Ick!!!

[-TS-Vash]

Ok i have tried kickick kordon prevent ick primafix and some other kordon product i used each for 1 month and 2 time the recommended length of time i lost a Powder blue tang and a clown goby i have even removed some fish in the middle of treatments because they were so bad and treated them in a 10 gallon for a week in copper medicine.

First off i would like to know have any of you used kick ick or kordons products are they any good or did i just spent 150 bucks on magic beans?

Next tonight i took down the whole tank in a effort to save my yellow tang, sunrise dottyback, orchid dottyback, six line, pair of clowns and pulple fire fish im using the hyposalinity method.I removed all my fish and put them in a 10 gallon tank i have had set up for a while for my frags i sell to the pet store. I put the frags in the display tank im going to leave the fish in the tank for 30 days using the hyposalinity method and leave the display tank empty of fish in a attempt to rid my self of the ick i just got a 18 watt sterilizer aswell to run on the display tank. Do any of you think this will work or should i be doing something else?

BTW if any of you need to know the size of the tank or anything its the tank in my signature all the info is on there.

 

[White Tiger]

Your newest attempt will most likely work.

+

Are you sure you're dealing with ick. Some people mistake different diseases and or symptoms with ick.

 

[-TS-Vash]

Im sure.

 

[reg828]

seems like 10 gal is small for all those fish. just watch out for ammonia spike, you can control by not overfeeding. hypo will work but you must do it in about a month. always monitor salinity every other day. salinity must be 1.080 or 1.090 to work. also, everytime you change water add kent marine dkh buffer to maintain ph.

 

[Freed]

Oh my god no!!! Don't adjust your salinity to 1.080 or 1.090 Your water would be like salty syrup. It should be 1.009-1.010 SG or 10-12ppt salinity.

 

[Danables]

have you tried using fresh finely chopped garlic in there food? it works great and less stress on your fish than hypo. it has always gotten rid of my ick

 

[reg828]

sorry i mean 1.008 to 1.009. come one

 

[White Tiger]

I think that if you had tried to adjust your salinity to 1.090, it wouldn't have worked because the water would have met its maxium dissolving level.

 

[mikeguerrero]

TS-Vash,

Have you read my thread, on the correct exposure for parasites?

I am figthing a huge ich epidemic in my 72 gallon reef. Like you I spent 100 dollars on No-Ich.

Let me tell you something, these products work on first attempt, I don't recommend them after a second ich attack, as I believe they build an immune to the med.

I added Coralifes largest turbo twist, the 12x. You need to make sure you run a pump slow enough on you 18 watt UV to be effective on killing the free floating parasites.

Please check out my post as I detail everything that has happened to me, and you will benefit greatly. It's here under my name as author and under the heading I gave you.

If you cannot find it, I'll post it as a link, but I don't want to hijack your thread unless you give me permission to post.

I'd love to hear back from you as I have tons to share with you on ich... I've read tons....

Mike G

 

[Steven Pro]

Removing all the fish, placing them in quarantine, and using hyposalinity is the best method to cure the fish, but a 10 gallon tank is awfully small for all the fishes you listed.

 

[-TS-Vash]

Well update the orchid dottyback died last night he was bad though i know a 10 gallon is very small but i lost the orchid dotty back and im selling the sixline so all ill have in there is a yellow tang 2 clowns and a sunrise dotty back thats the best i can do atleast the tank has been up for a few months.

mikeguerrero yes i have seen your thread thats where i got the idea to stop using the meds and get a sterilizer i would love all the input i can get by all means hijack away.

My salinity is at 1.009 and i will check it everyday and i use kalkwasser to keep the ph up in my display so ill add some every night to the 10 gallon to.

Danables i tried garlic the whole time to i forgot to put that but after looking on the web i found out garlic will not help anyway so i quit feeding it to them a few days ago.

BTW i dont know if i told you all so but i have been fighting this since feb 2 so i have tried.

To any one thinking of using kickick or kordons meds DONT its a waste of time MONEY and you will lose fish from what i have read hyposalinity, copper or other forms of copper meds and sterilizers are all that will work.

 

[-TS-Vash]

Thanks everyone for posting is there any one else who wasted there time money and fish using kickick or kordons?

mikeguerrero give me your link again plz i lost it.

 

[chocolates mom]

Add "No Sick Fish" to the list of a waste of time and money. I lost 2 Coral Beautys, $60.00 and my remaining fish now have ick. I am currently setting up a QT

 

[-TS-Vash]

Sorry to hear about that try hyposalinity it looks like it works from what i have read that what im doing now.

Any one else have a bad product that is a waste of time money and a poor fishes life.

 

[-TS-Vash]

Lets keep the ball rolling on this maybe we can save some fish and someones money. I forgot i tried 2 containers of Metronidazole and 1 metro + to.

Bad products so far.

Kick ick
kordons products
metronidazole
metro+
No Sick Fish
primaxfix
garlic

what else you all got?

 

[Freed]

UV sterilizers are a waste in my opinion, they may get some of the free floating ich but most of the ich is in the substrate, on the rocks, on the fish, etc...

 

[-TS-Vash]

Well i removed all the fish to so that with the UV i hope will work im so tired of having to tear down my reef to get fish out. Im going to stop buying fish and when everything is gone hopefully not any time soon ill just have enverts.

 

[Freed]

If you QT everything first before adding to main display you wouldn't need to tear down if this were to happen again.

 

[mikeguerrero]

TS-Vash,

Here is the link:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=803642

I would also conclude that No-Ich is a med that has a 50/50 chance on efficacy.

When I ran it, I noticed it killed a lot my copepods, and wiped out the brown diatoms at the bottom of my tank.

The ingredient that is used in this product is also found in curing yeast infections in women; go figure it cleanses your tank.

I cannot back up a success story with my UV yet as I'm still in my trial run, but what I can tell you is that it is helping a tenfold.

Now, to all the non believers, I have a really bad ich epidemic in my tank so bad that three of my tangs became covered in ich. Reef safe meds held the epidemic at bay, it didn't cure it.

As soon as I was done dosing it came back three times as hard, it was at this time that I decided no more meds, I will fight this with UV and Ozone.

And that is exactly what I'm doing, March 20th marks the day I start my run for independance from the ich.

The ich is still ever so present on my fish, but not in the heavy numbers prior to the installment of the UV.

I check my tank everynight, and I post about the pos or neg actions that have been observed.

I too have a orchid dottyback that is more than 1 year old and is showing signs of ich stress, but he's still eating and not giving up.

I'm not feeding garlic as it's too expensive and I don't see the benefit for me.

They are all eating flakes and pellets so I'm not concerned about having to supplement their food.

I really think that you have done the right thing in removing your fish and run your UV system non stop.

The ich has no food left and the turnover rate in you tank is eventually going to introduce them to Mr UV.

TSVash, what UV do you have, what pump are you running and what is your turnover rates?

MG

 

[-TS-Vash]

Did you that a fish that has been infected with ick a few times will sometimes be immune to the parasites and will not get them on there boby while there tank mates that are not immune will get them.

And that some fish like tangs are more prone to infection.