how do you quarentine a 10 inch fish?

[sensei]

I have a unicorn tang in a 150 g DT, he is 10 inches now.
When I started I did know the quarentine practices so the fish was never quarentined, and although he shows no signs of ich I need to be sure before I move him to my 470g DT.
I plan to treat him with Tank Transffer Method + Prazi, but how do I do the transffers transffering the minimal amount of water from transffer to transffer with such a big fish?

he is so big that I can not move him with my hands or he is going to fight and jump all over

I apreciate your help

 

[ThRoewer]

How long do you have him?
Was there ever ich in the tank?
Are there any indications that he may have flukes or intestinal worms?

 

[sensei]

I have had him for almost 3 years now since I started that tank, but I did not quarentine anything at that time. Now I quarentine everything including inverts and corals for 72 days in a fishless quarentine tank.

he is the one in the photo of my profile picture, 3 years ago.

a couple of fish have died in that tank. I have never seen an ich outbreak but since I did not quarentine anything in that tank I have to assume there is ich or other pests before passing him over to my new 470G DT to be in the safe side

please tell me what do you think

 

[Dmorty217]

I would suspect flukes or some other disease than ich. Ich rarely kills healthy, established fish. As far as moving a fish that size I would find a large colander or large plastic pitcher.

 

[scooter31707]

You might can look into a Brute trash can.

 

[Sk8r]

A Brute can would be the best. But honestly, if no ich has shown up in 3 years, probably there is none. There is a post specifically on the ich life cycle, either here or in Reef Discussion. While the stuff is tough and sneaky, it is pretty well gone after 72 days, even in encysted form. If it can't reproduce, it's toast. You've been 15x the 72 days and haven't seen it. So the chances of it being in there in the gills of some fish are pretty low. I wouldn't risk a fish that has been with me that long for something that is pretty low in the odds of happening. That's me. Equally valid concern you express. Just sayin'. This is the article I was trying to remember: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196 And there's another by Snorvich on the same topic right with it in Fish Disease.

 

[Breadman03]

I drilled a bunch of holes in a bucket to let my crabbing stuff drain. Perhaps you could use something similar and dip it in an intermediate tank between transfers to rinse off as much "dirty" water as possible.

 

[ThRoewer]

A Brute can would be the best. But honestly, if no ich has shown up in 3 years, probably there is none. There is a post specifically on the ich life cycle, either here or in Reef Discussion. While the stuff is tough and sneaky, it is pretty well gone after 72 days, even in encysted form. If it can't reproduce, it's toast. You've been 15x the 72 days and haven't seen it. So the chances of it being in there in the gills of some fish are pretty low. I wouldn't risk a fish that has been with me that long for something that is pretty low in the odds of happening. That's me. Equally valid concern you express. Just sayin'. This is the article I was trying to remember: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196 And there's another by Snorvich on the same topic right with it in Fish Disease.

This
That's why I asked if any fish had shown ich. Don't risk an established fish on a wild goose chase.
The "parasites hiding in the gills" doesn't apply to ich but rather to the more virulent parasites Amyloodinium, Brooklynella and the like.
Studies on Cryptocaryon have shown that, in case of an infection, it is found on all parts of the body equally likely.

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[sensei]

I have thought about it a lot, but the problem is that in my new 470 galons DT I have done everything by the book, quarantining everything, including the snails and live rock for 72 days in a fishless tank and I would be in great trouble if ich gets into that big system.

Also I would not be thinking of moving him to the 470g tank, but he has outgrown the 150g tank. I just did not know he needed a bigger tank when I started this hobby.


so I need to figure out a safe way to do the TTM to this fish.

advices welcomed please

 

[sensei]

A Brute can would be the best. But honestly, if no ich has shown up in 3 years, probably there is none. There is a post specifically on the ich life cycle, either here or in Reef Discussion. While the stuff is tough and sneaky, it is pretty well gone after 72 days, even in encysted form. If it can't reproduce, it's toast. You've been 15x the 72 days and haven't seen it. So the chances of it being in there in the gills of some fish are pretty low. I wouldn't risk a fish that has been with me that long for something that is pretty low in the odds of happening. That's me. Equally valid concern you express. Just sayin'. This is the article I was trying to remember: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196 And there's another by Snorvich on the same topic right with it in Fish Disease.

Thanks for your answer.
I have read the thread and Snovich recommends to quarantine everything that is going into the DT. this is why I am doing it.
Io my understanding, some fish have some kind of immunity to ich but they may still carry it

Believe me that I do not like the idea of quarantining the 10 inch unicorn tang that I have had for 3 years, but I see no other safe way out.

 

[ThRoewer]

If you want to put the fish through TTM I would get some large clear bins (Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Container Store,...) and use those. At least in those you can observe the fish and they are cheap enough to buy a few.

 

[sensei]

I have several 20g glass tanks for TTM. that is not a concern.
the problem is how to transfer the 10" fish from one tank to his next transfer with out hurting the fish and without transferring to much water to next tank.
If I use a colander, a fish this size will fight when left dry and can hurt himself

 

[ThRoewer]

No need to leave it dry. Just scoop it up with a large enough container or colander.
In theory TTM can be performed with the same water. The key to TTM is to remove and sterilize all hard surfaces where cysts could attach.

If you want to be extra sure you can always combine TTM with hyposalinity.

 

[m0nkie]

I would just use a colander to scoop him up. They sell flat ones that fit right into the tank.

Avoid scraping up any of the glass bottom. if you do get some water in the new tank, it's not the end of the world. If anything just do a few more transfers, just in case!

I was able to help my friend scoop up a 8" blonde naso tang before. He's had him for a few years so the fish knows him. Wasn't too bad when we caught him. I just put on thick plumber gloves and scooped him out

maybe switch to 40gal or bigger QT? 20gal seems tiny. IKEA/Home Depot sell large see through containers for $15

 

[1jwampler]

I agree with QT, all tanks go through a cycle which may result in many new stresses for your inhabitants. While QT is a PITA, you'd go crazy if you had an outbreak and didn't, worse yet it may not even be that fish, but, you'd never know.

Home Depot has some pretty large Rubbermaid totes that could hold about 20 gallons of water but give much more swimming room than a trash can.

Of course Petco usually has aquariums (small) for $1/gal so this my also be a cheap sure thing with some resale value.


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[m0nkie]

I think with a tank that size, it's smart to just stock up a few 40-60gal as QT and as emergency tanks. You never know when you will need to pull out some tangs for treatment.

I'm in the middle of setting up my 560. I'm using my 100gals and 60gals as QTs