How to avoid Phytoplankton crashes

[WaterKeeper]

The problem with DT cultures is they get old, like yours truly, and lose their reproductive punch.

:eek1:

 

[gotdibz]

ok guys heres my update so far

so i bought the supplies needed from Floridaaquafarms , the culture disk and the micro algae grow out food.
Im going to experiment with 2 different methods of growing phyto.

1. on my first botlle I will add 1/2 of the culture disk , 5ml Miracle grow plant food, and 1ml of essential elements

2 on my second botle i will add the other half of the culture disk, 2ml of micro algae grow out food, and 1ml of essential elements

The point of this little experiment is to see which bottle will do better and not crash, when i established which bottle does better, i will continue to culture my phyto with the best method possible.

heres my pictures so far ...looking good if i say so myself

 

[melev]

You didn't mark the bottles to tell which is which, did you? Put a rubber band around the one using Miracle Grow perhaps. It would be a shame to mix them up now that you've started your test.

 

[gotdibz]

hey melev i actually did mark them, its just really hard to tell on the pictures because i used a green sharpie, thanx for the heads up

 

[dcs03tx]

Has anyone tried adding Selcon to thier cultures? I havent tried it yet, was just wonderin if anyone else has. One of those many ideas that seem to pop into your head while you're sleepin LOL

 

[melev]

dcs03tx,

[welcome]

Selcon is mainly vitamin based, but who knows if that might cause the culture to crash? You could try it out I guess. Vitamins tend to break down over time, so perhaps by the time the phyto is harvested it may be vitamin-free.

 

[billsreef]

Vitamins won't cause a culture to crash, indeed they are a vital part of the f/2 media used to culture phyto. I would however worry about the HUFFA's, they are not as likely to be utilized by the phyto and more likely to promote bacterial problems with your culture.

 

[GreshamH]

They can't utilize HUFA's at all IIRC Bill.

 

[gwrench]

Phyto reactors

Phyto reactors

I have had continued success using UV sterilized aged (10-12 days) saltwater of a SG between 1.019-1.021
Secondary culturing is started with 4ml of f2 macro algae grow in 2.5 litre reactors, then 2-3 days after adding 1-2 ml more of f2
Usually after 5-7 days harvest can be done again. I highly suggest cleaning culture vessels every 2-3 cycles or if using 2 litre bottle use new ones. Temperature variations can also be a concern of cultures crashing as well as contamination.

Cleanliness, proper feeding, and prohibiting contamination is critical to have success.
Hope this helps
Regards,
George

 

[melev]

George, I love how clean your phyto station is. That's high class. :thumbsup:

 

[Ehgemus]

George, That is a great looking set-up.
Do you have to shake those up? or does the phyto not settle because of the funnel shape tubes?

 

[fry_school101]

George, That's a sWEEt setup!

 

[jrandreassen]

Hi Guy's...

OK, keep in mind I'm a newbie at this so be gentle .

Given that the Algae Grow supplement is mostly what we don't want in our tanks. Would it not be possible to utilize micro-algae growth to extract those things from our tanks ?(Nitrates, Phosphates, etc)
I understand that in order to get a culture to grow to any concentration, organisms that fee on them have to be eliminated.
So the question becomes....
1) What kind of filtration is necessary ?
(Settled, Skimmed, x-micron, and UV)
2) What additives would we still have to add?

What I was thinking of was to set up a water changing stageing in the garage. So I was thinking of doing an experiment with it.

Take a sample,
"Nuke it"... UV sterilize it (Or even boil if that would work)
Filter it through a couple of 10 - 50 micron bags/socks.
Add RO water to get the SG right
Then see if it will grow...
So I'll take any constuctive critisizm you might have...
JR

 

[scolymia]

You can try with this product:

http://www.easyreefs.com/

There is Nannochloropsis, Paeodactylum and Tetraselmis. It's liofilized.

We are using in Spain in our reefs and to breed rotifers as Brachionus.

 

[jrandreassen]

OK...
That's more of an additive.
I was thinking more like growing cultures in filtered tank water to extract nutrients and thereby putting another block of the cycle in our our bio-spheres.
It should be possible... Right ?
JR

 

[billsreef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10010489#post10010489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jrandreassen
OK...
That's more of an additive.
I was thinking more like growing cultures in filtered tank water to extract nutrients and thereby putting another block of the cycle in our our bio-spheres.
It should be possible... Right ?
JR

IIRC the old Aquarium Systems clownfish hatchery reused a large percentage of it's waste SW by putting it in outdoor concrete ponds with an assortment of micro and macro algaes to strip nutrients. So it is doable. If it's viable on a hobbyiest scale, especially when you compare the cost of electric used to the price of salt mix and RO/DI water is another question.

 

[KyleO]

I am only on my 5th (successful) batch of Phytoplankton but I would say turning up your air bubbles is going to do the trick. I am seeing some collection on the bottom of a few of those bottles. I don't see that with mine due to the much higher air bubble output in mine (I am thinking).

Also, with 2 bulbs you could be experiencing a temp shift inside the bottles that you are not aware of. Are you measuring the temp inside the bottles?

Thanks for all of your help in the past!!!!

 

[jrandreassen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10011853#post10011853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
IIRC the old Aquarium Systems clownfish hatchery reused a large percentage of it's waste SW by putting it in outdoor concrete ponds with an assortment of micro and macro algaes to strip nutrients. So it is doable. If it's viable on a hobbyiest scale, especially when you compare the cost of electric used to the price of salt mix and RO/DI water is another question.

The cost issue is a point, but if it was just a cost issue, our hobbies are a really bad idea.
To me it more a question of completing the circle and reducing the need for water changes.
My question, all cost aside, is one of process and viability.
How would I need to filter the water, what would I need to add to it ?
Temp, salinity etc.
Are there any good references out there ??
Thanks
JR

 

[billsreef]

JR,

Pick up a copy of Hoff's Plankton Culture Manual. That is "bible" of plankton culture For filtering the water, I would micron filter and follow that with UV in order to remove any pods, paramecium and other critters that would crash the phyto. I'd also suggest an easy growing phyto like Nanochloropsis as a good one to use. Depending on your "waste" water, you might need to only add some trace elements for the phyto, however, if your tank is low on nitrates on phosphates you still might want to use some Guillards f/2 media to ensure good phyto growth. If you let the culture go long enough, those nutrients will get completely used up

 

[jrandreassen]

I'll do that...
Thanks for the info.
When I get some time in the fall I'll take a stab at it, and I'll post a thread with the results.
JR

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10023472#post10023472 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
JR,

Pick up a copy of Hoff's Plankton Culture Manual. That is "bible" of plankton culture For filtering the water, I would micron filter and follow that with UV in order to remove any pods, paramecium and other critters that would crash the phyto. I'd also suggest an easy growing phyto like Nanochloropsis as a good one to use. Depending on your "waste" water, you might need to only add some trace elements for the phyto, however, if your tank is low on nitrates on phosphates you still might want to use some Guillards f/2 media to ensure good phyto growth. If you let the culture go long enough, those nutrients will get completely used up