I have trouble coloring up pinks!!

[Zacktosterone]

How did you make out

Still having issues. I'm going to change my lighting schedual and bulbs and order some reactors and see how it goes for 6 weeks. If it doesnt change I'll try the balling (I don't know how to spell it) method by fauna Marin.

 

[ajcanale]

IMO people seem to focus way too hard on lighting and trace elements (even nutrients) in these color deficient circumstances, when they don't even have their major 3 variables in balance

Riding this one, as I have a similar problem. But with reds, so I think maybe it might be similar

Params:
7 ALK
450 Ca
1440 Mg
PO4 - 0
NO3 - 0.2
SG: 1.024


I have amazing reds in a war coral that hitchhiked in on some LR, but I bought a DFS Red Dragon SPS and it went from Brilliant Magenta red when it arrived from Live Aquaria to a REALLY washed out pinkish brown. ORA Pink Birdsnest is a reddish brown. (tho oddly enough, when I turn off the lights on the tank and ambient room light enters the tank, sure enough, she's pink)

I think it's the nitrates being so low ( first world problems?). I even stopped dosing vodka to see ( which I started before I had a problem with NO3, as to ward off problems ).

I've read a lot on RC here that people experience better colors with NO3 in the 2-5 range. Thoughts, all?

This is a perfect example.

Assuming these are numbers given from accurate tests kits, the balance is way out of whack. At 450 ppm calcium dKh should be at 10-11.... not 7. That is a huge difference, and your corals will show it. While high magnesium levels might prove mundane in regards to acro coloration, 1440 is too high. 1300-1350 would be more in balance.

My point here is you shouldn't be considering potassium/iodine/iron etc... if your big 3 aren't in balance. When one of the 3 is low (or less common, high) I always see changes in various pigments with different SPS pieces, especially montiporas.

Let me add that I'm aware that the quoted post above references nutrients as the potential cause, not trace elements. I do think nutrients (or should I say lack thereof) will cause lack of color, but I just think alk/cal/mag balance should be considered before considering nutrients or trace elements.

 

[Zacktosterone]

IMO people seem to focus way too hard on lighting and trace elements (even nutrients) in these color deficient circumstances, when they don't even have their major 3 variables in balance



This is a perfect example.

Assuming these are numbers given from accurate tests kits, the balance is way out of whack. At 450 ppm calcium dKh should be at 10-11.... not 7. That is a huge difference, and your corals will show it. While high magnesium levels might prove mundane in regards to acro coloration, 1440 is too high. 1300-1350 would be more in balance.

My point here is you shouldn't be considering potassium/iodine/iron etc... if your big 3 aren't in balance. When one of the 3 is low (or less common, high) I always see changes in various pigments with different SPS pieces, especially montiporas.

My salt mix throws me off I think. Today I measured and I was at
8 alk
410 cal
1425 mag

I use reef crystals. Should I be using IO instead?

 

[trueblackpercula]

IMO people seem to focus way too hard on lighting and trace elements (even nutrients) in these color deficient circumstances, when they don't even have their major 3 variables in balance



This is a perfect example.

Assuming these are numbers given from accurate tests kits, the balance is way out of whack. At 450 ppm calcium dKh should be at 10-11.... not 7. That is a huge difference, and your corals will show it. While high magnesium levels might prove mundane in regards to acro coloration, 1440 is too high. 1300-1350 would be more in balance.

My point here is you shouldn't be considering potassium/iodine/iron etc... if your big 3 aren't in balance. When one of the 3 is low (or less common, high) I always see changes in various pigments with different SPS pieces, especially montiporas.

I can't agree more with you but how on earth did you get that formula? I would really like to learn how you did that as I feel the top three are probally the most important. How are my levels ?

 

[ajcanale]

My salt mix throws me off I think. Today I measured and I was at
8 alk
410 cal
1425 mag

I use reef crystals. Should I be using IO instead?

8 dKh : 410ppm calcium is a solid ratio... 1425 magnesium is a little high but shouldn't be detrimental IMO.

 

[Zacktosterone]

8 dKh : 410ppm calcium is a solid ratio... 1425 magnesium is a little high but shouldn't be detrimental IMO.

My reef crystals are fine I guess? I'm doing 25% water chamges every 2 weeks. Should I just do 10-15% every week instead,? I'm not dosing right now

 

[trueblackpercula]

My reef crystals are fine I guess? I'm doing 25% water chamges every 2 weeks. Should I just do 10-15% every week instead,? I'm not dosing right now

In my opinion too many water changes are not good because the tank needs stability.

 

[ajcanale]

I can't agree more with you but how on earth did you get that formula? I would really like to learn how you did that as I feel the top three are probally the most important. How are my levels ?

Well... lets set up priorities as a flow chart in regards of importance and most inclined to change in an SPS aquarium environment.

ALK > Calcium > Magnesium > Nutrients (insufficient > excessive) > Lighting > Trace Elements.

There is no science to it, but based off what I've seen on forums and my own experience this seems to be the... heirarchy... so to speak.

Criticism welcomed and highly appreciated.

In regards to alk/calcium balance forumla.... Google "calcium and alkalinity by Randy Holmes-Farley." The first link will take you to an excelent article written by RHF. Towards the bottom there is a chart with given cal/alk ratios, Alk is listed in mel/q so you might need to convert to dK/h.

 

[ajcanale]

Zack I'm confused to what this is:

LEDs 80% (10/225 red, 225/225 royal blue, 225/225 blue, 85/225 white)

Also for FWIW LED's seem to turn pinks into purples, or at least a darker shade of pink. No idea why.

 

[Zacktosterone]

Zack I'm confused to what this is:


Also for FWIW LED's seem to turn pinks into purples, or at least a darker shade of pink. No idea why.

Its led color intensity on a ati led power module

 

[trueblackpercula]

Well... lets set up priorities as a flow chart in regards of importance and most inclined to change in an SPS aquarium environment.

ALK > Calcium > Magnesium > Nutrients (insufficient > excessive) > Lighting > Trace Elements.

There is no science to it, but based off what I've seen on forums and my own experience this seems to be the... heirarchy... so to speak.

Criticism welcomed and highly appreciated.

In regards to alk/calcium balance forumla.... Google "calcium and alkalinity by Randy Holmes-Farley." The first link will take you to an excelent article written by RHF. Towards the bottom there is a chart with given cal/alk ratios, Alk is listed in mel/q so you might need to convert to dK/h.

Thanks so much for making me understand and after trying to locate conversion calculators etc, I opened up my APP i use called Aquarimate and BAMMMMM they already have this calculator built in. I want to be at 8 dkh so my calcium needs to be at about 417.977 lol

Thanks again for the leason
Michael

 

[Zacktosterone]

soooo I may have found the culprit

soooo I may have found the culprit

I have a cyano outbreak!!! Which might mean high phosphates and nitrates. I did a phosphate test by salifert 3 times and of course it reads 0. I just got my reactors in so I'm going to start running some gfo. Also to perhaps strengthen the argument that its excess nutrients. My yellows have begun to turn green

 

[msderganc]

I have a cyano outbreak!!! Which might mean high phosphates and nitrates. I did a phosphate test by salifert 3 times and of course it reads 0. I just got my reactors in so I'm going to start running some gfo. Also to perhaps strengthen the argument that its excess nutrients. My yellows have begun to turn green

If your tank is less than a year, it's probably just stabilizing. Where is your cyano growing?

Phosphate will generally read zero with cyano because it's using the excess.

 

[Zacktosterone]

If your tank is less than a year, it's probably just stabilizing. Where is your cyano growing?

Phosphate will generally read zero with cyano because it's using the excess.

On the sand and on the rocks. I did a 4 day black out and its still there. Probably from ambient sunlight. I just got my reactors and gfo in. I'm just waiting on my ball valve so I can start them.

 

[trueblackpercula]

whats you nutrient export like?

 

[Zacktosterone]

whats you nutrient export like?

Once every two weeks
I turkey baste the sandbed and rocks
Change the filter socks (once every 4 days)
Change the carbon
Change the water by 25%

 

[sahin]

Zack: I would do the following:

1. Follow the recommendations in terms of light provided by Ed (Big E). Once done, leave it alone. Dont make any more changes.

2. Sometimes SPS systems take a long time to stabilise...the presence of Cyanno in absence of organic Carbon dosing (like Vodka) suggests instability with the system...Your PO4 test kit is useless...see below...but even with the presence of some PO4, you shouldnt really get Cyanno in an estalished systtem...IMO systems generally over 1 year can be said to be stable and established for SPS corals.

3. I use Salifert test kits for Alk, Mg, and Potassium...BUT salifert is USELESS for Phosphate...I get a 0ppm reading on that kit when Hanna and Elos High Resolution kits read around 0.05ppm from the same water sample! Saliferts Pottassium test kit is IMO the best out there.

4. Your Pottassium level is fine...if it is really at 360ppm then its not bad at all; K only needs to be dosed on Zeovit systems.

5. Dont go too aggressive on the GFO...go easy and siphone out whatever Cyanno you can.

6. No need to add trace elements and or other potions. Keep to the basics, and keep the alk, ca and mg consistent and hopefully colours will follow.

7. Feed your fish well. Obviously dont grossly overfeed, but feed them well.

8. If you can borrow a PAR meter, I'd use it to MAP out the PAR levels in a diagram so you have it for future use, and use that info for placing corals appropriately.

 

[Zacktosterone]

Zack: I would do the following:

1. Follow the recommendations in terms of light provided by Ed (Big E). Once done, leave it alone. Dont make any more changes.

2. Sometimes SPS systems take a long time to stabilise...the presence of Cyanno in absence of organic Carbon dosing (like Vodka) suggests instability with the system...Your PO4 test kit is useless...see below...but even with the presence of some PO4, you shouldnt really get Cyanno in an estalished systtem...IMO systems generally over 1 year can be said to be stable and established for SPS corals.

3. I use Salifert test kits for Alk, Mg, and Potassium...BUT salifert is USELESS for Phosphate...I get a 0ppm reading on that kit when Hanna and Elos High Resolution kits read around 0.05ppm from the same water sample! Saliferts Pottassium test kit is IMO the best out there.

4. Your Pottassium level is fine...if it is really at 360ppm then its not bad at all; K only needs to be dosed on Zeovit systems.

5. Dont go too aggressive on the GFO...go easy and siphone out whatever Cyanno you can.

6. No need to add trace elements and or other potions. Keep to the basics, and keep the alk, ca and mg consistent and hopefully colours will follow.

7. Feed your fish well. Obviously dont grossly overfeed, but feed them well.

8. If you can borrow a PAR meter, I'd use it to MAP out the PAR levels in a diagram so you have it for future use, and use that info for placing corals appropriately.

Did I say I had a potassium level? I must have meant something else. I've never dosed or tested potassium. All of my cyano is gone. I had some yesterday but it disapeered with the same light scedual big e said to do. There was some cyano after the 4 day blackout but with the lights on it just went away. Are you really sure they're useless and you just didn't have a bad test kit?

Some of my greens are losing greens but my blues are getting bluer too? That's weird my orange setosa is super orange. And my Monti is beaming with color.

This is all very confusing to me

 

[sahin]

Did I say I had a potassium level? I must have meant something else. I've never dosed or tested potassium.

Sorry, in relation to Potassium you just mentioned it in post below...I picked up 360ppm in error. But anyway, you dont need to dose it if you arent running Zeovit.

What would be a good potassium product? I've never dosed that before but I've been thinking its potassium. I don't have a test

All of my cyano is gone. I had some yesterday but it disapeered with the same light scedual big e said to do. There was some cyano after the 4 day blackout but with the lights on it just went away. Are you really sure they're useless and you just didn't have a bad test kit?

Some of my greens are losing greens but my blues are getting bluer too? That's weird my orange setosa is super orange. And my Monti is beaming with color.

This is all very confusing to me

Good news regarding the Cyanno.

If your green are losing the deep colour, maybe its due to the GFO? Or have you not hooked it up yet?

The only other thing I would checked for is Redbugs and AEFW's. Lots of info in the SPS forum, good start is the sticky at top.

 

[Zacktosterone]

Good news regarding the Cyanno.

If your green are losing the deep colour, maybe its due to the GFO? Or have you not hooked it up yet?

The only other thing I would checked for is Redbugs and AEFW's. Lots of info in the SPS forum, good start is the sticky at top.

Not hooked up yet.
No Redbugs I'm sure
Lost its color... Turned brownish but the polyps are a bright green and its spreading like wildfire!