Anthony357
New member
ich sucks!
ICH: how to cure it, id it, understand it.
- Thread starter Sk8r
- Start date
Hi Guys, I have a 66 gallon RSM 250 for the last 6 months. I had an ich outbreak 2 months back.I did hyposalinity in the Dt but when it didnt work, I did fallow for 8 weeks.When I put the fish back,they got ich again when I introduced a new fish.This time,instead of going fallow, I used Kick Ich for 2 weeks with a UV sterilizer and good feeding and water chemistry.I even used a tiny amount of chloroquine in the fish food.The fish fully recovered especially the blue tang.Now I have it again after introducing a PB tang which was very agressive.I have removed the PB tang and returned it to the LFS. I tried the chloroquine but it doesnt seem to work. Should I try the Kick Ich to see if it works again as removing the fish would mean dismantling all the live rocks and corals?
tang named junkyard
Well-known member
I've been in the game for 30 years. I've tried it all. The only thing that has proven to work for me time and time again is ginger powder. I put some in the water and on the food.
tang named junkyard
Well-known member
Actually you are wrong. Ginger is used to treat intestinal stomach parasites in humans. You don't have to believe me but every time I've ever had ich I've used ginger with 100% success. Everything else outside copper is junk. Read this on ginger. http://www.naturalnews.com/037609_ginger_stomach_aches_nausea.html
'5. Ginger helps clear out intestinal worms, parasites. If you suffer from chronic digestive pain or irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), there is a chance the source of this discomfort is intestinal worms or parasites, which may also be stealing nutrients from the foods you eat. If this is the case, a great way to naturally rid yourself of these foreign invaders is to supplement with ginger.
'5. Ginger helps clear out intestinal worms, parasites. If you suffer from chronic digestive pain or irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), there is a chance the source of this discomfort is intestinal worms or parasites, which may also be stealing nutrients from the foods you eat. If this is the case, a great way to naturally rid yourself of these foreign invaders is to supplement with ginger.
Silly stuff. Not useful for ich. It and other homeopathic panaceas have been discussed ad nauseum on other several other threads.
The only thing that has proven to work for me time and time again is ginger powder.
If it actually erradicated ich; it would come back
Copper is one treatment .Tank transfer is very effective as well .To erradicate it from a tank requires a 72 day fishless period.
The only thing that has proven to work for me time and time again is ginger powder.
If it actually erradicated ich; it would come back
Copper is one treatment .Tank transfer is very effective as well .To erradicate it from a tank requires a 72 day fishless period.
Last edited:
tang named junkyard
Well-known member
maybe I'm just lucky.
evoque335i
New member
so i am in the procces of ich and new tank i been doing ginger powder and garlic soak food plus ginger sprinkle ginger in tank .its a myths doesn't hurt anything to try .i do see it does help but its not a cure on day 5 plus herbtanna will give this a go till my new tank is ready to transfer all invert and corals leave fallow for 8 weeks , then cuppramine or hypo the old tank let me see this myths work or not.in 10-15 day from now i well continues to soak food with garlic ginger powder and vitamins like selcon and vitachem sprinkles in tank with giner powder we will see how it goes. no matter what my new tank will go fallow for 2 months and cuppramine 1 by 1 before they enter the new tanks i did started a thread for advice ill update this myths see if it work after 10-15 if it even help or false
I read on here a lot of people still using copper as treatment.
As far as I know the much better treatment nowadays is Chloroquine Phosphate.
I myself have used this and it kills ich plus a lot of other things. Flukes I believe it does not kill so separate treatment with a prazi product is recommended (Tremazol is my choice).
Ginger/garlic has minimal if any effect and has been proven to be very bad for fishes livers.
As far as I know the much better treatment nowadays is Chloroquine Phosphate.
I myself have used this and it kills ich plus a lot of other things. Flukes I believe it does not kill so separate treatment with a prazi product is recommended (Tremazol is my choice).
Ginger/garlic has minimal if any effect and has been proven to be very bad for fishes livers.
Wally.B
Active member
I dug through this thread. Maybe not enough.
What is the success rate using Polyp Lab Medic? Company web site has reef owner stories of success, but that is ADs for company.
Waste of Money? Or works for some?
I have a Power Brown Tang that has Ich after being in QT then introducted to Live Rock, and Coral Loaded 90 Gal Tank (no SPS).
No other fish shows ich. (3x Blue Green Chromis, 1x HawkFish, 1x Algae Blenny).
Started about 2 weeks ago.
He is active, eating, swims happy all day, No scratching, but starting to breathe fast. Showing white ich Spots as shown below.
Since he is eating well, and loves pellets, I got some New Life Spectrum Ick Shield Pellets which he eats twice a day. Hoping he can fight it off on his own.
I can't catch him, and even if I do, I can't catch the Algae Blenny since he doen't eat food, he finds his food scraping Algae in Tank. Thus can't bait a Fish Trap.
So basically can't run Tank Fallow (with one fish left). Can't tear apart a 15 year old mature Coral Glued tank.
I have read all the methods, Copper, TTM, Hydrogen Peroxide, etc (But to use any, must catch him. Ain't easy)
What is the success rate using Polyp Lab Medic? Company web site has reef owner stories of success, but that is ADs for company.
Waste of Money? Or works for some?
I have a Power Brown Tang that has Ich after being in QT then introducted to Live Rock, and Coral Loaded 90 Gal Tank (no SPS).
No other fish shows ich. (3x Blue Green Chromis, 1x HawkFish, 1x Algae Blenny).
Started about 2 weeks ago.
He is active, eating, swims happy all day, No scratching, but starting to breathe fast. Showing white ich Spots as shown below.
Since he is eating well, and loves pellets, I got some New Life Spectrum Ick Shield Pellets which he eats twice a day. Hoping he can fight it off on his own.
I can't catch him, and even if I do, I can't catch the Algae Blenny since he doen't eat food, he finds his food scraping Algae in Tank. Thus can't bait a Fish Trap.
So basically can't run Tank Fallow (with one fish left). Can't tear apart a 15 year old mature Coral Glued tank.
I have read all the methods, Copper, TTM, Hydrogen Peroxide, etc (But to use any, must catch him. Ain't easy)
Wally.B
Active member
I've been digging all over the Internet about the Polyp Lab Medic product..
Mixed messages.
Sound like this stuff controls the Ich, but never eliminates it as I thought.
I see excuses like not using the product long enough, or not strong enough. Just excuses.
There is no solution other than methods like Tank Transfer, and then Fallow the tank.
I am surprised a Company like Polyp Labs who make super products like Reef Roids, and Booster would take a chance on ruining their reputation selling a "Snake Oil".
And if really worked, people like me would document the treatment, by taking photo's of fish, and show results along the way, after a long period afterwards to show ick didn't come back.
I see nothings to support the product working (real proof).
Mixed messages.
Sound like this stuff controls the Ich, but never eliminates it as I thought.
I see excuses like not using the product long enough, or not strong enough. Just excuses.
There is no solution other than methods like Tank Transfer, and then Fallow the tank.
I am surprised a Company like Polyp Labs who make super products like Reef Roids, and Booster would take a chance on ruining their reputation selling a "Snake Oil".
And if really worked, people like me would document the treatment, by taking photo's of fish, and show results along the way, after a long period afterwards to show ick didn't come back.
I see nothings to support the product working (real proof).
Wally.B
Active member
Summary of my ICH Research (my Interpretation):
0)-ICH is a big problem in the Fish Industry and if there was easy cure the inventor would be instant multi-Millionare (Nobody have become an Instant Millionaire Yet)
1a)- Most Fish have ICH because all suppliers have some fish with ICH
1b)- A fish can host ICH parasite, but not show signs (Could be in Gills)
2)- ICH is controlled (hide ICH) by Fish Stores by having some Copper in their Fish System (doesn't mean that some fish don't have ICH)
3)- Tank Transfer Method works. All fish have to be removed from tank, and Tank has to go through Fallow to rid of Tank of ICH before putting fish back.
4a)- Copper Treatments work (but can be deadly)
4b)- Hydrogen Peroxide helps fish relieve symptom of ich, thus helps fish fight off ich, but H.P. doesn't cure ICH.
5)- Scaled and Thick Skinned Fish resist ICH better than Thin Skin Fish
6a)- Products like Polyp Lab Medic don't claim to get rid of ICH it's just control like (2)
6b)- There are post, videos with people using Medic but they most end as dead ends with no confirmation of success (A year later)
7)- Some fish can fight off ICH but tank may still have it (it never show up)
8)- A stressed Fish or Fish with lowered Immune system can all of a sudden ICH
9)- Even if you QT fish and treat them, and you don't QT Corals, Coral can introduce ICH
10)-Adjacent tanks like mine (with mist in the air) can transfer ICH between each other
11a)-A eating fish, can resist ICH better and possibly fight off ICH
11b)-Pellets like Ich Guard can help the fish to fight ICH off, but no guarantee. It just helps.
0)-ICH is a big problem in the Fish Industry and if there was easy cure the inventor would be instant multi-Millionare (Nobody have become an Instant Millionaire Yet)
1a)- Most Fish have ICH because all suppliers have some fish with ICH
1b)- A fish can host ICH parasite, but not show signs (Could be in Gills)
2)- ICH is controlled (hide ICH) by Fish Stores by having some Copper in their Fish System (doesn't mean that some fish don't have ICH)
3)- Tank Transfer Method works. All fish have to be removed from tank, and Tank has to go through Fallow to rid of Tank of ICH before putting fish back.
4a)- Copper Treatments work (but can be deadly)
4b)- Hydrogen Peroxide helps fish relieve symptom of ich, thus helps fish fight off ich, but H.P. doesn't cure ICH.
5)- Scaled and Thick Skinned Fish resist ICH better than Thin Skin Fish
6a)- Products like Polyp Lab Medic don't claim to get rid of ICH it's just control like (2)
6b)- There are post, videos with people using Medic but they most end as dead ends with no confirmation of success (A year later)
7)- Some fish can fight off ICH but tank may still have it (it never show up)
8)- A stressed Fish or Fish with lowered Immune system can all of a sudden ICH
9)- Even if you QT fish and treat them, and you don't QT Corals, Coral can introduce ICH
10)-Adjacent tanks like mine (with mist in the air) can transfer ICH between each other
11a)-A eating fish, can resist ICH better and possibly fight off ICH
11b)-Pellets like Ich Guard can help the fish to fight ICH off, but no guarantee. It just helps.
BlackburnD
New member
Ok, so currently I don't have an aquarium. I have been planning to get back into this after being away for 10 years, but all my reading lately has me qustioning it.
ICH.... So you start up a new tank with sand and rock, it cycles, and then I have wait 72 Days until I can introduce ANYTHING (corals, fish, inverts) new into the tank. Each and every fish should be put into a QT tank and observed for 4 weeks. If ich appears at which point am I suppose to transfer to yet another QT for this transfer method to be effective? How many times am I transfering and changing fresh water while merely quessing what stage the ICH is in and if it is just going with the fish from tank to tank? Is the plan to to have a fish in QT ich symptom free for 72 days?
But wait there's more! I also have to QT each and every since coral I wish to put in my tank which means I need yet at least one more tank with good lighting for the purpose of coral QT. If I want to QT more than one they have to go in at same time, or start the timer over. How long is this waiting period? My guess would be 72 days.....
Who in the world has time, money, and space for this? I am counting at least 4 completely separate system tanks up and running for this. I assume each would need to be around 3 gallons each.
Am I crazy?
Please correct anything I stated incorrectly here.
ICH.... So you start up a new tank with sand and rock, it cycles, and then I have wait 72 Days until I can introduce ANYTHING (corals, fish, inverts) new into the tank. Each and every fish should be put into a QT tank and observed for 4 weeks. If ich appears at which point am I suppose to transfer to yet another QT for this transfer method to be effective? How many times am I transfering and changing fresh water while merely quessing what stage the ICH is in and if it is just going with the fish from tank to tank? Is the plan to to have a fish in QT ich symptom free for 72 days?
But wait there's more! I also have to QT each and every since coral I wish to put in my tank which means I need yet at least one more tank with good lighting for the purpose of coral QT. If I want to QT more than one they have to go in at same time, or start the timer over. How long is this waiting period? My guess would be 72 days.....
Who in the world has time, money, and space for this? I am counting at least 4 completely separate system tanks up and running for this. I assume each would need to be around 3 gallons each.
Am I crazy?
Please correct anything I stated incorrectly here.
titaniumauto
New member
anyone treat achilles tang with cupramine without the fish dying ?
titaniumauto
New member
my achilles is in hypo and it is not working .. im on day 8 and it just keeps worse
Just to inform, there is a new treatment for Cryptocaryon irritans being developed for aquaculture ... it seems able to eradicate the parasite in the fish at 100% without harm to the fish. Follow the link:
Antiparasitic effect of dietary Romet®30 (SDMX–OMP) against ciliate Cryptocaryon irritans infection in the red sea bream Pagrus majorand tiger puffer Takifugu rubripes
"Highlights
► Romet®30 is Sulfadimethoxine–Ormetoprim (SDMX–OMP) combination. ► In-feed Romet®30 had a therapeutic effect against C. irritans infection. ► The suitable dose of Romet®30 was 50 mg/kg BW/day. ► The suitable duration of administration was 14 consecutive days. ► This dosing condition of Romet®30 was practically useful for aquaculture."
Sulfadimethoxine-Ormetoprim (SDMX-OMP) is a broad-spectrum microbicide chemotherapeutic agent, widely used in the treatment of dogs and cats, now fish ... has the potential to alter the biological filter if used directly in DT. Its possible safe use can be conveyed in food at the doses recommended in this work.
There is no recognized experience, which I have found, of safe use in reef tanks. but I thought it might serve, at first, to treat quarantined fish and ensure they do not carry parasites into the aquarium.
This is the data sheet of the aquaculture specific formula in English: ROMET® 30
Best regards
Antiparasitic effect of dietary Romet®30 (SDMX–OMP) against ciliate Cryptocaryon irritans infection in the red sea bream Pagrus majorand tiger puffer Takifugu rubripes
"Highlights
► Romet®30 is Sulfadimethoxine–Ormetoprim (SDMX–OMP) combination. ► In-feed Romet®30 had a therapeutic effect against C. irritans infection. ► The suitable dose of Romet®30 was 50 mg/kg BW/day. ► The suitable duration of administration was 14 consecutive days. ► This dosing condition of Romet®30 was practically useful for aquaculture."
Sulfadimethoxine-Ormetoprim (SDMX-OMP) is a broad-spectrum microbicide chemotherapeutic agent, widely used in the treatment of dogs and cats, now fish ... has the potential to alter the biological filter if used directly in DT. Its possible safe use can be conveyed in food at the doses recommended in this work.
There is no recognized experience, which I have found, of safe use in reef tanks. but I thought it might serve, at first, to treat quarantined fish and ensure they do not carry parasites into the aquarium.
This is the data sheet of the aquaculture specific formula in English: ROMET® 30
Best regards
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