage out. Synechococcus should be available to buy for immediate dosing or to start up a culture at home. It handles itself very well against the red slime algae in tank conditions and meanwhile consumes the same nutrients, giving you some more help in cleaning it while everything stabilises itself.
2 - Bispiras (featherworms) come in a dwarf version that makes soft tubes. Those tiny featherworms can be easily cultured in tank conditions and tend to be extremely helpful in grabbing small particles in the water column. This does not directly compete with the nutrients used by the red slime algae BUT it prevents those particles from dropping onto the sandbed and thus indirectly tend to help in keeping a clean sandbed and LR. Ask around your local LFS for the small featherworms, I don't dismiss the powers of the bigger feathers but the small ones just populate a tank easily and fast and they spawn lots of live food for the inhabitants of your tank as well.
3 - to "fast" rinse your system of Phosphates or Nitrates, you can use the old "vodka" method of adding aquarium "vodka" which cause a bloom in beneficial bacteria, or the more modern way, make water changes using salt that has been sprayed with bacteria that consumes phosphates and nitrates. Remember to never store bacteria enhanced salt mixed for any longer than adviced by the lable.
Enjoy
Hey [MENTION=368596]Small Heavens[/MENTION], just curious since I stumbled across this researching an issue. What salt are you referring to that is sprayed with bacteria?
boombox3
New member
Find yourself some red legged hermit crabs not too many though. They will end up starving if there are too many. In my 29 gallon i have 5 that keep all my rocks perfect with coralline algae at this point. But my wall which is unreachable to them is filled with hair algae. I dont do enough water changes to mitigate algae. I could purchase some cheato but for whatever reason it dies on me. So really its water changes and your inhabitants and making sure your lights are not kept on all day. Also reduce Your feedings yo every other day. I used to do many years ago 1 water change every week. But really biweekly is better. Stresses less the coral. Also you can purchase a lawnmower blenny to chomp down on the algae. Upgrading your filtration with different media may hellp as well. You can attack this at every angle. You got this! Hope this helps.
winecooler5
New member
Water Exchange would be a great idea.
ReeferNoob4ever
New member
If it's a small enough tank, take those rocks out during a water change and scrub them down with a decent stiff bristled brush in the water change water. Do more frequent water changes from that point forward, make sure you aren't over feeding and keep the light duration to a minimum. Add an urchin if you don't mind it also eating your purple algae.
Similar threads
