How to avoid Phytoplankton crashes

I have tried to start cultures from discs from FAF and failed each time, but left the bottles running and ended up with a green algae eventually starting, even though the disc was iso in one case.
I bought some live nannochloropsis, used that as a starter, and the same thing happened with that starter as well.
This live nanno I added an equal qty of sterilized water to and added the F2 and put it under lights. The culture faded and turned a little "whitish" and then started to green up again.
It went very dark in color but the color has a blue tint to it, unlike the original nanno concentrate before and after dilution.
This same blue tinted green algae is what has grown from the FAF discs I purchased, 1 nannochloropsis, 1 iso, and another motile one I forget the name of just at the moment.
Whatever it is, it grows well, and I have many 26g Rubbermaid containers of it growing, each under a 75 watt GE spot light.
Maybe someone knows what kind of algae is likely to grow in a container after the original culture crashes.
 
All the culture discs I used from Florida Aqua Farms are sterile but it still didn't work for me.
Also, your link doesn't work for me either.
 
Hola a todos
No me expreso bien en inglés, pero si comprendo lo que se escribe. Agradeceria que alguien traduciera mi escrito.
Os muestro unas imagenes de mi visita a una empresa para la producción industrial de fitoplancton, situada en Cadiz (España)

La producción empieza con unas cepas selecionadas de la especie que se va a cultivar. En este caso concreto se trata de Nannochloropsis gaditana.
En esta foto podeis ver los inóculos para el cultivo
easyalgae2.jpg

Estos cilindros son inoculados con las cepas. Podeis observar el color verde claro que indica una baja concentración de fitoplancton
easyalgae3.jpg

Después de 7 dias aproximadamente, llegan a su máxima concentración. Se aprecia claramente el color verde oscuro de los cilindros.
easyalgae4.jpg

Con los cilindros al máximo de concentración, se inoculan los biorreactores de 6000 litros de capacidad
biorreactores.jpg

Una semana más tarde el cultivo está completado, y listo para su comercialización.

Os explico algunos detalles para la producción de fitoplancton, que son muy interesantes para tener exito en el cultivo.
La iluminación del cultivo se realiza con tubos fluorescentes Sylvania Aquastar 10000 ºK. El fotoperiodo es de 24 h.
El fertilizante es producido por ellos, en base a una formuacion tipo Medio Walne. Se utiliza 1 ml. diario de fertilizante para 1L. de cultivo.
Los cultivos se suelen perder al llegar a su máxima concentración. Esto es provocado por el Co2, que causa una dramatica caida del PH.
Para la esterilización de los recipientes, se utiliza una mezcla de hipoclorito sodico y agua (150 ml hipoclorito / 850 ml. de agua). Esta mezcla se deja actuar durante 24 h.
Despues se enjuaga con agua
Se llenan otra vez los recipientes con una mezcla de acido clorhidrico de uso domestico (100 ml acido/ 900 ml de agua). Esta mezcla de deja actuar durante 6 h. para neutralizar cualquier resto de hipoclorito.
Se vuelve a enjuagar con agua, y ya está listo para ser usado.

Os muestro unas fotos de mi biorreactor DIY para fitoplancton y rotíferos. Los cilindros más cortos son para el cultivo de rotífero, el más alto, para fitoplancton.
frente.jpg

lat.jpg

trasera.jpg

arriba.jpg


Feliz Navidad:)
 
Oh man, that is awesome. I know some Spanish so I have some idea of what was discussed, but it just made me want a wall of phytoplankton growing in my living room just for the mad scientist look. :D

I'll see if I can round up a spanish speaking TRC member to translate.
 
Google translation

Hello to all I do not express myself well in English, but I include/understand what it is written. Agradeceria that somebody traduciera my writing. I show images to you of my visit a company for the industrial production of phytoplankton, located in Cadiz (Spain) The production begins with selecionadas stocks of the species that is going away to cultivate. In this tactical mission one is gaditana Nannochloropsis. In this photo podeis to see the inóculos for the culture

These cylinders are inoculated with the stocks. Podeis to observe clear the green color that it indicates a low concentration of phytoplankton

After 7 days approximately, they arrive at its Maxima concentration. The dark green color of the cylinders is appraised clearly.

With the concentration cylinders to the maximum, the biorreactores of 6000 liters of capacity inoculate

One week later the culture is completed, and ready for its commercialization. I explain some details to you for the phytoplankton production, that are very interesting to be successful in the culture. The illumination of the culture is made with fluorescent tubes Sylvania Aquastar 10000 ºK. Fotoperiodo is of 24 h. The fertilizer is produced by them, on the basis of one formuacion type Average Walne. 1 mililiter daily of fertilizer for 1L is used. of culture. The cultures usually lose when arriving at their Maxima concentration. This is caused by the CO2, that causes a dramatic fall of the PH. For the sterilization of the containers, it is used a mixture of sodico hipoclorito and water (150 850 hipoclorito mililiter/mililiter of water). This mixture is let act during 24 h. Later it is rinsed with water They again fill to the containers with a hydrochlorate acid mixture of use domestic servant (100 acid mililiter 900 mililiter of water). This mixture of lets act during 6 h. in order to neutralize any rest of hipoclorito. One becomes to rinse with water, and he is already ready to be used. I show to photos of my biorreactor DIY for phytoplankton and rotifers to you. The shortest cylinders are for the rotifer culture, upper, for phytoplankton.

Merry Christmas
 
Hello everyone! I just thought I would add my comments. melev
I use your website http://www.melevsreef.com/phytoplankton.html
to culture my phyto. I purchased a small bottle from ebay and I have had it growing since late summer. I had 1 bottle crash and that was my fault for not cleaning the bottle very well. I also use miracle grow in mine and have not had a problem yet. I am sorry that you are having trouble growing phyto, but you site has helped my so much and by the way I run my bubbles full open and still it gets dark green
 
Syntax, when I started this thread, it was a long time ago. I've been growing it quite well for the past year now, as is listed on the page you linked. Thanks for taking the time to include your experience.
 
sorry to jump in late, but i use bleach to sterilize the water and container. i put 10 ml bleach in a 5 gallon carboy, and let it sit for 24 hours. then i add 2.5ml sodium thio and air to remove the chlorine. 24 hours later, i add the f/2 media and inoculate. as long as the air is filtered, and there is a plug to prevent bacteria/rotifers from entering the culture container, the culture should be able to be kept wihout crashing for months.
 
what are the brown phyto's/phyto? i have some nano that has been going for a few months now and decided to try the DT's to try to get a different strain. well its brown, its not crashed its just a brown strain. anyone know what kind it is? i have continued to culture it and its doing great but i would like to know what strain it is? any help would be great, thanks in advance!
 
Question?
Melev when you say your bubbling your phyto, from your site, is that with just standard air or CO2.
If anyone has any feedback with pro's/con's of CO2 vs just air bubbling please feel free to speak up.
 
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