Ich in tank?

linelazerman

New member
How do I know if i have it in my tank? I bought a coral beauty a few weeks ago and he has white spots all over him that i started to notice after the first week. Now my fish are starting to die off. lost three whitin a week, now I come home from work this afternoon and one of my Blue damsels is acting weird and is just sitting there with his mouth open like he has lockjaw. Advice appreciated

Thanks
 
Best thing to do at this point is to remove all the fish. Put any remaining fish in a quarantine tank so that you can treat them. The ich life cycle needs a host to continue, so you need to leave your display tank without fish for at least a month. Once you have cured the fish in the QT tank, and no signs of Ich are present (after a month or more, NO LESS) then you can return them to the display. Same thing happened in my tank, i just wasnt able to keep fish for more than 3 weeks before they died. Then, i stopped having fish for almost 2 months, and BAM! Super healthy fish that have been in there for months now, eat like crazy, and show no signs of ich :D hope this helps.
 
weel the damsel has just bit the dust. Bummer! do I only need to worry about removing the fish. The snails,crabs and such will be fine in tank? whats best method to treat fish?
 
Ich kind of looks like a micro spider in a way. It has a body with a bunch of little arms comming off of it. Sometimes you will see it on your glass when the light first come on. I use a product called vita- chem. Just put it in there food and let the food soak it up. Usually what causes ich is stress on the fish. I think taking them out of the tank to put them in a QT tank is just going to put more stress on the fish. Vita chem is totally reef safe. I even put it in the food I feed my corals. IMO you should have a QT tank set up and put the fish in there when you first get the fish. You may want to invest in a UV sterelizer but, all that will do is kill the free floating ich that passes through it. I had one and ran it when the lights are out. Since that's when the ich is floating around. The best way to get rid of ich is understanding ich. Please go to the Fish Disease Treatment section on RC. I hope this helps.
 
We have some excellent articles written by scientists & long-term, well known enthusiasts. You should look around in our Library! Not just info on puffers in there.
 
Yeah man I am going through an ich outbreak in my a FOWLR that I have. Already lost a blue tang during copper treatment in a hospital tank. At this point, I cannot take it anymore. This thing hit right in the middle of finals and I am running out to petsuppliesplus to keep buying small QT tanks. One big PITA.

I bit the bullet and bought a uv sterilizer which I am going to install today. My plan is to keep water quality high, feed with lots of garlic, and hope the fish survive the first stage. Once the ich leaves the fish, the uv should theoretically zap them. There is a considerable amount of debate over how effective uv is at killing ich, but at this point, it is the only solution I am willing to explore.

The thing that sucks about the copper treatment is the constant maintenance on the hospital tanks - water change every day, constantly testing for copper. It's craziness. But that's what I get for not QTing in the first place. I must say, after having this happen to me I learned my lesson and will QT all new fish. It's kind of devastating to see everything you have worked for just fall apart.

One word of caution, some fish do not respond well to copper, some respond better than others to hyposalinity. Some fish respond very well to fresh water dips. That's what makes treatment so difficult; there is no panacea. Best of luck to you and me...lol
 
People consistently say to let the tank lay fallow for a month or so, reasoning that all the ich parasites will die in a tank without hosts. If this procedure is not performed properly, and you reintroduce fish that have been treated and are now ich free, the ich can at any time "come back" and reinfect the fish. The conclusion is that a tank is never cured of ich until you let it lay fallow for over a month.

To me, at least on its face, this argument is flawed. If it were valid, ich that has "fallen off" the host fish cannot come back to reinfect the host fish after ~ one month's time, as a matter of fact. Sure, during that one month it can, thereby perpetuating the cycle, but not after that. Ich cannot "come back" six months later. If it could do that, then letting the tank lay fallow would be useless. Whether the tank is fallow, or whether the tank has healthy inhabitants that are not infected by ich in the water column, the result must be the same: the ich must die within a month of having no host.

I think that there is something else going on here, namely that some ich can survive for much longer than one month without a host. This proposition is supported by the anecdotal evidence of people letting their tanks lay fallow for upwards of one month, reintroducing "cured fish," and having ich strike again. Certainly, some of the people that testify to having this experience probably did not follow the quarantine procedure correctly. However, I think it is unlikely that EVERY SINGLE person who claims to have had this experience did not follow the procedure correctly. I think it is far more likely that we don't completely understand ich.

I also think that this viewpoint is reflected in the alternative treatment strategies that people are increasingly employing, particularly boosting your fish's immune system through clean water, good food, and medication. A well fed fish kept in clean water and in a stable environment should be able to fend off ich by itself. As everyone knows, the fish becomes susceptible to ich only when its immune system is compromised. In fact, this method becomes even more effective if all the ich actually does die within a month, because in that case, if you keep your fish healthy for one month, the ich is going to be gone for good. However, as I suggested earlier, I think it is more likely that ich is not necessarily gone after one month.

Moreover, if ich can live for over one month without a host, and a compromised immune system is a necessary condition for ich "infection" then other treatment strategies seem counterintuitive. In many cases, removing a fish from the display tank, and putting them in a small quarantine tank with copper, or in a hyposaline environment, is going to stress them out even more. Consider also, that these quarantine tanks are usually set up "on the fly." They are probably almost always undersized, and they have not gone through the nitrogen cycle, so your dealing with ammonia problems. Moreover, you must strike a delicate balance between causing an ammonia spike and feeding; remember, a fish that is eating alot is a happy fish. However, it is very difficult to heavily feed a quarantine tank. The worst part about all of this is, then you return a supposedly "cured" fish to a "fallow" tank. However, what you are really doing is returning a fish whose immune system is not in tip top shape back into an environment that probably still has some ich left. Not too mention the fact that if you have a larger display tank, returning all the fish is probably going to cause an ammonia spike anyways. If that one month of fallowness killed all the ich, it certainly had a detrimental effect on the beneficial bacteria population in your tank, which had to go without a nutrient source for one month.

So, I submit, that for all but the most diligent hobbyists, maybe rehabilitating the fishs' immune system is a more effective and practical treatment then the hospital tank method.

Let the firestorm begin...lol.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8748963#post8748963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joroscoe
Yeah man I am going through an ich outbreak in my a FOWLR that I have. Already lost a blue tang during copper treatment in a hospital tank. At this point, I cannot take it anymore. This thing hit right in the middle of finals and I am running out to petsuppliesplus to keep buying small QT tanks. One big PITA.

I bit the bullet and bought a uv sterilizer which I am going to install today.

Uh, but the money you spent on the UV could have bought you a well equipped QT and all you would have to do is perform hypo which takes practically no effort and time out of your "busy" schedule. You are not making any sense here.
 
Well it makes perfect sense to me if you broaden your conception of cost. Like I said in the post, this happened to me during finals, so buying a tank, making water, attending the tank, etc. is a far more costly endeavor then hanging a uv sterilizer on your display.
 
I totally agree with joroscoe. I know I haven't been into to marine tanks for a long time but I have had aquariums for many years. I have tried just about everything there is and I'm living proof that just by boosting a fishes immune system works wonders.
I have used a UV stereilzer in the pass. IMO it's really not nessesary but, if are are going to run a UV. I suggest just run it when the lights are out. Ich does not like the light so it will find any hiding spot it can and wait. If you don't believe me look on your glass when the lights first come on. A UV just doesn't kill ich it kills everything that passes through it. So by running it just at night you are saving some pods and save the life of the bulb.
 
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