kissman
New member
Yes back then I had a TurboFlotor T1000
I just can't win with Nitrates
- Thread starter kissman
- Start date
Yes back then I had a TurboFlotor T1000
JPMagyar
New member
Ok. I see that you are getting information from tons of sources so as is typical on RC it's really tough to focus on one thing at a time. Now having said that here are MY thoughts that you can add to all the others on this thread.
1) High nitrates is not normal, and high nitrates that won't come down when you work to bring them down is even more NOT normal.
so . . .
Somethings not right . . .
What?
First guess was mentioned by another person earlier, but I'm not sure I saw an answer.
Have you tested your tests?
You need to start using multiple tests to be sure you really have a problem, and you need to be VERY careful that you are doing CLEAN tests. Buy some distilled water at the store and clean your test equipment well before testing. Then do multiple test with multiple kits over multiple days. While you are running these tests do very basic maintenance and add only the bare minimum needed. So that means feed as usual and dose Alk and Kalk as needed but NOTHING ELSE. After 4 weeks of twice weekly testing and dosing nothing but Alk and Kalk and NO water changes you should have a decent set of numbers to work with.
Then and only then can you begin to tackle the problem.
IF, and that's a big if, you come to find that your nitrates really are high and steady or rising then first off you have a biological balance issue. You are lacking the necessary bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle or you are somehow adding too many nutrients. The most common culprit I have seen is too many nutrients. So, IF, you get to that point then you need to start by taking out one possible item at a time:
1) your RO water
2) your Alk and Kalk source
3) your food choice
4) any other possible sources like buckets etc.
If removing those does nothing to the readings then you proceed to the next issue likely which is a lack of good bacteria. To get good bacteria you can use products like Zeovit or you can simply add some cured live rock. Then you need to wait 6 to 8 weeks for the system to catch up during which time you do simple weekly water changes, but do not baste, vacuum, stir, or touch anything. Just wait.
Then after all that if you still are having high nitrate issues you can start trying to dose NOPOX as outlined in the directions. Why NOPOX? Because it's proven and comes with very detailed instructions and dosing regimen prescriptions that we know work.
Then if you still do not have results I will agree that I am beaten and let someone else "have a go".
Bottom Line: You really need to do as little as possible for a month and just test so you can understand what's happening and whether or not your readings are accurate, and while your at it don't just test nitrate test Ca, Alk, salinity, nitrate, and phosphate. Get a baseline on these readings for one month and publish the test results every Sunday here on RC for one month, and THEN you can start to fix the problem if there still is one.
Anyways . . . just one guys thought
1) High nitrates is not normal, and high nitrates that won't come down when you work to bring them down is even more NOT normal.
so . . .
Somethings not right . . .
What?
First guess was mentioned by another person earlier, but I'm not sure I saw an answer.
Have you tested your tests?
You need to start using multiple tests to be sure you really have a problem, and you need to be VERY careful that you are doing CLEAN tests. Buy some distilled water at the store and clean your test equipment well before testing. Then do multiple test with multiple kits over multiple days. While you are running these tests do very basic maintenance and add only the bare minimum needed. So that means feed as usual and dose Alk and Kalk as needed but NOTHING ELSE. After 4 weeks of twice weekly testing and dosing nothing but Alk and Kalk and NO water changes you should have a decent set of numbers to work with.
Then and only then can you begin to tackle the problem.
IF, and that's a big if, you come to find that your nitrates really are high and steady or rising then first off you have a biological balance issue. You are lacking the necessary bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle or you are somehow adding too many nutrients. The most common culprit I have seen is too many nutrients. So, IF, you get to that point then you need to start by taking out one possible item at a time:
1) your RO water
2) your Alk and Kalk source
3) your food choice
4) any other possible sources like buckets etc.
If removing those does nothing to the readings then you proceed to the next issue likely which is a lack of good bacteria. To get good bacteria you can use products like Zeovit or you can simply add some cured live rock. Then you need to wait 6 to 8 weeks for the system to catch up during which time you do simple weekly water changes, but do not baste, vacuum, stir, or touch anything. Just wait.
Then after all that if you still are having high nitrate issues you can start trying to dose NOPOX as outlined in the directions. Why NOPOX? Because it's proven and comes with very detailed instructions and dosing regimen prescriptions that we know work.
Then if you still do not have results I will agree that I am beaten and let someone else "have a go".
Bottom Line: You really need to do as little as possible for a month and just test so you can understand what's happening and whether or not your readings are accurate, and while your at it don't just test nitrate test Ca, Alk, salinity, nitrate, and phosphate. Get a baseline on these readings for one month and publish the test results every Sunday here on RC for one month, and THEN you can start to fix the problem if there still is one.
Anyways . . . just one guys thought
Last edited:
kissman
New member
Ok. I see that you are getting information from tons of sources so as is typical on RC it's really tough to focus on one thing at a time. Now having said that here are MY thoughts that you can add to all the others on this thread.
1) High nitrates is not normal, and high nitrates that won't come down when you work to bring them down is even more NOT normal.
so . . .
Somethings not right . . .
What?
First guess was mentioned by another person earlier, but I'm not sure I saw an answer.
Have you tested your tests?
Thanks JP for the advice this is great and some thing's I haven't tried. I got new refills and I always compare the old with the new and the results looked the same I use Red Sea Coral Pro
You need to start using multiple tests to be sure you really have a problem, and you need to be VERY careful that you are doing CLEAN tests. Buy some distilled water at the store and clean your test equipment well before testing. Then do multiple test with multiple kits over multiple days. While you are running these tests do very basic maintenance and add only the bare minimum needed. So that means feed as usual and dose Alk and Kalk as needed but NOTHING ELSE. After 4 weeks of twice weekly testing and dosing nothing but Alk and Kalk and NO water changes you should have a decent set of numbers to work with.
As far as CLEAN tests I have not cleaned the vials in awhile I should do that. If that is what you are referring to? I let them soak in vinegar and scrub them and let them soak in my RO/DI water. Should I buy a different brand test kit or should I just buy another Red Sea Refill? I just started Vinegar dosing I should stop? WOW no water changes for a week and do twice a week testing of Nitrates, Phosphates, ALk, Salinity and Calcium.
Then and only then can you begin to tackle the problem.
IF, and that's a big if, you come to find that your nitrates really are high and steady or rising then first off you have a biological balance issue. You are lacking the necessary bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle or you are somehow adding too many nutrients. The most common culprit I have seen is too many nutrients. So, IF, you get to that point then you need to start by taking out one possible item at a time:
1) your RO water
2) your Alk and Kalk source
3) your food choice
4) any other possible sources like buckets etc.
If removing those does nothing to the readings then you proceed to the next issue likely which is a lack of good bacteria. To get good bacteria you can use products like Zeovit or you can simply add some cured live rock. Then you need to wait 6 to 8 weeks for the system to catch up during which time you do simple weekly water changes, but do not baste, vacuum, stir, or touch anything. Just wait.
I do have a bottle of Brightwells MicroBacter7. I was also looking into the MarinePure Blocks to add to sump.
Then after all that if you still are having high nitrate issues you can start trying to dose NOPOX as outlined in the directions. Why NOPOX? Because it's proven and comes with very detailed instructions and dosing regimen prescriptions that we know work.
Can NOPOX be dosed with a 1.1ml doser? The reason I ask is because I am usually gone Fri, Sat and most of Sun.
Then if you still do not have results I will agree that I am beaten and let someone else "have a go".
Bottom Line: You really need to do as little as possible for a month and just test so you can understand what's happening and whether or not your readings are accurate, and while your at it don't just test nitrate test Ca, Alk, salinity, nitrate, and phosphate. Get a baseline on these readings for one month and publish the test results every Sunday here on RC for one month, and THEN you can start to fix the problem if there still is one.
I am willing to post test results every Thursday and Sunday if you think it would help?
Anyways . . . just one guys thought
I appreciate your thought as I do everybody on ReefCentral. I have seen pics of your tank and its one of the prettiest Reef Tanks I have ever seen.
kissman
New member
Here are 3 of the corals that have the best PE! Also shows the flow in my tank. Sorry for the noise the camera was inside the tank and I forgot to turn it off LOVE MY OLYMPUS TOUGH!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Mh8MEtjvO8Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZF3lRzbG2II" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7gKI-H4r39U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Mh8MEtjvO8Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZF3lRzbG2II" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7gKI-H4r39U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
kissman
New member
I was reading a thread about the MarinePure leaching Aluminum into tank have you had any tests run?
CStrickland
New member
How much longer on the blackout? The suspense is killing meeee! Lol
Have you peeked?
Have you peeked?
kissman
New member
Tonight! Tomorrow I run Blues only. I have peeked every evening. I peel back one piece of cardboard mainly to see if my RBTA has moved to try and find light. I did turn the lights on long enough last night to do the video's above. Tonight I will do a big water change probably 35g. Then I think I will try JP's suggestions and see what happens. I am hoping the cyano is gone but I have seen reports of people saying they had to do it more than once. My hope is that with the cyano dying and releasing the nutrients back into water column and doing a big water change will atleast knock back the NO3 and Cyano.
kissman
New member
tank looks great no cyano but we will see how it looks tomorrow after the lights have been on. I have one side I am going to leave the construction paper on I might have light coming through there and is also where the Cyano was the heaviest. Now for some blasting detritus and changing about 35g.
kissman
New member
Test Results. I know the NO3 and PO4 are false readings because of the Macro in my display that I am trying to get rid of and its better but still growing. ATC Refractor was calibrated as was the Handheld PH meter. I think on Sunday I will also post of pic of what my Skimmer has collected
Aquarium Reef Tank parameters are:
Temperature: 78
Salinity: 35ppt ATC
Nitrate, NO3: 8ppm Red Sea Pro
pH: 8.2 Milwaukee Handheld
Alkalinity, KH: 164ppm Hanna Hand Held
Ca: 400 Red Sea Pro
Phosphate, PO4: 0.03ppm Hanna ULR
Magnesium, Mg: 1,300 Red Sea Pro
for date: April 9,
2015
Get aquaPlanner, http://*******.com/6rklsdy
Aquarium Reef Tank parameters are:
Temperature: 78
Salinity: 35ppt ATC
Nitrate, NO3: 8ppm Red Sea Pro
pH: 8.2 Milwaukee Handheld
Alkalinity, KH: 164ppm Hanna Hand Held
Ca: 400 Red Sea Pro
Phosphate, PO4: 0.03ppm Hanna ULR
Magnesium, Mg: 1,300 Red Sea Pro
for date: April 9,
2015
Get aquaPlanner, http://*******.com/6rklsdy
Last edited:
Stolireef
Active member
Bottom Line: You really need to do as little as possible for a month and just test so you can understand what's happening and whether or not your readings are accurate, and while your at it don't just test nitrate test Ca, Alk, salinity, nitrate, and phosphate. Get a baseline on these readings for one month and publish the test results every Sunday here on RC for one month, and THEN you can start to fix the problem if there still is one.
Anyways . . . just one guys thought
Us Rochester guys are smart. I said this a bunch of posts earlier. How's things?
kissman
New member
The Grape Caulerpa in display sucks and the Cyano as long as it doesn't come back. If i can catch the Sixline wrasse i am gonna get some peppermint shrimp to eat Aiptasia or a Filefish might get a Foxface long enough to Caulerpa then get rid of him
kissman
New member
I need some way to either reduce nitrates and phosphates to kill off the macro and cyano if it comes back, or I need something that will out compete the macro and it die off. I hate to buy a Foxface to eat the macro because a) I only have a 55g and b) no gaurantee he will eat it. I am thinking of buying more live rock and putting it in sump but would have to cycle it first. Thought about adding a bunch of Mangroves to sump maybe 30. The Nitrates were a lot lower than I though once I did a high range test but still I know its a false reading since the macro is growing. I have been pulling it out a little at a time.
phobos2deimos
New member
Maybe I'm crazy, but perhaps increasing your po4 will help your macros consume the no3? I'm not sure if the Redfield Ratio is the key, but it's worth considering. I don't think mangroves will be particularly effective compared to other faster macros (C. Brachypus and Brown Gracilaria are two very fast growers). I think a blenny combined with manual removal would be adequate to control the grape Caulerpa, assuming it's not toxic (which I don't know).
After dropping in a Marine Pure block one month ago, my nitrates have gone from 30 to 10 in that time. I feed 5 small/med fish 3 times per day, put in a nori clip daily and feed coral and rbta's once per week.
I did some research on the aluminum concern before hand but seeing all the amazing tanks that use the block made my decision an easy one.
good luck
I did some research on the aluminum concern before hand but seeing all the amazing tanks that use the block made my decision an easy one.
good luck
kissman
New member
I want to rid my tank of the macro and cyano. Seems like I have cut the cyano back. Time will tell if it comes back over the weekend now with lights back on. I have no problems keeping the nutrient levels where they are after the macro is gone. I really don't want my levels of NO3 and PO4 at zero like some people want. I only want it low enough to kill of the Grape Caulerpa. I also need to catch 2 bullies in my tank before adding any more fish. My Sixline Wrasse and Royal Gramma have got to come out. They have already killed one Perc Clown. I need to build a DIY fish trap this weekend and get them out. Then I can add a Aiptasia Eating Filefish and/or Peppermint Shrimp to kill Aiptasia. Foxface or Blenny (if they will eat GC, I will research and see) to kill off the GC. I did add Cheato to sump and within 3 weeks it has melted away.
I am researching this option. I have read through the thread about the Aluminum and seems to be conflitcing. I actually reached out to BRS yesterday and asked them if they have noticed any Aluminum leaching from the blocks and they said they are running them in several tanks and have had no ill effects of any corals or fish. This would be a perfect solution by placing an 8x8x4 block in my sump.
CStrickland
New member
I think the idea with mangroves and other slow growers is they are steadier. Unlike how your chaeto melted, and other kinds go sexual, it can weather a nutrient drought better. I guess that would be good because you don't have all the nutrients being rereleased. I got that from the reefcleaners website a while ago, before I decided not to bother with macro. They have a ton of good info about the things they sell if you haven't seen the articles on the site (you prolly have). So they recommend a mix of fast and slow to keep things stabler.
Also, it seems like when people use mangroves for export instead of looks they use ALOT of them. idk how much you need to make a dent in the levels, but I remember real estate is an issue for you
Also, it seems like when people use mangroves for export instead of looks they use ALOT of them. idk how much you need to make a dent in the levels, but I remember real estate is an issue for you
phobos2deimos
New member
That's a great point, didn't think of that.
csantanavaz
New member
Kissman I had such huge nitrate issues in my tank until I started running biopellets. Literally within 2 weeks they were down from 50 to 5 (more like 3) now. Couldnt recommend them more!
kissman
New member
I think the idea with mangroves and other slow growers is they are steadier. Unlike how your chaeto melted, and other kinds go sexual, it can weather a nutrient drought better. I guess that would be good because you don't have all the nutrients being rereleased. I got that from the reefcleaners website a while ago, before I decided not to bother with macro. They have a ton of good info about the things they sell if you haven't seen the articles on the site (you prolly have). So they recommend a mix of fast and slow to keep things stabler.
Also, it seems like when people use mangroves for export instead of looks they use ALOT of them. idk how much you need to make a dent in the levels, but I remember real estate is an issue for you
Reefcleaners.org is an awesome site I have ordered many times from John and yes they do have tons of info. That is actually where I would order Mangroves if I decide however I read an article by Julian Sprung and he said that in order to see a difference in nutrients you would need to start with one Mangrove per gallon. WOW :eek2: thats a lot of Mangroves, LOL! I am limited to space but I do have a 10x10 area in the sump that has one piece of live rock in it. So i was thinking of using a piece of lightining diffuser and putting a mangrove in each square and hang down into my sump but not sure I want 60 LOL.
