Installing bulkheads......

[rovster]

I know for many of you, this is second nature, but this will be the first time for me with a "real" tank. I will be installing my bulkheads today and gluing in the lat pieces of plumbing. Few questions:

1. How tight? Some say hand tight, some say hand tight +1/4 turn. If so, what kind of wrench?

2. Lube the gaskets or not? Some say using food safe silicone lube will prevent cracking and drying out of the gasket. Some say just install dry.

3. All my bulkheads are slip fit. Will be gluing the outside portion. Was not planning on gluing the inside. I don't think the drains will be a problem. However, the return is pressurized, does that need to be glued? It fits super tight and snug, and I can't imagine it going anywhere. An alternative would be to order or buy a slip-thread, but I think I should be ok as is.

Just looking for any suggestions caveats before I make this permanent. Thanks!

 

[billsreef]

I go with hand snug plus 1/4...by hand usually. No lube needed since nothing should be turning against the gasket, and being the gasket is normally on the wet side, it's not going to dry out For drain stand pipes, slip is fine on the inside without glue...after all any leaks there just go into the drain anyway. For the returns, sometimes you can get away with just friction fit, but sometimes they pop off...it's a risk you got to decide if you want to take.

 

[rps3]

I don't know anything BUT you should go with a slip x thread for the return. I'm assuming your using LocLine at the top for the return. In any case, threaded inside so you can hand tighten it into place and if it ever needs cleaning it can come off. That and you don't have to worry about the return pump shooting it out if you don't have it glued down.

 

[rovster]

I go with hand snug plus 1/4...by hand usually. No lube needed since nothing should be turning against the gasket, and being the gasket is normally on the wet side, it's not going to dry out For drain stand pipes, slip is fine on the inside without glue...after all any leaks there just go into the drain anyway. For the returns, sometimes you can get away with just friction fit, but sometimes they pop off...it's a risk you got to decide if you want to take.

Thanks. The friction fit is soo good it's hard for me to seperate when I really snug it down. The lube was for the gasket, not the threads. Thanks again.

 

[rovster]

I don't know anything BUT you should go with a slip x thread for the return. I'm assuming your using LocLine at the top for the return. In any case, threaded inside so you can hand tighten it into place and if it ever needs cleaning it can come off. That and you don't have to worry about the return pump shooting it out if you don't have it glued down.

Yes, using lock line. I'll post some pics later of the whole set-up.

 

[billsreef]

The gasket doesn't need lube Only reason you would lube a gasket is to prevent any tearing when a part is rotating against it

Keep in mind, even a good tight friction fit can loosen up over time

 

[MattM3]

I put a small amount of silicone on my the o-rings. I have had leaks before without siliconing and won't ever do again without. Hand tighten down then a quarter inch turn with a wrench.

 

[rovster]

Some pics.

From left to right, emergency drain, siphon drain with strainer, and return. Drains are 1", return is coupled down to 3/4".

For the return, I used a black coupling that sits into the bulkhead and seems to be a perfect friction fit. If I really push it in, its very hard to separate.

Components...


Assembled....


In place....


The emergency drain is about the height of the overflow. The siphon drain is about 5-6 inches lower than the emergency.

Here is a pic of the underside. I made the mistake of building my stand to fit the tank too closely on the back. I ran in to some issues with clearance for the bulkhead nut. I did not want to cut the stand, so I just removed the foam in that area, and it was enough to geve me enough clearance to put the bulkheads in place.

 

[billsreef]

Looking nice :thumbsup:

 

[AquamanE]

I agree with Bill and others that tight slip right now can become looser later. Remember that return is coming from a pump that i guarantee you has at least some minimal vibration. What do you have to loose, it requires a fitting costing less than 50 cents. Thats the best insurance policy price ive seen in a while.

Regarding the clearance for the bulkhead nuts, no worries, ive seen this happen to many experieanced folks, myself included.

BTW- 1/4 turn after handtight with wrench. Also "about the height of the overfow" for the emergency might not be enough. Remember in an "emergency" it needs to handle you return pumps volume". Id cut it down slightly.

Good work, keep it upi.

 

[ANFPO]

My answers to your questions are in bold for easier reading

I know for many of you, this is second nature, but this will be the first time for me with a "real" tank. I will be installing my bulkheads today and gluing in the lat pieces of plumbing. Few questions:

1. How tight? Some say hand tight, some say hand tight +1/4 turn. If so, what kind of wrench?
"hand tight" is a HORRIBLE term. It's too subjective, what a 200lb person can "hand tighten" a 90lb person may not. Having said that :crazy1: , hand tighten the nut part of the bulkhead while pushing the shoulder of the bulkhead against the gasket and aquarium wall. This will allow you to turn it at least another 1/4 turn. Then use "channel lock pliers" (not a wrench)to tighten a tiny bit further. Most important thing is: DONT CRACK THE GLASS!

2. Lube the gaskets or not? Some say using food safe silicone lube will prevent cracking and drying out of the gasket. Some say just install dry.
No lube. Most gaskets are rated to last 10+ years just like they come, without lube. I would think the lube being silicone and the gasket EPDM, would not play nice. Its not like an O-ring with a channel to sit in.

3. All my bulkheads are slip fit. Will be gluing the outside portion. Was not planning on gluing the inside. I don't think the drains will be a problem. However, the return is pressurized, does that need to be glued? It fits super tight and snug, and I can't imagine it going anywhere. An alternative would be to order or buy a slip-thread, but I think I should be ok as is.

All pressurized plumbing should be glued or threaded NOT just slipped in place. That fit you find "super tight and snug" now will slowly slip apart and come undone when you are away on your vacation :hmm5: On top of that, if you don't glue or thread it, you will have salt creep. Gluing a slip x thread adaptor to your slip bulkheads is fine,but depending on which side of the bulkhead you need to install it, you may not be able to remove the bulkhead without having to cut the entire bulkhead out cause the nut of the bulkhead will not go over the new adaptor.

Just looking for any suggestions caveats before I make this permanent. Thanks!

 

[ANFPO]

Some pics.

From left to right, emergency drain, siphon drain with strainer, and return. Drains are 1", return is coupled down to 3/4".

For the return, I used a black coupling that sits into the bulkhead and seems to be a perfect friction fit. If I really push it in, its very hard to separate.

Components...


QUOTE]

Where is your drain SILENCER? Without it you will have a toilet flush sound every couple of minutes :crazy1: Where are the teeth for your overflow? That strainer will clog faster. Its hard to monitor a strainer inside an overflow, away from plain sight.

 

[mlivvy]

mmm.. black pvc. where you get it?

 

[ANFPO]

Some pics.

In place....


The emergency drain is about the height of the overflow. The siphon drain is about 5-6 inches lower than the emergency.
QUOTE]

I agree with Eddie, the height of the emergency drain pipe should be lower than the walls of the overflow, just slightly, like an inch.
I would have used sch40 pipe, not shc80 for the drain. The thinner sch40 can drain water faster because of the larger inside diameter. No real biggie though and black looks better than white pvc.

 

[ANFPO]

BTW, Aquamedics makes overflow teeth combs you can silicone to your glass overflow walls. They are black and they are removable. Not a lot of people know about this product but it does exist.

 

[Maximus]

BTW, Aquamedics makes overflow teeth combs you can silicone to your glass overflow walls. They are black and they are removable. Not a lot of people know about this product but it does exist.

Do you have a link to this?

 

[rovster]

My answers to your questions are in bold for easier reading

Thanks for the feedback. All connections outside the tank will be glued, it's the ones inside the box that I was concerned about. I have decided to change the return bulkhead to a slp thread, to be able to thread the return pipe in place.

 

[rovster]

Some pics.

From left to right, emergency drain, siphon drain with strainer, and return. Drains are 1", return is coupled down to 3/4".

For the return, I used a black coupling that sits into the bulkhead and seems to be a perfect friction fit. If I really push it in, its very hard to separate.

Components...


QUOTE]

Where is your drain SILENCER? Without it you will have a toilet flush sound every couple of minutes :crazy1: Where are the teeth for your overflow? That strainer will clog faster. Its hard to monitor a strainer inside an overflow, away from plain sight.

This is going to be herbie. Planning on running a full siphon controlled with a gate valve. The overflow has a custom cover with teeth. The strainer was just an "extra" layer of protection. It will not be glued and can be removed if needed.

 

[rovster]

mmm.. black pvc. where you get it?

Savko. The overflow is smoked glass, so you can kind of see through it, thus the need for the black PVC.

 

[rovster]

Here is a pic of the overflow cover.....




This is from an earlier dry run. I plan on switching the emergency and siphon, but you guys should get the idea.....




Once the bulkheads are glued in place, they will have to be cut out so I want to get it right. Reason for this is I did not have room/clearance in the stand to fit a union before the 45's