If you've successfully kept a Kole Yellow-Eyed tang through QT...

My Kole Tang broke out with ich on day 21 of QT in a 20g, it is now going through 4 weeks of copper and 4 more of observation after that. As long as it is still eating, it is fine. It does prefer algae to be soaked in garlic though, picky. And it is with a foxface that came from the same tank at LFS.

Uhg! And day 21? Did you noticed rubbing, or spots - or both?

I think we both received our kole the same day (Tues Nov 15th) and mine didn't show ich till this past Saturday. Now starting hypo which I got the sg down to 1.015 yesterday morning and will be down to 1.009 the next 2-3 days. It will be 8 weeks of hypo then 4 weeks of observation so it will be 3 months before it will see the reef. I suggest taking it slow better safe than sorry.

Feed more nori and it should be fine in QT. Btw--it took mine a good week before coming out from hiding.

I'm sorry to hear about your turn of events, as well. Now I'm not so optimistic, haha. Yes, I guess I better wait a while.
 
I did not notice any rubbing or flashing. I was going to do 2 weeks of copper after 1 week of prazipro pro but didn't because the QT went through a mini cycle. After it stabilized I almost put them in my DT, but I didn't. Bam...4 days later ich. It was good reassurance on QT! Be patient, it will save you fish, time and money!
 
I did not notice any rubbing or flashing. I was going to do 2 weeks of copper after 1 week of prazipro pro but didn't because the QT went through a mini cycle. After it stabilized I almost put them in my DT, but I didn't. Bam...4 days later ich. It was good reassurance on QT! Be patient, it will save you fish, time and money!

Ok, it's hard! Every time lately when I test the QT, I get .25 ammonia. I usually do two 25% water changes every day, but today, just one. I added 20 drops of Prime (supposed to neutralize ammonia for 10g water) as a precaution.

Fish still eating well and looking good. Just cooped-up. I'm surprised, though, cause my temp swings all over, my ammonia comes and goes, and I don't think I've been doing well keeping my salinity stable. I guess if the fish can handle my QT, the DT will seem like paradise!

I hope your treatment is working out ok.
 
I recommend taking a water sample to test at a lfs just to see if the reading is the same.

That's a pretty good idea.

A new store opened recently pretty close by. They only have weekend hours at the moment, I think. Maybe I'll drop by Saturday. Unless I could get someone at Petco to do it for me, lol.
 
I agree; you could definitely take it in to have someone else test it. Just a few other things to consider...

You have an ammonia badge as well, correct? If it's working (which it probably is), it is supposed to be more sensitive than your average test kit. I trust my Seachem badge over my API ammonia kit because they can be notoriously finicky. I've even seen people claim that adding Prime gave them false .25 readings with the API kit.

Timing seems to be an important factor with API ammonia kits; you need to set a timer and read it right at the five minute mark. I used to leave it alone and come back 15 minutes or so later and always got a false positive. Then I read a few threads where it was mentioned that you have to time it precisely, and haven't had a problem with false positives since. I tested mine and it started to go from yellow to greenish less than 60 seconds after the five minute mark.

Also check the dates on them of course. Old kits (2 years or more, if I recall correctly) won't be as accurate. If you had a biowheel in the sump prior to starting the quarantine, I can't imagine that you would have had much (if any) of a problem with ammonia. Good luck. :)
 
Ostara, thank you for your insight. I had heard that about precise timing with the API kits, so I've been trying to nail 5 minutes right on the dot. I also waste some chemical, as I often drop the first drop to the side of the test tube in order to make sure all drops are as uniform as possible. I fully believe you are right about the API kits being finicky: once I got an alk reading of 10dKH, and on the subsequent re-test, the expected 8 or so. I couldn't figure what went wrong, other than drop size, perhaps.

I am glad to hear of your trust in the Seachem ammonia badges. This one has never once indicated dangerous ammonia.

Do you think dosing an antibiotic such as Maracyn 2 would greatly affect my biowheel bacteria?
 
One word of precaution: If you do see signs of ich and decide to treat with copper, you cannot use prime or amquel to bring ammonia levels down. The combination of copper and these products is highly toxic to fish.
 
It's been a couple of days since an update. How are things going?

I have an API kit for ammonia and the color appears to be yellowish green. I tested a fresh batch of SW and got the same color so I'm assuming that's the zero color. It doesn't really look like the zero color on the test card.

Cheers
 
It's been a couple of days since an update. How are things going?

I have an API kit for ammonia and the color appears to be yellowish green. I tested a fresh batch of SW and got the same color so I'm assuming that's the zero color. It doesn't really look like the zero color on the test card.

Cheers

I'm really happy with the way things are going! Fish seems healthy, alert, curious, is picking algae off the glass, and has good appetite. Garlic-soaked nori is the #1 for this guy, although he also eats mysis, NLS small meaty pellets, and IO Seaweed Blend (just got more in the mail).

I've stopped testing ammonia, and just watch the badge. I have been doing one 25% water change every day now, and have seen no stress with the fish.

I just want time to fly by so I can get him in the DT! I'm about to mix up a big tub of water, do water changes in the DT, and start using the old DT water in the QT tank.

Btw, thanks for asking! :)
 
I was pleased to see today that the blue around the tangs mouth and the orange in the fins is becoming more pronounced. Maybe it's the vitamins!

I wanted to ask if anyone thinks I ought to remove the cardboard piece from the end of the tank. Could that just cause trouble while things are going well? I'm afraid that it will just be added stress on top of the move to the DT (which, btw, is on the near horizon).
 
I was pleased to see today that the blue around the tangs mouth and the orange in the fins is becoming more pronounced. Maybe it's the vitamins!

I wanted to ask if anyone thinks I ought to remove the cardboard piece from the end of the tank. Could that just cause trouble while things are going well? I'm afraid that it will just be added stress on top of the move to the DT (which, btw, is on the near horizon).

If it's really close to time to move him I see no reason to make any more changes in his QT life! I'm glad this worked out, I'm sure he's gonna like his new home! :)
 
If it's really close to time to move him I see no reason to make any more changes in his QT life! I'm glad this worked out, I'm sure he's gonna like his new home! :)

I sure hope so - I just had a powerhead fry in a 40g tub of new saltwater for the DT...disappointing, because he sure seems to love new saltwater!
 
In the DT, exploring a bit. I hope he finds a hole before the dawn/dusk lights turn off.

Then, I hope he makes it through the night ok.
 
What else is in your display? I'm sure he'll be fine - for a fish that was so timid on introduction, mine is bossy bossy bossy.
 
What else is in your display? I'm sure he'll be fine - for a fish that was so timid on introduction, mine is bossy bossy bossy.

Just a big coral banded shrimp, and a few corals. The shrimp isn't happy, but no contact yet, that I'm aware of!

I can see this fish becoming bossy. :)
 
I thought I had posted some pictures of the fish in its new home - obviously I hadn't. Here are some from tonight:

Has some pretty good weight

Tang_Dec21-003.jpg


Wound has completely healed

Tang_Dec21-005.jpg


Loves to pick and scrape

Tang_Dec21-001.jpg


Tang_Dec21-002.jpg


Good color, I think

Tang_Dec21-004.jpg


The fish is eating like a pig - so much, in fact, that my CBS feels deprived and is highly agitated.

How do I know if I am feeding too much? I feed IO Seaweed Blend, Omega One Super Veggie Kelp Flakes, NLS Marine Fish Formula (omnivorous pellets), mysis shrimp (often soaked in Selcon), and nori. I don't feed all of this every day, but I do feed 3-5 times each day.
 
Back
Top