I've taken the rock with eggs out of the main tank and put them in a 2-g tank, I have an air stone under the rock going over the eggs. I noticed some of the eggs have come off the rock. How do you know how much air to have going over the eggs and should the air bubbles hit the eggs?
How much aerations over clown fish eggs??
- Thread starter Glennw
- Start date
Sport507
~Just a Farm Boy~
I saw a thread on here that has the answers to your questions just can't remember what it was called.:facepalm:
At this stage of the game turn the air down to a slow trickle. Just enough to circulate the water, but not so strong that the larval fish can't swim against the current. Feed rotifers in sufficient quantity, and as often as necessary to maintain a minimum rotifer density that will allow the larvae to encounter a rotifer without swimming more than 1.5 body lengths. About as soon as the head looks big enough to swallow a newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii, it's time to introduce some nauplii along with the rots. Also Otohime A can be introduced right away as a good dry food.
1. i leave the airstone on all the time. you want a little water movement to keep the rots moving around so the fry dont have far to go.
2. i would feed them only as much as they eat. there is no set amount. dont add too many as it will drop the O2 levels and the fry might die, and the increased rots will add ammonia and kill everyone too. get a glass test tube like from an API test kit and scoop some water and see if you see alot of rots, then leave them alone or thin out the rots. all depends on how many fry per tank, per the size of the tank too. rots will multiply in thet ank as well.
3-4. feed them rotifers for like a week or so until they go thru their meta. that is when they will start to get their head stripe. i wouldnt do BBS. they are a pain really and you got to time them hatching and feeding them. i would use otohime. reeeds mariculture sells a starter otohime kit for only like $50 and it will last you a long time. start the otohime on day 3 or 4. only sprinkle a tiny amount and also feeds rots till they are feeding the otohime off the surface of the water. then just keep them on otohime. its much easier to feed them flake and pellet in the future. weening off BBS to pellet can be a pain.
5. i leave the lights on for 12 hours. same as the parents tank for me. you can do it less or more. i leave the light on for the first day for 24hrs then back to reg schedule.
i feed my rots in the bucket reeds mariculture nanno 3600 and i used reeds rotigrow complete in the fry tanks or nanno. i dont have luck sustaining rot cultures using the rotigrow complete but i do using the nanno 3600. its not cheap, but is great. also use some amquel+ in the rots bucket to keep the ammonia down. you can also put in some amquel+ into the fry tank as well. i do it every other day. also get some ammonia badges and put them in the fry tank. if the ammonia is creeping up, do a quick little WC.
also make sure you do water changes. add some water on day 2.start on day 3 and use a airline to syphon out crud off the bottom. and then drip in some fresh saltwater after you syphon some out.
here is my maint schedule for fry tanks.i use a 5.5g tank for smaller hatches for under 500 eggs. i put in like 2-3gal in the tank, just enough to cover the clay pot. (cover with water what ever you have the eggs on. tiles, rock etc.)
then the next day i add a gal of water by dripping it in. on the 3rd or 4th day i syphon out 5. to a gal by sucking the crud off the bottom. then drip back a little more than what you take out. i do this every other day. this will keep the ammonia down. ammonia will build up from the rots and fry poop and also the food for the rots wether is nanno or whatever you use.
Similar threads
