Ich always present, truth or not

I bought copper power and a hanna copper checker. now I just need to wait and get a fish trap when they are back in stock. hopefully soon so I can get this process going
 
If a fish is sick with visible ich, QT and treatment is needed immediately. Do it to fish without signs of infection just stress it out and let it more prone to infections. Many healthy fish are killed by the well intentioned owners in those unsuitable QT tanks.


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I bought copper power and a hanna copper checker. now I just need to wait and get a fish trap when they are back in stock. hopefully soon so I can get this process going

I made my own fish trap which worked extremely well. here is the thread with a picture of it: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2600618&highlight=fish+trap

put some food in it and be patient. It will take a couple of days for the fish to get used to it and go in to eat. once they go in, pull the string, the door closes and they are stuck. I turned the tank lights off right away as soon as I caught a fish so others do not see whats going on :lmao:

for copper power, here is the formula on how much to use that will make your life easier: I got this from another site. use this fro the amount of water volume of qt and not just the size of it.
1.48ml per gallon = 2.5ppm
1.33ml per gallon = 2.25ppm
1.18ml per gallon = 2.0ppm
1.04ml per gallon = 1.75ppm
.89ml per gallon = 1.5ppm
test daily to make sure you are not getting any absorption.
 
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so far four fish have visible ich on them and one KIA. my purple tang, royal grammar, firefish and a lawnmower blenny. lost a powder brown already.
Going to look up that trap now
 
photobucket sucks and deleted some of my pics. i can take some more and email themm to you if you PM me your email.
 
I emailed it to you. I also posted it in my photo library here. Can see them in my albums in my profile. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
so how do you know that the ich is 100% dead

A lot of posts in this thread, but I wanted to try to answer this question.

Lets say you have a qt that is now infected with ich. There might be some on fish, some in the water, and some encysted on the walls of the tank.

You add copper to the water which will kill ich in water, but not necessarily kill the ich stage living on fish (it's under the fishes' skin) or the ich stage encysted on the hard surfaces in the tank. Copper is used for 14 days.

Now, the ich in the water is dead. As soon as the feeding stage of ich falls off the fish, it will die. This will take less than 14 days (3-7 days according to Humblefish), so you are covered there.

Now you are just left to worry about the encysted stage, which can last (maybe) as long as 72 days. Any ich that becomes free-swimming to look for a fish in the 14 days will die in the copper-laced water. Any that stays encysted longer than 14 days is of no consequence, since you will move the fish to a different (sterile) tank after 14 days.

Hope that helps.
 
A lot of posts in this thread, but I wanted to try to answer this question.

Lets say you have a qt that is now infected with ich. There might be some on fish, some in the water, and some encysted on the walls of the tank.

You add copper to the water which will kill ich in water, but not necessarily kill the ich stage living on fish (it's under the fishes' skin) or the ich stage encysted on the hard surfaces in the tank. Copper is used for 14 days.

Now, the ich in the water is dead. As soon as the feeding stage of ich falls off the fish, it will die. This will take less than 14 days (3-7 days according to Humblefish), so you are covered there.

Now you are just left to worry about the encysted stage, which can last (maybe) as long as 72 days. Any ich that becomes free-swimming to look for a fish in the 14 days will die in the copper-laced water. Any that stays encysted longer than 14 days is of no consequence, since you will move the fish to a different (sterile) tank after 14 days.

Hope that helps.


thank you for clearing that all up
 
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